In My Footsteps: Trip 100: Norwell, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 100:  Norwell, Massachusetts

December 16, 2010

            For all of my travels up and down the coasts of Massachusetts, the South Shore and North Shore, there are still places that are completely unfamiliar to me.  Some of them are very close by to where I live.  One such spot is Norwell; it lies in between the places I have visited along the South Shore and some of the places further inland that I have seen like Easton and Brockton.  I was very interested in finding out what this area was about and I was not disappointed.

Norris Reservation

            Ironically even though it is not along the shore the town of Norwell was originally settled as a part of Scituate and was known as South Scituate up until 1888.  It was then that the name was changed to Norwell after dry goods merchant Henry Norwell who provided funding to maintain the town’s roads.  Norwell was originally settled for agriculture and relied heavily on shipbuilding through the 19^th century.  Now the small town of under 10,000 people is a very affluent community.

Stetson-Ford House c.1674

There are plenty of historic homes and buildings inside the borders of Norwell which I always enjoy but it was the conservation lands which stood out for me.  Chief among those was Norris Reservation on Dover Street.  I knew this spot was going to be special from the moment I spotted the small pond on the left hand side about a thousand feet from the parking lot.  The pond was iced over but it was still draining frigid water underneath a wooden footbridge and down a small creek.  With a bright sun in the sky it made for some amazing colors on the rushing water below and some impressive photos of the ice that had collected around the bases of a few trees and rocks partially submerged in the water. 

I don’t recommend what I did next to everyone but I did manage to scale down the small gully to the water’s edge to get some more incredible views of this unexpected surprise at Norris Reservation.  Afterwords I also found a fir tree decorated for the Christmas season complete with colored ball ornaments and some silver streamers.  It definitely got me in the spirit.  There are also other smaller parks in Norwell including Gaffield Park which is only a short drive from Norris Reservation on River Street.  It was established in 1896, has a nice playground area and some interesting names of point of interest such as Hemlock Hollow and Lookout Point.

The North River

There were a few spots that combined the natural with the historical and I was glad to get to experience them.  One particular spot was as nice as it was hard to get to.  Stetson Meadows and the Stetson-Ford House are located in a very remote area of Norwell, although the road to get to it is actually bordered by Rt. 3.  Stetson Meadows is a conservation area with a lot of trails and a marsh on the eastern side.  The Stetson-Ford House located near the dirt parking area of the property was built in 1674 by Thomas Stetson.  His father, Cornet Robert Stetson, was the first colonial resident of Norwell.  From the parking area down to the marsh’s edge is a short walk and it was quite enjoyable thanks to the sun and some tall pine trees which border a field running along the dirt path.

I did however mention that it was a long drive out to Stetson Meadows but that should not deter any potential visitors to this conservation area.  It is about a mile out to the house and conservation area, much of that along a rough dirt road along the highway.  It is worth the bumpy ride; just take your time getting there.

Jacobs Farmhouse c.1726

After leaving Stetson Meadows I stopped at an overpass on Bridge Street to view the North River.  The spot I chose has a small parking area and is located just before the border with neighboring Marshfield.  The North River played a very important role in the economy of Norwell back when it was still known as South Scituate.  This spot on Bridge Street is where most of the boats enter the water and there are scenic foliage tours offered in the fall.

The final spot I visited is the location of Norwell’s Historical Society.  The Jacobs Farmhouse, on the corner of Main Street and Jacobs Lane was built in 1726 and descendants of the Jacobs family lived in the home until 1939 when it was given to the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiques.  The house is across the street from the fifty-nine acre Jacobs Pond.  The pond is man-made, created in 1730 when Third Herring Brook was dammed where Main Street is now. 

It was deserted on this day so I was able to walk around the grounds freely and snap some great photos.  There is an acre and a half field beside the farmhouse which is run by the non-profit Norwell Farms.  There was some farm equipment in a building across the street from the farmhouse including a really neat tractor.  Even though there was nobody around I did not dare get too close to the equipment.  I am sure if you arrive at the Jacobs Farmhouse while folks from the historical society are around they will show you the equipment close up.

Not quite the South Shore, not that far inland, Norwell has a charm all its own.  The historic homes and places are topped only by the amazing conservation areas like Norris Reservation.  It was a virtual unknown area to me before but now it has become a spot I will fondly remember.  I believe that any visitor will enjoy their time in Norwell.  Have fun and happy traveling!

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Directions:  Norris Reservation:  From Rt. 3 take Exit 12, turn left at Church St., take 1^st left onto Old Oak St.  Continue onto Union St., follow for 3.3 miles, continue onto Bridge St.  Turn left at Rt. 123, follow half a mile, take a slight left at Dover St.  Parking area is on left.

            Jacobs Farmhouse:  From Rt. 3 take Exit 13, turn right at Rt. 53, turn right at Rt. 123, follow half a mile.  Farmhouse is on left on corner of Jacobs Lane.

References:  Norwell Ma.com

            The Trustees.org - Norris Reservation

                Norwell Farms.org

In My Footsteps: Trip 62: Cohasset, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 62:  Cohasset, Mass.

July 8, 2010

            Before visiting the seaside town of Cohasset I had one idea of what it would be like, and after leaving I had a totally different opinion.  I originally had thought that Cohasset was a town centered around a top attraction which sat a mile offshore in Minot’s Ledge Lighthouse.  As amazing as the story and, albeit limited, view of the lighthouse is I came to discover that there is so much more to Cohasset than just Minot’s Ledge Light. 

The third lens from Minot's Ledge Light.

            I began my trip with a visit to the Cohasset Sailing Club which during this time of year was sprinkled with many vessels.  There is a major connection to Minot’s Ledge Light on the grounds as well.  It is here that the third lens from Minot’s Ledge Light is kept, unfortunately without a boat it was the closest that I will get to the lighthouse itself.  The area around the Sailing Club was one that I stopped and enjoyed for a while.  From kids jumping off of the bridge on Border Street, to people going in and out on their boats, and even a few dogs enjoying a swim, it was a great scene. 

            The next area I went to is not necessarily one place, but the views are something that must be taken in.  Taking a drive along Atlantic Avenue will really give you a sense of what makes Cohasset special.  I had to stop my car and get out at one particular place where Atlantic Avenue turns into Jerusalem Road.  It was here on a corner that there is a magnificent view to the north of the Boston skyline and Boston Harbor from a height of probably fifty-feet.  When I turned to the south there was the small grey finger-like image of Minot’s Ledge Light.  I would have stayed there longer but I had many other places to see.

The view of Boston from Atlantic Avenue.

            I went into the center of Cohasset next to see the amazing Town Common and some of what Main Street had to offer.  The Town Common comes complete with a man-made pond filled with fish, it has several benches and shade-giving trees surrounding it.  As I was taking in the beauty of the Common I heard the ringing of the bells at the neighboring St. Stephen’s Parish.  Normally this would not be a big deal but it became a big deal when I heard the church’s choice in music.  The songs on the list included ‘Rubber Ducky,’ and ‘Sing A Song’ from Sesame Street.  Little things like that make a trip like this stay with me long after I return home.

French Memories

            A short walk from the Common is a place known all across Southeastern Massachusetts: French Memories.  The small bakery on South Main Street is filled with homemade pastries, cakes, and cheeses.  This is topped only by the fact that they serve lunch as well, freshly made sandwiches and soups.  Anne and Jean-Jacques Gabanelle are the owners and they have a fantastic place.  I drove an hour to partake in some of their delicious treats, I think that it was not that far for something that good. 

            Only a short drive up the street from French Memories and the Town Common is a beautiful section of conservation land known as Wheelwright Park.  This is a great area, not too large, the main loop trail takes less than an hour to complete.  There are several places of interest along the route including several boulders with unique names like Big Tippling, Little Tippling, and the Moraine Boulder.  The spot that drew my interest the most was the Devil’s Chair.  This particular rock does not look much different from the others in Wheelwright Park but for the fact that there is a large chunk missing out of the side which gives it the appearance of being a seat.  Of course I had to take a minute to sit down in it, throwing my superstitions out the window.

Minot's Ledge Lighthouse as seen from Sandy Beach.

            The attraction that Cohasset might be best known for is Minot’s Ledge Light.  As I said earlier it sits more than a mile off shore so it is not accessible but by boat.  For the best views of it I recommend the end of Glades Road, North Scituate Beach, or Sandy Beach on Atlantic Avenue.  Although they are not great views and it can be easily obstructed by some large offshore rocks.    

The current Minot’s Ledge Light which stands 114 feet tall is actually the second built on the spot.  The first Minot Light was lit for the first time on New Year’s Day in 1850.  It is reported that the original keeper lived in constant fear of the lighthouse being taken down by the vicious sea.  This man retired after ten short months.  Sadly for the next keeper and his two assistants the fears became reality as the original Minot’s Ledge Light came crashing down during a huge storm in April 1851.  The lighthouse keeper was away at the time trying to procure a new boat but his assistants were killed.  The iron lighthouse littered two miles of beach in the days after the storm. 

The second lighthouse lens from Minot Light was destroyed by vandals before it could be given to the Boston Museum of Science.  The third lens is the one that can be found on the grounds of the Cohasset Sailing Club.  One of the fog bells used at Minot’s Ledge Light is also on display there as well.

Despite possibly being most well known for an attraction more than a mile off shore Cohasset has no shortage of great places to visit.  Make sure to take the time to try a pastry or sandwich at French Memories before taking a walk on the Town Common or a drive on Atlantic Avenue or Glades Road.  Take a seat in the Devil’s Chair or walk the beach to look for Minot’s Ledge Light, you can’t go wrong on a trip through Cohasset.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Cohasset Sailing Club: From Rt. 3A north turn right onto Henry Turner Bailey Rd., turn left at County Way this becomes S. Main St., turn right onto Summer St. after 1.3 miles.  Follow with a slight right onto Border St., turn left at Government Island Rd. after a half mile.  The club is on the left.  From the Sailing Club, follow Border St., turn right onto Margin Street, turn left onto Atlantic Avenue for a great drive.

            French Memories:  From Rt. 3A north turn right onto Henry Turner Bailey Rd., turn left at County Way this becomes S. Main St., turn right onto Summer St. after 1.3 miles.  Follow with a slight right onto Border St.  Left onto Summer St., quick left onto Elm Street.  Left onto Brook Street and right onto South Main Street.  French Memories is on right side.   The Town Common is a short walk up on the right side.

            Wheelwright Park:  From French Memories take S. Main Street which becomes N. Main Street.  The entrance is 1 mile up on the right.

           

References:   Minot's Ledge Lighthouse

            French Memories Cohasset

            Cohasset, MA - Town Site

In My Footsteps: Trip 60: Scituate, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 60:  Scituate, Mass.

July 8, 2010

            Driving through Scituate was an amazing experience.  At times I felt as though I was driving through a series of postcards depicting what a perfect small seaside town should look like.  Besides the miles of beautiful shoreline Scituate is filled with some unexpected historical sites with some pretty wild stories.  All in all it is a place that quickly became one of my favorites. 

Old Oaken Bucket Homestead Well

Incorporated in 1636 with a name that comes from the Wampanoag Indian term for ‘cold brook,’ Scituate was primarily a fishing community from the onset.  Route 3A is the main road through Scituate and gives you a great view of the harbor along the North River.  One such postcard view is that of an old fishing house located out in the river near Damons Point Rd.  I had to make a point to stop along the bridge crossing the river to take in the beautiful scene.  It also made me wonder how people get out to this building except by boat, it is as beautiful as it is inaccessible.

One of the many historic spots in Scituate actually has its name in literature.  The Old Oaken Bucket, on the road of the same name, was made famous worldwide by poet Samuel Woodworth.  His 1817 poem about longing for his youth has been described as one of the most beautiful pieces of work in the English language.  The land where the Old Oaken Bucket well and homestead stand today was originally a farm belonging to Samuel Woodworth’s stepmother, Besty Northey.  Woodworth moved there after his father and Northey married in 1796; he often drank from the well on the hot days when he worked with his father on the farmland.  ‘The Old Oaken Bucket’ was voted Scituate’s town song in 1935. 

Lawson Tower

The next spot I visited exceeded my expectations.  It was at this spot where I also was lucky enough to receive a guided tour as well.  Lawson Tower looks a bit out of place among the other historic buildings in this small seaside village.  The reason is because the architecture is straight out of 12^th Century Germany.  Standing 153-feet tall, this amazing piece of architecture is for all intents and purposes the most beautiful water tower on Earth. 

The story of how it came to be is an article in itself.  Around the turn of the 20^th century, millionaire and ‘copper king’ Thomas W. Lawson had built an estate he called ‘Dreamwold,’ in Scituate.  Unfortunately shortly thereafter the Scituate Water Company constructed a very plain, gray steel sandpipe to serve as a water tower.  Not wanting his spectacular view to be ruined Lawson supposedly hired an architect to travel Europe and find a design to cover up the eyesore water tower.  Legend has it that this tower is based on a similar site located at Stahleck Castle on the Rhine River in Germany. 

The Mann Farmhouse

The tower is breathtaking and it overlooks a baseball field on one side and several other historic sites on the other.  It is surrounded by beautiful flowers and a small playground belonging to a neighboring church.  While I was photographing the tower I was able to meet the head of the Scituate Historical Society as he was locking the tower up.  He was gracious enough to take a few minutes to tell me the story of Thomas Lawson and even showed me inside the tower where I could see the remains of the old grey water tower.  He was very knowledgeable and the stories he told me made the trip to Scituate even more interesting.

The building which now houses the Historical Society sits a few steps from Lawson Tower.  The ‘Little Red Schoolhouse’ served as Scituate’s high school from its opening in 1893 until the Gates Intermediate School was built in 1917.  Any trip to Scituate needs to include a stop here, there are pamphlets showcasing all of the town’s historical sites and they come in very handy when trying to plan a day trip.

Old Scituate Lighthouse as seen from Museum Beach.

The Mann Farmhouse and Museum on Greenfield Lane is interesting for the fact that the Mann family are the descendants of Richard Mann who settled in Scituate in 1636.  Three generations of Mann’s lived in the house right after, and a seventh generation Mann, Percy Mann, lived in the house until his death in 1968.  There is a beautiful wildflower garden complete with a trellis to enter through and a small walking bridge. 

One sort of offbeat attraction of the Mann Farmhouse is something very easy to miss or misidentify.  According to the story, after having a run-in with town officials over various fees due on his car, Percy Mann in the 1920’s decided it would be better to drive his car out back and leave it there.  For nearly ninety years it has slowly deteriorated and there is now a large tree which has grown up through the frame of the car.  What appeared to me to be misplaced junk became a really neat side note on my trip to Scituate.

Old Scituate Light

            The main attraction in Scituate is the historic Old Scituate Lighthouse.  Built in 1811 and located on Cedar Point in Scituate this lighthouse played an important role in the War of 1812.  It was on this spot that Rebecca and Abigail Bates, the ‘Lighthouse Army of Two,’ scared off the British troops by playing their drum and fife loudly.  The British feared the sounds were of the approaching Scituate Militia and retreated.  After being out of service for over 130 years the lighthouse was once again made visible from sea to aid passing vessels. 

Even before reaching the point where the lighthouse is there was a magnificent view of the entire shoreline on Jericho Road.  Lighthouse Road is dotted with quaint homes, some more than a hundred years old, that are empty during the colder months but were bustling with activity on this day.  There is a breakwater which sticks out into the harbor with many tiny sailboats heading out into the open water from Museum Beach.  It is out on the breakwater where you can get a tremendous view of Scituate Light which looks more like a granite rocket ship than a lighthouse.

A trip through several perfect postcards of a seaside village, that is what Scituate felt like for me.  It is no coincidence then that I have been there three times since beginning these travel articles.  I recommend visiting the Scituate Historical Society and getting the historic site pamphlet and then taking your time to see all of them.  There is something for everyone here.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Old Scituate Light: From Rt. 3 north take Exit 12, merge onto Church Street heading toward Marshfield.  Turn left onto Old Oak St., and continue onto Union St for 3.3 miles.  Union St. becomes Bridge St., turn right onto Rt. 123 for 1.8 miles. Turn onto New Driftway at the rotary, this road becomes New Kent St., Kent St., and Front St. in that order.  Turn right at Jericho Rd. and continue onto light.

            Lawson Tower:  From Rt. 3A heading north take right at First Parish Road.  Take 5^th left turn at Central Park Drive.  Tower is on left.  Little Red Schoolhouse/Historical Society is across the street from Central Park Dr. on Cudworth Road.

            Old Oaken Bucket Homestead:  From Rt. 3A heading north take 4^th exit in rotary which is Old Oaken Bucket Road.  The homestead is about a half mile up on the left.

References:  Scituate Historical Society

            New England Lighthouses - Old Scituate Lighthouse

            Samuel Woodworth's The Old Oaken Bucket Poem

In My Footsteps: Trip 18: Scituate, Cohasset, & Hull, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 18: Scituate, Mass.; Cohasset, Mass.; Hull, Mass.

February 3, 2010

            The coastal towns from the Cape Cod Canal up to Boston make up what is called the ‘South Shore.’  Of all of these towns Plymouth is the most well known being that it is the original landing spot of the Mayflower in 1620.  However there are many other towns with just as much history as Plymouth.  A drive along some of the coastal roads will bring you past some amazing waterfront views and some incredible homes.

            My trip began by taking Route 3 north to Exit 12.  I headed east toward the beautiful town of Scituate.  Incorporated in 1636 with a name that comes from the Wampanoag Indian term for ‘cold brook,’ Scituate was primarily a fishing community from the onset.  Route 3A is the main road through Scituate and gives you a great view of the harbor along North River.  On this snowy morning an old fishing house located out in the river near Damons Point Rd. had the look of a 19^th Century painting.  It reminded me of how New England must have looked in winter back then.

            The main attraction in Scituate is the historic Old Scituate Lighthouse(left).  Built in 1811 and located on Cedar Point in Scituate this lighthouse played an important role in the War of 1812.  It was on this spot that Rebecca and Abigail Bates, the ‘Lighthouse Army of Two,’ scared off the British troops by playing their drum and fife loudly.  The British feared the sounds were of the approaching Scituate Militia and retreated.  After being out of service for over 130 years the lighthouse was once again made visible from sea to aid passing vessels.  Cedar Point is a magnificent area, close to Museum Beach, with several houses more than a hundred years in age close by.  It retains the feel of a small fishing village and would be perfect to walk on a warmer day.

            A few miles north of Old Scituate Light, and two and a half miles offshore, sits another historic lighthouse: Minot’s Ledge Light.  Located off the coast of Cohasset the best view of this light is from the end of Glades Road, or North Scituate Beach, although they are not great views and it can be easily obstructed by some large offshore rocks.  Cohasset was originally part of Hingham but became its own town in 1670. 

The current Minot’s Ledge Light which stands 97 feet tall is actually the second built on the spot.  The first Minot Light was built in 1850 and was subsequently destroyed in a storm a few months later.  The third lighthouse lens(left) from Minot Light can be found on the grounds of the Cohasset Sailing Club.  The club is located along Cohasset Cove in the Government Island Historic District.  The Cohasset Yacht Club is across the cove with the historic 17^th Century Bellarmine House located high on a hill at the end of White Head Road.  It is visible from the Sailing Club as well. 

            Following the coastal roads north next brought me to the little town of Hull.  This peninsula of land, sticking more than two miles out into the water is bordered on the east by Massachusetts Bay and on the west by Hull Bay.  The fourth smallest town in land area in the state, Hull is a thickly settled beach front town.  It is filled with tightly packed houses that all seem right out of early-20^th Century postcards.  The main attraction of Hull, besides its tremendous view of the Boston skyline, is Nantasket Beach.  Considered to be one of the finest in New England, the beach is more than a mile in length along the eastern coast of Hull and the Nantasket Beach Reservation is twenty-six acres and includes the fantastic Paragon Carousel.  The sight of this eighty-two year old wonder will surely bring out the child in every adult.  It is open to be ridden beginning in April.

            A hidden gem can be found in an unlikely place.  In a quest to gain a higher vantage point to snap a few photos of Hull I came to Hull Cemetery which sits on Telegraph Hill.  I wanted an even higher shot and after climbing a concrete wall found myself face to face with the awe-inspiring Fort Revere.  Complete with a clear view of the Brewster Islands dotting Massachusetts Bay, this piece of American history can be passed by easily. 

            Fort Revere was built in 1776 and has a clear view from Boston Harbor south to Cohasset Harbor.  Straight out to the east sits the amazing Boston Lighthouse(above).  Located on Little Brewster Island, this current lighthouse was built in 1783 although the station itself was begun in 1716.  Even more amazing is the fact that the island station is shared by the lighthouse with five other houses each more than a hundred years old.  On a clear day the ‘younger’ Graves Lighthouse can be seen behind Boston Light.  Built in 1905, it is grey in color and is best seen by boat.

            Fort Revere(left) is only a maze of concrete tunnels and steps, much like my New Bedford trip this piece of history has been desecrated with graffiti by thoughtless people.  If you can get past that fact it is a great walk.  On the other side of Telegraph Hill sits an octagon-shaped water tower that doubles as an observation tower.  The observation deck is only accessible for a few hours on the first Saturday of the month, best to plan ahead for that.

            There is much more to the South Shore of Massachusetts than Plymouth.  The drive from Scituate up through Hull was one amazing sight after another.  There were some areas that felt like small Midwestern towns with the cozy shops lining the streets.  Then there were endless amounts of incredibly lavish homes each one worthy of a second and third look.  In the end the lighthouses and the walk around Fort Revere will be my lasting memories of this trip.  What will yours be?  Have fun and happy traveling!  

Directions: Old Scituate Light: From Rt. 3 north take Exit 12, merge onto Church Street heading toward Marshfield.  Turn left onto Old Oak St., and continue onto Union St for 3.3 miles.  Union St. becomes Bridge St., turn right onto Rt. 123 for 1.8 miles. Turn onto New Driftway at the rotary, this road becomes New Kent St., Kent St., and Front St. in that order.  Turn right at Jericho Rd. and continue onto light.

            Cohasset Sailing Club: From Rt. 3A north turn right onto Henry Turner Bailey Rd., turn left at County Way this becomes S. Main St., turn right onto Summer St. after 1.3 miles.  Follow with a slight right onto Border St., turn left at Government Island Rd. after a half mile.  The club is on the left. 

            Nantasket Beach: On Rt. 3A north turn right onto Rt. 228 North.  Continue onto Hull St. which becomes Nantasket Ave.  There are several beach parking lots on the right.

            Fort Revere: On Rt. 3A north turn right onto Rt. 228 North.  Continue onto Hull St. which becomes Nantasket Ave.  Take a left at Fitzpatrick Way which becomes Nantasket Ave. again.  After a mile take a sharp left at Farina Rd., continue onto Ft. Revere Park.

References:  Scituate Historical Society

                     Minot's Ledge Lighthouse

                     Paragon Carousel

                     Boston Light