In My Footsteps: Trip 130: Lincoln, New Hampshire

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 130:  Lincoln, New Hampshire

July 25, 2012

My love affair with the state of New Hampshire is very well known.  I feel as soon as I cross into it from Massachusetts that I am in an entirely different world.  That feeling was only amplified when I made a long overdue return to Lincoln in the White Mountains.

The view from Kancamagus Pass.

I say return because the last time I saw Lincoln was more than twenty years ago and I definitely did not have the understanding to appreciate what I was seeing.  This time I certainly did.

For this trip I decided to spend the night.  I found the perfect location to call my ‘home base’ in Pemi Cabins on the main strip of Route 3.  The Pemigewasset River, where the ‘Pemi’ in Pemi Cabins comes from, runs directly behind the cabins.  When I opened the door to my modest single-room cabin I immediately heard the rushing water through the opened back door.  Each cabin has a screened in back porch.  I took advantage of this by sitting out and listening to the rushing water well after dark.  It was heavenly.

The first place I chose to visit was the simply awe-inspiring Kancamagus Pass on the historic Kancamagus Highway.  My goal was to run a section of the highway beginning at the Pass.  Besides being situated in between Lincoln and North Conway ‘The Kanc’ as it is often called for the vast majority of the route is devoid of food, gas, and cell phone reception.  I was taking a risk running there but it was well worth it.

Flapjack's Pancake House

The views of the White Mountains are all around you.  The overlook at Kancamagus Pass can easily hold your gaze for hours if you let it.  I ran straight downhill until I got to the cozy Lily Pond.  The rocky shore was more reminiscent of Maine, the pond itself was small but fit the scene with the towering mountains all around.

Once I had turned around and run the more difficult uphill slope back to the Pass I stopped to appreciate the views at a pair of overlooks.  The fact that it was cloudy did not dampen the experience at all.  I only saw roughly 1/3 of The Kanc so any visitor should take their time to see as much of this incredible highway as possible.

Looking back down at Flume Gorge.

Next I went back to a spot originally visited more than twenty years ago, Flume Gorge in Franconia Notch State Park.  Located only a few minutes down Rt. 3 the Flume is something that everyone should check out once.  Flume Gorge is a natural gorge which extends 800 feet at the base of Mt. Liberty.  It was discovered in 1808 by 93-year old ‘Aunt’ Jess Guernsey who came upon it accidentally.

You can take a tour bus from the main visitor’s center out close to the gorge or you can walk the entire way.  I chose to walk.  There is a lot more to see in the Flume Woods than just the Gorge but that is the obvious main attraction.  It feels like being in another world as you come upon the pair of granite cliffs stretching up to ninety-feet high.  The walls are anywhere from twelve to twenty feet apart and the water which runs down either cliff will periodically splash you.

It is an exhilarating hike along the wooden walkway with many steps leading you up to the overlook where you can see down into the gorge.  After that you can choose to head straight back to the visitor’s center or take a longer route.  I took the longer route.  On the longer route you will see the smaller Liberty Gorge, Sentinel Pine Bridge and The Pool, as well as the Wolf’s Den which you must crawl through to see.  I highly recommend taking the extra thirty minutes or so to hike the longer trail out of Flume Woods.

Another part of Franconia Notch State Park which is probably better known that Flume Gorge actually does not exist anymore.  The Old Man of the Mountain, a face shaped by erosion in the granite of Cannon Mountain, crashed to the earth in 2003.  I do remember visiting this spot as a child.  I was pleasantly surprised when I returned to find that the Old Man was back, so to speak.

Thanks to some generous grants and very creative thinking there is now a Profiler Plaza at the base of Cannon Mountain.  There are several steel ‘profilers’ which when you stand on spots according to height actually create a faux Old Man face in the spot where it would have been.  It is difficult to explain, it needs to be seen to be appreciated.  In fact the entire Profiler Plaza is amazing.  Profile Lake stretches toward the highway with the mountains just on the other side, the fog and mist of this day combined with the scenery made me feel as if I was in the film Jurassic Park, if that makes any sense.

With the help of a 'profiler' The Old Man lives again.

Lincoln is not just filled with beautiful places to see.  There is also an abundance of delicious places to eat.  Loving breakfast the way I do I chose to pay a visit to Flapjacks located at the beginning of the Kancamagus Highway.  By the name it is obvious what they are known for.

Now in their seventh year of operation the atmosphere is very cozy inside Flapjacks with a small counter and many tables facing the mountains.  I could tell right away that this is a townie place where folks get together daily to chat about life.  I enjoyed the atmosphere almost as much as I enjoyed a full-stack of their well known flapjacks.  I went with the regular flapjacks, but there are some interesting and I’m sure delicious options such as Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup and Fluffernutter flapjacks.  Those two items alone are reason enough for me to pay Lincoln another visit soon.

Nestled up in the White Mountains the small town of Lincoln should be a destination for any traveler.  Whether you like delicious food in townie restaurants, beautiful scenery, or simply want to escape into some peace and quiet, Lincoln has all that you need.  I know I will be going back that way as soon as I can.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Kancamagus Pass:  From I-93 N take Exit 32 for Rt. 112/Kancamagus Highway.  Turn left onto Kancamagus Highway, follow it 13.3 miles to destination on left.

            Flume Gorge:  From I-93 N take Exit 34A to merge onto Rt. 3, follow it ½ mile, turn right for Visitor’s Center.

            Flapjacks Pancake House:  From I-93 N take Exit 32 for Rt. 112/Kancamagus Highway.  Turn left onto Kancamagus Highway, follow it .7 miles to destination on left.

            Pemi Cabins:  From I-93 N take Exit 33 for N. Woodstock/N. Lincoln, take a slight right, continue ½ mile to destination on right.

References:  Pemi Cabins

            Flapjacks Pancake House

            Kancamagus Highway.com

            NH State Parks.org - Flume Gorge

            Lincoln, NH - Official Town Site      

Lincoln on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 129: Wareham, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 129: Wareham, Massachusetts

June 14, 2012

            Though it is technically not considered a part of Cape Cod, Wareham shares many of the same qualities of a classic Cape village.  Wareham is considered the ‘Gateway to Cape Cod’ as the first town west of the Cape Cod Canal.  It was obviously once part of the Cape before the Canal was constructed. 

Tremont Nail Factory Building

            Wareham shares its name with a town in England and was originally settled as a part of the surrounding towns of Rochester and Plymouth in 1678.  Incorporated in 1739, the town mixes beautiful beaches and historic buildings with a highly developed retail center filled with stores and restaurants.  Perhaps most well known in Wareham is the Tremont Nail Factory which is the oldest manufacturer of nails in the country, established in 1819.  The Old Company Store across the street from the factory is a popular spot as well.  It is an old time gift shop with penny candy and gourmet foods as well. 

Old Company Store

            Located a few doors down from the Tremont Nail Factory is another well known spot.  The Benjamin Fearing Tavern Museum was originally the home of Isaac Bump, a local miller, when it was first built in 1690.  It became the tavern in 1747.  Besides being one of the oldest homes in Wareham it has also been the site of possible paranormal activity.  In 2008 researchers from a local show Spooky Southcoast conducting hours of tests in the old tavern.  Though the results were somewhat inconclusive it definitely will make any visitor keep their eyes and ears opened.

            If you take Route 6 west into Wareham it does not take long to find a beautiful scenic spot.  A right turn onto Red Brook Road leads you to Buttermilk Bay and the adjoining Little Buttermilk Bay.  These bodies of water are great for fishing and the Bourne Bridge hovers above the tree line which gives perspective as to how close spots like these are to major highways.  Route 6 continues west and crosses the Agawam River before hitting the retail center of Wareham.  This river has been one of the most important herring rivers in the state since 1632 and is one of the few remaining operated herring runs left in Massachusetts.

Fearing Tavern Museum

            The Wareham Town Hall is located near the retail center as Route 6 becomes also known as Marion Road.  It stands in front of the middle school and across the street from the Wareham Free Library.  It looks the part of an old government building in amongst the modern retail stores.  There is also a really nice railroad station located behind Main Street and along the Agawam River.  There is still freight rail service in Wareham but at this time no passenger service.  Of course for families coming to visit there must be a stop at Water Wizz, the popular water park located near the Cranberry Shopping Plaza on Rt. 6.

            Much like Cape Cod, Wareham has its share of smaller villages that make up the bigger town.  One such village is Weweantic.  A left turn from Rt. 6 onto Cromesett Rd. will take you out onto this tiny peninsula that sticks out into Buzzards Bay.  Bordered on the east by Marks Cove and on the west by Pattons Cove and Briarwood Beach, Weweantic is a great little detour off of the main road and sports tremendous views from all sides.

Buttermilk Bay with the Bourne Bridge on the right.

            Another beautiful spot is a little harder to get to if it is to be fully appreciated.  Stony Point Dike is a man made strip of land that stretches out a mile into Buzzards Bay.  It is what was created by the dredging of the Cape Cod Canal.  It is located at the end of Great Neck Road but can be seen on the horizon from Little Harbor Beach.  For kayaking lovers it is a perfect trip, just over a mile, from the beach to Stony Point.  It should be noted that swimming and paddling on the Canal side of Stony Point is prohibited and dangerous.

Wareham gives you all that you could want in a seaside town.  There are beautiful beaches, historic buildings with fascinating stories, and there are also plenty of shopping areas for those that are not as into nature and history as I am.  These spots are so close to the Cape but can at times be overlooked by people on the way to New Bedford or Providence.  I highly recommend taking a day trip to discover Wareham.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Buttermilk Bay: From Rt. 6 heading west, turn right onto Red Brook Rd., continue onto Head of the Bay Rd.  Turn right onto Old Head of the Bay Rd.  This gives you the best view of Little Buttermilk Bay and Buttermilk Bay through Gibbs Narrows.

Tremont Nail Company: from Rt. 28 heading west turn left at Mayflower Ridge Dr., then quick right at Elm Street.  Old Company Store is directly across the street.  

References:    Tremont Nail Company

                       Water Wizz

                       Wareham Historical Society

                       Wareham - Official Town Page

                       Wicked Local.com - Something to Fear at the Fearing Tavern?

       

Wareham on Dwellable

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In My Footsteps: Trip 128: Salisbury, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 128:  Salisbury, Massachusetts

November 9, 2011

            This is the final stop on Massachusetts’ North Shore.  Salisbury is a popular summer resort town with a very well known beach.  Originally called 'Colchester,' the town of Salisbury was deeded to Secretary of the Massachusetts Bay Colony Simon Bradstreet on September 6, 1638 by Governor John Winthrop.  The land grant actually included a larger area encompassing the modern towns of Amesbury, Massachusetts and the towns of Seabrook, and South Hampton, New Hampshire among others.

March's Ordinary on Ring's Island

            Part of the charm of Salisbury can be found immediately upon entering the town on Route 1 over the Merrimack River from Newburyport.  A quick right turn will lead you to Rings Island, an historic fishing village.  The land that encompasses Ring Island was granted to Robert Ring of Salisbury on March 26, 1642.  It was two acres at the time and deeded to Ring on the condition that the land be used for fishing.

            Today Ring’s Island is filled with restored homes from hundreds of years ago as well as a beautiful view of Newburyport from the Salisbury Town Wharf.  The wharf houses a tremendous panoramic view stretching from the Rt. 1 bridge east to Plum Island.  Nearly straight ahead from where the wharf stretches out into the river one can easily see the diminutive Front Range Lighthouse along the shore with the tall, brick Rear Range Lighthouse a little further behind it.

Salisbury Parsonage at Minister's Corner c.1820

            One of the most historic homes I discovered on Ring’s Island is on 2^nd Street.  March’s ‘Ordinary’, or Inn, was built in 1690.  The home was built for John March who in 1687 was granted the right to begin a ferry from Newbury to Ring’s Island.  In exchange for a tavern license March agreed to pay half of the cost of the route from his ferry to the town.  The Inn was in continuous use for 137 years which was when the first bridge was built across the Merrimack River making a ferry obsolete.

            Almost directly across the street from March’s Ordinary is another home of interest.  This one also sports the name John March, Captain John March to be exact.  It is a plain white home built in 1752 it states by Capt. John March.  I believe this must be a son as the elder March would have had to be very old if alive at all when this home was erected.  I particularly enjoyed the latitude and longitude markings on the front of the house.  Ring’s Island is a small area and can easily be seen in an hour or less.

            The town of Salisbury however is most noted for Salisbury Beach State Park and the waterfront Salisbury Beach area.  It is here that the true feel of the town is on display.  The State Park includes 521 acres and a nearly four mile long beach leading to the mouth of the Merrimack River.  There are also 484 sites in the park’s camping area which are open for use from early-May through late November when it is only opened Thursday through Saturday night.

A fishing vessel entering the Merrimack River.

            There are a few large parking areas for the beach but these surely fill up during the summer as Salisbury Beach is one of the most popular beaches in the entire state of Massachusetts.  I chose to park in the lot closest to the river with the best view of Plum Island across the water.  From here it is a short walk to the shore.  As luck would have it a classic fishing vessel was entering the mouth of the river as I arrived.  I was able to get plenty of great photos as it slowly returned into the harbor.

            I walked along the river shore out to the beach and was amazed at the view of the Salisbury Beach amusement area stretching north to the New Hampshire border.  The beach was not overly crowded on this day but there were still a good amount of people walking or sitting in chairs as the North Shore waves crashed on the sand.  Whether spending an afternoon on the beach or a night camping it is definitely a worthwhile trip to the Salisbury Beach State Park.

The sand sculpture of Snoopy at Salisbury Beach.

            Besides the state park area Salisbury Beach also has a classic amusement area that brings up visions of the Coney Island in New York, minus the rollercoasters.  The area I enjoyed is where Beach Road travels toward the ocean and then loops around to become Broadway.  There is an island in between the two roads where many sand sculptures were located.  Though the ravages of the wind had eroded parts of some they had remained intact for the most part.  I particularly enjoyed the sculpture of Snoopy sleeping on his dog house although this was one that had been worn out by the ocean winds.

            Surrounding the sculptures are typical shoreline attractions like arcades and movie theaters.  Names like Joe’s Playland and Hobo’s Café make this stretch of Salisbury unique and very popular all year long.  I was glad to visit when I did however as I can only imagine how packed the beach and amusement area is during the summer.  I highly recommend checking out the final stop along Massachusetts’ North Shore.  Whether it’s summertime or anytime, Salisbury is absolutely worth the drive from anywhere, have fun and happy traveling!   

                       

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Ring’s Island:  From I-95N take Exit 56, take slight right onto Scotland Road.  Follow it 2 miles, continue onto Parker Street, after .4 miles turn right to stay on Parker Street.  Take 3^rd exit at rotary for Newburyport Turnpike, follow it 1.6 miles, take 1^st right over the bridge for 1^st Street.

            Salisbury Beach State Park:  From I-95 N take Exit 58A, take a slight right onto Rt. 110E.  Follow 2.1 miles, take left onto Bridge Road.  Take 2^nd right onto Beach Road, follow 1.9 miles, turn right onto State Beach Road.

References:  Salisbury, Ma. - Official Town Site

            Salisbury Beach.org

Onset on Dwellable

Salisbury on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 127: Amesbury, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 127:  Amesbury, Massachusetts

November 9, 2011

            Though it is a part of the North Shore the town of Amesbury gives a different view than one is used to.  For one it is not situated along the coast so there are no ocean beaches to speak of.  However for me the hills, winding roads, lakes, and on this trip the foliage, more than make up for the fact that there is no rocky shore to gaze upon.

Lake Gardner

            I began my time in Amesbury with a beach of sorts.  The beach is located at Lake Gardner.  The very first thing I noticed upon arrival was the constant rush of water coming from a dam on the Powow River.  It is just to the left of the beach and is what created the lake back in 1872.

            The lake in general was very calm making a nearly perfect mirror image of the houses across the water.  The beach is relatively small but there is an added bonus.  A short walk will lead you to the Stagecoach Trail Boardwalk.  This trail is part of the hundred acre Powow River Conservation Area along the eastern side of the lake.  Lake Gardner, the dam, and the trails are just the beginning of the sites to see in Amesbury.

Mill #1 on the Powow Riverwalk

            The Powow River flows down from Lake Gardner and there is a beautiful riverwalk area located just off of Friend Street.  The spot where I stopped is near the town hall.  In that area there is another dam where the water rushes by; the ducks and geese were hanging out and being fed by a mother and her young daughter.  From where the walk crosses over the river there is a great view of an old stone arched bridge on Pond Street.  It was built sometime before 1884 to increase accessibility to the Millyard.  On the right side of the river is Mill #1 built in 1855.

            After the walk along the Powow River there was a pair of historic buildings on my itinerary.  First off was the Rocky Hill Meeting House on Old Portsmouth Road.  It is just what the name says, an old meeting house.  Built in 1785 this white building is virtually the same as it was when it originally opened.  It was constructed to serve the west parish of Salisbury.  The major claim to fame of Rocky Hill is the fact that George Washington stopped and greeted people here on his journey north in 1789.  The pews inside are unchanged and actually have graffiti dating back over two hundred years scrawled on them.

Macy-Colby House

            Next I checked out the oldest house in Amesbury, the Macy-Colby House.  According to the plaque outside the house it was erected before 1654 by the first Town Clerk, Thomas Macy.  After seeing many 17^th century homes during my trips around New England I am now finding that I can recognize the architecture of these dwellings.  Macy was ostracized from the town a few years later for harboring Quakers which was a criminal offense.  He fled to Nantucket and became the first white settler on the island.  This was depicted in John Greenleaf Whittier’s 1826 poem The Exile’s Departure.

            In my travels I enjoy finding the hard to find.  This was the case with my last destination, the Old Powder House.  This is a little deceiving as it is not a house at all.  The ‘powder house’ is actually a bullet-shaped white structure.  It was built in 1810 and used to store arms and ammunition during the War of 1812.  The reason it was hard to find was partially my own fault as I missed the sign for it along Madison Street.  I knew it was located in the woods and took to wandering around said woods for a bit before giving up.  It was on my way back that I spotted the sign next to a set of stairs leading up a hill.

The Old Powder House

            Although it is covered with trees there were still a few breaks in between where I could see the surrounding area from atop the hill.  During the warmer months when the trees are in bloom it is probably impossible to see anything.  The Powder House has been preserved thanks to the Amesbury Improvement Association.

            Although not the typical North Shore town due to its proximity away from the shore Amesbury still retains that special feel that all the places in this area have.  The view at Lake Gardner is incredible.  There are some amazing historical buildings and homes that remind you of how life used to be hundreds of years ago.  The Old Powder House is a cool find if you don’t mind a little search and walk.  It may not have the rocky shores but Amesbury is a town that every traveler should pay a visit to.  Have fun and happy traveling! 

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!

Directions:  Lake Gardner:  From I-95 N take Exit 58B for Rt. 110W.  Follow it .5 miles, turn right onto Elm Street, follow 1.7 miles, take 2^nd exit at rotary for High Street.  Follow it .3 miles, turn right for the lake parking lot.

            Old Powder House:  From I-95 N take Exit 58B for Rt. 110W.  Follow it .5 miles, turn right onto Elm Street, follow it .6 miles.  Turn right onto Amidon Avenue, continue across Monroe St. to Madison St.  The sign for the Powder House will be on the right next to some stairs.

References:  Lake Gardner Improvement Association

            Amesbury City.com

            Lowell's Boat Shop.com