In My Footsteps: Trip 92: Acadia National Park

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 92:  Acadia National Park

October 4, 2010

            There are many places that I have been to during my traveling time that have blown me away.  However, there was a place that had been on my radar as a must-see destination ever since I was in high school.  That place was Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island, Maine.  From the moment I began to become interested in photography I had chosen Ansel Adams as the photographer I would most like to emulate.  I saw his photos from Schoodic Point in 1949 at Acadia and hoped that someday I could make the trip to see these same natural wonders.  Never in my wildest dreams could I have imagined how life-changing this trip would be.

Sand Beach

            Acadia began to be preserved originally thanks to major contributions from local citizen George B. Dorr during the late 1800’s to early 1900’s.  It was his vision to keep the naturally beauty of Mount Desert Island safe for future generations.  The park was first called the Sieur de Monts National Memorial in 1916 because of the house that Mr. Dorr built near the Sieur de Monts Spring in 1909.  It was then known as Lafayette National Park in 1919 before the name Acadia National Park was given to the area in 1929.

With more than 47,000 acres of preserved land it is impossible to see all that Acadia has to offer in one day, possibly even a week, but I tried my best to see a few spots that were circled on my map.  For novices such as myself the best way to see as much of Acadia in as short of time as most people have is to take a drive on the Park Loop Road.

Some folks getting splashed at the Thunder Hole.

The twenty-seven mile loop begins near the Hulls Cove Visitor’s Center and there is a fee to enter but I promise you that once you are inside any amount paid will have been worth it.  The views along the road are simply amazing from the moment you enter the park.  The people who designed the road knew this fact and have designated the right lane as a parking lane as well.  I made quick use of this by stopping and parking over and over just to get out and stare at the ocean and rocky shores.  In a bit of irony the design of the Park Loop Road was the brainchild of famed architect Frederick Law Olmstead Jr. who I previously had discovered as the designer of the unique Rockery in Easton, Massachusetts.

A couple overlooking Otter Cove.

Not far from the entrance to the Park Loop Road is the first spot that I visited: Sand Beach.  There is a stairway to get down to the shore from the parking area and the instant I caught sight of the beach I knew it was going to be extraordinary.  The beach is rather small as it is nestled between rocky cliffs, and the water rarely gets above fifty-five degrees.  Those two things are part of what makes this place amazing.  The waves crash on the shore and weave their way through the outcropping of rocks which line the right side of the beach, I was mesmerized by the sound.  There is a hiking trail called the Great Head Trail for the land formation that it encompasses.  From Great Head there is an amazing view of a spot known as the ‘Beehive.’  This 520-foot mountain is very popular with hikers as it is not nearly as difficult to navigate as Cadillac Mountain.  As I said before though, it is nearly impossible to get to see everything at Acadia in one day and so the Beehive is a spot that will remain for another day.

Waiting for the sunset at Blue Hill Overlook.

The next place along the Park Loop Road that will blow your mind is the very famous Thunder Hole.  This is a small inlet with a cavern formed naturally in the rocks.  When the waves start flowing in they dive into this cavern which forces the air out and in short makes a sound like a roar of thunder.  The waves can shoot as high as forty feet into the air.  I witnessed for myself as a group of people standing at the railing overlooking Thunder Hole were splashed with one of these waves.  After a while it becomes a sort of game to see when the next loud crashing wave will hit, or when the next wave will spray high enough into the air to soak onlookers.  I had to dive out of the way of one rogue wave but was lucky enough to escape this spot virtually dry.  I could have stayed and listened to the sounds of thunder forever but there was a spot I had been waiting to see for many years and I needed to get there before dark.

At 1,532 feet Cadillac Mountain is the highest point within twenty-five miles of the east coast of the United States.  From October to March it is the first spot to see the sunrise as well.  My ultimate goal was to get to watch the sunset from the summit of this incredible pink granite mountain.  It is a longer drive than I thought getting around the Park Loop Road to the Cadillac Mountain access road.  I feared not making it in time to see the sunset. 

The sunset from atop Cadillac Mountain.

The drive on this road was fabulous as well.  At some points the only thing separating your vehicle from the edge of the cliffs are a few well placed rocks.  There were several turn off points that would have been fine for watching the sunset if it had come down to that but luckily for me I made it to the Blue Hill Overlook which is the best spot for viewing the sunset.  There were already about forty people there, cameras out and waiting as the sun slowly crept down toward the horizon. 

It was as cold as I had been during my entire trip to Maine but I would not have traded that experience for anything.  The sunset was spectacular; I have never seen anything like it.  There were hills and rivers all coated in a golden glow and I was even able to see the lights of Bar Harbor.  Even after the sun had gone and the colors had faded to gray I did not want to leave, I did not want the experience to end.  I can say this without a doubt, watching the sunset from the top of Cadillac Mountain was one of the highlights of my life.

I wish that everybody reading this could experience what I did on that night.  Acadia National Park was a place I had dreamed of visiting since I was in high school and after seeing it I can say that I cannot wait to go back again.  There was so much I missed but what I did see will stay with me for a lifetime.  Everybody needs to see this place at least once in their lives.  Have fun and happy traveling!

For a short video featuring the Thunder Hole and the sunset on top of Cadillac Mountain visit my YouTube channel here:  Acadia National Park.

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Start of Park Loop Road:  Take Rt. 3 south onto Mt. Desert Island.  Follow it into Bar Harbor, turn left at Mt. Desert St., turn right at Main St.  Turn left at Schooner Head Rd.  Follow it 2.5 miles, turn right toward Park Loop Rd.  Turn left, ranger station will be straight ahead, this is starting point.

References:  National Park Service - Acadia

            Acadia National Park.com

            Acadia Magic.com

Acadia National Park on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 42: Easton, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 42: Easton, Mass.

April 7, 2010

            There are some spots that are obvious destinations in Massachusetts such as Cape Cod, Plymouth, and Boston.  There are other spots that are hidden gems that should be made destinations.  One such place is a little town just east of Brockton called Easton.  When choosing my destinations for my travel articles I look for towns with history and natural beauty, Easton has both.

            First settled in 1694 by Clement Briggs, who had a home built near the present-day Easton Green, the town was mainly a Native American hunting and burial ground until 1713.  During King Philip’s War, Metacom, King Philip himself, used Easton as a headquarters.  The most prominent name, however, associated with Easton is that of the Ames family.  Many buildings in Easton feature the Ames name.  Who are the Ames family?

            Oakes Ames was a politician born in Easton.  He served in the House of Representatives for Massachusetts from 1863 to 1873.  He is also seen as the most important person in the completion of the Union Pacific portion of the United States Transcontinental Railroad.  He was asked to take over the Union Pacific portion by President Lincoln who was busy dealing with the Civil War.  The railroad was completed in 1869 where the ‘Golden Spike’ was hammered home at Promontory Summit in Utah. 

            Oliver Ames was the son of Oakes Ames.  He was also a politician and was Governor of Massachusetts from 1887 to 1890.  Easton’s high school is named Oliver Ames High School in his honor.  However it is his father Oakes Ames who has the more amazing building serving as a memorial to his work.     

            The Oakes Ames Memorial Hall(above), located in the historic district of North Easton, is a truly spectacular piece of architecture.  Built between 1879-1881 the hall served as a gift from Ames’ children to the town of Easton after his disgrace of the Credit Mobilier of America Scandal during the late 1860’s.  It was meant to be a Town Hall but ended up being more of an informal meeting house for private groups.  It stands up on a hill overlooking the historic districts Main Street and Lincoln Street and has a pinkish-gray color.  Though rarely used today this building is more than just eye-catching, upon seeing it I felt the need to stand under the immense arches and take in the hot sunny day from the shade.

            Two other buildings adjacent to the Ames Memorial Hall have an amazingly similar look to it, almost as if they were its children.  The reason for this is that all of the buildings were designed by famed 19^th Century architect Henry Hobson Richardson.  Directly across the street from the Hall is a former post office located at 66 Main Street which is now a public building.  Located to the right of the Hall is the Ames Free Library(right).  Serving as the town’s library this building has a beautifully large front lawn.  It has stayed virtually untouched since the children’s wing was built in 1931 as a gift from Fanny Holt Ames to honor her husband William H. Ames.  With a renewed interest in the architecture of H.H. Richardson the library has become a destination for students from all across the country and abroad.  Located behind the library is what can only be described as a sizeable restoration project. 

After purchasing the adjacent Queset estate and the property behind the library the Ames Library Trustees have taken it upon themselves to restore the incredible Italian Garden.  Developed by Winthrop Ames in 1911 this garden was once a shining example of the Country Place Era in the United States.  It had fallen into severe decay and disarray but as I stood alongside the grounds I could not help but be impressed by the work these Trustees have put in.  The former Italian Garden is a sight to see even in this early stage of restoration.   

On an island in between Main and Lincoln sits a most unusual piece of historical beauty.  It is called The Rockery(right) and my words will not fully describe exactly what it is.  Created by noted American landscaper Frank Law Olmstead, The Rockery was built in 1882 as a memorial to the citizens of Easton lost during the Civil War.  The memorial itself consists of systematically piled boulders and an archway very similar to those seen in the Ames Memorial Hall.  Unstable and falling apart over the years The Rockery has been fortified and restored to its original dimensions.  There is a dirt walkway atop the memorial that gives one some spectacular views of the North Easton historical district.  I cannot stress enough the need to physically see this most unusual yet beautiful piece of history.

Along the border between Easton and Sharon sits Borderland State Park.  An amazing array of natural beauty it is also surprising to find out that the state park is a National Historic Site.  Once I stepped onto the grounds I found out the reason though.  It all comes back to the Ames family once again.  The 1,782 acre Borderland State Park has a Frisbee golf course, gigantic open fields, horseback riding, and the picturesque Leaches Pond.  However, this land, purchased by Oakes Ames, son of Governor Oliver Ames, in 1906 contained a surprise for me, a three-story, twenty room surprise.  The Ames’s mansion(left) still stands along the edge of a large green field and is virtually unchanged inside and out.  It is magnificently out of place.  The home is available for tours on the third Sunday of the month between April and November.  Leaches Pond which is only a short walk from the mansion was used for scenes of the film Shutter Island.  There is a stone lodge along the shore where the scenes were shot.   

Easton was a spot on my list of places to see for a while and when I finally got the chance it absolutely lived up to my expectations.  It had the amazing historical sites like the Ames Memorial Hall and The Rockery.  These were made more enjoyable by the peaceful ambiance of the historic district.  Borderland State Park is a place that could be visited for weeks in a row and you’d probably find spots yet unseen.  Easton is a hidden gem in Massachusetts that needs to be a destination for all people who enjoy beautiful scenery, historic sites, and small town charm.  I highly recommend taking a day trip here to take it all in.  Have fun and happy traveling!    

Directions:  North Easton Historic District:  From I-495 heading north take Exit 7A for Rt. 24 north.  Take Exit 17B to merge with Rt. 123.  Turn right onto Rt. 138, follow 1 mile turn left at Main Street.  Take a slight right to stay on Main Street.  There is a small parking area in front of The Rockery.  From here it is a short walk to Ames Memorial Hall and Free Library as well. 

Borderland State Park:  From I-495 heading north take Exit 7A for Rt. 24 north.  Take Exit 16B to merge with Rt. 106, follow 5 miles and turn right at Poquanticut Ave.  Turn left at Massapoag Ave, follow 2 miles, park will be on right.

References:  The Italian Garden at Queset

            Borderland State Park

                Easton, Mass. - Official Site