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Showing posts with label nathaniel hawthorne. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nathaniel hawthorne. Show all posts

Thursday, November 4, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 82: Concord, New Hampshire

In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund


Trip 82:  Concord, New Hampshire
September 21, 2010


            Although it is one of the smallest capitals people-wise in the United States, Concord has an amazing amount of history.  A beautiful city at the end of a beautiful drive down from Central New Hampshire, Concord gives you a chance to be in a city, a state capital none the less, but also retain the feel of a family friendly town.
            It was originally inhabited by the Abenaki tribe of Native Americans and later became known as Rumford upon being settled by colonists between 1725 and 1727.  The name Concord came about in 1765 after a border dispute between Rumford and its neighboring Bow.  The name Concord means harmony and thus the name was meant to reflect the new harmony, or concord between the two towns.
New Hampshire State House
So much of the modern history of Concord has to do with the United States government.  It is easy to get lost in the wonder of the history of Concord as soon as you step foot in front of the State House on North Main Street.  With its golden dome and well kept green lawn heading toward its granite steps the New Hampshire State House is as beautiful as it is historical. 
The State House is the oldest state capitol in the country where the legislators still meet in the original chambers.  The first sessions of the General Court took place here in 1819.  After parking on North Main Street I entered the grounds of the State House through a magnificent granite archway that made me truly feel as though as I passing from the present to the past.  It was an awe-inspiring time to get to stand so close to a spot with such a significant meaning to it.  It has always been known as the ‘people’s house’ and therefore there are no gates around the ground, which also means there is no excuse not to take some time to pay the State House a visit.
Concord also offered me my first opportunity to visit the resting place of a former United States President.  Born in 1804 in Hillsborough, New Hampshire, a small town thirty-six miles south of Concord, Franklin Pierce is as of today the only President born in New Hampshire.  Pierce was the 14th President of the United States, serving from 1853 to 1857.  He also fought as a brigadier general in the Mexican-American War from 1846 to 1848.  He was seen as very personable and therefore made a great deal of friends, however his record as president was less than stellar and is widely forgotten.
The grave of Franklin Pierce.
I first paid a visit to Pierce’s final resting place at the Old North Cemetery on North State Street.  The grave itself is in a small enclosure surrounded by an iron fence.  I was honored to be standing before the grave of a former U.S. President, no matter what his political achievements may have been.  However, I was also amazed at what little fanfare there was to this simple plot.  If I had not gone there specifically to look for Franklin Pierce’s grave I might have passed right by it.  The unspectacular headstone seemed to be fitting of what I have read about Pierce’s life and accomplishments.
The connection to Franklin Pierce continued at the Pierce Manse on Horseshoe Pond Lane.  The term ‘manse’ means ‘a house lived it by its owner,’ it was bestowed upon the house in 1969 as a nod to Pierce’s longtime friend, author Nathaniel Hawthorne.  Hawthorne’s Salem, Massachusetts home was known as ‘The Old Manse.’
The Franklin Pierce Manse
Much like his grave the only place in New Hampshire ever lived in by Franklin Pierce and his family is very unassuming.  I had expected a gigantic mansion but the Manse is much more modest for a President.  Sticking with that theme the Manse was actually saved from being demolished in 1971 by a group called the ‘Pierce Brigade.’  Imagine that?  A home lived in by a former President actually was going to be demolished?  I guess as someone who loves and respects history I find that almost unimaginable.  The home was moved from its original location on Montgomery Street to its current location in 1971 once the land it sits on was acquired.  It is open by appointment year round.         
After leaving the life of Franklin Pierce behind I found a beautiful park which held another smaller, probably less significant piece of history.  White Park, located on White Street is a great place for families to gather for picnics and other outdoor activities but it is the pristine baseball field with unbelievable brick dugouts that caught my eye.
Site of the Sunset Beaseball League at White Park.
I did not know it beforehand but the baseball field, now known as Red Eastman Field, was much more than meets the eye.  It turns out that this field was and still is the home of the Sunset League.  The Sunset League is the country’s oldest evening amateur baseball league formed in 1909.  The original teams’ names were the White Parks, Old Timers, Haymakers, and Sluggers.  This field was a training ground for some future Major Leaguers including Red Rolfe who collected nearly 1,400 hits during ten seasons with the New York Yankees from 1931-42.  After finding this information out I had to stop and really take in the beauty of the field, imagining what it was like when the ‘after supper’ games first began over a hundred years ago.
Finally on my trip to Concord I stopped at the Christa McAuliffe Planetarium.  This was a spot I really wanted to see because of the connection the Space Shuttle Challenger explosion has to my childhood.  I remembered learning about the citizen astronauts, especially Mrs. McAuliffe who was a teacher, when I was in second grade in 1986.  We watched the launch live and saw the unbelievable tragedy as it unfolded.
McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center
Seeing this beautiful dedication to Mrs. McAuliffe and to a lesser extent the Challenger crew was a sort of cathartic experience for me.  I really liked the model Mercury-Redstone rocket ship just outside of the building; it stands ninety-two feet tall and was like something out of the 1960’s.  Even if you are not familiar with the Challenger events this planetarium is a must see for science and space lovers.  I really think that if you are not a fan of either you will be by the time you leave.   
Concord, New Hampshire is a state capitol with a small town feel.  It is every bit as historic and filled with everything a city has to offer but it is much less imposing than larger capital cities might be.  Take the time to tour the State House, even just the grounds.  Visit the grave and home of a former president, check out a beautiful historic baseball field, and definitely pay homage to Astronaut Christa McAuliffe at the planetarium named in her honor.  Have fun and happy traveling!

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!


Directions:  New Hampshire State House:  From I-93 headed north take Exit 15W for Rt. 202.  Merge onto Rt. 202, turn left after a half mile to stay on Rt. 202, State House is half mile away on right.
            Franklin Pierce Manse:  From I-93 headed north take Exit 15W for Rt. 202.  Turn right at N. Main St., Pierce Manse will be straight ahead at end of the road.
            Christa McAuliffe Planetarium:  From I-93 headed north take Exit 15E for I-393.  Take Exit 1, turn left at Ft. Eddy Rd.  Continue onto College Dr., turn right at Institute Drive.

References:  Pierce Manse.org
                McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center
            Concord, NH - Official Site
            New Hampshire Historical Society

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 30: Salem, Mass.


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 30: Salem, Mass.
March 6, 2010

            Much like with my visit to Plymouth, Salem, Massachusetts seems to overflow with history.  Just about every street, every house, every building in general has an amazing story.  Certainly the first thing that comes to mind when hearing the name ‘Salem’ is the infamous Salem Witch Trials of 1692.  The ‘Trials,’ in which twenty-six people were found guilty of witchcraft, have left their mark all across this historic town.  Not confined to the Halloween season, witches adorn the police cars that pass by.  It gives Salem an aura unlike most places in the United States. 
            The Witch House, also known as the Jonathan Corwin House, located on Essex Street, is the only building still standing with a connection to the Witch Trials.  For a deeper look into the history of that era there is the Salem Witch Museum and the Witch Dungeon Museum.
            However there are many other sites to see in this town that do not have any connection to the Witch Trials.  A perfect place to start is at the Salem Maritime National Historic Site.  With twelve historic structures on nine acres of waterfront land this was the first American National Historic Site.  As soon as you step foot on the grounds you are face to face with a replica of the Friendship of Salem(left).  The original ship was built in 1797 and captured as a war prize by the British during the War of 1812.  The Friendship of Salem was an East Indiaman ship, meaning that it was chartered to the historic East Indian Company founded by Britain which dealt in trade with the Asia and India.  The ship is open for tours year round, weather permitting, and is a very faithful replica of the original.
            Derby Wharf, Salem’s longest at a half mile, stretches out into Salem Harbor and houses a tremendous view of the Maritime Historic Site as a whole.  Sitting at the end of the wharf is Derby Wharf Light, a brick square lighthouse built in 1871.  Standing only fourteen feet tall, Derby Wharf Light was built due to belief that another lighthouse, in addition to the two that already stood, were needed to complete the lighting of Salem Harbor.  Not open to the public, this lighthouse is solar powered and is still used to this day for private navigation.
            Close by on Derby Street sits The House of the Seven Gables(left), one of the places with a connection to literary legend and Salem resident Nathanial Hawthorne.  Seven Gables is a 17th Century mansion, now a museum open to the public for a fee.  The seven ‘gables’ refers to the triangular portion of a wall between the edges of a sloping roof.  In addition to The House of the Seven Gables being a Hawthorne novel, The Scarlet Letter, Hawthorne’s most famous work, was set in 17th Century Purtian Boston.  Hawthorne’s birthplace(below) itself is also a historic landmark located on the ground of the House of the Seven Gables museum. 
As the story goes, Nathaniel Hawthorne was born ‘Hathorne.’  He added the ‘w’ to his last name during his twenties when he discovered that his great-great grandfather was a judge that had presided over the Salem Witch Trials.  Even with a legendary author like Nathaniel Hawthorne it all comes back to the Witch Trials.  All around The House of the Seven Gables are historic homes, it seems like every house you pass has a plaque on it dating the buildings up to 300 years old.  Salem’s Heritage Trail, a painted red line that leads through the towns’ roads, begins at Remember Salem Gifts and ends at Derby Wharf.  It is a great trip through history and some great exercise on a sunny day. 
            A spot visible from Derby Wharf that is another historic area is Winter Island.  Sitting on forty-five acres, Winter Island has two attractions that must be seen.  The first one is Fort Pickering which was originally built in 1644.  Manned during the War of 1812, the Civil War, and the Spanish-American War, Fort Pickering’s remains are still visible in the hills along the shore.  Fort Pickering Light(left) was built in 1871, the same as Derby Wharf Light and Beverly’s Hospital Point Light.  Nearly destroyed by the Blizzard of ’78, this lighthouse was brought back from the brink by a group of concerned citizens in the early 1980’s.  It is a beautiful site along Salem Harbor, you can risk walking the rocks to stand along side the light as I did, but it is probably easier to sit on one of the benches on the nearby hill and have a more comfortable viewing experience.
            On the opposite coast, facing Beverly Harbor, sits the Salem Willows Amusement Park.  Part of an oceanside neighborhood, the thirty-five acre Salem Willows became a public park in 1858 and also became a popular summer retreat for folks living in Boston.  It is home to a remarkable hand-carved carousel originally created in 1866.  There is a tradition of great summer jazz concerts at the Willows and in the past jazz legends like Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong played here.  The first ice cream cones were introduced to Americans on this site in 1906.  As great as the amusement park is, Salem Willows also has some beautiful views of Beverly Harbor and is great for walking or picnicking as well.
            There is almost no way to see all that Salem has to offer in one trip.  I know myself that a second trip is needed for me to fully appreciate this epicenter of so much history.  I loved all I did see and am looking forward to visiting each and every historic spot in the future.  I believe that all Americans, not just locals, should visit Salem at least once it is a gold mine as far as historical and cultural significance.  Have fun and happy traveling!
Directions: Salem Maritime National Historic Site:  From Rt. 128 heading north take Exit 25A.  Turn right onto Rt. 114, follow Rt. 114 until bearing slightly right onto Rt. 107.  Turn right to stay on Rt. 107/Bridge Street, take the 2nd right onto Williams Street.  Turn right onto Rt. 1-A, left at Derby Street.  The Maritime Historic Site is on the right as well as Derby Wharf Light and The Friendship of Salem.
The House of the Seven Gables: From Rt. 128 heading north take Exit 25A.  Turn right onto Rt. 114, follow Rt. 114 until bearing slightly right onto Rt. 107.  Turn right to stay on Rt. 107/Bridge Street, take the 2nd right onto Williams Street.  Turn right onto Rt. 1-A, left at Derby Street.  Follow Derby Street, parking area for Seven Gables is in between Hardy St. and Turner St.
Winter Island/Fort Pickering:  From Rt. 128 heading north take Exit 25A.  Turn right onto Rt. 114, follow Rt. 114 until bearing slightly right onto Rt. 107.  Turn right to stay on Rt. 107/Bridge Street, take the 2nd right onto Williams Street.  Turn right onto Rt. 1-A, left at Derby Street.  Continue onto Fort Ave.  Turn right at Winter Island Rd.
Salem Willows Amusement Park:  From Rt. 128 heading north take Exit 25A.  Turn right onto Rt. 114, follow Rt. 114 until bearing slightly right onto Rt. 107.  Turn right to stay on Rt. 107/Bridge Street, take the 2nd right onto Williams Street.  Turn right onto Rt. 1-A, left at Derby Street.  Continue onto Fort Ave, follow it to the end, Salem Willows is on the left.    
            Salem Willows Amusement Park
            Salem Witch Trials.com
            Salem.org