In My Footsteps: Cadillac Mountain, Acadia National Park

            Acadia National Park is a place made up of dozens of beautiful natural locations each worthy of its own article.  I spent a day there and only scratched the surface of what there was to see.  If at all possible one should set aside several days to truly experience this wonderful area.  If that is not feasible there is one spot that must be placed at the top of any visitor’s list: Cadillac Mountain.

            The summit is 1,528 feet making it the highest point within 25 miles of the water along the U.S. East Coast.  Needless to say the views from the summit are some of the most incredible you will find in New England and perhaps the country. 

            Originally called Green Mountain it was renamed in 1918 after French explorer Antoine Laumet de La Mothe, sieur de Cadillac.  He was given the parcel of land consisting of Mount Desert Island in Maine when the area was known as New France.

            My time at Acadia was planned around making it to the summit of Cadillac Mountain to watch the sunset.  I had stayed a week in Maine in October and this particular day was warmest, nearly 70 degrees.  It must have slipped my mind that I was driving up a mountain and it might be cooler up there.

            The 3 ½ mile long summit road is beautiful but also slightly dangerous.  There are several points along the steep incline where the only things between your vehicle and a sharp drop are well placed boulders.  As much as I enjoyed taking a gander down toward the nearby town of Bar Harbor I knew that it would be much smarter for me to keep my eyes on the road.

            Though technically not the summit I stopped and parked at the Blue Hill Overlook very near the top.  The first thing I noticed was just how many other people had the same idea as me to go watch the sunset.  The overlook is magnificent.  It is a gently sloping smooth rockface.  Obviously being up as high as it is there is nothing blocking the view of the surroundings, and what a view it is.

            There were many people scattered along the rockface, some sitting on chairs, others on blankets.  Many more people were standing at the edge of the parking lot with cameras and binoculars.  The next thing I noticed after the people was the cold.  It had been in the upper-60’s during the day at ground level, it was about 30 degrees on top of Cadillac Mountain.  I was not fully prepared; my hands were freezing cold pretty quickly.  

            To keep my mind off of the cold I focused on the vast expanse of scenery in all directions.  To my right was Bar Harbor where I had spent the earlier part of the day.  I started taking photos of everything.  In a neat twist I kept trying to line up the horizon on my camera, to keep it straight.  It wouldn’t happen since at that height I could actually make out the curve of the Earth.  That was just another small part of a remarkable sunset.

            I was lucky as well that it ended up being a partly cloudy evening, perfect for catching colors.  It would have been a shame to scale the mountain only for the weather to get cloudy.  It’s not as if I could simply drive up there again night after night, this was a one shot deal. 

            It ended up being a nearly perfect sunset, complete with lots of photos and a video.  I stayed for a while after the sun went down to enjoy the view of Bar Harbor’s lights and the unlimited number of stars overhead.  I would have stayed longer but it was getting colder.  I cannot recommend spending an evening watching the sunset atop Cadillac Mountain.  Of course, weather determines just what you will see.  Plan accordingly, but prepare to be dazzled, it is worth the trip in almost any conditions.  Have fun and happy traveling.

In My Footsteps - Acadia National Park

Cadillac Mountain, Acadia National Park:  Cadillac Mountain Summit Road – Take I-295 N to Exit 49, turn right onto Rt. 201 N.  Follow 4.4 miles, turn left onto Brunswick Ave, continue onto Rt. 9 E, after ½ mile turn left to stay onto Rt. 9 E.  Follow to traffic circle, continue straight onto Bangor Street, .6 miles turn right onto N Belfast Ave.  After a mile turn right onto Rt. 3 E, follow it 100 miles into Bar Harbor.  Turn right onto Eagle Lake Rd, follow a mile turn right onto Paradise Hill Rd., take 1^st left to stay on road.  Turn left onto Park Loop Rd., follow it a mile, turn left onto the mountain road.

Acadia Magic.com - Cadillac Mountain

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In My Footsteps: Trip 92: Acadia National Park

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 92:  Acadia National Park

October 4, 2010

            There are many places that I have been to during my traveling time that have blown me away.  However, there was a place that had been on my radar as a must-see destination ever since I was in high school.  That place was Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island, Maine.  From the moment I began to become interested in photography I had chosen Ansel Adams as the photographer I would most like to emulate.  I saw his photos from Schoodic Point in 1949 at Acadia and hoped that someday I could make the trip to see these same natural wonders.  Never in my wildest dreams could I have imagined how life-changing this trip would be.

Sand Beach

            Acadia began to be preserved originally thanks to major contributions from local citizen George B. Dorr during the late 1800’s to early 1900’s.  It was his vision to keep the naturally beauty of Mount Desert Island safe for future generations.  The park was first called the Sieur de Monts National Memorial in 1916 because of the house that Mr. Dorr built near the Sieur de Monts Spring in 1909.  It was then known as Lafayette National Park in 1919 before the name Acadia National Park was given to the area in 1929.

With more than 47,000 acres of preserved land it is impossible to see all that Acadia has to offer in one day, possibly even a week, but I tried my best to see a few spots that were circled on my map.  For novices such as myself the best way to see as much of Acadia in as short of time as most people have is to take a drive on the Park Loop Road.

Some folks getting splashed at the Thunder Hole.

The twenty-seven mile loop begins near the Hulls Cove Visitor’s Center and there is a fee to enter but I promise you that once you are inside any amount paid will have been worth it.  The views along the road are simply amazing from the moment you enter the park.  The people who designed the road knew this fact and have designated the right lane as a parking lane as well.  I made quick use of this by stopping and parking over and over just to get out and stare at the ocean and rocky shores.  In a bit of irony the design of the Park Loop Road was the brainchild of famed architect Frederick Law Olmstead Jr. who I previously had discovered as the designer of the unique Rockery in Easton, Massachusetts.

A couple overlooking Otter Cove.

Not far from the entrance to the Park Loop Road is the first spot that I visited: Sand Beach.  There is a stairway to get down to the shore from the parking area and the instant I caught sight of the beach I knew it was going to be extraordinary.  The beach is rather small as it is nestled between rocky cliffs, and the water rarely gets above fifty-five degrees.  Those two things are part of what makes this place amazing.  The waves crash on the shore and weave their way through the outcropping of rocks which line the right side of the beach, I was mesmerized by the sound.  There is a hiking trail called the Great Head Trail for the land formation that it encompasses.  From Great Head there is an amazing view of a spot known as the ‘Beehive.’  This 520-foot mountain is very popular with hikers as it is not nearly as difficult to navigate as Cadillac Mountain.  As I said before though, it is nearly impossible to get to see everything at Acadia in one day and so the Beehive is a spot that will remain for another day.

Waiting for the sunset at Blue Hill Overlook.

The next place along the Park Loop Road that will blow your mind is the very famous Thunder Hole.  This is a small inlet with a cavern formed naturally in the rocks.  When the waves start flowing in they dive into this cavern which forces the air out and in short makes a sound like a roar of thunder.  The waves can shoot as high as forty feet into the air.  I witnessed for myself as a group of people standing at the railing overlooking Thunder Hole were splashed with one of these waves.  After a while it becomes a sort of game to see when the next loud crashing wave will hit, or when the next wave will spray high enough into the air to soak onlookers.  I had to dive out of the way of one rogue wave but was lucky enough to escape this spot virtually dry.  I could have stayed and listened to the sounds of thunder forever but there was a spot I had been waiting to see for many years and I needed to get there before dark.

At 1,532 feet Cadillac Mountain is the highest point within twenty-five miles of the east coast of the United States.  From October to March it is the first spot to see the sunrise as well.  My ultimate goal was to get to watch the sunset from the summit of this incredible pink granite mountain.  It is a longer drive than I thought getting around the Park Loop Road to the Cadillac Mountain access road.  I feared not making it in time to see the sunset. 

The sunset from atop Cadillac Mountain.

The drive on this road was fabulous as well.  At some points the only thing separating your vehicle from the edge of the cliffs are a few well placed rocks.  There were several turn off points that would have been fine for watching the sunset if it had come down to that but luckily for me I made it to the Blue Hill Overlook which is the best spot for viewing the sunset.  There were already about forty people there, cameras out and waiting as the sun slowly crept down toward the horizon. 

It was as cold as I had been during my entire trip to Maine but I would not have traded that experience for anything.  The sunset was spectacular; I have never seen anything like it.  There were hills and rivers all coated in a golden glow and I was even able to see the lights of Bar Harbor.  Even after the sun had gone and the colors had faded to gray I did not want to leave, I did not want the experience to end.  I can say this without a doubt, watching the sunset from the top of Cadillac Mountain was one of the highlights of my life.

I wish that everybody reading this could experience what I did on that night.  Acadia National Park was a place I had dreamed of visiting since I was in high school and after seeing it I can say that I cannot wait to go back again.  There was so much I missed but what I did see will stay with me for a lifetime.  Everybody needs to see this place at least once in their lives.  Have fun and happy traveling!

For a short video featuring the Thunder Hole and the sunset on top of Cadillac Mountain visit my YouTube channel here:  Acadia National Park.

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Start of Park Loop Road:  Take Rt. 3 south onto Mt. Desert Island.  Follow it into Bar Harbor, turn left at Mt. Desert St., turn right at Main St.  Turn left at Schooner Head Rd.  Follow it 2.5 miles, turn right toward Park Loop Rd.  Turn left, ranger station will be straight ahead, this is starting point.

References:  National Park Service - Acadia

            Acadia National Park.com

            Acadia Magic.com

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In My Footsteps: Trip 91: Mount Desert Island, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 91:  Mount Desert Island, Maine

October 4, 2010

            Although not a town I considered Mount Desert Island to be a wonderful place worth sharing.  It is the largest island off the coast of Maine and at 108 square miles it is the sixth largest island in the contiguous United States.  It is on Mount Desert Island where you find Bar Harbor and the one in a million Acadia National Park, however this article will attempt to showcase what else this place of natural beauty has to offer.

Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse

            I was amazed by the size of the island as I drove from Bar Harbor on the northeast side down to Bass Harbor which is on the southwest side.  It ended up being more than a half hour drive to get there but it was a great drive filled with incredible scenery.  My reason for visiting Bass Harbor was a chance to see the spectacular Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse.

            Built in 1858 this lighthouse sits on a rocky cliff with a view of Swans Island a few miles offshore.  It is only a short walk from the parking lot down to the Coast Guard Station where the lighthouse still is in operation.  The view of the lighthouse is great from the end of the paved walking path but I found a view that was a one in a million. 

            At the eastern end of the parking lot there is a path which leads you down to the rocks along the ocean shore.  The lighthouse can be seen from the edge of the rocks but I decided to venture out among the rocks to get a truly remarkable view of the lighthouse and the cliffs it stands on.  I do not recommend this for just anybody but if you are in fairly good shape I believe that this view of Bass Harbor Head Light is a can’t miss.

Pretty Marsh Harbor

            Heading back north on Mount Desert Island I stopped at Pretty Marsh and Pretty Marsh Harbor on the western side of the island.  Considered to be a part of Acadia National Park Pretty Marsh has a lot of great views, as most spots in Maine do.  I took a walk down to the picnic area which gives you a great view of the harbor.  The picnic tables are scattered among the trees with one spot having a roof over the table.  There is a steep path which leads to the water as well.  It is sort of like getting a taste of Acadia before visiting it.

            I cannot list all of the spots that I stopped at due to their amazing views but there is a place at the northern tip of ‘Great’ Long Pond on Pretty Marsh Road that needs to be seen.  Located in the village of Mount Desert it is called the ‘Great’ Long Pond due to the fact that there is a ‘Little’ Long Pond located to the east in the village of Seal Harbor.

Cadillac Mountain seen from 'Great' Long Pond.

There is a small dirt parking area for the beach and for boat launching.  While I was there I saw a long wooden dock which stretched out into the water.  From the end of this dock is yet another ‘classic Maine’ scene with the towering Cadillac Mountain dominating the horizon.  The rapidly changing foliage on either side of the pond caught my eye and led me toward the middle where the mountain stood.  The pond is very narrow at this end and the mountain seemed to sit in the perfect spot where the majority of it could be seen.  I felt like I could have stayed at the end of that dock for the rest of the day but there were more places to be seen on Mount Desert Island.

The well known Somesville footbridge. 

Lastly I stopped in the oldest village on Mount Desert Island: Somesville.  Dating back to 1761 the village sits at the end of Somes Sound which interestingly enough is the only fjord on the east coast of the United States.  The most recognizable spot in Somesville would have to be the Selectman’s Building and the beautiful wooden foot bridge which curves up and over a small river.  I have seen this spot in photos all over the internet as I did my research for this article, it definitely deserves all of the attention.  The Selectman’s Building should not be ignored though as it is one of the oldest buildings on Mount Desert Island being built in 1780.

Across the street from the brilliant covered bridge is the Somesville Library built in 1905.  That is a nice piece of history but the scenery located behind it will take your breath away.  The Somes Pond Outlet leads to Somes Harbor and beyond that is Acadia National Park.  You can park across the street where the Selectman’s Building is and walk over to the library and see the picturesque scenery.  It was yet another wonderful stop as I ventured back and forth across Mount Desert Island.

Although it is mostly known for the popular vacation destination of Bar Harbor and the incredible Acadia National Park there is so much more to see on Mount Desert Island.  Whether it’s the majestic sight of Bass Harbor Head Light on the rocky cliffs, the picture perfect footbridge of Somesville, or the view of Cadillac Mountain from ‘Great’ Long Pond, there is no shortage of worthwhile adventures to have on Mount Desert Island.  Have fun and happy traveling!

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Bass Harbor Head Light:  Take Rt. 3 onto Mt. Desert Island, continue onto Rt. 102, follow over 12 miles.  Follow Rt. 102 south to Lighthouse Rd.  Follow to parking area.

            Pretty Marsh Picnic Area:  Take Rt. 3 onto Mt. Desert Island, continue onto Rt. 102.  Turn right at Pretty Marsh Rd., picnic area is 3^rd right after Indian Point Road.

            Somesville Footbridge:  Take Rt. 3 onto Mt. Desert Island, continue onto Rt. 102.  Follow it south 5 miles.  Parking area is on right at Oak Hill Rd.

References:  Mt. Desert Island History

            New England Lighthouses - Bass Harbor Head Light

            Acadia Magic.com

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