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Showing posts with label commercial street. Show all posts
Showing posts with label commercial street. Show all posts

Sunday, September 28, 2025

Provincetown's Forgotten Maritime Disaster - Cape Cod History




In the courtyard of a beautiful but unassuming church on the East End of Commercial Street in Provincetown, there stands a wooden cross. For a church, this is hardly a surprise. That is, until one approaches the cross and finds two plaques, one on either side.

On the side of the cross facing the church is a square plaque that reads: ‘In Memory of the Officers and Crew of the Submarine S-4. Sunk Off Wood End. Dec. 17, 1927.’ On the side facing Commercial Street is a much larger rectangular plaque. Here one finds the names of all of the men lost. There are forty of them. This is the story of the USS S-4, a deeply tragic and also mostly forgotten disaster.




Despite seeming like a 20th-century invention, the history of the submarine dates back to the late 1500s. It was in 1578 that English mathematician William Bourne first conceived the idea of an undersea vessel. It would, however, take more than forty years to put that idea into action. Dutch inventor Cornelis Drebbel is credited with the physical invention of the submarine. He was able to dive underneath England’s River Thames in 1620.

Over the ensuing three centuries, the submarine as a military vessel would grow and evolve. American colonist David Bushnell created a submarine affectionately known as the ‘Turtle’ in 1775. With hand-cranked propellers, it was meant to be used as a weapon against the British during the Revolutionary War. It was a failure.

In 1800, American inventor Robert Fulton designed his Nautilus submarine. It was seen as more modern, coming equipped with adjustable dive planes and a dual-propulsion system. The H.L. Hunley, a Confederate sub, sank the USS Housatonic during the American Civil War in 1864. It wasn’t until World War I that the submarine became a more common piece of equipment, particularly by the Germans with their U-boats.

The 1920s submarines were far advanced than those of the preceding century. Though not without their own operational difficulties, the U.S. Navy’s S-Class vessels represented the first properly functioning designs. S-4 was a diesel-electric submarine commissioned in 1919. The 231-foot-long steel behemoth was one of fifty-one such ‘Sugar’ boats built between 1918 and 1925. Eight years passed with little fanfare or issue with the S-4. That all changed on the afternoon of December 17, 1927.

The USS S-4(Public Domain)



On December 15th, the S-4 had been refitted at the Portsmouth, New Hampshire Navy Yard. After that, it headed for Cape Cod, captained by R.K. Jones. The S-4 was to be engaged in standard speed and maneuverability trials off the tip of Provincetown near Wood End Lighthouse. During the early afternoon of December 17th, while the S-4, with forty men aboard, was performing submerged runs. Up on the surface, a different sort of patrol was happening.

The 1920s were smack dab in the middle of the Prohibition Era in the United States. Provincetown, with its mass of challenging dunes at Race Point, was a haven for illegal alcohol smuggling. The Coast Guard had dispatched a 740-ton destroyer, USCGC Paulding (CG-17), captained by Lieutenant Commander John S. Baylis, to conduct rum patrols around the tip of Cape Cod.

Baylis had just investigated one schooner off Wood End and was headed back into Provincetown Harbor. In the days before radar and sonar, it was incredibly difficult for a ship to know the position of a submarine. What happened next was catastrophic.

The Paulding in 1918(Public Domain)



At about 3:37pm, while the S-4 was surfacing from a submerged run, the Paulding, which was steaming nearby, struck the sub at a speed of 18 knots. Accounts describe the telescope of the S-4 surfacing near the Paulding’s bow, less than seventy-five yards away. Ensign P. Miller, the man on watch for the Paulding, thought it was a fish stick, the marker fishermen use for their nets.

The destroyer collided with the submarine’s hull, punching holes that quickly flooded compartments. The S-4 rolled over and sank bow first within minutes to the bottom, roughly 130 feet down, less than a mile off Wood End.

The Paulding stopped and launched a lifeboat, but there were no men to be found. They all had gone down in the submarine. The ship next dropped a buoy to mark where the S-4 had gone down. To save itself from also sinking, the Coast Guard vessel had to run itself aground at Long Point with a gaping wound.

Immediately, the Coast Guard and Navy dispatched vessels, divers, and salvage specialists. Captain Adolphus Andrews, commander of the Submarine Base in New London, Connecticut, was ordered to send all available vessels to the site. Word reached President Calvin Coolidge, who expressed regret and intense anxiety over the disaster.

Divers reached the hull and established that many of the crew had moved into dry compartments. It was only a slight hope, since sealed compartments could mean survivors if rescuers could keep them supplied with air and prevent flooding.

Communication was established with men trapped in the forward torpedo room by divers and the surface commanders. The men inside replied with a series of taps on the hull, demonstrating that at least six were known to be alive there in the hours after the sinking. Time was of the essence as some of the naval officers gave the crew roughly three days to survive under the water. It was seen as a 1000-1 shot, but it was enough of a chance for the rescuers.

Unfortunately, winter storms, rough seas, strong currents, and the limited depth technology of the era repeatedly hampered rescue operations. Teams attempted to rig air hoses and pumps to the submarine and to use divers to keep lines attached and to feed air into compartments. The weather and wreckage complexity repeatedly forced pauses in the operation. Over several days, rescuers worked frantically; the men in the torpedo room continued to send taps and other signals for some period.

Ultimately, after days of fits and starts in deteriorating conditions, those survivors succumbed before divers could effectively extract them. In the end, all forty on board died. Those aboard the S-4 included officers, enlisted men, a Naval officer, and a civilian. It was noted afterward that the thirty-two men found in the engine room had likely died within hours of the collision due to either drowning or asphyxiation, thanks to carbon dioxide.

The story of the horrific collision and the loss of all on board the S-4 was nationwide news. It stunned locals who could see the buoys that had been left on the surface above the location of the doomed vessel by the submarine tender Wandank. In the end, those buoys would be used for the salvage mission.

Secretary of the Navy Curtis D. Wilbur (2nd from left) during salvage work of S-4 in March 1928. Captain Ernest King and Lieutenant Henry Hartley in charge of the salvage operation, are first and second from right, while Rear Admiral Philip Andrews (left) looks on.(Public Domain)


Despite the massive loss of life on the S-4, the vessel was not a total loss. An experienced salvage force was sent to Cape Cod. This included Captain Ernest J. King, Commander Edward Ellsberg, other senior Navy and Coast Guard officers, and local crews from Provincetown.

Over the winter and into early 1928, divers and salvage crews worked to attach lifting pontoons and cables. After months of difficult work, a successful raising and tow to the Boston Navy Yard occurred in March 1928. S-4 was later repaired and returned to service as a test and training vessel before final decommissioning in the 1930s.

The S-4 being towed to Boston Navy Yard.(Public Domain)



In the end, though it was an accident, there was blame to be placed. Lieutenant Walter J. MacGregor, commanding officer in the Naval Militia, placed the blame on Prohibition. He said in an interview in the immediate aftermath that the vessels out searching for rum runners go where they please, while the submarines stick to very specific routes. The crew of the Paulding was not blamed for the accident. It was however used as a battle cry for those looking for the repeal of Prohibition. This ended up happening in December 1933.

One of the most important legacies of the S-4 tragedy was pressure to improve submarine escape and rescue capability. The limits of the 1920s response, weather-vulnerable diving operations, no standardized submarine rescue chamber, and primitive escape equipment for individual submariners became painfully obvious. The loss of S-4, which came after an earlier disaster involving the S-51 submarine in 1925, pushed submarine professionals and the Navy bureaucracy to accelerate research into reliable rescue tools.

Two major innovations that came soon after the S-4 disaster were first the creation of the Momsen ‘lung.’ These were individual escape breathing devices. The other innovation was the McCann Submarine Rescue Chamber. This was a chamber that could be lowered to a distressed submarine in up to 850 feet of water. The chamber later proved its worth in the 1939 rescue of 33 men from USS Squalus, the first large-scale successful deep submarine rescue.

Beyond equipment, the S-4 tragedy contributed to procedural and cultural changes: improved training, standardized rescue ships and teams, new communications/telephone buoys and mating procedures, better watertight doors and bulkhead designs, and even hazard pay reforms for submariners, all measures aimed at reducing the chance that a similar accident would end in total loss.

Cape Cod paid homage to those lost on the S-4. On the tenth anniversary of the disaster, December 17, 1937, services were held at the Church of St. Mary of the Harbor. After the services, the pastor, Reverend Robert Wood Nicholson, dedicated a timber cross adorned with a pair of plaques commemorating those lives lost. It was fitting that the cross was fashioned from wood salvaged from another shipwreck off Cape Cod.

It has been nearly a century since forty men lost their lives in a horrific but seemingly unavoidable accident off Provincetown. The wooden cross, standing in the courtyard of the Church of St. Mary of the Harbor, is the only reminder of the tragedy that happened just offshore.




Cape Cod, especially the Atlantic Ocean side from Eastham to Provincetown, has a legacy of being a haven for shipwrecks. Sadly, many of those wrecks, and the people who went down on them, become lost to time. Such is the same fate of the forty men lost on the submarine S-4. If one is taking a stroll down Commercial Street, stop into the courtyard and pay respects to those lives lost in Provincetown’s forgotten maritime disaster.




Those lost aboard the S-4

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 21: Provincetown, Mass.


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 21: Provincetown, Mass.
February 9, 2010

            It’s the end of the line as far as Cape Cod goes.  The farthest north you can go before reaching the ocean; Provincetown may be the last stop on Route 6 but it should be one of the first on your visit to the Cape.  It is a small town filled with culture, art, and a lot of fishing history. 
MacMillan Wharf from the Pilgrim Monument
            The view from Route 6 heading from Truro into Provincetown is perhaps the best scenery along the entire Mid-Cape highway.  With huge sloping sand dunes on the right across Pilgrim Lake and rows of summer cottages on the left it can be hard to concentrate on the road ahead of you.  There is a turn off along the way that brings you to Rt. 6A; that route carries you along the water to Provincetown Harbor.  The harbor itself is at the southern point of the Provincetown historic district which is part of the National Register of Historic Places.  The main piers of the harbor are MacMillan Wharf and Cabral Pier also known as ‘Fisherman’s Wharf.’  The waters are very calm thanks to the West End Breakwater.  Located directly behind the wharf is the very popular Lobster Pot restaurant that is frequented by tourists   and locals alike.
Wood End Light
            There are two lighthouses located across from the harbor on the sandy Long Point.  Wood End Light is located at the southwest point of Long Point.  Built in 1873 and standing forty-five feet tall, Wood End light is square and made of brick.  The lighthouse is not open to the public but can be reached if you are willing to walk a nearly mile long breakwater.  The walk is not as hard as it may seem from the beginning and the views of the Pilgrim Monument from the other side of the breakwater is amazing.
            Located at the tip of Long Point is the Long Point Light Station.  Built in 1875 this light is similar in appearance to Wood End Light.  A settlement was begun on that location in 1818, reaching its peak at about 200 people.  The light station was established shortly thereafter.  Some of the houses which once sat on Long Point were floated across the harbor to Provincetown’s West End and are marked by plaques.  The light is also accessible via the breakwater you use to reach Wood End Light but it is wise to go at low tide to visit either or both of these lighthouses.
Race Point Light
            A little further north up the coast sits another historic lighthouse which is just difficult to reach.  Located in between Race Point Beach and Herring Cove Beach sits the Race Point Lighthouse.  Originally built in 1876 the lighthouse is nearly a mile and a half walk either along the beach or via the bike trail that starts at the end of the Herring Cove parking lot.  I did both and recommend the bike trail walk.  Or if you have a permit and a suitable vehicle the light can be accessed by driving off road.
The light itself is worth the trip with a spectacular view of Race Point where the waves crash on shore seemingly from all directions as it is where the Cape’s land bends.  From May through October the lighthouse keeper’s house as well as the beautifully renovated brick Whistle House are available for rent by day or week.  It is a peek into how life must have been for the light keepers back at the turn of the 20th Century.
Race Point Beach has its own share of history as it houses the Old Harbor Life Saving Station.  Built in 1897 it was originally located at the Chatham Harbor entrance to Nauset Beach but was moved in 1977 due to the constant threat of beach erosion.  It sits in a small dune valley just off of the parking lot.  A Coast Guard station sits at the far end of the parking lot and there is an intermittent buzz from planes at the nearby Provincetown Airport as they land and take off.  Race Point is actually one of the few spots on the Cape that is actually benefiting from coastal erosion as the sand from the south is being deposited in this area making for a very large sandy beach.
Old Harbor Life Saving Station
If beaches and lighthouses are not your thing there is another major piece of American history that is seen from all over Provincetown and that is the Pilgrim Monument.  Standing majestically at a whopping 252-feet tall it is that largest granite structure in the country.  Perched upon High Pole Hill the monument is set to commemorate its 100th anniversary on August 5, 2010.  The monument is in recognition of the Pilgrims first landing spot in 1620 as well as the signing of the Mayflower Compact which was the first instance of a democratic society in the New World.  The walk up to the observation area is filled with history as etched in many of the granite blocks are the names of Massachusetts towns and the years in which they were incorporated as towns.  The Provincetown Museum sits on the grounds with the harbor below.   One can see all the way down the National Seashore and across the bay toward Boston and the South Shore.
Pilgrim Monument
No trip to Provincetown would be complete, or even possible, without driving along the historic Commercial Street.  This incredibly narrow road is filled with art museums as well as more modern and expensive condos and houses facing the harbor.  Even in the dead of winter this road is difficult to navigate and should be taken slowly.  This gives any visitor ample time to enjoy all of the historic sites, there are eight buildings in Provincetown on the National Register of Historic Places.  In summer this area is choked with people who come to enjoy the festive carnival-like atmosphere.  Any person of any age can find something to like about Provincetown in the summer.
It was the first landing spot of the Pilgrims.  Provincetown holds major significance in the history of not only the fishing industry.  It also was where some major artists came to garner inspiration.  People like painter Jackson Pollock, writer Norman Mailer, and composer Cole Porter, at one point plied their crafts in Provincetown.  Perhaps you will find your own inspiration among the beauty and history of this area.  Even if you don’t, a trip up along the ‘arm’ of Cape Cod to Provincetown will be a trip talked about for a long time.  Have fun and happy traveling!
Directions: Provincetown Harbor: From Rt. 6 east, turn right onto Conwell St.  Bear left onto Cemetery Rd.  Turn left at Standish Street and continue onto Lopes Square.  From here Wood End and Long Point Light are accessible at low tide.
Pilgrim Monument & Provincetown Museum: From Rt. 6 east turn left at Shank Painter Rd. and take a sharp left at Jerome Smith Rd.  Take the 3rd right onto Winslow St. and the 3rd left onto High Pole Rd. which is where the monument and museum are.
Race Point Light: Herring Cove Beach: Take Rt. 6 east and turn right onto Province Lands Rd.  The light is visible from the parking lot.  Race Point Beach: From Rt. 6 east turn right onto Race Point Rd. and follow it to the parking lot.  The lighthouse is west from the lot and is not immediately visible.
References: Race Point Light
            Provincetown Historical Timeline
            The Lobster Pot Restaurant
            Wood End Lighthouse