In My Footsteps: Trip 79: Swampscott, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 79:  Swampscott, Massachusetts

September 8, 2010

Formerly a getaway for the rich Swampscott still is filled with a wealth of history and natural beauty.  It was originally known as M'squ'ompskut which means ‘Standing Red Rock’ by the Native Americans.  Though not as much of a destination for the wealthy as it was at the turn of the 20^th century the town is one of the most affluent in the state.  One of the very first millionaires, Ebenezer Philips, made his fortune here in the late 18^th century.  Philips learned the process of drying fish from the local Naumkeag Indians which led to greater shelf life for the fish.  Swampscott became world famous in 1808 when Ebenezer Thorndike invented the lobster pot which revolutionized lobster harvesting.

The view of Boston from Swampscott

First settled as a part of neighboring Lynn in 1629, Swampscott has an amazing view of the Boston skyline as it sits only twelve miles to the south across Nahant Bay and Broad Sound.  A great place to take in the Boston skyline is along Humphrey Street.  I found an area just passed Cap’n Jacks Waterfront Inn with parking on the road, railings and stairs down to the shore.  On a clear day it gives you an amazing view of Boston as well as a classic taste of the North Shore with the many rocks dotting the coastline.  There is a small green park within sight of this area which is close to the Swampscott Yacht Club.  Other beaches such as Preston Beach on Atlantic Avenue give you more great views of the many rock islands off of the coast of the North Shore. 

I particularly enjoyed Preston Beach which is right on the border with Marblehead.  Though the parking area is small there is a lot of stuff to see.  First off there is a really cool sundial with large rectangular stones around a center stone circle.  The longitude and latitude of the area is noted as well as lines where the seasons would change.  Upon closer inspection there were also words inscribed on the sides of the center stone including the words ‘Be Inspired By Love,’ which was a nice touch.

Elihu Thomson House

            An historic spot to visit is the Elihu Thomson House.  Built in 1889 this home is now the Swampscott Town Hall but it was originally built for the noted inventor and industrialist Thomson who founded the Thomson-Houston Electric Company in 1880.  This development was important as twelve years later, in 1892, Thomson’s company merged with Thomas Edison’s Edison General Electric Company to form General Electric.  In addition to the enormous achievement of being a cofounder of General Electric Elihu Thomson was a prolific inventor with more than 700 patents to his name.  He also served as president of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (M.I.T) from 1920-1923 before his death in 1937.     

I enjoy checking out the various town and city halls as they normally are surrounded by items of historical significance such as war memorials.  Swampscott’s Town Hall is one of the most impressive, possibly because it was first a private residence.  Only the blue sign near the road gives away the fact that this building is used by the town.

Looking down Monument Avenue toward Nahant Bay.

As is the case with most other town and city halls the area surrounding the Elihu Thomson House was filled with other historic and beautiful spots.  The First Church in Swampscott, Congregational, established in 1845 is one such area just across the street from the Thomson House.  There is also a really nice rural rotary surrounded by flowers.  I enjoyed this spot because of the view you get looking down Monument Avenue toward Nahant Bay. 

John Humphrey House

Another historic home that needs to be seen is the John Humphrey House on Paradise Road.  With the oldest parts of the house having been built in 1637 it is a marvelous piece of early-American architecture.  It is said to have been built for John Humphrey who was the first Deputy Governor of the Massachusetts Colony under John Winthrop.  In addition to the fairly accurate depiction of period furnishings in the house there is also a secret room on the second floor.  This was built in case the family had to hide from an Indian attack, a sort of Colonial ‘panic room.’

Swampscott is yet another North Shore town that will enchant you with its views and historical sites.  The views of Boston from areas such as Preston Beach are amazing and will probably take up most of any visitor’s time.  However be sure to set aside a little time for the historic Elihu Thomson House and John Humphrey House.  They will not disappoint and neither will Swampscott.  Have fun and happy traveling! 

Directions:  Preston Beach: From Rt. 1 heading north, turn right at Essex St.  Continue onto Lincoln Ave. through the rotary.  Turn right at Ballard St.  Turn left onto Rt. 107, right onto Washington Street.  Left onto Rt. 1-A, right at Ocean St., left at Metropolitan Park St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave.  Drive 1 mile, beach is on right just before ‘Entering Marblehead’ sign.   

            Elihu Thomson House:  From Rt. 1A heading north take the 2^nd exit at rotary to continue on Rt. 1A.  Turn left at Market Street, staying on 1A.  Turn right at Broad St., staying on 1A.  Turn right at Elmwood St.  Elihu Thomason House/Town Hall is #22.

            John Humphrey House:  From Rt. 1A heading north take the 2^nd exit at rotary to continue on Rt. 1A.  Turn left at Market Street, staying on 1A.  Turn right at Broad St., staying on 1A.  Broad St. becomes Paradise Road, still stays Rt. 1A.  Humphrey House is #99.    

References:  Swampscott, Ma. - Official Town Site

           

In My Footsteps: Trip 77: Marblehead, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 77:  Marblehead, Massachusetts

September 8, 2010

            Marblehead is a one of a kind town in a one of a kind area known as the North Shore.  I have been through this town a few times and look forward to it more and more every time I visit.   The town was originally inhabited by the Naumkeag tribe of Native Americans but the people were devastated by what is believed to have been smallpox in the early 17^th century.  The town got its name from early settlers who mistook the granite ledges along the shore for marble.

Marblehead Harbor

Marblehead, along with neighboring Beverly, has lay claim to being the birthplace of the United States Navy.  While both towns may have their own opinions there is no doubting the importance of Marblehead Harbor.  Beginning with the sailing of the Hannah in September, 1775, General George Washington gave orders for the first American vessels to engage the British during the American Revolution.  They were sailed and commanded by men of Marblehead and were the forerunners of the United States Navy.  Thus began the claim by the people of Marblehead that their town saw the birth of the Navy.

Crocker Park, located on the western side of the harbor includes a plaque proclaiming George Washington’s Navy to have been manned by Marbleheaders during the Revolution.  However, there is so much more to this spot than a plaque.  The view across the harbor toward Marblehead Light is amazing, especially during the summer when the harbor is filled with boats.  The park got its name from Uriel Crocker who donated the nearly three acres of land to the town in 1885.  It has the classic granite boulder clusters scattered in among the grass which gives the park a distinct North Shore feel.

I started this article by saying that Marblehead is a one of a kind town.  That being said one of the things that makes it unique can also be looked upon as a problem and that is the maze-like quality of its streets.  Don’t get me wrong, having to be very cautious and driving slowly along the twists and turns of Marblehead made it easier to see more of the historic homes which line those streets.  Still, without my trusty GPS I might have had a much more difficult time making it from Point A to Point B.

Fort Sewall

Not far from Crocker Park is the equally amazing Fort Sewall.  The fort was built in 1742 as a defense against French Cruisers and named for Samuel Sewall who was Chief Justice of Massachusetts in 1814.  It is an earthen fort much like Fort Revere in Hull and Fort Taber in New Bedford.  I enjoyed my walk around the ground for several reasons.  One was the fort itself which is built into the hill and has some furniture and other items inside the barred windows.  I cannot say for certain if those things are from the period when the fort was in use, but it was neat to see something other than empty walls.  I also enjoyed my walk around Fort Sewall thanks to a perfectly stationed set of binoculars.  These were set up in an area giving a great close up view of Marblehead Light and a more surprising view of Bakers Island Light located about five miles from Fort Sewall on the outskirts of Salem Harbor.

Abbot Hall

     Abbot Hall, which is now Marblehead Town Hall as well, is filled with historic artifacts from the area.  Located inside the brick 19^th Century building sits, among other things, the original Spirit of ’76 painting by Archibald MacNeal Willard, the deed to Marblehead signed by the Naumkeag Indians in 1684, and a painting of Marbleheaders rowing George Washington across the Delaware River.  It is a beautiful building with its checkered clock tower, it is clearly visible from many places around the town and I found it a great backdrop for many photos of mine.

Marblehead Light

               As far as one of a kind sights in Marblehead there is one that stands above the others.  Standing majestically on the grounds of Chandler Hovey Park on the eastern side of the harbor is the incredible Marblehead Light, built in 1832.  Why is it so amazing?  It is the only lighthouse in New England with a skeletal structure as opposed to the classic cylindrical tower that is common.  The next lighthouse built similar to Marblehead Light is located at Coney Island in New York.  The lighthouse, which honestly looks like a disposable ink cartridge for a pen, stands tall on a cliff overlooking Marblehead Harbor, its green light visible for seven nautical miles.  It is my favorite lighthouse I have seen thus far and seem to not be able to control myself when snapping photos of it, almost like a paparazzo.

On my first trip to Marblehead Light I scaled down one of the rock faces into a sort of gully that runs down to the edge of the water and it was an incredible sight seeing Marblehead Light from down inside the rocks.  The constant crash of the waves on the rocky shore made it well worth any risk.  To enjoy this area you need not put life and limb at risk though, there are many benches and sheltered areas where one can simply sit and watch the boats entering the harbor, or just listen to the waves crashing on the rocks.  I did not attempt a repeat climb on my most recent trip, I was content just sitting on said benches and staring at the marvelous lighthouse.

A one of a kind town, Marblehead is quintessential North Shore.  It is one of my favorite places to visit for its historical significance and of course the amazing Marblehead Light.  Take your time navigating the streets but do not worry as it will only be more time spent enjoying all of the sights that this marvelous Massachusetts town has to offer.  Have fun and happy traveling!

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Chandler Hovey Park/Marblehead Light: From Rt. 1 heading north, turn right at Essex St.  Continue onto Lincoln Ave. through the rotary.  Turn right at Ballard St.  Turn left onto Rt. 107, right onto Washington Street.  Left onto Rt. 1-A, right at Ocean St., left at Metropolitan Park St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave.  Turn right on Ocean Ave., left onto Harbor Ave., continue onto Ocean Ave., left at Follett St.

            Crocker Park:  From Rt. 1A north continue onto Lynnway, at rotary take 2^nd exit for Lynn Shore Dr.  Continue onto Ocean St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave., turn left at Ocean Ave.  Turn right at Pleasant St., turn right at Washington St., turn right at Darling St.  Take quick left at Front St., right at Crocker Park Ln.

            Fort Sewall:  Follow Crocker Park directions.  Once on Front Street follow it half a mile, there is parking for the fort on the left, vehicles are not allowed near the fort grounds.

References:  Marblehead, Ma. - Birthplace of the American Navy

                Marblehead.org

            Fort Sewall - Essex Heritage.org

            Marblehead Light - New England Lighthouses

Marblehead on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 29: Swampscott, Marblehead, Beverly, Rockport, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 29: Swampscott, Marblehead, Beverly, & Rockport, Mass.

March 6, 2010

            The roughly seventy-five miles of coastline from Boston leading to the New Hampshire border is known as the North Shore.  This area is famous for its historic fishing villages and connections to the dawning of America.  Many of the twenty-two towns which make up the North Shore have immense cultural significance.  Names such as Ipswich, Gloucester, Essex, and Salem have meaning to people who don’t even live in this area.  This trip along the North Shore was a chance to experience these sites for myself and it ended up being even better than I had hoped.

            The journey began by leaving Route 1 for Route 129 and heading east into Swampscott.  This town is one of the most affluent in the state with one of the very first millionaires, Ebenezer Philips, making his fortune here.  Philips learned the process of drying fish from the local Naumkeag Indians which led to greater shelf life for the fish.  First settled as a part of neighboring Lynn in 1629, Swampscott has an amazing view of the Boston skyline(left) sitting twelve miles to the south across Nahant Bay and Broad Sound.  Beaches such as Preston Beach have great views of the many rock islands off of the coast of the North Shore.  These rocks give this area its own identity. 

            An historic spot to visit is the Elihu Thomson House.  Built in 1889 this home is now the Swampscott Town Hall but it was originally built for the noted inventor and industrialist Thomson who cofounded General Electric with Thomas Edison.

            Marblehead neighbors Swampscott and has some spectacular one of a kind areas to visit.  Chief among these is Chandler Hovey Park which is home to the incredible Marblehead Light(right), built in 1832.  Why is it so amazing?  It is the only lighthouse in New England with a skeletal structure as opposed to the classic cylindrical tower that is common.  The next light like Marblehead Light is at Coney Island.  The lighthouse stands tall on a cliff overlooking Marblehead Harbor, its green light visible for seven nautical miles. 

For the daring types you may attempt to scale down one of the rock faces into a sort of gulley that runs down to the edge of the water.  I did undertake this challenge and it was an incredible sight seeing Marblehead Light from down inside the rocks.  The constant crash of the waves on the rocky shore made it well worth any risk.  There are many benches and sheltered areas where one can simply sit and watch the boats entering the harbor, or just listen to the waves crashing on the rocks.

Marblehead, along with Beverly, has lay claim to being the birthplace of the United States Navy.  While both towns may have their own opinions there is no doubting the importance of Marblehead Harbor.  Beginning with the sailing of the Hannah in September, 1775, General George Washington gave orders for the first American vessels to engage the British during the American Revolution.  They were sailed and commanded by men of Marblehead and were the forerunners of the United States Navy.  Thus began the claim by the people of Marblehead that their town saw the birth of the Navy.

Abbot Hall, which is now Marblehead Town Hall as well, is filled with historic artifacts from the area.  Located inside the brick 19^th Century building sits, among other things, the original Spirit of ’76 painting by Archiblad MacNeal Willard, the deed to Marblehead signed by the Nanapashemet Indians in 1684, and a painting of Marbleheaders rowing George Washington across the Delaware River.

A few miles north of Marblehead lies Beverly, the other claimant to the birth of the American Navy.  Originally a part of Salem, and named for a town in Yorkshire, England, Beverly can lay claim to a very important moment in American history.  Beverly is the birthplace of the American Industrial Revolution which began with the construction of the first cotton mill in 1787 or 1788.  To this day however, Beverly maintains that the first American vessel to engage the British in the Revolution, the Hannah, was built in, and first sailed from, Beverly.  They have so much faith in this that the Hannah is prominently featured on the police department’s patch.   

Another historic spot which is a little off the beaten path is Hospital Point Lighthouse(right).  Hard to find because it sits along side a private residence, this lighthouse takes its name from a smallpox hospital built on the spot in 1801.  A watch house was built on the grounds all the way back in 1711.  The lighthouse looks out over Salem Sound and is clearly visible from the fence surrounding it.  However, it is on private land and thus cannot be seen any closer except on occasions when there are open houses.

The northern most town visited on this trip was Rockport.  Located just past Gloucester, at the tip of Cape Ann, this area is a well known artist colony.  Rockport was a ‘dry town,’ meaning no alcohol was to be sold within its borders, until 2005.  This law goes back to the story of Hannah Jumper.  She led a revolt of 200 mothers, wives, and daughters in 1856 to destroy all of the liquor in town.  The reason for this was the fact that although fishing was a tremendous industry for Rockport, the Northeast’s weather only permitted it for nine months out of the year.  The other three months were spent by the men spending much of their hard-earned money on booze.  Ms. Jumper’s rebellion against the ‘demon rum’ led to Rockport being ‘dry’ for 149 years.

One particularly beautiful area of is Bearskin Neck.  A small corner of Rockport, Bearskin Neck is a collection of former fishing and lobster shacks that have been gradually transformed into shops and art galleries.  The most famous location of the Bearskin Neck is a dark red fishing shack on Bradley Wharf known as Motif #1(left).  It is America’s most painted building and got its name from art teacher Lester Hornby who proclaimed ‘What, Motif #1 again!’ when student after student chose the venerable shack as a subject for sketches.

These are only the tip of the iceberg as far as amazing areas located along the North Shore.  It is not a place that can be appreciated fully during a day trip, take it piece by piece.  The amazing, rocky coastline and many lighthouses keep the rich, fishing tradition alive in any visitor’s mind.  There is so much to see, make it a point to visit the North Shore the first chance you get.  Have fun and happy traveling!

To see video of some of the places listed check out my video at In My Footsteps - North Shore

Directions: Chandler Hovey Park/Marblehead Light: From Rt. 1 heading north, turn right at Essex St.  Continue onto Lincoln Ave. through the rotary.  Turn right at Ballard St.  Turn left onto Rt. 107, right onto Washington Street.  Left onto Rt. 1-A, right at Ocean St., left at Metropolitan Park St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave.  Turn right on Ocean Ave., left onto Harbor Ave., continue onto Ocean Ave., left at Follett St.

            Preston Beach, Swampscott: From Rt. 1 heading north, turn right at Essex St.  Continue onto Lincoln Ave. through the rotary.  Turn right at Ballard St.  Turn left onto Rt. 107, right onto Washington Street.  Left onto Rt. 1-A, right at Ocean St., left at Metropolitan Park St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave.  Drive 1 mile, beach is on right just before ‘Entering Marblehead’ sign.   

            Hospital Point Lighthouse: Take Rt. 128 off of I-95.  Take Exit 18, turn right onto Rt. 22.  Turn left at Corning St.  Continue onto Bayview Ave.  Hospital Point Light is on the left at the end.

            Bearskin Neck, Rockport: Take Rt. 128 off of I-95.  Stay on Rt. 128 through two rotaries and turn left onto Rt. 127.  Rt. 127 becomes Broadway, turn left at Mt. Pleasant Street. Bearskin Neck is on the right.

References: Rockport - The Story of Hannah Jumper

            History of Hospital Point Lighthouse

            Thacher Island Twin Lights - Rockport

            Marblehead Magazine - Birthplace of the American Navy