In My Footsteps: Trip 85: Thomaston, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 85:  Thomaston, Maine

October 2, 2010

            The tiny old seaport of Thomaston amazed me with its quaint, peaceful feeling.  However it was the ‘Museum in the Streets,’ an absolutely brilliant idea, that made this trip stand out for me.  The ‘Museum’ consists of thirty panels strategically located in front of, or across the street from, important and historical sites in the town.  These panels made the entire town appear to me to be more of a scavenger hunt; it was such a fun experience.  

Replica of Gen. Knox's Montpelier.

            Located in the area around the St. George River, the land on which Thomaston stands was originally a trading post established in 1630.  The most famous name associated with Thomaston is that of General Henry Knox.  Knox was a Revolutionary War hero who played a pivotal role in the ‘Siege of Boston’ in 1775-76 by bringing captured cannons to Boston from Fort Ticonderoga along the shore of Lake Champlain.  He brought them by sled a distance of over 200 miles.

            Knox became a close friend of George Washington when he was a General and Washington made him the United States’ first Secretary of War once he was named the first President.  There are two separate forts named for him, one near Louisville, Kentucky and another located in Prospect, Maine.

The only remaining building from the original Montpelier estate.

Knox retired to Thomaston in 1795 to his estate called Montpelier.  That original mansion was torn down in 1871 after it had decayed and Knox’s oldest grandson had no desire to repair it.  The only building remaining from the original Montpelier estate is a small brick building which was used as the train station for the Knox and Lincoln Railroad.  That building currently houses the Thomaston Historical Society.

The current Montpelier Museum is a reconstruction located on a hill at the corner of Rt. 1 and Rt. 131.  It is a magnificent building at an equally magnificent location.  There is a parking area off to the right of the white building; I parked in front of it where there is a small turnoff.  The building looked to me a lot like the White House with the golden eagle above the front door.  It had that sort of regal air to it the way it stands above everything else around it.

Watts Hall

The only surviving building from the original Montpelier is one of the stops on the ‘Museum in the Streets.’  In actuality this building, despite being an original piece of history, is not as eye-catching as the replica of Montpelier.  If I had not been specifically looking for it I would not have known that the small brick building, built in 1795, had any sort of significance but for the oval sign on the façade which alerts you to the fact that this is more than just a run of the mill train station.

The ‘Museum in the Streets’ plaques are scattered all over the little town of Thomaston but the main cluster of them can be found along Main Street and Knox Street.  One historic site I checked out was Watts Hall on Main Street.  The building was erected and donated to the people of Thomaston by Captain Samuel Watts in 1890.  The interesting part of the story is the fact that in 1915 there was a tremendous fire in the stable located behind the building which caused the entire block to burn to the ground.  The current Watts Hall was rebuilt by Watts’ daughter Mary Jane in memory of her father.  The building is used for town meetings and the large auditorium on the second floor is used by several theater groups.

St. Baptist Episcopal on left, Thomaston Baptist on right.

Another spot on Main Street with an interesting story is the location of two churches.  The Thomaston Baptist Church and the St. John Baptist Episcopal Church have been good neighbors ever since they were first built in 1816.  The two institutions have come to symbolize the love and respect between all religions in the small town.  In fact when the Baptist church’s steeple burned down in the 1990’s the money to rebuild it was raised by all of the other religious groups in town.  This lesson of love and respect between religions was not lost on me during this time in the world.

The ‘Museum in the Streets’ comes to an end along the banks of the St. George River where there are four plaques arranged around a large wooden cross on a green.  The cross was erected in commemoration of Captain George Waymouth’s landing there on June 12, 1605.  One of the plaques I found most intriguing was the one which featured information about an old wooden toll bridge which once spanned the river to the west.  There is a normal paved bridge there now but the story is that north of where that bridge stands was an original Indian trading post established by the Pilgrims of Plymouth Colony in 1623.

Cross commemorating George Waymouth's landing.

Thomaston was also known as the town which built more ocean-going vessels than any other town in the entire country.  That fact surprised me when taking a drive around this little town.  It is amazing how much history, such as the building of all of those ships, happened in such a small place. 

There are a total of thirty plaques making up the ‘Museum in the Streets,’ many of those facing the place described on the plaque.  It is a fun way to learn about the history of a great little town, I never imagined during my trip to Maine that I’d been taking part in a sort of scavenger hunt, it was a lot of fun.  I highly recommend any visitor to the area take in the replica of General Knox’s Montpelier estate, breathe the salty air of the St. George River, and take some time to find all thirty of the plaques of the ‘Museum in the Streets.’  Have fun and happy traveling!

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Directions:  Montpelier Museum:  Take Rt. 1 into Thomaston, turn onto Rt. 131/High St.  Museum is on the left, parking is on left just beyond it.

            St. George River:  Take Rt. 1 into Thomaston, turn right at Knox Street which is next right after Watts Hall.  Follow it to the end.  There is a parking area which is where the final plaques and wooden cross are located.

            Watts Hall:  Take Rt. 1 into Thomaston.  Watts Hall is 110 Main Street/Rt. 1.  This is where a cluster of Museum plaques are located as well.

References:    Wataview Cottage - Owl's Head, Maine 

The Museum in the Streets - Thomaston

            General Knox Museum.org

                Thomaston Historical Society.com

               

In My Footsteps: Trip 77: Marblehead, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 77:  Marblehead, Massachusetts

September 8, 2010

            Marblehead is a one of a kind town in a one of a kind area known as the North Shore.  I have been through this town a few times and look forward to it more and more every time I visit.   The town was originally inhabited by the Naumkeag tribe of Native Americans but the people were devastated by what is believed to have been smallpox in the early 17^th century.  The town got its name from early settlers who mistook the granite ledges along the shore for marble.

Marblehead Harbor

Marblehead, along with neighboring Beverly, has lay claim to being the birthplace of the United States Navy.  While both towns may have their own opinions there is no doubting the importance of Marblehead Harbor.  Beginning with the sailing of the Hannah in September, 1775, General George Washington gave orders for the first American vessels to engage the British during the American Revolution.  They were sailed and commanded by men of Marblehead and were the forerunners of the United States Navy.  Thus began the claim by the people of Marblehead that their town saw the birth of the Navy.

Crocker Park, located on the western side of the harbor includes a plaque proclaiming George Washington’s Navy to have been manned by Marbleheaders during the Revolution.  However, there is so much more to this spot than a plaque.  The view across the harbor toward Marblehead Light is amazing, especially during the summer when the harbor is filled with boats.  The park got its name from Uriel Crocker who donated the nearly three acres of land to the town in 1885.  It has the classic granite boulder clusters scattered in among the grass which gives the park a distinct North Shore feel.

I started this article by saying that Marblehead is a one of a kind town.  That being said one of the things that makes it unique can also be looked upon as a problem and that is the maze-like quality of its streets.  Don’t get me wrong, having to be very cautious and driving slowly along the twists and turns of Marblehead made it easier to see more of the historic homes which line those streets.  Still, without my trusty GPS I might have had a much more difficult time making it from Point A to Point B.

Fort Sewall

Not far from Crocker Park is the equally amazing Fort Sewall.  The fort was built in 1742 as a defense against French Cruisers and named for Samuel Sewall who was Chief Justice of Massachusetts in 1814.  It is an earthen fort much like Fort Revere in Hull and Fort Taber in New Bedford.  I enjoyed my walk around the ground for several reasons.  One was the fort itself which is built into the hill and has some furniture and other items inside the barred windows.  I cannot say for certain if those things are from the period when the fort was in use, but it was neat to see something other than empty walls.  I also enjoyed my walk around Fort Sewall thanks to a perfectly stationed set of binoculars.  These were set up in an area giving a great close up view of Marblehead Light and a more surprising view of Bakers Island Light located about five miles from Fort Sewall on the outskirts of Salem Harbor.

Abbot Hall

     Abbot Hall, which is now Marblehead Town Hall as well, is filled with historic artifacts from the area.  Located inside the brick 19^th Century building sits, among other things, the original Spirit of ’76 painting by Archibald MacNeal Willard, the deed to Marblehead signed by the Naumkeag Indians in 1684, and a painting of Marbleheaders rowing George Washington across the Delaware River.  It is a beautiful building with its checkered clock tower, it is clearly visible from many places around the town and I found it a great backdrop for many photos of mine.

Marblehead Light

               As far as one of a kind sights in Marblehead there is one that stands above the others.  Standing majestically on the grounds of Chandler Hovey Park on the eastern side of the harbor is the incredible Marblehead Light, built in 1832.  Why is it so amazing?  It is the only lighthouse in New England with a skeletal structure as opposed to the classic cylindrical tower that is common.  The next lighthouse built similar to Marblehead Light is located at Coney Island in New York.  The lighthouse, which honestly looks like a disposable ink cartridge for a pen, stands tall on a cliff overlooking Marblehead Harbor, its green light visible for seven nautical miles.  It is my favorite lighthouse I have seen thus far and seem to not be able to control myself when snapping photos of it, almost like a paparazzo.

On my first trip to Marblehead Light I scaled down one of the rock faces into a sort of gully that runs down to the edge of the water and it was an incredible sight seeing Marblehead Light from down inside the rocks.  The constant crash of the waves on the rocky shore made it well worth any risk.  To enjoy this area you need not put life and limb at risk though, there are many benches and sheltered areas where one can simply sit and watch the boats entering the harbor, or just listen to the waves crashing on the rocks.  I did not attempt a repeat climb on my most recent trip, I was content just sitting on said benches and staring at the marvelous lighthouse.

A one of a kind town, Marblehead is quintessential North Shore.  It is one of my favorite places to visit for its historical significance and of course the amazing Marblehead Light.  Take your time navigating the streets but do not worry as it will only be more time spent enjoying all of the sights that this marvelous Massachusetts town has to offer.  Have fun and happy traveling!

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Chandler Hovey Park/Marblehead Light: From Rt. 1 heading north, turn right at Essex St.  Continue onto Lincoln Ave. through the rotary.  Turn right at Ballard St.  Turn left onto Rt. 107, right onto Washington Street.  Left onto Rt. 1-A, right at Ocean St., left at Metropolitan Park St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave.  Turn right on Ocean Ave., left onto Harbor Ave., continue onto Ocean Ave., left at Follett St.

            Crocker Park:  From Rt. 1A north continue onto Lynnway, at rotary take 2^nd exit for Lynn Shore Dr.  Continue onto Ocean St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave., turn left at Ocean Ave.  Turn right at Pleasant St., turn right at Washington St., turn right at Darling St.  Take quick left at Front St., right at Crocker Park Ln.

            Fort Sewall:  Follow Crocker Park directions.  Once on Front Street follow it half a mile, there is parking for the fort on the left, vehicles are not allowed near the fort grounds.

References:  Marblehead, Ma. - Birthplace of the American Navy

                Marblehead.org

            Fort Sewall - Essex Heritage.org

            Marblehead Light - New England Lighthouses

Marblehead on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 29: Swampscott, Marblehead, Beverly, Rockport, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 29: Swampscott, Marblehead, Beverly, & Rockport, Mass.

March 6, 2010

            The roughly seventy-five miles of coastline from Boston leading to the New Hampshire border is known as the North Shore.  This area is famous for its historic fishing villages and connections to the dawning of America.  Many of the twenty-two towns which make up the North Shore have immense cultural significance.  Names such as Ipswich, Gloucester, Essex, and Salem have meaning to people who don’t even live in this area.  This trip along the North Shore was a chance to experience these sites for myself and it ended up being even better than I had hoped.

            The journey began by leaving Route 1 for Route 129 and heading east into Swampscott.  This town is one of the most affluent in the state with one of the very first millionaires, Ebenezer Philips, making his fortune here.  Philips learned the process of drying fish from the local Naumkeag Indians which led to greater shelf life for the fish.  First settled as a part of neighboring Lynn in 1629, Swampscott has an amazing view of the Boston skyline(left) sitting twelve miles to the south across Nahant Bay and Broad Sound.  Beaches such as Preston Beach have great views of the many rock islands off of the coast of the North Shore.  These rocks give this area its own identity. 

            An historic spot to visit is the Elihu Thomson House.  Built in 1889 this home is now the Swampscott Town Hall but it was originally built for the noted inventor and industrialist Thomson who cofounded General Electric with Thomas Edison.

            Marblehead neighbors Swampscott and has some spectacular one of a kind areas to visit.  Chief among these is Chandler Hovey Park which is home to the incredible Marblehead Light(right), built in 1832.  Why is it so amazing?  It is the only lighthouse in New England with a skeletal structure as opposed to the classic cylindrical tower that is common.  The next light like Marblehead Light is at Coney Island.  The lighthouse stands tall on a cliff overlooking Marblehead Harbor, its green light visible for seven nautical miles. 

For the daring types you may attempt to scale down one of the rock faces into a sort of gulley that runs down to the edge of the water.  I did undertake this challenge and it was an incredible sight seeing Marblehead Light from down inside the rocks.  The constant crash of the waves on the rocky shore made it well worth any risk.  There are many benches and sheltered areas where one can simply sit and watch the boats entering the harbor, or just listen to the waves crashing on the rocks.

Marblehead, along with Beverly, has lay claim to being the birthplace of the United States Navy.  While both towns may have their own opinions there is no doubting the importance of Marblehead Harbor.  Beginning with the sailing of the Hannah in September, 1775, General George Washington gave orders for the first American vessels to engage the British during the American Revolution.  They were sailed and commanded by men of Marblehead and were the forerunners of the United States Navy.  Thus began the claim by the people of Marblehead that their town saw the birth of the Navy.

Abbot Hall, which is now Marblehead Town Hall as well, is filled with historic artifacts from the area.  Located inside the brick 19^th Century building sits, among other things, the original Spirit of ’76 painting by Archiblad MacNeal Willard, the deed to Marblehead signed by the Nanapashemet Indians in 1684, and a painting of Marbleheaders rowing George Washington across the Delaware River.

A few miles north of Marblehead lies Beverly, the other claimant to the birth of the American Navy.  Originally a part of Salem, and named for a town in Yorkshire, England, Beverly can lay claim to a very important moment in American history.  Beverly is the birthplace of the American Industrial Revolution which began with the construction of the first cotton mill in 1787 or 1788.  To this day however, Beverly maintains that the first American vessel to engage the British in the Revolution, the Hannah, was built in, and first sailed from, Beverly.  They have so much faith in this that the Hannah is prominently featured on the police department’s patch.   

Another historic spot which is a little off the beaten path is Hospital Point Lighthouse(right).  Hard to find because it sits along side a private residence, this lighthouse takes its name from a smallpox hospital built on the spot in 1801.  A watch house was built on the grounds all the way back in 1711.  The lighthouse looks out over Salem Sound and is clearly visible from the fence surrounding it.  However, it is on private land and thus cannot be seen any closer except on occasions when there are open houses.

The northern most town visited on this trip was Rockport.  Located just past Gloucester, at the tip of Cape Ann, this area is a well known artist colony.  Rockport was a ‘dry town,’ meaning no alcohol was to be sold within its borders, until 2005.  This law goes back to the story of Hannah Jumper.  She led a revolt of 200 mothers, wives, and daughters in 1856 to destroy all of the liquor in town.  The reason for this was the fact that although fishing was a tremendous industry for Rockport, the Northeast’s weather only permitted it for nine months out of the year.  The other three months were spent by the men spending much of their hard-earned money on booze.  Ms. Jumper’s rebellion against the ‘demon rum’ led to Rockport being ‘dry’ for 149 years.

One particularly beautiful area of is Bearskin Neck.  A small corner of Rockport, Bearskin Neck is a collection of former fishing and lobster shacks that have been gradually transformed into shops and art galleries.  The most famous location of the Bearskin Neck is a dark red fishing shack on Bradley Wharf known as Motif #1(left).  It is America’s most painted building and got its name from art teacher Lester Hornby who proclaimed ‘What, Motif #1 again!’ when student after student chose the venerable shack as a subject for sketches.

These are only the tip of the iceberg as far as amazing areas located along the North Shore.  It is not a place that can be appreciated fully during a day trip, take it piece by piece.  The amazing, rocky coastline and many lighthouses keep the rich, fishing tradition alive in any visitor’s mind.  There is so much to see, make it a point to visit the North Shore the first chance you get.  Have fun and happy traveling!

To see video of some of the places listed check out my video at In My Footsteps - North Shore

Directions: Chandler Hovey Park/Marblehead Light: From Rt. 1 heading north, turn right at Essex St.  Continue onto Lincoln Ave. through the rotary.  Turn right at Ballard St.  Turn left onto Rt. 107, right onto Washington Street.  Left onto Rt. 1-A, right at Ocean St., left at Metropolitan Park St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave.  Turn right on Ocean Ave., left onto Harbor Ave., continue onto Ocean Ave., left at Follett St.

            Preston Beach, Swampscott: From Rt. 1 heading north, turn right at Essex St.  Continue onto Lincoln Ave. through the rotary.  Turn right at Ballard St.  Turn left onto Rt. 107, right onto Washington Street.  Left onto Rt. 1-A, right at Ocean St., left at Metropolitan Park St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave.  Drive 1 mile, beach is on right just before ‘Entering Marblehead’ sign.   

            Hospital Point Lighthouse: Take Rt. 128 off of I-95.  Take Exit 18, turn right onto Rt. 22.  Turn left at Corning St.  Continue onto Bayview Ave.  Hospital Point Light is on the left at the end.

            Bearskin Neck, Rockport: Take Rt. 128 off of I-95.  Stay on Rt. 128 through two rotaries and turn left onto Rt. 127.  Rt. 127 becomes Broadway, turn left at Mt. Pleasant Street. Bearskin Neck is on the right.

References: Rockport - The Story of Hannah Jumper

            History of Hospital Point Lighthouse

            Thacher Island Twin Lights - Rockport

            Marblehead Magazine - Birthplace of the American Navy