In My Footsteps: Trip 127: Amesbury, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 127:  Amesbury, Massachusetts

November 9, 2011

            Though it is a part of the North Shore the town of Amesbury gives a different view than one is used to.  For one it is not situated along the coast so there are no ocean beaches to speak of.  However for me the hills, winding roads, lakes, and on this trip the foliage, more than make up for the fact that there is no rocky shore to gaze upon.

Lake Gardner

            I began my time in Amesbury with a beach of sorts.  The beach is located at Lake Gardner.  The very first thing I noticed upon arrival was the constant rush of water coming from a dam on the Powow River.  It is just to the left of the beach and is what created the lake back in 1872.

            The lake in general was very calm making a nearly perfect mirror image of the houses across the water.  The beach is relatively small but there is an added bonus.  A short walk will lead you to the Stagecoach Trail Boardwalk.  This trail is part of the hundred acre Powow River Conservation Area along the eastern side of the lake.  Lake Gardner, the dam, and the trails are just the beginning of the sites to see in Amesbury.

Mill #1 on the Powow Riverwalk

            The Powow River flows down from Lake Gardner and there is a beautiful riverwalk area located just off of Friend Street.  The spot where I stopped is near the town hall.  In that area there is another dam where the water rushes by; the ducks and geese were hanging out and being fed by a mother and her young daughter.  From where the walk crosses over the river there is a great view of an old stone arched bridge on Pond Street.  It was built sometime before 1884 to increase accessibility to the Millyard.  On the right side of the river is Mill #1 built in 1855.

            After the walk along the Powow River there was a pair of historic buildings on my itinerary.  First off was the Rocky Hill Meeting House on Old Portsmouth Road.  It is just what the name says, an old meeting house.  Built in 1785 this white building is virtually the same as it was when it originally opened.  It was constructed to serve the west parish of Salisbury.  The major claim to fame of Rocky Hill is the fact that George Washington stopped and greeted people here on his journey north in 1789.  The pews inside are unchanged and actually have graffiti dating back over two hundred years scrawled on them.

Macy-Colby House

            Next I checked out the oldest house in Amesbury, the Macy-Colby House.  According to the plaque outside the house it was erected before 1654 by the first Town Clerk, Thomas Macy.  After seeing many 17^th century homes during my trips around New England I am now finding that I can recognize the architecture of these dwellings.  Macy was ostracized from the town a few years later for harboring Quakers which was a criminal offense.  He fled to Nantucket and became the first white settler on the island.  This was depicted in John Greenleaf Whittier’s 1826 poem The Exile’s Departure.

            In my travels I enjoy finding the hard to find.  This was the case with my last destination, the Old Powder House.  This is a little deceiving as it is not a house at all.  The ‘powder house’ is actually a bullet-shaped white structure.  It was built in 1810 and used to store arms and ammunition during the War of 1812.  The reason it was hard to find was partially my own fault as I missed the sign for it along Madison Street.  I knew it was located in the woods and took to wandering around said woods for a bit before giving up.  It was on my way back that I spotted the sign next to a set of stairs leading up a hill.

The Old Powder House

            Although it is covered with trees there were still a few breaks in between where I could see the surrounding area from atop the hill.  During the warmer months when the trees are in bloom it is probably impossible to see anything.  The Powder House has been preserved thanks to the Amesbury Improvement Association.

            Although not the typical North Shore town due to its proximity away from the shore Amesbury still retains that special feel that all the places in this area have.  The view at Lake Gardner is incredible.  There are some amazing historical buildings and homes that remind you of how life used to be hundreds of years ago.  The Old Powder House is a cool find if you don’t mind a little search and walk.  It may not have the rocky shores but Amesbury is a town that every traveler should pay a visit to.  Have fun and happy traveling! 

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!

Directions:  Lake Gardner:  From I-95 N take Exit 58B for Rt. 110W.  Follow it .5 miles, turn right onto Elm Street, follow 1.7 miles, take 2^nd exit at rotary for High Street.  Follow it .3 miles, turn right for the lake parking lot.

            Old Powder House:  From I-95 N take Exit 58B for Rt. 110W.  Follow it .5 miles, turn right onto Elm Street, follow it .6 miles.  Turn right onto Amidon Avenue, continue across Monroe St. to Madison St.  The sign for the Powder House will be on the right next to some stairs.

References:  Lake Gardner Improvement Association

            Amesbury City.com

            Lowell's Boat Shop.com

In My Footsteps: Trip 126: Kittery, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 126:  Kittery, Maine

October 5, 2011

Fort McClary

            Although it is probably known more for its outlet shops Kittery has a strong historical significance as well.  The oldest town in Maine was originally settled in the 1620’s and became a town in 1647.  Ironically when most towns in the Colonies were being named for towns in England Kittery was actually named for a house.  It was named for the Manor of Kittery Court in Devon, England.  That home still stands to this day.  Of course I am not one to tell visitors to pass up the Kittery Outlets.  Still, after paying a visit to the acres of shops spread on both sides of Rt. 1 there are many other interesting things to see.

The view from inside the Block House.

            I started off my time in Kittery with an amazing old fort.  Fort McClary sits on the northern shore of Portsmouth Harbor.  There is a panoramic view of Portsmouth Lighthouse, Fort Constitution, and Whaleback Lighthouse along with many boats in the harbor during the warmer seasons.  The first fortifications on the site dated back to the late 17^th century and were erected by wealthy landowner Sir William Pepperell.  The fort itself was built in 1808.  It fell into severe disrepair in the early 20^th century.  The state of Maine purchased the fort and the land in 1924.  The badly damaged buildings were torn down.  The surviving buildings including the Block House were repaired in the 1980’s.

            Unlike many of the forts I have visited I was actually able to go inside one of the main buildings.  The Block House, a white hexagonal building built in between 1844-46, was wide open.  It now serves as a museum.  The view from up inside the Block House is incredible.  The vantage point must be more than fifty feet above the water level if I had to guess.  I took my time and enjoyed the views before leaving one fort behind, there was another one that I needed to visit later. 

Rice Public Library

            In between forts I took in some of the other sites that Kittery had to offer.  Although I don’t frequent them I am fascinated by how many public libraries are housed in amazing looking buildings.  That is the case with the Rice Library on Wentworth Street.  The library building looks much like ones I have seen in Easton and Fairhaven, Massachusetts.  The Rice Library has some of the same styles as many other Henry Hobson Richardson buildings despite not being created by the famed 19^th century architect.

            I was particularly excited about my visit to Fort Foster.  Located on Gerrish Island in Kittery this historic site has more than just a fort.  During my trip to Portsmouth, New Hampshire’s Fort Constitution I had noticed another lighthouse located across the harbor.  That was Whaleback Lighthouse and I knew I needed to pay it a visit during a future trip. 

Whaleback Lighthouse on the left at Fort Foster.

            On this day the gates to Fort Foster were closed so I had to park outside and walk in.  Also it had been a beautifully sunny day but dark clouds had rolled in and it began to rain heavily.  I had been planning my Kittery trip for months so a little rain, or a lot of rain, was not going to stop me.  Plus the skies were still mostly blue which made me believe that a rainbow would be possible once the rains stopped.

            People were fleeing the rain while I walked out.  The fort was built in the 1870’s making it the last ‘old’ fort built in the area.  As the rain was still falling I made my way out onto a very long pier.  It was here that I got the closest view of Whaleback Lighthouse.  The fifty-foot tall structure was built in 1872.  The Whaleback name refers to a jagged stretch of rocks, a continuation of Gerrish Island completely underwater at high tide.  Though it is often considered a New Hampshire lighthouse it is located about 1,500 feet into Maine’s waters.

The rainbow which came out while at Fort Foster.

            There is also a unique house situated on some rocks near the lighthouse as well but I was unable to find any information about its significance.  It was while I was standing out on the pier that the rain let up and the sun came back out.  Sure enough a rainbow began to form.  I was able to see the entirety of the rainbow from where I stood.  For a short time there was even a second rainbow which formed.  It made my walk out there in the rain worth it.

            I had an awesome time in Kittery.  The pair of old forts were just what I was interested in seeing.  I highly recommend checking them out even if you decide to spend most of your time shopping at the Kittery Outlets.  The oldest town in Maine has so much to offer and I am so glad I got to see it.  Have fun and happy traveling!

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!

Directions:  Fort McClary:  Take I-95 N through New Hampshire into Maine.  Take Exit 2 to merge onto Rt. 236 S.  At the rotary take the 3^rd exit to stay on Rt. 236.  Follow it 1.1 miles, continue onto Whipple Rd., continue onto Pepperrell Rd.  Follow it .5 miles, the fort is on the right.

            Fort Foster:  Take I-95 N through New Hampshire into Maine.  Take Exit 2 to merge onto Rt. 236 S.  At the rotary take the 3^rd exit to stay on Rt. 236.  Follow it 1.1 miles, continue onto Whipple Rd., continue onto Pepperrell Rd.  Follow it 1.5 miles, continue onto Tenney Hill Road.  Continue onto Brave Boat Harbor Rd., follow it .2 miles, turn right onto Gerrish Island Rd.  Turn right onto Pocahontas Rd., follow it 1.1 miles, keep right at the fork in the road.  The fort and lighthouse are straight ahead.

References:  The Kittery Outlets.com

            Fort McClary.org

            North American Forts - Fort Foster

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In My Footsteps: Trip 125: York, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 125:  York, Maine

October 5, 2011

            A trip months in the making the town of York did not disappoint me.  Located only a few minutes across the Maine border this town has the feel of ‘classic Maine’ as I have come to know it while also being close enough to make a day trip out of it.

The front of The Stolen Menu Cafe

            Before visiting even one of the spots on my itinerary I needed to stop for some sweets at a very well known establishment.  The Stolen Menu Café has been featured on such shows as The Phantom Gourmet.  Once you step inside it is easy to see why.  I was face to face with a showcase filled with delicious muffins, cookies, cakes, pastries and more.  I began picking and choosing before realizing that I needed to restrain myself from spending my entire daily budget there.  I highly recommend a visit here during any trip to York, be prepared however to fall in love with basically everything they make.

            After collecting my bounty from The Stolen Menu Café I headed to my first destination.  Cape Neddick Lighthouse located on Nubble Rock has been a dream destination of mine since I began travel writing.  Once you arrive at Sohier Park the lighthouse is in plain sight.  It is much closer to the mainland than it appears in photos.  On this day the tide was low and there may have been thirty to forty feet of water between the coast and Nubble Rock.  It is very tempting to cross but signs remind you that no unauthorized people are allowed on the rock.

Cape Neddick Lighthouse

            This is a very popular destination and one of the most photographed and painted lighthouses in the country.  It looks like a spot that should be painted, and also is a perfect snow globe souvenir thanks to its location on Nubble Rock.  I had the chance to sit and have lunch at Sohier Park and enjoyed every second of my time at Cape Neddick Lighthouse, but there is much more to see in York.

            Located on either side of Cape Neddick are beaches.  To the south is Long Sands Beach, to the north is Short Sands Beach.  The names come obviously from the size of each beach.  I ventured north to Short Sands Beach.  The drive around Cape Neddick was magnificent.  I had to slow down every time I passed a clearing so I could gaze out over the ‘classic Maine’ coast. 

The view from Short Sands Beach

            The parking lot was virtually deserted even on a beautiful sunny day.  The tide was low and I was able to walk a good distance out.  There was a charter boat out just past the breakers heading in toward Cape Neddick Lighthouse; it was the only visible vessel on the water.  This beach was amazing as it is sort of funneled in toward the shore by the rocky coastlines of the village of York Beach.  There are shops next to the beach and also an arcade and a bowling alley which give Short Sands Beach a definite summer destination feel to it. 

            For the history lovers I visited Jefferd’s Tavern, part of the Museums of Old York.  It was built originally in Wells, Maine in 1754 and moved to York in 1939 and restored in 1941 before being moved to its current location in 1959.  It currently serves as a visitor and education center.  The outside of the building has changed little since its construction.  The inside still has the look of a Colonial-era tavern and harkens back to America’s early history.

            Across the street from the tavern is The Old Burying Yard which contains the graves of some of the first settlers of York.  The oldest graves date back to before 1650.  There is also a marker telling the story of one of the worst massacres of the Colonial days.  On a January morning in 1692 Native Americans of the Abenaki Tribe attacked the village of York killing forty and marching nearly 300 off to Canada; many died along the way.  The remains of the victims are located not far from the spot of the marker.  It is a sobering reminder of how wild America was for the first few generations of settlers that lived here.

York's Old Gaol(Jail)

            Finally I visited one of the most important Colonial buildings remaining in the United States.  York’s Old Gaol(Jail) was built in 1719 on a hill which now overlooks Rt. 1A.  It incorporated wood from a previous jail built in 1653 in York so it has a connection dating back more than 350 years.  The name ‘gaol’ is pronounced ‘jail’ and has been associated with the building since it was built as the Kings Prison for the Province of Maine.  It was the main jail for the state up until just before the American Revolution.  After that it was the York County Jail until 1860.  After the Civil War it fell into disrepair.  The cause to restore it and use it as a museum came in 1900 thanks to William Dean Howells, a summer York resident and editor of Atlantic Monthly,  and also York resident Mary Sowells Perkins.

            Although it took many months for me to finally make it there York, Maine for me was worth the wait.  Cape Neddick Lighthouse immediately became one of my favorite places I have visited thus far.  The beaches, both Long Sands and Short Sands, were exquisite.  Do not forget to make time to stop in and have something delicious at The Stolen Menu Café as well!  Have fun and happy traveling! 

     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Cape Neddick Lighthouse:  From I-95 N passing through NH into Maine take Exit 7 for Rt. 1.  Turn left onto Rt. 1 and follow 3.2 miles.  Turn right onto Cape Neddick Rd., follow 1 mile.  Slight right onto Shore Rd., continue onto Main St., turn left onto Railroad Ave.  Railroad Ave. becomes Church St., follow .4 miles, turn left onto Nubble Rd., stay right to stay on Nubble Rd.  Follow ½ mile, take 1^st right onto Sohier Park Rd., follow to lighthouse.

            The Stolen Menu Café:  From I-95 N passing through NH into Maine take Exit 7 for Rt. 1.  Turn right onto Rt. 1 S, turn left onto York St., continue onto Long Sands Rd.  Follow ½ miles, café is on right.

References:  York, Maine.org

            The Stolen Menu Cafe.com

            Old York.org

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