In My Footsteps: Trip 99: New Bedford, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 99:  New Bedford, Massachusetts

December 2, 2010

            An historic seaport matched in importance only Gloucester that’s what New Bedford is.  Nicknamed ‘The Whaling City’ it was one of the largest whaling ports in the world during the 19^th century.  That history is still a big part of what makes New Bedford a popular destination for travelers.  However the whaling history is only the tip of the iceberg as I was pleased to learn.  In addition to the New Bedford Whaling Museum there are forts, historic homes, and some extraordinary cobblestone streets.

Fort Rodman, Clarke's Point Light on top.

            The first place I visited when I arrived in New Bedford was a pair of old forts strategically placed on Clarke’s Point, the southernmost point of the city which sticks out into Buzzards Bay.  Fort Taber is a living breathing artifact.  It is two buildings, an earthen fort and granite fort side by side along the breezy shores.  The earthen fort was built during the Civil War in 1861.  It was built first as Governor John Andrew and Mayor Issac Taber could not wait for state or federal aid to help build the granite fort at the dawning of the Civil War.

The much larger, granite structure next to the earthen fort was started shortly thereafter; the United States War Department stopped construction in 1871.  It was locally finished in 1898 and named Fort Rodman after Civil War Lt. Col. Logan Rodman of New Bedford.  The Clark’s Point Lighthouse, which once stood alongside the granite structure, was placed on the second tier of the fort and is easily visible today.   The many windows of Fort Rodman have been sealed shut using brick.  However there have been holes chipped into these bricks making it possible to see inside and even for me to get my camera inside to snap photos of the courtyard.

Garden at Rotch-Jones-Duff Museum

Despite being two different buildings with two different names, the area is usually mistakenly simply called Fort Taber.  The granite fort is kept under lock and key but the earthen fort can be entered, though beware as vandals have sprayed graffiti inside and littered as well.  It is not as large as Fort Revere in Hull but walking through the darkened tunnels of this fort is creepy yet exhilarating.  You can almost feel what it was like when the fort was active 150 years ago.

Butler Flats Light

Not to be missed is a spark plug lighthouse known as Butler Flats Light.  It is quite a ways out if you walk the long pier which stretches out from Clarke’s Point.  It is a lot closer to shore as you’re leaving the forts.  There are a few spots to stop along East Rodney French Boulevard where you can get a much better view of the lighthouse at the mouth of the Acushnet River.  Built in 1898 Butler Flats Light was the replacement for Clarke’s Point Light.  That lighthouse stood along the shore from 1799 until 1869.  Once Fort Rodman had taken shape a new wooden structure was built on top of it where the lantern was relocated.  The stone lighthouse tower stood until 1906. 

One really nice historic home in New Bedford is the Rotch-Jones-Duff House.  It was built in 1834 for a whaling merchant named William Rotch Jr.  The house has three names, one for each of the families that lived at the house at different times.  The Rotch family obviously when it was first built in 1834, the Jones family starting in 1851, and the Duff family starting in 1935.

New Bedford Whaling Museum

The house has a more golden yellow color which looked impressive with the sun softly shining on it.  However the best part of this twenty-eight room mansion actually is outside where the amazing garden resides.  The garden encompasses a full city block and even in the late autumn it was a sight to behold.  It is said that the current garden is more in line with the time that the Jones family lived here.  There is a knee-high hedge maze which wraps around patches of beautiful flowers, some of which were still colorful even at this late stage of the season.  I would put this location on my list when planning a visit to New Bedford in the warmer months.

One area that needs no time frame to be enjoyed is a virtual time warp back to the 19^th century.  In the historic district of New Bedford, near the waterfront, there is a block of streets which are still lined with cobblestones.  Just walking these streets is a magical experience but when that is coupled with the fact that nearly every building you pass is significant it makes it a nearly perfect place to explore.

The Whaleman's Chapel from Moby Dick

Of course most people know of the New Bedford Whaling Museum, established in 1903, it is probably the most visited spot in the entirety of New Bedford.  Inside there are more than 200,000 artifacts from the past few centuries which give a complete history of the whaling industry in New Bedford and the entire ‘Old Dartmouth’ area.  This museum is a must see for all visitors.

The home of another rich whaling and banking industry pioneer Andrew Robeson is famous for having its 500 ton frame moved some 400 feet in 1978.  The federal-style(brick) home built in 1821 was in line to be torn down in the name of progress but it was saved by the Waterfront Historic Area LeaguE(WHALE).  It was painstakingly moved inch by inch from Second Street and turned ninety degrees before it came to rest at its current locale on Williams St.  That story is enough to warrant a visit when passing through New Bedford.

The cobblestone historic district has so much to see that it would be impossible to list it all.  I can only tell you to park and walk, you will be sure to find some amazing places.  Of course the Whaling Museum needs to be seen and don’t forget the historic forts out at Clarke’s Point.  New Bedford is one of the most historic seaports in the country and I can’t recommend a visit enough.  Have fun and happy traveling!    

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Fort Taber/Rodman: From I-195 West take Exit 15 into New Bedford.  Follow John F Kennedy Memorial Highway until you need to bear right onto Rodney French Blvd.  The Fort Taber/Rodman site is on the right at the end of the road.

            Rotch-Jones-Duff Museum:  From I-195 take Exit 15, continue onto JFK Memorial Highway for 1.7 miles, turn right at Union St., turn left at 7^th St., follow it .2 miles to house on right.

            New Bedford Whaling Museum:  From I-195 take Exit 15, continue onto JFK Memorial Highway for 1.5 miles, turn right at Elm St.  Take the 2^nd left onto 1^st St., museum is on left.  

References:  Rotch-Jones-Duff Museum.org

Fort Taber.org

            New Bedford Whaling Museum

In My Footsteps: Trip 66: Rochester, Mass.

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In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 66:  Rochester, Mass.

July 22, 2010

            Rochester is a town so close to Cape Cod yet with such a different atmosphere to it.  Perhaps it is the rural setting, or the beautiful farmland spotted all over.  When doing these trips sometimes it is best not to ask why a place has a feel to it, but rather to just enjoy that feeling while you are there.

Statue in front of the Town Library

            Once including the neighboring towns of Mattapoisett and Marion, Rochester was a thriving shipbuilding and whaling community using Mattapoisett Harbor as a base.  However once Mattapoisett and Marion became their own separate towns in the early 1850’s Rochester became the rural and residential area that it is today.

Distance marker at Town Common

            A perfect place to start in Rochester is the Town Common where I began by taking a look at where I was in relation to the rest of the state.  At the town common is a really neat looking town and distance sign standing over an old well pump and trough.  The sign has markings for towns as far away as Providence and Boston and gives a cool perspective on where Rochester sits.  The pump was neat as well until I tried using it and was greeted with a couple of bees.  I am assuming that the abandoned pump is used as a hive now but did not feel like sticking around to find out for certain.

            Located on the Town Common is the Town Hall, built in 1892, and the Public Library.  The library I enjoyed because of an adorable bronze statue outside.  It depicted a pair of children reading a book with the little girl showing the boy the letter B in the alphabet.  Not far from where the bronze children sat was a marker shadowed by some bushes.  This marker tells of the site nearby where the first Rochester Meeting House was erected in 1699. 

Remains of Hartley Mill Dam

            Rochester has many small ponds for swimming which I made sure to stop by to enjoy the summer breezes.  Mary’s Pond on Perry’s Lane was one such place.  The parking area was deserted which allowed me to park front and center and make my way to the water’s edge for some beautiful sightseeing.  The Sippican River marks its beginning as an outflow from this pond.  Leonard’s Pond and Snipatuit Pond also have many great sights to take in but one pond I searched for gave me something totally different.

            I searched for Hartley Mill Pond but instead came upon an overgrown field with scattered wood or so I thought.  What this spot on Hartley Road ended up being was the old Hartley Mill Dam.  It was difficult to make out how this dam actually worked back when it was operational but finding it was a cool little sidetrack.  It turned out, at least from the Google Maps, that the Hartley Mill Pond was near the dam’s location but really not large enough to be anything worth making a stop for.      

Barns at Eastover Farm

            Fittingly the last place I stopped in Rochester was a farm.  Eastover Farm is located on Mary’s Pond Road and is a perfect spot to get a glimpse of the feeling that Rochester has.  The seventy-five acres of land are dotted with a few beautiful looking houses and barns, they all share the same golden color.  The land on which the current farm stands was once owned and built up by New York businessman Charles H. Leonard in the mid-19^th century.  The pond which lies to the north of the farmland is named for Mr. Leonard.

            Eastover Farm has a wonderful farm stand that is full of home made items to purchase.  In addition to the fresh grown vegetables and fruits the farm stand also has homemade jams and jellies, fudge, pies, breads, and other delicious temptations.  If the farm stand does not lure you in there are also hay rides and parties can be booked on the vast fields.

            The peaceful feeling I got during my time in Rochester was what I will take away from my trip.  The beautiful ponds and the smell of the pine trees made me want to stop and sit for a while to enjoy them.  It is a perfect place to bring a picnic lunch when it is warm enough.  Take a walk around the Town Common and gaze at the distance marker along the road.  Don’t forget to make time to take in all of what Eastover Farm has to offer and take something sweet home with you.  No matter how you slice it, Rochester is a great little town with a lot of great sights, smells, and tastes to offer.  Have fun and happy traveling!



     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Town Common:  From I-195 west take Exit 20, turn left at Rt. 105, follow Rt. 105 2.5 miles.  Town common is on the left.

            Eastover Farm:  From I-195 heading west take Exit 21 for Rt. 28.  Turn right at Rt. 28, take left at Tobey Rd., turn right at Main Street.  Take a slight left at Fearing Hill Road, continue onto Mary’s Pond Rd.  Turn right at Hiller Road, Eastover Farm is on the right.

References:  Eastover Farm.com

            Rochester, Ma. - Official Town Site

           

In My Footsteps: Trip 8: New Bedford, Fairhaven, Mattapoisett

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 8: Fort Taber/Rodman – New Bedford, Mass.

Fort Phoenix – Fairhaven, Mass.

Ned’s Point Light – Mattapoisett, Mass.

January 22, 2010



Massachusetts being one of the thirteen original colonies is a state rich in history. Every town in the state has its own list of historical places to visit. There are so many places in fact that it is possible to visit any of Massachusetts towns several times and still miss some amazing historical places. There are three mentioned here today that are must see, but they are by no means the last I will seek out.

Located only a half hour from the Bourne Bridge, New Bedford is overflowing with historical places. Deep in the tradition of the sea the New Bedford Whaling Museum, established in 1907, is normally the first spot circled on any itinerary as well it should be. The cobblestone streets and old-time looking shops in the surrounding area make it feel as though you have traveled back to another time. After visiting the museum there are many other places just as rich in significance in New Bedford. One such place is located at the end of Rodney French Boulevard on Clarks Point along Buzzards Bay.

Fort Taber is a living breathing artifact. It is two buildings, an earthen fort and granite fort side by side along the breezy shores. The earthen fort(left) was built during the Civil War in 1861. It was built first as Governor John Andrew and Mayor Issac Taber could not wait for state or federal aid to help build the granite fort at the dawning of the Civil War.

The much larger, granite structure(right) next to the earthen fort was started shortly thereafter; the United States War Department stopped construction in 1871. It was locally finished in 1898 and named Fort Rodman after Civil War Lt. Col. Logan Rodman of New Bedford. The Clark’s Point Lighthouse, which once stood alongside the granite structure, was placed on the second tier of the fort and is easily visible today. Despite being two different buildings with two different names, the area is usually mistakenly simply called Fort Taber. The granite fort is kept under lock and key but the earthen fort can be entered, though beware as vandals have sprayed graffiti inside and littered as well. If you take a step back and close your eyes you can imagine the soldiers training on this spot more than a hundred years ago.

Only five miles north of Fort Taber is an even older piece of American history. Located along the water in Fairhaven, and within sight of Fort Taber is Fort Phoenix. This spot was built during the American Revolution in 1775. It was destroyed by British troops in 1778 but was rebuilt so quickly that it was given the name Fort Phoenix(right) after the mythical bird. In 1812 it was enlarged under the supervision of the future ‘Father of the Military Academy’ at West Point, Sylvanua Thayer. It helped repel an attack by the British HMS Nimrod in 1814. It remained in use during the Civil War with Union troops rotating between Fort Phoenix and Fort Taber. Though not used since 1876, Fort Phoenix still bears the look of an active military institution with five 19th century cannons perched facing over the waters of Buzzards Bay as if ready for an oncoming battle. The site is open year round and has a tremendous breakwater walk with a view of Palmer’s Island Light located on a small island in the middle of the harbor.

About seven miles east, in the small town of Mattapoisett, there is yet another piece of history. On the shore of Buzzards Bay, at the mouth of Mattapoisett’s harbor, sits Ned’s Point Lighthouse(left). It was built in 1838 at the urging of former President, and at that time Massachusetts Congressman, John Quincy Adams. It had been rushed and poorly built at first, needing several rounds of improvements up through 1888. The wooden light keeper’s house was loaded on a barge and floated across Buzzards Bay to Wing’s Neck Light in Bourne in 1923. Russell Eastman, the last keeper at Ned’s Point, rode in the house across the bay on the day. Decommissioned by the Coast Guard in 1952 the light became active again in 1961. The thirty-nine foot stone tower is open for a few hours Thursdays during July and August but the grounds are open all year long.

Massachusetts is filled with history that dates back nearly 400 years. It is impossible to visit any of the 351 cities and towns in the state and not find one if not several amazing historical landmarks. You don’t even have to enjoy history to appreciate these sites mentioned above. It is much different than studying a book when the places themselves are brimming with life as you stand before them. I recommend each of these places be visited but they don’t have to be all in one day! Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Fort Taber/Rodman: From I-195 West take Exit 15 into New Bedford. Follow John F Kennedy Memorial Highway until you need to bear right onto Rodney French Blvd. The Fort Taber/Rodman site is on the right at the end of the road.

Fort Phoenix: From I-195 West take Exit 18 into Fairhaven. Turn right to take Rt. 240 south. A little more than a mile turn right onto Bridge St. Bear right onto Rt. 6/Huttleston Ave. Turn left on Main St.; left onto Church St.; and right onto Fort St. Fort Phoenix is on the right as you approach the beach.

Ned’s Point Lighthouse: From I-195 West take Exit 19A. Turn right into Mattapoisett. Bear right onto North Street, follow for a mile and a half and turn left onto Water St. which becomes Beacon St. This road becomes Ned’s Point Rd. without any turns. Follow it to the park where the lighthouse is located.

References: Fort Taber/Rodman History

Fort Phoenix History Blog

Ned's Point Light Virtual Guide

New Bedford Whaling Museum