In My Footsteps: Trip 123: Rye, New Hampshire

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 123:  Rye, New Hampshire

May 25, 2011

            The very first settlement in New Hampshire the small town of Rye has a history going back nearly 400 years.  It is also known for its beaches, one of only a few New Hampshire towns known as such due to the tiny eighteen miles of coastline the state has.

            The most famous of all of the beaches is of course Rye Beach located on New Hampshire’s shore hugging Rt. 1A.  In addition to being the most well known of the beaches Rye Beach is also a village with its own zip code; it is a very desirable place to live and visit.

Wallis Sands State Beach

            Rye Beach is the most well known of the sandy spots in this town but Wallis Sands State Beach is another area that features just as many beautiful views.  The beach is not too large but gets crowded with people choosing it or those who are the spillover from the even more crowded Rye Beach.  The best part of this spot is the tremendous view of the Isles of Shoals just off shore.  They sit six miles off shore and lie between the border of New Hampshire and Maine; a clear day will give the best views.  Still, even if the islands are not visible Wallis Sands State Beach is a great spot to start a trip in Rye.

Rye Harbor

            Continuing with the state park theme of Rye there is Rye Harbor State Park which continues the seemingly endless stream of beautiful scenery.  The views here include the Isles of Shoals and Rye Harbor which is filled with boats during the summer.  The park is open pretty much from Memorial Day to Labor Day and the rocky shore coupled with the rolling waves makes it easy to lose yourself in the moment here.

            Perhaps the most historic spot in all of Rye, and maybe the state of New Hampshire lies at Odiorne Point State Park.  It is here that the first settlers of New Hampshire arrived in 1623.  The park and point are named for the Odiorne family who arrived in the 1660’s.  There is a marker on a hill overlooking the water which is supposedly the spot where the first settlers arrived.

Parsons Homestead

            Some of the history in Rye is apparent and obvious like Odiorne Point State Park, but then there is some that you have to go and find like the Parsons Homestead.  Located on Washington Street this salmon colored home was once lived in by the Parsons Family, one of the original families to settle Rye.  Built in 1757 the home’s unique color makes it stand out as does the open plot of land next to it.  There is a lush green field to the right of the Parsons Homestead which was set off thanks to the efforts of 161 local families in 1978 to be used by the town.

Public Library

            A visit to the Rye Historical Society will give you a better understanding of the importance of places such as the Parsons Homestead as well as Odiorne Point State Park.  It is located in the Mildred Wilson Antique Shop built in 1930 on Olde Parish Rd.  It is not a very old building to house an historical society considering some of the other ones that I have seen in my travels but it fits just as well.  It is in the same parking lot as the public library which is a beautiful building and just celebrated its centennial in September 2011.  It is a peaceful sort of place, a perfect spot to end my time in Rye.

            Well known for its beautiful beaches, and rightfully so, there is a lot more to see in Rye than just the sun and the sand.  If that is all one chooses to see however that is still a great trip.  Still take some time to visit Odiorne Point State Park to get a taste of New Hampshire’s history before going off to Rye Beach and Wallis Sands State Beach if you can.  Have fun and happy traveling!

            For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!

Directions:  Rye Beach:  From I-93 N take Exit 27 to merge onto Rt. 1, merge onto I-95 N, take Exit 1 once into NH for Rt. 107, after 8 miles turn left onto Rt. 1 N, slight right onto North Rd. which will then become South Rd.  Follow 2.6 miles, Rye Beach is straight ahead.

            Odiorne Point State Park:  From I-93 N take Exit 27 to merge onto Rt. 1, merge onto I-95 N, once into NH take Exit 3 for Rt. 33, continue straight, turn right onto Rt. 33 E, follow 1 mile, turn right onto Peverly Hill Rd.  Continue onto Elwyn Rd., at rotary take 2^nd exit for Rt. 1A, follow 1.4 miles, parking is on left.

References:  Rye Beach Info.com

            Rye, NH - Official Town Site

            Rye, NH Historical Society.org

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In My Footsteps: Trip 122: Portsmouth, New Hampshire

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 122:  Portsmouth, New Hampshire

May 25, 2011

            There are some cities and towns that I have visited where I have had to look hard to find beautiful and historic places and things.  Then there are others that practically scream history from the moment I arrive; Portsmouth, New Hampshire is one such place.  For me it seems like the moment I cross the border into New Hampshire it is like stepping into an entirely different world.  On this day it went from being cloudy and gray in Massachusetts to immediately sunny when I entered New Hampshire.  The rolling green hills I saw once I got off the highway in Exeter made me realize this was going to be a really fun day.

The Memorial Bridge leading to Badger Island.

            Upon entering historic Portsmouth the first spot I headed for was an old brick building called the Warner House which was originally built in 1716.  It is the oldest brick mansion in New England but it was also being worked on at the time.  This meant that standing and staring at it was a little pointless.  However, since I had paid the parking meter I had ample time to walk around Daniel St. which is really close to the Piscataqua River.  It is here that the Memorial Bridge leads drivers out to Badger Island in Kittery, Maine.  I found it really cool that Maine was so nearby.

            The next place I visited blew me away, and I must confess that it was not even on my agenda during my trip.  I happened upon Prescott Park, named for long-time resident Josie Prescott, while parking my car across the street from the Strawberry Banke Museum.  The museum was put on hold once I saw what lay at the end of a brick walkway.

Prescott Park

            I could hear the splashing of water and walked in on a simply stunning garden scene.  It reminded me immediately of the rose garden at Lynch Park in Beverly, Massachusetts.  That was one of my favorite places I had been to so experiencing a bit of déjà vu at Prescott Park was most welcomed. 

            It was such a beautiful and relaxing spot that I hardly knew where to start taking photos.  I made my way around the small rectangular garden lined with trees and round brick water fountains wanting to stay there as long as I could.  This area known as the ‘formal garden’ has been said to give the feeling of a ‘park within a park’ and that is true; it is like its own world.  I walked around this area some more and then ventured out into the rest of Prescott Park which overlooks the Piscataqua River.  There are also art shows and concerts on the grass at Prescott Park during the summer months where many well known artists and musicians come to play.  I recommend taking a lot of time here to enjoy the scenery.

Entrance to Fort Constitution

            Once I was done falling in love with Prescott Park I went to find another of my favorite things, a lighthouse.  I actually found two.  Portsmouth Harbor Light is located on the ground of the Coast Guard station but can be seen from the neighboring Fort Constitution.  This ‘setback’ actually made it even more fun as I got to visit another historical spot while viewing the lighthouse.

            Fort Constitution was originally known as Fort William and Mary until the land was given to the United States by New Hampshire in 1791.  It was repaired and renamed.  I found it neat that in order to get to the fort grounds you must go through the Coast Guard area.  To accomplish this there is a blue line that you must walk to get there, anything else is off limits to civilians.

            Portsmouth Harbor Light is one of the oldest stations in the country.  Established in 1771 it was the tenth of eleven lighthouse stations built prior to the American Revolution.  That one was wooden; the current lighthouse was erected in 1878.  There are plenty of views of this lighthouse though the walls and buildings of the Coast Guard station block a clear shot for photography.  That did not deter me as I found a way, a dangerous way, to get a clear shot.

Portsmouth Harbor Light with Whaleback Light on the left.

            It just so happens that you can get an unobstructed view of Portsmouth Harbor Light by hanging out of one of the small windows of Fort Constitution which sit at ground level.  The problem is that there is nothing to hang onto and it is a nearly twenty foot drop to the rocks below.  This is why I would never suggest any traveler attempt the same; just enjoy the safer view with the buildings and wall in the way.

            Located to the left of Portsmouth Harbor Light from Fort Constitution is Whaleback Lighthouse which sits across the border in Kittery, Maine.  I got a second look at this far off lighthouse when I visited Fort Stark located south of Fort Constitution.  It is one of seven forts that were built to protect Portsmouth.  Fort Stark was built in the time between 1890-1920 however no shots were ever fired in anger from this site.  I got a cool sneak peak inside the Battery Hays building since one of the three sets of metal doors was opened.  There was nothing of consequence inside but it was still neat to see inside.

Battery Hays building at Fort Stark

            From atop the Battery Hays building I was able to get a great view of the boats sitting in the marina near the Wentworth By the Sea Hotel & Spa, one of the last remaining Gilded Age hotels.  The ‘Gilded Age’ being the time of the late-19^th century.  When I turned around I got another view of the previously mentioned Whaleback Lighthouse, it was a magnificent area but then again everything I saw in Portsmouth was magnificent.

            As soon as you enter the borders of Portsmouth you know you have arrived somewhere special.  A simple walk along the historic streets near the Piscataqua River will give you the feel while visiting Fort Constitution and Fort Stark make the historical significance quite apparent.  Of course stopping to relax and maybe enjoy lunch at Prescott Park might be my favorite way to enjoy Portsmouth, but everyone can decide for themselves.  Have fun and happy traveling!

   My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!  For more In My Footsteps items follow the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Prescott Park:  From I-95 N take Exit 3 for Rt. 33; turn right, follow 1.8 mi., continue onto Middle St., follow .8 mi., turn right onto State St.  Turn right onto Atkinson St., take 1^st left onto Court St., turn right onto Marcy St.  Park will be on the left.

            Portsmouth Harbor Light:  From I-95 N take Exit 3 for Rt. 33; turn right, follow 1.8 mi., continue onto Middle St., follow .8 mi., turn right onto State St.  Turn right onto Pleasant St., continue onto Marcy St.  Slight left onto NH 1-B South, follow 2 mi., turn left onto Wentworth Rd., slight right onto Sullivan Ln.

            Fort Stark:  From I-95 N take Exit 3 for Rt. 33; turn right, follow 1.8 mi., continue onto Middle St., follow .6 mi., turn right onto Miller Ave., continue onto Sagamore Ave.  Turn left onto NH 1-B, follow 1.8 mi., turn right onto Wild Rose Ln., follow to the fort. 

References:  Warner House.org

            Prescott Park.org

            City of Portsmouth.com

            Portsmouth Historical Society

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In My Footsteps: Trip 121: Wellesley, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 121:  Wellesley, Massachusetts

April 14, 2011

Morses Pond

            One of the most affluent and highly educated towns in the United States, Wellesley might seem to get lost in the shuffle as far as places to see and visit.  That could not be further from the truth as it has many amazing spots that anybody can check out, even if you are not rich.  I will admit that there are seemingly endless streams of lavish homes up and down nearly every street in Wellesley but if you go just below the surface you will find the true soul of this town.

            One such spot I enjoyed was Morses Pond on Turner Road.  Of course when I arrived the gate was closed so driving right up to the edge of the water was not possible.  Still, taking a walk on a warm spring afternoon was not the worst thing in the world.  I chose to stay on the paved road as I walked although there was an intriguing path which led off to the right.  I could not be certain that it led to the pond and did not feel like going way off track so I played it safe.

Wellesley Town Hall

            The pond was a nice scenic spot, there was a narrow land bridge between a small pond and Morses Pond which was cool.  There is a playground area for families but the highlights of my walk to the pond were the little finger of land sticking out into the water with a picnic table at the end as well as a swan that seemed to be unhappy that I was walking by.  The swan got really close to shore and basically kept me from checking out the picnic table at the end of the finger of land.  It was still a great walk and would be worthwhile to any traveler especially if the gates are open.

            Wellesley is also unique in the fact that its Town Hall is as impressive as many historic mansions I have seen.  It reminded me of the beautiful stone buildings I saw in Easton and Fairhaven; the buildings in Easton designed by renowned architect Henry Hobson Richardson.  It was such a cool place with many great photo opportunities from the sloping front lawn of the Town Hall.  A little added bonus is Morton Park which is part of the Town Hall grounds.

Charles River behind the old Eaton-Moulton Mill building.

            I parked at the bottom of the hill where the Town Hall building is located which is right next to a small duck pond at Morton Park.  There are some trails there, one called the Crosstown Trail is about five and a half miles long and goes through Morton Park following the Cochituate Aqueduct.  It continues on until it intersects with the Charles River Path.  I did not follow the trail but did have a good time checking out the ducks waddling around the shore of the pond. 

            I found a cool spot while checking out the building which once housed the Eaton-Moulton Mill on Walnut Street.  The building, built in 1853, is a pretty standard gray stone-faced structure but behind it is what caught my eye.  The sound of rushing water lured me back to a falls area of the Charles River that passed under a footbridge.  There was a walkway which ran along the side of the loud rushing water so close that I was getting splashed.  It is easy to get lost in the rhythmic sound of the nonstop water passing by and if you have the time it is nice to allow yourself to do just that for a bit.

Sprague Memorial Tower

            The last place I visited in Wellesley is a spot I saw on a previous trip as I passed through much like when I saw downtown Natick.  The Sprague Memorial Tower is easy to spot as you travel along Washington Street.  The tower was built in 1928 but the clock and bell which reside inside were given to the town in 1874.  The surrounding area is pretty busy but it seems like when you step onto the grounds where the tower sits that it is in its own world.  The only trouble was that the green around the tower was small which meant that trying to get a photo of the entire height of the tower was difficult.  I found myself bending and kneeling all over trying to fit it in.

            Though it may be one of the most affluent and well educated towns in all of the country Wellesley has so much more for the average person such as me.  Morses Pond was amazing even with its long walk and Sprague Memorial Tower was a spot I knew I needed to see from the time I passed through Wellesley heading home from a previous trip.  Of course there are seemingly endless streams of large expensive homes to see as well but that should not be the only thing that a traveler takes from Wellesley.  Have fun and happy traveling!

            For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Morses Pond:  From Rt. 3 take Exit 20A for I-93S toward I-95, continue onto Rt. 1 S, continue onto I-95 N.  Take Exit 17, turn right onto Rt. 135 W., follow 2 miles take slight left at Great Plain Ave., at rotary take 3^rd exit onto Wellesley Ave.  Follow half mile, turn left onto Washington St., continue onto Central St., slight right onto Weston Rd.  Take 1^st left onto Turner Rd., follow to the pond, where you park depends on whether the gates are opened.

            Sprague Memorial Tower:  From Rt. 3 take Exit 20A for I-93S toward I-95, continue onto Rt. 1 S, continue onto I-95 N.  Take Exit 21, turn left onto Washington St., follow 1.8 miles, tower is on the right.

References:  Wellesley - Official Town Site

            Wellesley Historical Society.org