In My Footsteps: The First Nantucket Trip

            After finally exploring Martha’s Vineyard for the first time in my life my thoughts quickly turned to making landfall on Nantucket.  Growing up I had heard that almost every square inch of Nantucket was historic, a slice of what Cape Cod was long ago.  When I got a chance to go and visit I could not wait to see if the island lived up to all of the lofty praise.  I am glad to say it definitely did.

            Nantucket lies thirty miles off of the shore of Cape Cod, a much longer trip than to The Vineyard.  Luckily the Steamship Authority ran a special on round-trip tickets on the high speed ferry.  This meant I could enjoy a quick hour long trip each way rather than the usual

Brant Point

two hours plus on the regular ferry.  One word of warning though about the high speed ferry, yes it is a much faster ride but it will be very windy and you will get spritzed with water if you’re close to either side.

            From the moment the ferry docked I began to feel what everyone had always told me about Nantucket.  Broad Street was the entrance to the island and I had to stop and look around to soak in the atmosphere much like I did when stepping foot upon Martha’s Vineyard.  Also like The Vineyard I did my research on where to rent a bicycle and chose Young’s Bicycle Shop, a very good choice, I recommend them.  A quick check of my bike and I was on my way.

            Even though Nantucket is smaller in size than The Vineyard there is just as much to be seen and not enough time to see it all.  Luckily the first place I wanted to visit was only a short pedal away.  Brant Point Lighthouse on Easton Street is a perfect way to start a day on Nantucket.  For me who loves lighthouses it’s a perfect spot no matter the time. 

            If the lighthouse looks familiar you may have seen replicas of it on the shore of Lewis Bay in Hyannis, Massachusetts, or at the Mystic Seaport in Mystic, Connecticut.  It is also one of the most photographed lighthouses in the country.  How could one resist with the light’s diminutive stature and long railings stretching out before it? 

Despite its fame the current Brant Point Light is hardly the first on the site.  In actuality the current lighthouse is the tenth light on the site and seventh tower.  The most recent lighthouse before the current one sits only a few hundred feet away on the ground of the Coast G

Middle Moors Serengeti

uard Station.  The taller tower, deactivated upon building the current tower in 1901 is missing its lantern and is now used as an office and radio room.

There are so many places to see in the downtown area of Nantucket and I wanted to make sure that I set aside enough time for that, however before that I wanted to head east.  I wanted to head to the village of Siasconset or ‘sconset as locals call it.  This is where some of the most beautiful views on the island are located.  To get there I had to take my bike to the ‘sconset Bike Path which parallels Milestone Road all the way to the coast.

I had tunnel vision along the bike path, wanting badly to see the ‘sconset Bluff Walk and Sankaty Head Lighthouse.  However something caught my eye and caused me to make an unscheduled stop.  Off to my left was something that looked straight out of an African Safari.  I had stumbled upon the Middle Moors Serengeti of Nantucket.  What exactly is it?  The Middle Moors Serengeti is a 400-acre plain with scattered trees and vegetation.  Altar Rock, a hundred feet above sea level, provides a view of almost the entire island it seems.  This unscheduled stop will be a destination for sure on my next trip to Nantucket.

Continuing on the ‘sconset Bike Path leads you to a rural rotary near the Siasconset Old Historic District.  A turn down Gully Road brings two amazing spots into view.  First is the Sconset Footbridge, the other is ‘sconset Beach.  The Sconset Footbridge is a ninety-foot long wooden bridge stretching over the road which was built in the late-19^th century by well known Siasconset architect Charles H. Robinson.  Climbing the stairs and standing above the road there is a breathtaking view of ‘sconset Beach at the end of the road.    

A view from the 'sconset Bluff Walk

I had to leave my bike behind for the next area that was on my list, the ‘sconset Bluff Walk.  It is a slightly off the beaten path gem on Nantucket.  To get to it one has to go up a shielded walkway just off of Bank Street.  Once at the top you are in for a treat.  The footpath leads you along the outskirts of beautifully manicured homes on the left side and gives you increasingly incredible views of the beach on the right side.  Just after the summer ended the homes are mostly vacant but the weather is still good enough that the landscape is green and flowers still in bloom.  It is difficult to describe this place and do it justice, it is something that has to be experienced.

A short ride north from the Bluff Walk is Sankaty Head Lighthouse overlooking Sankaty Head Golf Course to the west and the ocean close by to the east.  The red and white striped lighthouse was originally built in 1850 and was moved back from the eroding cliffs in 2007.  When first lit in 1850 Sankaty Head Light was visible 20-miles away making it the most powerful lighthouse in New England.  This is a beautiful area with only the ocean waves making noise and the views are spectacular across the neighboring golf course toward the Milestone Cranberry Bog an

Sankaty Head Light

d Middle Moors.

After visiting Siasconset it was time to head back on the bike path to downtown Nantucket to see what everyone had told me about.  I could go on and on about the beautiful historic buildings and charming cobblestone streets but probably not do them justice.  The one spot I want to mention that is a unique way to check out Nantucket is the First Congregational Church on Centre Street.

It is a beautiful nearly 300-year old building and most churches make for great photo opportunities, however there is something else about this building that makes it a ‘must see.’  For a small donation one can climb the ninety-four steps to the top of the church tower for a view of Nantucket Harbor that has to be seen to be believed.  The original tower and bell were removed when the church was moved to its current location in 1834; the current tower was built in 1968.  There is always someone at the top to answer any questions and give a history of the tower and what you can see as you look out of the windows at the surrounding area.  It is well worth the hike up the stairs.

My first visit to the island of Nantucket lived up to all of the hype that I had heard.  It is every bit a throwback to another time with the cobblestone streets downtown.  It seemed as though every single house I saw during my time there was beautiful and historic.  I loved ‘sconset and even the l

View of Nantucket Harbor from inside First Congregational Church tower.

ong ride on the bike path was a pleasure.  I already cannot wait for my second trip to Nantucket which will not be too far off.  Have fun and happy traveling!

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Brant Point Lighthouse: From the ferry head down Broad St., take 2^nd right onto S. Beach St.  After .2 miles turn right onto Easton St., follow it to the end.

            First Congregational Church:  From the ferry head down Broad St., take 2^nd right onto S. Beach St., after .2 miles turn left onto Easton St., continue onto Chester St., turn left onto Centre St., church is on right.

            ‘sconset Bluff Walk:  From the ferry head down Broad Street, turn left onto S. Water St., continue onto Washington St., follow .3 miles turn right onto Francis St., turn left onto Union St.  Turn left onto Lower Orange St., at rotary take 3^rd exit for Milestone Rd., follow 6 miles, continue onto Main Rd.  At rotary take 1^st exit for Ocean Ave., slight left onto Gully Rd., continue onto Codfish Park Rd., continue onto N Gully Rd.  Follow it to a curve, straight ahead will be pathway to Bluff Walk.

            Sankaty Head Lighthouse:  From the ferry head down Broad Street, turn left onto S. Water St., continue onto Washington St., follow .3 miles turn right onto Francis St., turn left onto Union St.  Turn left onto Lower Orange St., at rotary take 3^rd exit for Milestone Rd., follow 6 miles, continue onto Main St., at rotary continue straight to stay on Main St.  Turn left onto Broadway and slight right onto Shell St., continue onto Sankaty Rd., follow .7 miles turn right onto Bayberry Lane, turn left onto Baxter Rd., follow it to end.

References:  Nantucket Conservation.org - Middle Moors Serengeti

            Nantucket Historical Association.org

            Nantucket.net

Nantucket on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 99: New Bedford, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 99:  New Bedford, Massachusetts

December 2, 2010

            An historic seaport matched in importance only Gloucester that’s what New Bedford is.  Nicknamed ‘The Whaling City’ it was one of the largest whaling ports in the world during the 19^th century.  That history is still a big part of what makes New Bedford a popular destination for travelers.  However the whaling history is only the tip of the iceberg as I was pleased to learn.  In addition to the New Bedford Whaling Museum there are forts, historic homes, and some extraordinary cobblestone streets.

Fort Rodman, Clarke's Point Light on top.

            The first place I visited when I arrived in New Bedford was a pair of old forts strategically placed on Clarke’s Point, the southernmost point of the city which sticks out into Buzzards Bay.  Fort Taber is a living breathing artifact.  It is two buildings, an earthen fort and granite fort side by side along the breezy shores.  The earthen fort was built during the Civil War in 1861.  It was built first as Governor John Andrew and Mayor Issac Taber could not wait for state or federal aid to help build the granite fort at the dawning of the Civil War.

The much larger, granite structure next to the earthen fort was started shortly thereafter; the United States War Department stopped construction in 1871.  It was locally finished in 1898 and named Fort Rodman after Civil War Lt. Col. Logan Rodman of New Bedford.  The Clark’s Point Lighthouse, which once stood alongside the granite structure, was placed on the second tier of the fort and is easily visible today.   The many windows of Fort Rodman have been sealed shut using brick.  However there have been holes chipped into these bricks making it possible to see inside and even for me to get my camera inside to snap photos of the courtyard.

Garden at Rotch-Jones-Duff Museum

Despite being two different buildings with two different names, the area is usually mistakenly simply called Fort Taber.  The granite fort is kept under lock and key but the earthen fort can be entered, though beware as vandals have sprayed graffiti inside and littered as well.  It is not as large as Fort Revere in Hull but walking through the darkened tunnels of this fort is creepy yet exhilarating.  You can almost feel what it was like when the fort was active 150 years ago.

Butler Flats Light

Not to be missed is a spark plug lighthouse known as Butler Flats Light.  It is quite a ways out if you walk the long pier which stretches out from Clarke’s Point.  It is a lot closer to shore as you’re leaving the forts.  There are a few spots to stop along East Rodney French Boulevard where you can get a much better view of the lighthouse at the mouth of the Acushnet River.  Built in 1898 Butler Flats Light was the replacement for Clarke’s Point Light.  That lighthouse stood along the shore from 1799 until 1869.  Once Fort Rodman had taken shape a new wooden structure was built on top of it where the lantern was relocated.  The stone lighthouse tower stood until 1906. 

One really nice historic home in New Bedford is the Rotch-Jones-Duff House.  It was built in 1834 for a whaling merchant named William Rotch Jr.  The house has three names, one for each of the families that lived at the house at different times.  The Rotch family obviously when it was first built in 1834, the Jones family starting in 1851, and the Duff family starting in 1935.

New Bedford Whaling Museum

The house has a more golden yellow color which looked impressive with the sun softly shining on it.  However the best part of this twenty-eight room mansion actually is outside where the amazing garden resides.  The garden encompasses a full city block and even in the late autumn it was a sight to behold.  It is said that the current garden is more in line with the time that the Jones family lived here.  There is a knee-high hedge maze which wraps around patches of beautiful flowers, some of which were still colorful even at this late stage of the season.  I would put this location on my list when planning a visit to New Bedford in the warmer months.

One area that needs no time frame to be enjoyed is a virtual time warp back to the 19^th century.  In the historic district of New Bedford, near the waterfront, there is a block of streets which are still lined with cobblestones.  Just walking these streets is a magical experience but when that is coupled with the fact that nearly every building you pass is significant it makes it a nearly perfect place to explore.

The Whaleman's Chapel from Moby Dick

Of course most people know of the New Bedford Whaling Museum, established in 1903, it is probably the most visited spot in the entirety of New Bedford.  Inside there are more than 200,000 artifacts from the past few centuries which give a complete history of the whaling industry in New Bedford and the entire ‘Old Dartmouth’ area.  This museum is a must see for all visitors.

The home of another rich whaling and banking industry pioneer Andrew Robeson is famous for having its 500 ton frame moved some 400 feet in 1978.  The federal-style(brick) home built in 1821 was in line to be torn down in the name of progress but it was saved by the Waterfront Historic Area LeaguE(WHALE).  It was painstakingly moved inch by inch from Second Street and turned ninety degrees before it came to rest at its current locale on Williams St.  That story is enough to warrant a visit when passing through New Bedford.

The cobblestone historic district has so much to see that it would be impossible to list it all.  I can only tell you to park and walk, you will be sure to find some amazing places.  Of course the Whaling Museum needs to be seen and don’t forget the historic forts out at Clarke’s Point.  New Bedford is one of the most historic seaports in the country and I can’t recommend a visit enough.  Have fun and happy traveling!    

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Directions:  Fort Taber/Rodman: From I-195 West take Exit 15 into New Bedford.  Follow John F Kennedy Memorial Highway until you need to bear right onto Rodney French Blvd.  The Fort Taber/Rodman site is on the right at the end of the road.

            Rotch-Jones-Duff Museum:  From I-195 take Exit 15, continue onto JFK Memorial Highway for 1.7 miles, turn right at Union St., turn left at 7^th St., follow it .2 miles to house on right.

            New Bedford Whaling Museum:  From I-195 take Exit 15, continue onto JFK Memorial Highway for 1.5 miles, turn right at Elm St.  Take the 2^nd left onto 1^st St., museum is on left.  

References:  Rotch-Jones-Duff Museum.org

Fort Taber.org

            New Bedford Whaling Museum