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Showing posts with label beverly. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beverly. Show all posts

Monday, October 11, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 76: Beverly, Mass.

In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund


Trip 76:  Beverly, Massachusetts
September 8, 2010

           
            The North Shore of Massachusetts, for those of you who may not have read any of my previous articles, is one of my favorite places to visit.  I always enjoy my time there and love it even more when I find unexpected beauty in a place I visit.  This was the case when I paid another visit to the town of Beverly, also known as ‘The Garden City.’
John Cabot House c.1781
            Originally a part of Salem, and named for a town in Yorkshire, England, Beverly can lay claim to a very important moment in American history.  Beverly is the birthplace of the American Industrial Revolution which began with the construction of the first cotton mill in 1787 or 1788.  To this day however, Beverly maintains that the first American vessel to engage the British in the Revolution, the Hannah, was built in, and first sailed from, Beverly.  They have so much faith in this that the Hannah is prominently featured on the police department’s patch.
John Hale House c.1694
The first spot I visited in Beverly was the John Cabot House on Cabot Street.  The house was the first brick house built in Beverly in 1781.  The house is only the beginning of the importance of the Cabot name in Beverly and before that in Boston.  The Cabot family lived in the Beacon Hill section of Boston and were one of the ‘Boston Brahmins’ or First Families of Boston.  The Cabot family’s first business in Boston upon their arrival from France was that of dory making, dory’s are small, shallow draft-boats.
Rear-view of Hospital Point Lighthouse
John Cabot who built the Cabot House I visited was one of the members of the family who made a fortune in privateering and banking.  In fact the house became the first office of the Beverly Bank in 1802 which is the tenth oldest bank in America.  John Cabot was one of its seven original directors.
There are many historic homes in Beverly, a lot of them have a very significant story to them like the Cabot House.  However, one that really caught my attention was the Rev. John Hale House on Hale Street.  Why is this house so important?  The Rev. John Hale was the pastor of the Church of Christ in Beverly during the Salem Witch Trials in 1692.  Hale was one of the most prominent figures associated with the Trails and is noted with having originally supported the Trials but then changing his mind.  He even wrote the book A Modest Enquiry into the Nature of Witchcraft in 1697 which challenged the legality and references to the Bible used in the Salem Witch Trials.  The house itself, in which Hale lived from 1694 until his death in 1700, is very unassuming but for its pale yellow exterior.  There are several large beech trees in the back of the house which are accompanied by an engraved stone explaining that they were planted in 1937 by the Beverly Improvement Society.
Rose Garden at Lynch Park
Another historic spot which is a little off the beaten path is Hospital Point Lighthouse.  Hard to find because it sits along side a private residence, this lighthouse takes its name from a smallpox hospital built on the spot in 1801.  The lighthouse itself is a rectangle which is different from the normal conic shape.  A watch house was built on the grounds all the way back in 1711.  The lighthouse looks out over Salem Sound and is clearly visible from the fence surrounding it.  However, it is on private land and thus cannot be seen any closer except on occasions when there are open houses.  The photos I took the first time I visited Beverly were from a stone wall at the end of Bayview Ave.  I would not recommend this to any traveler as there is a good forty-foot drop on the other side and a slip is always possible.  This more recent time I perched myself on a grassy knoll behind the house and got a few good shots while also respecting the private property.
My favorite spot that I saw while in Beverly actually came as a surprise to me.  I went to Lynch Park on Ober Street for the view of the shoreline that makes the North Shore famous.  However it was the rose garden located inside a sort of brick wall fortress that will be what stood out most for me as far as Beverly is concerned.
Rose Garden at Lynch Park
At one point there was a cottage which stood where the present day rose garden stands.  In the summers of 1909 and 1910 then-President William Howard Taft leased the cottage.  It was after the summer of 1910 that the Taft family was informed that the Evans family, which controlled the area then known as Burgess Point, planned to build an Italian rose garden on that spot.  The sunken rose garden with several brick steps leading down into the maze of flowers and beautifully manicured grass has been the sight of many weddings and other social gathering in its one hundred years of existence.  I was in awe of the sights and scents of the garden especially as the warm sun bathed the garden in bright light.
I cannot stress enough how impressive and beautiful this garden is.  Obviously it is best to be seen during the spring and summer when the flowers are in full bloom, I was lucky enough to stumble upon this place at the right time of the year.  Beverly adds yet another amazing town to my love affair with the North Shore of Massachusetts.  Make a list of the historic homes to visit and check out the great stories that go with each.  Don’t forget to take a drive by Hospital Point Light and absolutely make a lot of time to walk around the rose garden as well as the rest of the spectacular Lynch Park.  Have fun and happy traveling!

            For a short video of the rose garden at Lynch Park click here:  Lynch Park - Beverly, Ma. - YouTube

     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Hospital Point Lighthouse: Take Rt. 128 off of I-95.  Take Exit 18, turn right onto Rt. 22.  Turn left at Corning St.  Continue onto Bayview Ave.  Hospital Point Light is on the left at the end.
            Lynch Park:  From Rt. 128 north take Exit 18 for Rt. 22.  Turn right at Rt. 22, turn left at Corning St.  Turn right at Oceanside Dr., park will be straight ahead at the end of the road. 
                Lynch Park - Beverly Recreation
            Essex National Heritage Area
            Beverly, Ma. - Official Town Site

Monday, March 8, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 29: Swampscott, Marblehead, Beverly, Rockport, Mass.


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund

Trip 29: Swampscott, Marblehead, Beverly, & Rockport, Mass.
March 6, 2010

            The roughly seventy-five miles of coastline from Boston leading to the New Hampshire border is known as the North Shore.  This area is famous for its historic fishing villages and connections to the dawning of America.  Many of the twenty-two towns which make up the North Shore have immense cultural significance.  Names such as Ipswich, Gloucester, Essex, and Salem have meaning to people who don’t even live in this area.  This trip along the North Shore was a chance to experience these sites for myself and it ended up being even better than I had hoped.
            The journey began by leaving Route 1 for Route 129 and heading east into Swampscott.  This town is one of the most affluent in the state with one of the very first millionaires, Ebenezer Philips, making his fortune here.  Philips learned the process of drying fish from the local Naumkeag Indians which led to greater shelf life for the fish.  First settled as a part of neighboring Lynn in 1629, Swampscott has an amazing view of the Boston skyline(left) sitting twelve miles to the south across Nahant Bay and Broad Sound.  Beaches such as Preston Beach have great views of the many rock islands off of the coast of the North Shore.  These rocks give this area its own identity. 
            An historic spot to visit is the Elihu Thomson House.  Built in 1889 this home is now the Swampscott Town Hall but it was originally built for the noted inventor and industrialist Thomson who cofounded General Electric with Thomas Edison.
            Marblehead neighbors Swampscott and has some spectacular one of a kind areas to visit.  Chief among these is Chandler Hovey Park which is home to the incredible Marblehead Light(right), built in 1832.  Why is it so amazing?  It is the only lighthouse in New England with a skeletal structure as opposed to the classic cylindrical tower that is common.  The next light like Marblehead Light is at Coney Island.  The lighthouse stands tall on a cliff overlooking Marblehead Harbor, its green light visible for seven nautical miles. 
For the daring types you may attempt to scale down one of the rock faces into a sort of gulley that runs down to the edge of the water.  I did undertake this challenge and it was an incredible sight seeing Marblehead Light from down inside the rocks.  The constant crash of the waves on the rocky shore made it well worth any risk.  There are many benches and sheltered areas where one can simply sit and watch the boats entering the harbor, or just listen to the waves crashing on the rocks.
Marblehead, along with Beverly, has lay claim to being the birthplace of the United States Navy.  While both towns may have their own opinions there is no doubting the importance of Marblehead Harbor.  Beginning with the sailing of the Hannah in September, 1775, General George Washington gave orders for the first American vessels to engage the British during the American Revolution.  They were sailed and commanded by men of Marblehead and were the forerunners of the United States Navy.  Thus began the claim by the people of Marblehead that their town saw the birth of the Navy.
Abbot Hall, which is now Marblehead Town Hall as well, is filled with historic artifacts from the area.  Located inside the brick 19th Century building sits, among other things, the original Spirit of ’76 painting by Archiblad MacNeal Willard, the deed to Marblehead signed by the Nanapashemet Indians in 1684, and a painting of Marbleheaders rowing George Washington across the Delaware River.
A few miles north of Marblehead lies Beverly, the other claimant to the birth of the American Navy.  Originally a part of Salem, and named for a town in Yorkshire, England, Beverly can lay claim to a very important moment in American history.  Beverly is the birthplace of the American Industrial Revolution which began with the construction of the first cotton mill in 1787 or 1788.  To this day however, Beverly maintains that the first American vessel to engage the British in the Revolution, the Hannah, was built in, and first sailed from, Beverly.  They have so much faith in this that the Hannah is prominently featured on the police department’s patch.   
Another historic spot which is a little off the beaten path is Hospital Point Lighthouse(right).  Hard to find because it sits along side a private residence, this lighthouse takes its name from a smallpox hospital built on the spot in 1801.  A watch house was built on the grounds all the way back in 1711.  The lighthouse looks out over Salem Sound and is clearly visible from the fence surrounding it.  However, it is on private land and thus cannot be seen any closer except on occasions when there are open houses.
The northern most town visited on this trip was Rockport.  Located just past Gloucester, at the tip of Cape Ann, this area is a well known artist colony.  Rockport was a ‘dry town,’ meaning no alcohol was to be sold within its borders, until 2005.  This law goes back to the story of Hannah Jumper.  She led a revolt of 200 mothers, wives, and daughters in 1856 to destroy all of the liquor in town.  The reason for this was the fact that although fishing was a tremendous industry for Rockport, the Northeast’s weather only permitted it for nine months out of the year.  The other three months were spent by the men spending much of their hard-earned money on booze.  Ms. Jumper’s rebellion against the ‘demon rum’ led to Rockport being ‘dry’ for 149 years.
One particularly beautiful area of is Bearskin Neck.  A small corner of Rockport, Bearskin Neck is a collection of former fishing and lobster shacks that have been gradually transformed into shops and art galleries.  The most famous location of the Bearskin Neck is a dark red fishing shack on Bradley Wharf known as Motif #1(left).  It is America’s most painted building and got its name from art teacher Lester Hornby who proclaimed ‘What, Motif #1 again!’ when student after student chose the venerable shack as a subject for sketches.
These are only the tip of the iceberg as far as amazing areas located along the North Shore.  It is not a place that can be appreciated fully during a day trip, take it piece by piece.  The amazing, rocky coastline and many lighthouses keep the rich, fishing tradition alive in any visitor’s mind.  There is so much to see, make it a point to visit the North Shore the first chance you get.  Have fun and happy traveling!

To see video of some of the places listed check out my video at In My Footsteps - North Shore







Directions: Chandler Hovey Park/Marblehead Light: From Rt. 1 heading north, turn right at Essex St.  Continue onto Lincoln Ave. through the rotary.  Turn right at Ballard St.  Turn left onto Rt. 107, right onto Washington Street.  Left onto Rt. 1-A, right at Ocean St., left at Metropolitan Park St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave.  Turn right on Ocean Ave., left onto Harbor Ave., continue onto Ocean Ave., left at Follett St.
            Preston Beach, Swampscott: From Rt. 1 heading north, turn right at Essex St.  Continue onto Lincoln Ave. through the rotary.  Turn right at Ballard St.  Turn left onto Rt. 107, right onto Washington Street.  Left onto Rt. 1-A, right at Ocean St., left at Metropolitan Park St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave.  Drive 1 mile, beach is on right just before ‘Entering Marblehead’ sign.   
            Hospital Point Lighthouse: Take Rt. 128 off of I-95.  Take Exit 18, turn right onto Rt. 22.  Turn left at Corning St.  Continue onto Bayview Ave.  Hospital Point Light is on the left at the end.
            Bearskin Neck, Rockport: Take Rt. 128 off of I-95.  Stay on Rt. 128 through two rotaries and turn left onto Rt. 127.  Rt. 127 becomes Broadway, turn left at Mt. Pleasant Street. Bearskin Neck is on the right.