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Showing posts with label doughnut. Show all posts
Showing posts with label doughnut. Show all posts

Thursday, November 14, 2019

In Their Footsteps - Cape Cod History: Sullivan's Donut Shop, Hyannis



The last of the Irish donut makers.


     Sullivan’s was a staple of downtown Hyannis for two decades in the times before Dunkin’ Donuts resided on nearly every street corner on Cape Cod. After successfully running three other doughnut shops in Brockton in the 1950s and ’60s, John “Sully” Sullivan was making doughnuts at a Dunkin’ Donuts in Stoughton, Massachusetts, in 1971, when he was hired by James Despotopulos to work at his Sugar N’ Spice doughnut shop in South Yarmouth. Despotopulos had opened his shop in 1969 after moving to Cape Cod from Stoughton.

     Sully was seen as the unofficial mayor of Brockton, rubbing elbows with the likes of Cesar Romero and his close friend Rocky Marciano. Never the less he moved his wife, Rosemarie, and their five children to the mid-Cape area. There he hoped to settle into a quieter routine, escaping the busier and sometimes dangerous streets of Brockton in the early 1970s.

     Not too long after Sullivan left Sugar N’ Spice, he worked at a Dunkin’ Donuts on the corner of Forest Road and Route 28 in South Yarmouth that still stands as of 2019. Doughnut making was a passion of Sully’s; it also ran in the family. Sullivan’s father, also named John Sullivan, had run a doughnut shop in Hampton Beach, New Hampshire, before World War II. It was not long before Sullivan’s Donut Shop lived again, this time on the corner of Bearse’s Way and Route 28 in Hyannis. After purchasing equipment from a closing Jack In the Box fast food restaurant the new shop opened in late 1975 and gained popularity from the get-go.

     These doughnuts were made the old-fashioned way in large vats of oil, with bakers using sticks to flip the sweet lumps of dough and make sure they were properly cooked on each side. These doughnuts were heavier and more filling and satisfying. They came in all sorts of delicious shapes and sizes. There were classic honey-dipped, chocolate frosted and jelly-filled; there were crullers, coffee rolls and doughnut holes. There were also delectable muffins and coffee, of course.

     Though it opened very early for people on their way to work, some could not wait until sunrise for a fresh and hot doughnut. Sully would open his back door before officially opening for the day and sell doughnuts to customers. This practice has been made well-known thanks to Back Door Donuts, located in Oak Bluffs on Martha’s Vineyard. This is part of the Martha’s Vineyard Gourmet CafĂ© & Bakery, which opened in 2001.
The counter inside Sullivan’s Donut Shop

     However, there was much more than just the run of the mill doughnut shop lying in those four walls. Sullivan’s was a meeting place before there was Starbucks, and it was every bit a family-run business. Sully’s wife, sons and daughters all worked hard to make each and every customer feel welcome. In return, the customers made Sullivan’s a destination. There were also times that the customers were the staff. A handful of regulars knew how to open the shop, and once the doors were unlocked, they would happily help with the setup, pulling down stools and starting the coffee.

     There were several unique touches to Sullivan’s that made it more than just coffee and doughnuts. For starters, there was a piano located in the corner of the shop; no other Cape Cod doughnut shop could lay claim to that. Said piano would be played daily by the house piano player, Barnstable High School English teacher Ed Milk. It was also played by legendary jazz pianist Dave McKenna. Considered to be one of the finest pianists in the world during his career,    McKenna, also a neighbor of Sully’s, would often play music to the delight of customers and to pay for his doughnuts.

     After moving to Cape Cod in 1966, McKenna played many shows at local bars and nightclubs. Sully remarked that he would often go into work at the doughnut shop at 1:00 a.m. This was around the time that most of the local bars would close, and the musicians, including McKenna, who had been playing would come knocking on the door looking for something to eat. Legend has it that McKenna once ate eighteen hot honey-dipped doughnuts in one sitting but stopped there; telling Sully he “didn’t want to seem like a pig.”

     Also unique to Sullivan’s was the meticulous, hand-painted mural of the mid-Cape area on the wall of the shop. It was common for customers to walk over to the mural, coffee or doughnut in hand, and stare in wonder at the painstaking detail put into this piece of art. 

     Sullivan’s popularity stretched beyond the average joes who stopped in before work. Legendary Boston Bruins announcer Fred Cusick enjoyed popping in for a visit when he was around during the 1970s and ’80s.

     Longtime Kennedy chauffeur Tommy Roderick also frequented the donut shop, picking up a box because “Jackie loved blueberry muffins.” So popular was Sullivan’s that Barnstable Police remarked to Sully that if they were ever looking for a suspect in Hyannis they would simply stake out Sullivan’s and neighboring Christy’s, because whomever they were looking for would end up there eventually.

     Sullivan’s thrived into the 1990s, when construction at the plaza where it resided caused the shop to be closed for a while. It had been featured on the corner of the plaza with glass windows facing the traffic; now it had been pushed inside to a smaller location. Unfortunately, business suffered, and Sullivan’s closed early in 1993.

Where Sullivan's Donuts once stood in Hyannis.
     Much of the equipment used to make the doughnuts at Sullivan’s was bought by the Hole In One Donut Shop. This company, run by four sisters, continues to make doughnuts the old-fashioned way to this day, even in a world filled with Dunkin’ Donuts and Krispy Kreme. They are still going strong as of 2019, with locations in Eastham and Orleans.

     
     As of this writing, a convenience store sits where Sullivan’s once resided.






Monday, March 22, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 32: Taunton, Mass.


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 32: Taunton, Mass.
March 18, 2010
           
Seemingly a hybrid between city life and small town charm, Taunton has something for everyone.  There are beautiful cathedral style churches, amazing monuments and mills, historical buildings, and quaint shops and eateries all intertwined into one truly great place to visit.  Located only a half hour from the Cape and forty minutes from Boston, Taunton blends the best of both areas perfectly.  It is the largest town in terms of square mileage in the state.
            Taunton was originally settled in 1637.  The name was taken from the town of Taunton in Somerset, England as that was where many of the first settlers came from.  These settlers took possession of the land from the native Wampanoags who had called the land Cohannet.  The land saw battles during the Revolutionary War and became an important town in the 19th Century due to silver and iron industries.  The Taunton River is the town’s only major waterway.  Though beautiful it can also be dangerous, it was flooded after a series of large rainstorms recently.
I chose to park and walk into the center of town first, it was a good choice.  A walk down Broadway is a great way to get a feel for Taunton.  I passed by the amazing St. Mary’s Church, located in a small section of town also called St. Mary’s Square.  It towers overhead with the feel of a structure built a thousand years ago.  On a sunny day like this was the church is a mass of color and intricate shadows ripe for photographers.
            Only steps from St. Mary’s church you will pass by a classic doughnut shop named Colonial Donut Shop.  It has a look and feel of a gathering place for locals untouched by progress, with a grandfather who once owned a few doughnut shops, in Hyannis as well as Brockton, this was something that I appreciated.
            Even before you get close to Taunton Green(left) in the heart of the town an incredible green dome becomes visible in the distance.  This belongs to the Bristol County Superior Courthouse(right).  Built in 1894 in a Roman-esque style, the courthouse contains a large law library located in the dome section of the building.  The green color of the dome comes from the oxidation of the copper, much the same as the Statue of Liberty.  This process takes between ten and fifteen years to occur.  There is so much more to see on the grounds of the courthouse including an incredible World War II memorial fountain to the right of the building.  Luckily at this time of year the fountains were not turned on; it allowed a great view of the granite earth located in the center of four pillars.  On the other side of the courthouse grounds is a moving Korean War memorial featuring two soldiers, one of whom has seemingly just passed away.  It is hard not to be touched by both of these memorials.
            The walk down Broadway eventually leads to historical Taunton Green.  This is a great place to sit and people watch, eat lunch on a sunny day.  It has also been a traditional meeting place for troops about to be deployed, thus the war memorials on the grounds.  What fascinated me was the way that all of the roads fed into this area, the town literally revolves around the Green.  In the center of the Green is a gigantic fountain dedicated to local citizen Walter Soper in 1959.  It has two fish sculpted into it that give the fountain a more magical look.  Again, at this time of year the water was not running which allowed for a better view of what lay underneath.  The Green is a perfect jumping off point for any walk through the downtown area and there is another place, one with a historic flavor, not far away.
            The Old Colony Historical Society sits little more than a block from the center on a road called Church Green.  Housed in a brick schoolhouse originally built in 1852, this spot contains a mass of information about the people and history of the town of Taunton.  Included are displays of fine silver, Wampanoag artifacts, military pieces, as well as toys and portraits.  There are guided tours for children which makes this place a great stop on a family outing.  
            For those who are not looking for history or beautiful architecture there is something for them as well.  Massasoit State Park is located both in East Taunton and neighboring Lakeville on Middleboro Avenue.  I was pleasantly surprised by the King Airfield Hanger historic site(left).  It is what the name says, an airplane hanger, built in 1919.  What was even more intriguing was the very small cemetery along the roadside with stones dating back to the Revolutionary War days.  On a desolate part of the road it made for a haunting scene that added to a very fun drive.
Named for the legendary Native American ‘sachem,’ or chief, Massasoit State Park has 126 campsites and four lakes.  Though the gates to the main road were closed on this day it was still populated by many people jogging and walking with their kids and dogs.  The Perry cranberry bogs, which are privately maintained, fit right in with the rest of the natural beauty.  Lake Rico(right) is the closest, and largest, body of water to the main gate if visitors do not wish to travel far into the park’s grounds.   This lake takes up nearly a quarter of the park’s grounds and has a separate parking area outside of the park as well.  It will give you a taste of the beauty of Massasoit even if you do not travel any further inside.
Taunton is very much a hybrid town, mixing small town charm with city advances.  It is something that cannot easily be explained but once you step foot on its streets you will understand what I mean.  I highly recommend taking a nice walk through the Taunton Green area if the weather permits, and definitely visiting Massasoit State Park even if only to see Lake Rico.  With something for everyone, Taunton is awaiting.  Have fun and happy traveling!
Directions: Taunton Green: From I-495 take Exit 6 for Harding Street/Rt. 44, follow it for 6 miles.  Continue straight onto Church Green, continue onto Main Street.  Turn left at Court St., take 1st left onto Taunton Green.  Parking is available on every street, there is also a lot located nearby on School St.
Massasoit State Park:  From I-495, take Exit 5 for Bedford St./Rt. 18, turn right onto Taunton St.  Continue onto Middleboro Avenue, turn left onto Massasoit Park Rd.
            Taunton, Mass. Official Site
            Massasoit State Park Information