In My Footsteps Podcast Episode 10: Reliving My 1st Author Event; Lubec, Maine; Origins of Nickelodeon; This Week In History and more.

 

In My Footsteps: West Quoddy Head Lighthouse, Lubec, Maine

In My Footsteps: West Quoddy Head Lighthouse

            West Quoddy Head Light was the reason I decided to do travel writing in the first place.  I was always fascinated by lighthouses growing up on Cape Cod.  There was Nauset Light, Chatham Light, Nobska Light, and Race Point Light among others that were familiar to me.  As I got older I still retained my interest in these guides for passing ships.  First I began by learning more about nearby lighthouses like Three Sisters in Eastham, Wood End and Long Point Lights in Provincetown, and Wings Neck Light in Pocasset.  Then I began daydreaming about lighthouses up and down the east coast.  That is when I found Jeremy D’Entremont’s New England Lighthouse website.  It is there that I first saw West Quoddy Head in Lubec, Maine.

            With its red and white striped façade it immediately captured my imagination. There was only one problem, from where I lived on Cape Cod it was an eight-hour drive to Lubec.  I was not exactly thrilled about the idea of a 16-hour round trip drive so it was necessary to find a spot to stay overnight.  That’s when I hit the jackpot.  My cousin Tracey and her ex-husband Steve had owned a cottage on the water in Owl’s Head, Maine.  It was nearly exactly halfway between me and Lubec.  It was a rental but as luck had it nobody was there for a week in October.  I was allowed to stay there for nothing, what a great deal.

            Now, don’t get me wrong, I was excited for a week of traveling up and down the Maine coast.  It was going to be a tremendous experience.  However, the trip was totally based on getting to see West Quoddy Head Light.

            The lighthouse itself was built in 1858 overlooking Quoddy Narrows and within eyesight of Campobello Island, a part of New Brunswick, Canada.  Lubec is the eastern most point in the United States.  It is one of the most photographed and painted lighthouses in the country.  The red stripes on West Quoddy Head come from its close proximity to Canada.  In Canada the red stripes are common to help the lighthouses stand out against the snow.  Assateague Light, located on Assateague Island in Virginia, is the only other lighthouse with similar red stripes in the U.S.  The lighthouse is now on the grounds of Quoddy Head State Park and was named to the Registry of Historic Places in 1980.

            There are a few parking spots next to the lighthouse but the main parking area is located a few hundred feet away.  This is the better parking area as the lighthouse sits down a slight hill and sets a magnificent scene immediately upon your arrival.  When I said this was a popular spot to visit I meant it.  There is only one main road, Rt. 1, leading out to Lubec once you get past Ellsworth, near Bar Harbor.  I ended up behind an SUV with Texas license plates almost immediately after passing through Ellsworth.  I stopped for breakfast at a McDonalds in Machias and so did the folks from Texas.  When I arrived at West Quoddy Head an hour and a half later I was not surprised when the four people from Texas arrived shortly thereafter.  I can’t say if they came all that way just for the lighthouse, but you never know.

            I was definitely in awe and very happy to be at West Quoddy Head.  I must have managed to take a photograph from every possible angle including wandering out into a nearby field.  I also shot a video of my time there as I was not sure if I’d ever have a chance to be there again.  I wanted to be able to cue up my memories anytime I felt like it. 

            There was a sort of guide there sharing some information.  I found out that the lighthouse was not the eastern most point in the U.S.; the guide pointed out a few large rocks out in the water technically considered to be part of the country.  Of course I shot a picture of them.  I tried hard to strike a good balance between photographing every possible inch of the grounds while also simply standing and soaking in the feeling of being there.  I try to do that at many places that I am truly excited to visit.

            I began the walk back up the hill to my car and continued taking photos looking back.  I didn’t want to leave, but knew that I had a four hour drive back to my ‘home base’ in Owl’s Head.  West Quoddy Head is still tops on my list of favorite lighthouses, although there are a few I have researched that might come close.  Of course none of those are within ten hours by car, so they will have to wait.  I drove eight hours to see West Quoddy Head, anybody who lives closer needs to go check it out.  It is a beautiful and unique piece of history.  Have fun and happy traveling!

West Quoddy Head Lighthouse:  Quoddy Head Road, Lubec, Maine; GPS (44.815256,-66.951007) – From Ellsworth, Maine take Rt. 1 heading east.  Follow Rt. 1 approx. 75 miles into Whiting; turn right onto Rt. 189, follow it 8.8 miles, turn right onto Maple Tree Rd., after a mile turn left to stay on this road.  Turn right onto S. Lubec Rd. after .6 miles, take a slight left onto Quoddy Head Rd., follow it to the end.

West Quoddy.com

New England Lighthouses - West Quoddy Head      

In My Footsteps - Lubec, Maine

Lubec on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 94: Ellsworth, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 94:  Ellsworth, Maine

October 5, 2010

            The gateway to Mount Desert Island and one of the last major towns on the way to Lubec, Ellsworth can hold its own with any other spot along Maine’s mid-coast.  Originally inhabited by the Penobscot and Passamaquoddy tribes of Native Americans the small town is now a popular tourist destination busy during spring and summer.  The area where the town of Ellsworth lies now was once a disputed area between the French and English during the 17^th and early 18^th century; the period of time which encompassed the French and Indian Wars.

Union River

            I stopped to have lunch at the Ellsworth Waterford Park and Marina on Washington Street.  The small marina is located on the Union River and is perfect for having a scenic lunch such as I did, or for launching your boats.  There were many smaller boats floating and drifting in the calm waters which made for a beautiful sight, they dotted the river all the way up toward where West Main Street crosses over the water.  The best view of the Union River came by walking out onto a dock where several rowboats were huddled in the corner of the T-shaped wooden dock.

City Hall with the Seal of Maine at the top.

            In order to explore Ellsworth’s Main Street I decided to park my car at City Hall Plaza and take a walk.  The City Hall though was something to be seen.  A large brick building built in 1935 it sits on a grassy knoll overlooking Main Street.  There is an amazing golden sculpture near the crest of the roof of the Seal of Maine.  It consists of a sailor with an anchor and a farmer with a scythe standing on either side of a moose kneeling beneath a pine tree.  The Latin word ‘dirigo’ is above them which means ‘I lead.’  The reason for this is that at one time Maine was the only state to hold its elections in September.

            The reason why City Hall is such a recently built spot in comparison to most towns I visit is because the original and 130 other homes and buildings were destroyed in the Great Ellsworth Fire on May 7, 1933.  Sadly the fires were the work of an arsonist named Norman Moore, a mentally unstable dishwasher, who was later apprehended and punished appropriately.  Folks from as far away as Bangor had to be called in to help put out the many blazes and in another bit of sad irony the banks had been closed due to the Great Depression a few weeks earlier.  This meant that people had to borrow money from friends and family on good faith to attempt to rebuild.

The Grand Theatre under repair.

To the left of City Hall on State Street sits the Ellsworth Historical Society building.  This was once home to the old Hancock County Jail and Sheriff’s House.  Built in 1886 it is unassuming from the front as it is in a bit of disrepair, but from the side you can see where the brick building ends and the old wooden jail begins.  Not coincidentally this old jail sits next to the Hancock County Courthouse which sits imposingly on another knoll.  This building was erected in 1838 and after learning of the Great Ellsworth Fire I was more impressed that it was in great condition and is still in use.

Continuing on the stretch of State Street nearest City Hall there is the historic First Congregational Church.  One of the most photographed churches in all of Maine this amazing spot was built in 1847 with the church being organized in 1812.  There is a really unique view of this church from the side lawn of City Hall as the white steeple stretches up above the perfectly set row of arborvitae trees.  I took several photos of the white church steeple sitting seemingly right next to the rounded dome of City Hall, it is a great scene.

The steeple of the First Congregational Church poking up behind City Hall.

Out on Main Street there is another institution which got its start out of the ashes of the Great Ellsworth Fire.  The Grand Theatre opened in 1938 with Opening Night showcasing the film Holiday starring Katharine Hepburn and Cary Grant.  With the advent of television The Grand took to having semipro boxing matches among other things to stave off closing.  Now there is some sort of entertainment going on at The Grand over 330 days a year.  While I was in Ellsworth the seventy-plus year old theatre was undergoing some minor façade work thanks to local donations.  Even in that state there was a feel to the place like a time warp a simpler America.

Even though a fire wiped out much of the history of Ellsworth in 1933 there still is that same feeling of a simpler time like what I felt standing before The Grand Theatre.  It maybe a gateway to many other places in Downeast Maine but I enjoyed exploring this beautiful small town.  There are many spots along the Union River to see and other areas to swim at like the immense Graham Lake to the north.  A walk along Main Street after checking out City Hall will truly give you a feel for what Ellsworth is all about.  After that you will definitely think of it as more than just a gateway to other places.  Have fun and happy traveling!

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Ellsworth Waterford Park and Marina:  Take Rt. 1 into Ellsworth heading east.  After crossing over Union River take 1^st right onto Water St.  Follow it .5 miles and turn right.

            City Hall:  Take Rt. 1 into Ellsworth heading east.  After crossing over Union River take 1^st left onto State St., 1^st right into City Hall Plaza.  Old Hancock Jail, Courthouse, and Congregational Church are all visible from parking lot.  Grand Theatre is straight out onto Main St.

References:  The Great Ellsworth Fire of 1933

            The Grand Theatre Online

            Ellsworth Chamber of Commerce

Ellsworth on Dwellable

Ellsworth on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 93: Lubec, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 93:  Lubec, Maine

October 5, 2010

            The eastern-most town in the United States, Lubec is a very small town with some really big attractions.  As small and remote as Lubec is it was actually one of my main destinations during my time in Maine.  For one thing it was as close as I could get to Canada without a passport.  Second it is the home of a place I had been waiting to see for quite some time as well: West Quoddy Head Lighthouse.

West Quoddy Head Lighthouse

            Getting to Lubec was an adventure all its own as it sits 150 miles from Owl’s Head which is where I made my home base during my Maine trip.  Granted it is not that difficult to find as the drive consists of staying on Route 1 all the way there but the towns become fewer and further between once you pass through Ellsworth.  After I passed through Machias there was nearly nothing in the way of civilization but for sprinkles of homes and a few stores.  It may sound boring but to me it was a beautiful and peaceful trip to an anticipated location.

            West Quoddy Head Lighthouse was a place I had seen photos of but had never expected to actually stand in front of.  It is called West Quoddy Head because there is in fact an East Quoddy Head Lighthouse located on Campobello Island across Lubec Channel in New Brunswick, Canada.  What makes West Quoddy Head unique is its red and white stripes which make it look like a big brick barbershop pole.  Built in 1857 the lighthouse sits on the grounds of Quoddy Head State Park, just east of the town of Lubec.  It is a very remote area, much like the town of Lubec is as well, which is something that adds to the sort of mystique that West Quoddy Head Lighthouse has for me. 

Entering Lubec

            It was an unbelievable experience from the beginning as the parking area is up on a hill from the lighthouse so I had to walk down as it slowly got larger until I was able to reach out and touch the big barbershop pole.  There is a monument marking it as the eastern-most lighthouse in the eastern-most town in the country.  Bordered on the north by a chain link fence since it sits above a cliff there is a great view across Quoddy Narrows to Campobello Island.  It was the first time I had seen anything but United States soil, despite the fact that I did not step foot on it.  Not having a passport I did not wish to get into any trouble for a few photos.

            For those who wish to make the trip to Lubec last, which I recommend, there is the Quoddy Head Station only a few minutes from the lighthouse.  It is a restored Coast Guard Station which now serves as an amazing motel.  There is room for thirty people and offers fantastic rates and views.  As I was snapping photos of this spot I remember that The Beatles ‘Hey Jude’ was playing on my IPod and I found myself lost in the moment of the big finale standing in the middle of Quoddy Head Road soaking in my accomplishment of actually making it all the way to Lubec and West Quoddy Head Lighthouse.  I will never forget how I felt at that point in time.

Franklin D. Roosevelt Bridge crossing into Canada

            The town of Lubec has the honor of not only being the eastern-most point in the United States but also of being the smallest town I have visited thus far with just over 1,600 people.  It was named for the town of Lübeck, Germany and incorporated in 1811.  Being that it was as close as I was going to get to Canada I decided to push that limit by parking at one of the many boat launching spots along Lubec Channel.  This one along Commercial Street had a breakwater stretching out into the channel which gave me an awesome look at Mulholland Point Lighthouse only a few hundred feet across the water on the shores of Campobello Island.

            Mulholland Point Light, red and white like the Canadian flag, was built in 1884 and was used to aide in navigation until the completion of the Franklin D. Roosevelt Bridge was completed in 1962.  The bridge’s navigational lights made the lighthouse obsolete and it was decommission shortly thereafter.  Campobello Island is forever linked to Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt who owned a summer cottage on the island although Eleanor visited it more than FDR once he became President.

Mulholland Point Lighthouse

            While standing at the end of the breakwater shooting the lighthouse I was also privileged to see three seals fishing in the rapid current of Lubec Channel.  Having not seen many seals in my life I was just as fascinated with watching them play and dive for fish as I was with being so close to the Canadian border.  I was so close that I could see the cars being stopped on the other side of the Franklin D. Roosevelt Bridge at the border guard station.

            It was fitting I thought that I had gone literally as far as I could go in the United States and was standing there with the entire country behind me.  Ironically as well was the fact that this day was the warmest of all of the days I had spent in Maine despite it being so far north.  Lubec may be the smallest town I have visited so far in my travels but West Quoddy Head Light helps to make it one of my favorites.  Even though it is a long trip out for most people I believe that the charm of the eastern-most town in the United States makes the trip worthwhile.  Have fun and happy traveling!

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

For a short video featuring West Quoddy Head Light and Lubec, Maine check out my YouTube page: Lubec, Maine

Directions:  West Quoddy Head Lighthouse:  Take Rt. 1 up the coast toward Lubec.  In Whiting when Rt. 1 is aka River Rd., turn right onto Rt. 189.  Follow 10 miles, turn right at S. Lubec Rd.  Take a slight left at Quoddy Head Rd., follow it to the parking lot overlooking the lighthouse.

            Commercial Street Parking Area:  Take Rt. 1 up the coast toward Lubec.  In Whiting when Rt. 1 is aka River Rd., turn right onto Rt. 189.  Follow Rt. 189 into Lubec, turn left at Eureka St., turn right onto Commercial Street.  Parking area is on left where Commercial St. meets Pleasant St.  Mulholland Point Light is straight across the water. 

References:  Quoddy Head Station

            West Quoddy.com

            Visit Lubec Maine.com

Lubec on Dwellable