Pages

Showing posts with label samuel de champlain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label samuel de champlain. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 15, 2020

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Samuel de Champlain and Port Fortune




     “What’s in a name?”

     It is part of a famous quote from legendary scribe William Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. Every person, place, and thing has a name that becomes synonymous with them. In most cases when something is named that name remains unchanged through time. Cape Cod gained its name in 1602 through English explorer Bartholomew Gosnold. It has remained unchanged for more than four centuries.

    Village names on the Cape came as communities were established, mostly based upon English towns. Sandwich, Yarmouth, Falmouth, and others were named for places across the Atlantic.

     It is a rarity that a town changes its name once it has been decided upon. There have been some examples like when Hot Springs, New Mexico became Truth Or Consequences after the game show, or when Clark, Texas became DISH after the satellite television company. One change of interest locally came in 1997 when the town of Gay Head on Martha’s Vineyard was changed to Aquinnah. Another name change was bandied about on Cape Cod that not many may be aware of. It was a name given to a Cape Cod town by another famed explorer. This is the story of that explorer and his journey to the Cape.

     Only a few years after Gosnold explored and gave Cape Cod its name another world famous explorer found his way to the peninsula. French explorer Samuel de Champlain made at least 21 voyages across the Atlantic Ocean to North America beginning in 1599. His first voyage was to check on the colonies in the West Indies (Caribbean) for the Spanish government. His second trip in 1603 led Champlain to present-day Nova Scotia and the St. Lawrence River in Canada. It was his third New World trip in 1604 which led him to Cape Cod for the first time.

    After beginning the exploration of North America once again in Nova Scotia the expedition of three ships, including Champlain’s ship Don de Dieu, began venturing south. In the spring of 1605, after enduring a harsh Canadian winter, Champlain and the rest of the expedition headed south, mapping the coastlines of Maine, New Hampshire, and into Massachusetts. The venture was to find a suitable location for a French settlement.

     The initial contact with Cape Cod for Champlain occurred as he landed in present-day Eastham. He likely sailed into Pleasant Bay and could have landed between the location of the Salt Pond Visitors Center and Fort Hill. The stay was very brief and Champlain’s crew returned north. Ultimately a settlement was established near the mouth of the Annapolis River in Nova Scotia at the end of the summer of 1605. It was named Port Royal and became the home base for further exploration of the North American coastline.

    A voyage south to Florida in the spring of 1606 failed due to weather and lack of supplies among other things. The next trip returned Champlain to Cape Cod in the fall of 1606. It was this time that he became the first European to visit what is today known as Chatham.

Champlain's Map of Stage Harbor with Harding's Beach Point along the bottom.


     In October 1606 Champlain first returned to Eastham and was greeted in a friendly manner from the Natives. After a short visit they continued south and were nearly wrecked on the shoals surrounding Monomoy Island. Eventually they entered present-day Stage Harbor and docked. Champlain would sketch out the area and even dubbed it initially ‘Port Fortune.’

     The crew stayed on shore with the Natives for more than a week. It was initially a pleasant stay but eventually turned hostile as the Natives felt the French had overstayed their welcome. An early morning attack by the Natives on their last day at Port Fortune left four of Champlain’s crew dead and the rest of them lucky to escape the bloody skirmish. Later on Port Fortune would be referred to as ‘Misfortune’ due to this event.

Present-day view of Stage Harbor with Harding's Beach Point along the bottom. (Google Maps)


     The expedition continued on southwesterly until they gained sight of Martha’s Vineyard on October 20, 1606, although Champlain was not certain if this was part of mainland Cape Cod. A strong storm forced the ship to turn back and reluctantly dock in Stage Harbor again. It was here while awaiting favorable winds that Champlain’s crew enacted revenge on the Natives killing several of them while under the guise of friendship. 

     Once the weather was up to par the expedition left Stage Harbor and, except for a brief return to Eastham on the way back to Port Royal, would never see Cape Cod again. Champlain became the first European to visit Chatham and no other would step foot there for fifty years until William Nickerson arrived in 1656.

    Samuel de Champlain died on Christmas Day in 1635 in Quebec City. He had returned there in 1633 and acted as governor until his death. His legacy was as the ‘Father of New France’ for his cartography of much of the eastern coast from Nova Scotia to Cape Cod and his establishment of Quebec in Canada. However Champlain’s connection to Cape Cod came back to the forefront three centuries after his death.

     In 1937 the Port Fortune Society was formed with the intention of changing the name of Chatham to the name originally given to the land by Champlain upon his arrival. The idea for the change came from the minds of two people. There was Chatham artist Harold Dunbar who thought the name change would be a way to honor Champlain as the ‘grandfather of our country.’ The second was retired Professor Carol Wight of Johns Hopkins University who did not see the appeal in honoring William Pitt the English Earl of Chatham who never stepped foot on the land.

     Their cause was championed by Ben Adams Buck who was president of the Port Fortune Society, a lifelong Chatham resident and Cape Cod historian. In April 1937 the group’s intentions were declared in a long newspaper article. Though initially making waves with its declaration nothing came of the name change attempt and the Port Fortune Society became a mere footnote in Cape Cod history.
The Champlain stone marker near Stage Harbor.



     In the end the Port Fortune name did end up being a part of Chatham. There was the seasonal restaurant and lodge on the corner of Main Street and Hallett Street called The Port Fortune. It started as a restaurant in the 1930’s and later became a bed and breakfast called the Port Fortune Inn. This existed until just after the turn of the 21st century when it became a private home.
Samuel de Champlain’s connection to the Cape today still remains.

     Though unsuccessful at changing the name of Chatham to Port Fortune Carol Wight succeeded in having a stone marker commemorating Champlain’s Cape Cod visits created near Stage Harbor in the 1930’s. Champlain’s detailed map of Stage Harbor can still be viewed and some fixtures of Chatham’s landscape like Mill Pond and Oyster Pond can be made out in the sketches.
---------------------------------------

My first eBook in 10 years, In Their Footsteps, featuring the interesting stories of Cape Cod's history, is on sale at Amazon.com. 


Thursday, November 11, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 84: Owl's Head, Maine

In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund


Trip 84:  Owl’s Head, Maine
October 2, 2010


            Throughout the majority of my trips I have taken I have always felt that there was never enough time to see all that I wanted to see.  Getting a chance to spend six days in Maine I thought would be a perfect way to correct that.  Now, after finishing up my trip to Maine I have found out that even six days was not enough to see what I had wanted to see.  That being said, my time in Maine was among the most fun that I have had in my life. 
The living room at Wataview
I owe a huge debt of thanks to my friend Steve Davis who allowed me to stay at his ‘Wataview’ home on Cottage Avenue in Owl’s Head.  This house has an amazing view of Rockland Harbor and the Breakwater Lighthouse.  What a thrill it was for me to be able to sit out on the enclosed porch after dark and simply enjoy the sight of the lighthouse lantern as it spun rhythmically across the water and into the windows.  It is available for rent up until the beginning of October and the website is included at the end of the article.
Owl’s Head is a small town in the mid-coast region of Maine.  It was first explored in 1605 by Samuel de Champlain and was called Bedabedec Point by the Abenaki tribe of Native Americans.  The name means ‘Cape of the Winds.’  The town got its name from mariners who thought the shape of the rock ridge where Owl’s Head Light currently stands looked like an owl.  Though it has over 400 years of history the town was not incorporated until 1921.
Birch Point Beach State Park
 I found Owl’s Head to be in many ways an absolutely perfect snapshot of what I always had thought Maine would look like to me.  After waking up to a beautiful sunrise over the harbor the first place I ventured out to was Birch Point Beach State Park.  This area is one that would qualify as ‘classic Maine’ with its outcropping of rocks lined with straight-as-towers pine trees stretching out into the cool Atlantic waters.
The road to the beach was closed so I needed to walk to get to the water.  This was a welcomed addition to my trip as it gave me a chance to take in the rapidly changing leaves whose colors were made even brighter by the strong morning sun.  The beach was magnificent as I hit it at low tide and was able to walk out on some of the dry rocks and get a great view of the Mussel Ridge Channel Islands which sit about a mile off shore.  This area ended up being the best possible starting point for my time in Maine and it only got better from here.
Entrance to the Transportation Museum
The next spot I visited was the Owl’s Head Transportation Museum located on Museum Street.  The drive from Birch Point to the museum was so amazing that I almost did not want it to end.  Everything shone from the sun, every home, every tree, it was all too perfect.  The Transportation Museum has an unbelievable collection of items, it is a day trip all in itself.  There are originals and replicas of aircraft dating all the way back to 1804.  The thirteen-inch unmanned glider built by the ‘Father of Aviation,’ Sir George Cayley, is replicated here.  It is amazing to see where aviation began to where it is today.
Owl's Head Harbor
The Museum also has an impressive collection of antique cars as well including a three-wheeled open air vehicle built by Karl Benz in 1885.  It looks incredibly out of place even among vehicles from thirty years later but there are many features to it which are still used in cars today.  I found the vehicles from the 19th and very early 20th century to be the most interesting mostly because of the history and how these awkward looking vehicles actually changed the world.
After leaving the Transportation Museum I headed to Owl’s Head State Park located on the northeast corner of the wide peninsula.  It is here that the spectacular Owl’s Head Lighthouse resides.  This area contains the rocky cliff that gave Owl’s Head its name, although it is impossible to see from where the lighthouse is situated.
Owl's Head Lighthouse
From the parking lot it is a short walk to the lighthouse itself.  The walk contains some more incredible views of the rocky cliffs and a gray sandy beach located near the parking lot.  Once you get to where the Coast Guard Station and Owl’s Head Lighthouse are the cliffs get much higher and the views include all of the surrounding area.
I found it odd yet thrilling that a lighthouse was built in such a spot.  Built in 1852 the lighthouse itself is only thirteen-feet tall yet it can be seen for miles because the light is 100 feet above sea level thanks to the gigantic cliffs.  The stairway which leads up to where the lighthouse sits made for some fantastic photo opportunities, and the view from the top was the perfect capper to my day in Owl’s Head.  The walk and the stairs should not deter anybody from paying this marvelous site a visit.
Although it is a small town population wise, and a new town as far as being officially recognized, Owl’s Head is filled with amazing places to see.  The Owl’s Head Transportation Museum is a day trip itself and is a must see.  I highly recommend paying a visit to Owl’s Head Lighthouse for the incredible views.  For a taste of what I believe is ‘classic Maine’ there is Birch Point Beach State Park.  If you see all of those places then I also recommend simply pointing your vehicle in any direction and taking a slow drive through the streets of this awesome little town.  Have fun and happy traveling!

*For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!


Directions:  Birch Point Beach State Park:  Take Rt. 1 into Rockland, turn right at Rt. 73, follow it 4 miles, turn left at Dublin Rd., turn right at Ballyhac Rd.  Follow it to signs for park, there is some parking if gate is closed.
            Owl’s Head Transportation Museum:  Take Rt. 1 into Rockland, turn right at Rt. 73, follow it almost 3 miles, turn left at Museum St., there is a sign for the museum at entrance.
            Owl’s Head Lighthouse:  Take Rt. 1 into Rockland, turn right at Rt. 73, follow it almost 2 miles, turn left at N. Shore Drive.  Turn left at Main St. near Post Office, turn left at Lighthouse Rd. follow it to parking lot.  

                Mussel Ridge Historical Society
            Owl's Head Official Town Site