In My Footsteps: Trip 125: York, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 125:  York, Maine

October 5, 2011

            A trip months in the making the town of York did not disappoint me.  Located only a few minutes across the Maine border this town has the feel of ‘classic Maine’ as I have come to know it while also being close enough to make a day trip out of it.

The front of The Stolen Menu Cafe

            Before visiting even one of the spots on my itinerary I needed to stop for some sweets at a very well known establishment.  The Stolen Menu Café has been featured on such shows as The Phantom Gourmet.  Once you step inside it is easy to see why.  I was face to face with a showcase filled with delicious muffins, cookies, cakes, pastries and more.  I began picking and choosing before realizing that I needed to restrain myself from spending my entire daily budget there.  I highly recommend a visit here during any trip to York, be prepared however to fall in love with basically everything they make.

            After collecting my bounty from The Stolen Menu Café I headed to my first destination.  Cape Neddick Lighthouse located on Nubble Rock has been a dream destination of mine since I began travel writing.  Once you arrive at Sohier Park the lighthouse is in plain sight.  It is much closer to the mainland than it appears in photos.  On this day the tide was low and there may have been thirty to forty feet of water between the coast and Nubble Rock.  It is very tempting to cross but signs remind you that no unauthorized people are allowed on the rock.

Cape Neddick Lighthouse

            This is a very popular destination and one of the most photographed and painted lighthouses in the country.  It looks like a spot that should be painted, and also is a perfect snow globe souvenir thanks to its location on Nubble Rock.  I had the chance to sit and have lunch at Sohier Park and enjoyed every second of my time at Cape Neddick Lighthouse, but there is much more to see in York.

            Located on either side of Cape Neddick are beaches.  To the south is Long Sands Beach, to the north is Short Sands Beach.  The names come obviously from the size of each beach.  I ventured north to Short Sands Beach.  The drive around Cape Neddick was magnificent.  I had to slow down every time I passed a clearing so I could gaze out over the ‘classic Maine’ coast. 

The view from Short Sands Beach

            The parking lot was virtually deserted even on a beautiful sunny day.  The tide was low and I was able to walk a good distance out.  There was a charter boat out just past the breakers heading in toward Cape Neddick Lighthouse; it was the only visible vessel on the water.  This beach was amazing as it is sort of funneled in toward the shore by the rocky coastlines of the village of York Beach.  There are shops next to the beach and also an arcade and a bowling alley which give Short Sands Beach a definite summer destination feel to it. 

            For the history lovers I visited Jefferd’s Tavern, part of the Museums of Old York.  It was built originally in Wells, Maine in 1754 and moved to York in 1939 and restored in 1941 before being moved to its current location in 1959.  It currently serves as a visitor and education center.  The outside of the building has changed little since its construction.  The inside still has the look of a Colonial-era tavern and harkens back to America’s early history.

            Across the street from the tavern is The Old Burying Yard which contains the graves of some of the first settlers of York.  The oldest graves date back to before 1650.  There is also a marker telling the story of one of the worst massacres of the Colonial days.  On a January morning in 1692 Native Americans of the Abenaki Tribe attacked the village of York killing forty and marching nearly 300 off to Canada; many died along the way.  The remains of the victims are located not far from the spot of the marker.  It is a sobering reminder of how wild America was for the first few generations of settlers that lived here.

York's Old Gaol(Jail)

            Finally I visited one of the most important Colonial buildings remaining in the United States.  York’s Old Gaol(Jail) was built in 1719 on a hill which now overlooks Rt. 1A.  It incorporated wood from a previous jail built in 1653 in York so it has a connection dating back more than 350 years.  The name ‘gaol’ is pronounced ‘jail’ and has been associated with the building since it was built as the Kings Prison for the Province of Maine.  It was the main jail for the state up until just before the American Revolution.  After that it was the York County Jail until 1860.  After the Civil War it fell into disrepair.  The cause to restore it and use it as a museum came in 1900 thanks to William Dean Howells, a summer York resident and editor of Atlantic Monthly,  and also York resident Mary Sowells Perkins.

            Although it took many months for me to finally make it there York, Maine for me was worth the wait.  Cape Neddick Lighthouse immediately became one of my favorite places I have visited thus far.  The beaches, both Long Sands and Short Sands, were exquisite.  Do not forget to make time to stop in and have something delicious at The Stolen Menu Café as well!  Have fun and happy traveling! 

     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Cape Neddick Lighthouse:  From I-95 N passing through NH into Maine take Exit 7 for Rt. 1.  Turn left onto Rt. 1 and follow 3.2 miles.  Turn right onto Cape Neddick Rd., follow 1 mile.  Slight right onto Shore Rd., continue onto Main St., turn left onto Railroad Ave.  Railroad Ave. becomes Church St., follow .4 miles, turn left onto Nubble Rd., stay right to stay on Nubble Rd.  Follow ½ mile, take 1^st right onto Sohier Park Rd., follow to lighthouse.

            The Stolen Menu Café:  From I-95 N passing through NH into Maine take Exit 7 for Rt. 1.  Turn right onto Rt. 1 S, turn left onto York St., continue onto Long Sands Rd.  Follow ½ miles, café is on right.

References:  York, Maine.org

            The Stolen Menu Cafe.com

            Old York.org

York on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 89: Augusta, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 89:  Augusta, Maine

October 3, 2010

            Although it ranks as the third smallest state capital, population-wise, Augusta can hold its own with any other capital in the United States.  The area of Augusta was actually first explored by the Popham Colony.  They were English settlers who established the second colony in America only a few months after Jamestown, Virginia in 1607.  It was called by its Native American name of ‘Cushnoc’ until 1797 when it was incorporated as a part of Massachusetts as the town of Harrington.  Shortly thereafter it was renamed Augusta after Augusta Dearborn the daughter of noted American physician and Revolutionary War veteran Henry Dearborn.

Fort Western

            The first place I visited when I entered Augusta was the famed Fort Western.  Built in 1754 it is the oldest wooden fort in the country and remains relatively unchanged to this day; it is opened to the public during the summer months.  As interesting as the fort is there is more to the story of this place.  First of all two of the most infamous names in American history stayed here at one point.  In 1775 during their expedition to Quebec Benedict Arnold and Aaron Burr stayed at the garrison while building bateaux, a small flat bottomed boat.

            Aaron Burr of course was Vice President under Thomas Jefferson and is well known for his duel with Secretary of the Treasury Alexander Hamilton which resulted in Hamilton’s death in 1804.  Benedict Arnold’s name is even more infamous as the Revolutionary War general who plotted to surrender the fort at West Point to the British in 1780.  After being found out he defected to the British Army.  His name to this day is synonymous with betrayal.  It was for this reason that I found it very fitting that a stone plaque which mentions Arnold’s stay at Fort Western was covered with graffiti. 

Another Stone near the Benedict Arnold one marks the site of the Cushnoc Trading Post which was in use from 1628-1661.  This trading post was established by the Pilgrims of Plymouth County in order to trade with the local Abenaki tribe of Native Americans.  The site of where this trading post once stood is an historic landmark as well thanks to the discovery of the post’s remains in an archaeological dig from 1984 to 1987.

One of the buildings at the Kennebec Arsenal.

            There is a splendid river walk, The Augusta Greenway Trail, which connects to the Kennebec River Rail Trail and leads to Fort Western along the Kennebec River.  It is here that you begin to feel how small the state capital is as I don’t know of many others that could make you feel so isolated at times as I did walking along the Kennebec.  The state capitol building’s dome poking up from the trees across the river was a magnificent sight that I believe can only be seen in Augusta.  As isolated as I felt during this walk it actually added to the mystique and overall experience when I came upon the Kennebec Arsenal.

            Comprised of eight granite buildings the Kennebec Arsenal is the most intact early 19^th century munitions depot in the country.  It was built between 1828 and 1838 and was built strategically on a hill with a fabulous view of the Kennebec River.  Though they are the most intact munitions depot buildings the Kennebec Arsenal looks every bit of its age.  I am not sure if it is natural aging and weathering or if it is vandalism but some of the granite buildings look like scenes from horror films.  Some of the buildings were partially obscured by small trees and shrub overgrowth while others were tucked behind chain link fence.  Personally I think it made it more of an experience for me since for the most part it was just myself and the eight buildings.  From the hillside I could see the state capitol building still; this was where I would end my trip to Augusta.

The State House seen from Capitol Park.

            Visiting a state capitol on a Sunday means that there is very little in the way of traffic in and around the buildings.  Before I took a stroll around the impressive capitol building I decided to get acquainted with it from afar.  The thirty-four acre Capitol Park, directly across the street from the capitol building, gives you a view that I was in awe of.  The trees are planted in such a way that there is a straight clearing from the park all the way up the steps of the capitol.  Words cannot describe it, a photo will do a little better job.

            After seeing it from this angle I decided to make a closer inspection of the Maine State Capitol.  Portland was actually the original state capitol of Maine, but it was moved to Augusta in 1832 because of its central location.  The building opened in 1832 and has the look of the United States Capitol in Washington D.C. with the domed roof and the many Romanesque columns. 

The Blaine House aka Governor's Mansion

            I was able to move rather freely around the grounds which gave me great perspectives.  To the left of the State Capitol is a modern three-story building which houses the state’s library, museum, and archives.  Behind the Capitol is the Burton Cross building which houses the Maine State Offices.  Cross was governor of Maine twice, from 1952 to 1955 save for one day due to the fact that his Senate term had ended 25 hours before his term as governor began.  It is a bit complicated for me to explain.

            Across Capitol Street sits the Executive Mansion, also known as the Blaine House.  The home of Maine’s governors the house was given to the state by Harriet Blaine Beale in 1919.  The house dates back to 1833 and the first governor to live in the mansion was Carl E. Miliken in 1920. 

            I was lucky enough to visit Augusta on a Sunday, making it very easy to get around.  This should not stop any visitor from coming here to see one of the smallest, yet most beautiful state capitols in the country.  The small town feel makes it more special, some state capitols feel out of reach due to their size, but Augusta is all right there for you to experience.  Make the time to see Fort Western and the Augusta Greenway Trail, and then check out Capitol Park and the spectacular view of the State House.  Have fun and happy traveling! 

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, and Amazon.com, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

     

Directions:  Fort Western:  On I-95 headed north take exit 109A, merge right onto Rt. 202.  At rotary take 3^rd exit to stay on Rt. 202.  At the next rotary take 4^th exit for Cony St., Fort is on left.

            Maine State House:  On I-95 headed north take exit 109A, merge right onto Rt. 202.  At rotary take 2^nd exit for State Street.  Capitol Park is across from State House with parking on the street.

References:  Capital Walks - The Augusta Greenway Trail

            Blaine House.org

            The Museum in the Streets - Augusta, ME

            Maine.gov

In My Footsteps: Trip 87: Rockland, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 87:  Rockland, Maine

October 2, 2010

            The next town over from where I stayed in Owl’s Head, Rockland, Maine is a popular tourist destination and it is easy to see why.  Called ‘Catawamteak’ by the local Abenaki Indian tribe which means ‘great landing place’ Rockland is a small town yet it has all of the amenities of a larger town.  It was known as Lermond’s Cove and then ‘Shore’ village from when it was settled in 1769 until adopting the name Rockland in 1850.

Wyeth Center, as seen from 'inside' a sculpture.

            Rockland originally made its name through shipbuilding and the production of the mineral lime.  However as time passed into the latter half of the 20^th century it became popular due to its amazing Main Street with many shops and restaurants.  There are also some really nice art galleries.  I checked out the Farnsworth Art Museum on Museum Street and enjoyed the outdoor collection on the rear lawn.

            The Museum specializes in Maine’s role in American art with pieces ranging from the 18^th to the 20^th century.  There is also a separate building across the street called the Wyeth Center which houses man paintings from the Wyeth family of artists who were all realist painters during the 20^th century.  If you want to see some nice sculptures while still being outside you can walk around the rear lawn and see some nice pieces.  I do not know much about art but I was able to appreciate what I saw so it should not deter any visitor from checking them out.

The original Knox County Courthouse c.1875

            A spot that might not be for everyone but is something that interested me is the Knox County Courthouse.  I enjoyed it because there is a very modern building attached to an older looking building.  The older building, the original Knox County Courthouse, was finished in March 1875 by W.H. Glover and Company at a shade under $62,000.  The new building is an addition to the Courthouse which was completed in 1979.  It is something to see the drastic differences in architectural styles in a hundred years.  The original Courthouse building has more of a personality while the new addition is much more to the point with little creativity to it.  Much like with art I do not know much about architecture but this striking difference is something that was quite apparent to me.

            The fabulous Main Street is one part small-town with many local establishments and shops adorning the one-way street.  Then it also has a sort of Broadway vibe due to some nice flashing neon signs for places like the Strand Theater.  There was one particular sign on the corner of Main and Elm Street for a restaurant that had the word ‘EAT’ spelled out diagonally twice, a total of five letters which lit up.  It ended up being a piece of art created by Robert Indiana attached to the Farnsworth Museum which I only found out while researching this article.  I saw it many times during my trip and it always gave off the Broadway vibe as I watched each letter light up one by one.  Things like that added to the brilliance of Rockland’s Main Street.

Rockland Breakwater, about halfway out.

            Any trip to Rockland must include the ocean, it is virtually impossible to journey here and not spend at least some time along the shore.  For those who might not want to do too much exploring there is the Rockland Harbor Park on Main Street.  Here there is a spectacular view of the harbor.  On this day there were still many small boats on the water as people held on to their summer fun even into October.  There is a nice harbor walk trail leading along the water around the harbor and out to a pier that you can walk out onto the water.

            At the entrance to the Harbor Park there is a really nice Fishermen’s Memorial.  It has a small anchor atop a large concrete slab with the year ‘1854’ behind it representing the year that Rockland was incorporated as a town.  Little things like this memorial reminded me that fisherman still risk their lives each and everyday that they go to work.

            The final spot I visited was the highlight of my trip to Rockland.  The Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse is a definite must see for any visitor.  The only thing that might hold some people back is the fact that the breakwater is just short of a mile in length.  For me it was a no-brainer that I would take a walk out to the lighthouse since the beam of light from the lighthouse continuously ran across the walls of the Wataview Cottage where I stayed right across the harbor.

Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse

            The walk out to the lighthouse is not that difficult, the breakwater is fairly level.  There were many people on the same path; some even brought their dogs with them.  Once I made it out to the light station I was excited to find out that I would be allowed to climb up into the lighthouse so I could see Rockland and Owl’s Head from forty-feet high.  It was too windy on this day to go outside at the top but the view was still out of this world.  I thought that coming from Cape Cod I might have been the furthest traveler at the lighthouse but I was surprised to talk to a couple from Quebec and another from Minnesota!

            The breakwater was built between 1881 and 1899 to protect the harbor and the lighthouse was built in 1902.  Despite it being a fairly sound location I was able to see old photos where the breakwater has been totally submerged under rising water.  I was glad it was a sunny day.  When the Coast Guard announced that they were going to tear down the lighthouse there was massive public outcry.  First the nearby Samoset Resort took over the responsibility for the lighthouse’s upkeep and then the Rockland City Council took over the same duties.  Today the lighthouse is safe from the wrecking ball.

            Rockland is a small town but it can also be referred to as a tourist destination, a waterfront town, an artsy community, and for a few thousand people it is home.  I highly recommend taking in the Farnsworth Art Museum, walk, shopping, and eating on Main Street.  Then you can get some sun and exercise walking out to visit the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse.  Have fun and happy traveling!

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!

    

Directions:  Farnsworth Art Museum:  Take Rt. 1 into Rockland, turn left at Main Street.  Take 4^th left onto Museum Street.  Museum is on left, parking on right.

            Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse:  Take Rt. 1 into Rockland, turn left at Main Street, follow it 1.4 miles.  Turn right at Waldo Ave., turn right at Samoset Rd., follow it to the end.  

References:  Wataview Cottage - Owl's Head, ME

Farnsworth Museum.org

            Rockland, ME - Official Site

            Rockland Main Street.com

            Friends of Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse

Rockport on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 84: Owl's Head, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 84:  Owl’s Head, Maine

October 2, 2010

            Throughout the majority of my trips I have taken I have always felt that there was never enough time to see all that I wanted to see.  Getting a chance to spend six days in Maine I thought would be a perfect way to correct that.  Now, after finishing up my trip to Maine I have found out that even six days was not enough to see what I had wanted to see.  That being said, my time in Maine was among the most fun that I have had in my life. 

The living room at Wataview

I owe a huge debt of thanks to my friend Steve Davis who allowed me to stay at his ‘Wataview’ home on Cottage Avenue in Owl’s Head.  This house has an amazing view of Rockland Harbor and the Breakwater Lighthouse.  What a thrill it was for me to be able to sit out on the enclosed porch after dark and simply enjoy the sight of the lighthouse lantern as it spun rhythmically across the water and into the windows.  It is available for rent up until the beginning of October and the website is included at the end of the article.

Owl’s Head is a small town in the mid-coast region of Maine.  It was first explored in 1605 by Samuel de Champlain and was called Bedabedec Point by the Abenaki tribe of Native Americans.  The name means ‘Cape of the Winds.’  The town got its name from mariners who thought the shape of the rock ridge where Owl’s Head Light currently stands looked like an owl.  Though it has over 400 years of history the town was not incorporated until 1921.

Birch Point Beach State Park

 I found Owl’s Head to be in many ways an absolutely perfect snapshot of what I always had thought Maine would look like to me.  After waking up to a beautiful sunrise over the harbor the first place I ventured out to was Birch Point Beach State Park.  This area is one that would qualify as ‘classic Maine’ with its outcropping of rocks lined with straight-as-towers pine trees stretching out into the cool Atlantic waters.

The road to the beach was closed so I needed to walk to get to the water.  This was a welcomed addition to my trip as it gave me a chance to take in the rapidly changing leaves whose colors were made even brighter by the strong morning sun.  The beach was magnificent as I hit it at low tide and was able to walk out on some of the dry rocks and get a great view of the Mussel Ridge Channel Islands which sit about a mile off shore.  This area ended up being the best possible starting point for my time in Maine and it only got better from here.

Entrance to the Transportation Museum

The next spot I visited was the Owl’s Head Transportation Museum located on Museum Street.  The drive from Birch Point to the museum was so amazing that I almost did not want it to end.  Everything shone from the sun, every home, every tree, it was all too perfect.  The Transportation Museum has an unbelievable collection of items, it is a day trip all in itself.  There are originals and replicas of aircraft dating all the way back to 1804.  The thirteen-inch unmanned glider built by the ‘Father of Aviation,’ Sir George Cayley, is replicated here.  It is amazing to see where aviation began to where it is today.

Owl's Head Harbor

The Museum also has an impressive collection of antique cars as well including a three-wheeled open air vehicle built by Karl Benz in 1885.  It looks incredibly out of place even among vehicles from thirty years later but there are many features to it which are still used in cars today.  I found the vehicles from the 19^th and very early 20^th century to be the most interesting mostly because of the history and how these awkward looking vehicles actually changed the world.

After leaving the Transportation Museum I headed to Owl’s Head State Park located on the northeast corner of the wide peninsula.  It is here that the spectacular Owl’s Head Lighthouse resides.  This area contains the rocky cliff that gave Owl’s Head its name, although it is impossible to see from where the lighthouse is situated.

Owl's Head Lighthouse

From the parking lot it is a short walk to the lighthouse itself.  The walk contains some more incredible views of the rocky cliffs and a gray sandy beach located near the parking lot.  Once you get to where the Coast Guard Station and Owl’s Head Lighthouse are the cliffs get much higher and the views include all of the surrounding area.

I found it odd yet thrilling that a lighthouse was built in such a spot.  Built in 1852 the lighthouse itself is only thirteen-feet tall yet it can be seen for miles because the light is 100 feet above sea level thanks to the gigantic cliffs.  The stairway which leads up to where the lighthouse sits made for some fantastic photo opportunities, and the view from the top was the perfect capper to my day in Owl’s Head.  The walk and the stairs should not deter anybody from paying this marvelous site a visit.

Although it is a small town population wise, and a new town as far as being officially recognized, Owl’s Head is filled with amazing places to see.  The Owl’s Head Transportation Museum is a day trip itself and is a must see.  I highly recommend paying a visit to Owl’s Head Lighthouse for the incredible views.  For a taste of what I believe is ‘classic Maine’ there is Birch Point Beach State Park.  If you see all of those places then I also recommend simply pointing your vehicle in any direction and taking a slow drive through the streets of this awesome little town.  Have fun and happy traveling!

*For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!

Directions:  Birch Point Beach State Park:  Take Rt. 1 into Rockland, turn right at Rt. 73, follow it 4 miles, turn left at Dublin Rd., turn right at Ballyhac Rd.  Follow it to signs for park, there is some parking if gate is closed.

            Owl’s Head Transportation Museum:  Take Rt. 1 into Rockland, turn right at Rt. 73, follow it almost 3 miles, turn left at Museum St., there is a sign for the museum at entrance.

            Owl’s Head Lighthouse:  Take Rt. 1 into Rockland, turn right at Rt. 73, follow it almost 2 miles, turn left at N. Shore Drive.  Turn left at Main St. near Post Office, turn left at Lighthouse Rd. follow it to parking lot.  

References:  Wataview Cottage, Owl's Head, ME

                Mussel Ridge Historical Society

            Owl's Head Transportation Musuem.org

            Owl's Head Official Town Site

            Owl's Head Light - Jeremy D'Entremont's New England Lighthouses