In My Footsteps: Martha's Vineyard Trip 2

            The first time I visited Martha’s Vineyard in September it was much warmer and I was felling much more adventurous. I rented a bicycle and rode twenty-five miles through the streets of Oak Bluffs, Vineyard Haven, and Edgartown.  It was an amazing first act in the production of my second book, In My Footsteps: Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard. 

            However, the second trip would be different.  Being in mid-November it was not going to be bicycle weather and this would be further exacerbated by the fact that I needed to venture all the way to the western coast of the island, about twenty-miles from the ferry dock in   So I caved and decided to enlist the aid of a car to make this trip as productive as possible.

Vineyard Haven.

            A big day is better when properly fueled. I began with breakfast at the ArtCliff Diner in Vineyard Haven. It was a fabulous meal.  The diner itself is more cozy than small and was fairly crowded even in November.  Opened in 1943 ArtCliff Diner has an array of offbeat memorabilia on the walls and some unique choices on the menu.  I chose breakfast tacos which included eggs, chorizo, salsa and avocado.  I would need several more trips to fully get a taste of what this popular spot has to offer.  

            After eating it was time to set off to the west coast of the Vineyard.  There I would find one of the most impressive sights I’ve seen in all of my traveling, and also one of the most fragile.  In the town of Aquinnah sits Gay Head Lighthouse and the appropriately named Aquinnah Cliffs.  The cliffs are spectacular, 150-feet of sediment and clay from six different glaciers.  They are severely endangered though due to people climbing on them and removing clay from the cliffs.  From the overlook at the top of Aquinnah Circle it is hard to grasp just how immense the cliffs are, it is awe-inspiring. The cliffs are a sacred spot to the local Wampanoag Tribe.

            Perched precariously close to the edge of the cliffs sits the brick Gay Head Lighthouse, it is another Vineyard treasure.  It was originally built in 1799 of brick made from the clay of the neighboring cliffs.  The current structure stands fifty-two feet tall and was built in 1855.  It is very obvious that this lighthouse needs to be moved or it will soon topple into the ocean.  There is maybe fifty-feet of land between Gay Head Light and the cliffs, it seems like a lot of room but locals know that a few large storms can quickly eliminate much of that land.  I could feel the fragility of the lighthouse and surrounding land while taking in the atmosphere.  The fact that someday it might be gone made me appreciate the fact that I was able to stand there.

Gay Head Light and Aquinnah Cliffs

            After leaving Gay Head Light and the Aquinnah Cliffs behind it was off to another spot famous for a totally different reason.  The fishing village of Menemsha may not sound familiar to many even though it was established in 1694.  However once you pop in a copy of the movie Jaws you will connect the dots.  A good amount of the all-time classic movie was filmed in Menemsha.  The old fishing shacks and charter boats dotting the harbor can immediately make you feel like you’re a part of a real life movie, maybe even hearing a few notes of the infamous Jaws ‘theme music.’  This is a location where this is not a specific destination to go to, for me it was more of the atmosphere again.  I enjoyed just walking around  It is also home to possibly the best sunsets on the island.  I was not able to stick around for that due to needing to catch the ferry home but I will be sure to witness it for myself sometime.

Fishing shacks in Menemsha

nd the docks and fishing shacks and soaking it in.

            On South Road in the neighboring town of Chilmark is the final resting place of a Hollywood Icon, John Belushi.  Though his career was short he left a huge impact on the world of comedy for sure.  He died in 1982 and was buried at Abel’s Hill Cemetery that much is certain. After that it’s up for speculation.  The story is that within a year of his death his wife Judy had his body dug up and moved to a different location in the cemetery due to people desecrating the grave.  His actual tombstone was also moved to the cemetery gates, this makes it quite easy to find.  So the tombstone is the real deal but it is not where John Belushi is actually buried, that spot is probably only known by a select few.  I paid my respects to one of my personal favorites before heading back toward the ferry.

            The last spot I needed to see on my second Vineyard trip was one I missed the first time. In Oak Bluffs there are the famous ‘gingerbread houses’ of Wesleyan Grove.  It is also known as the Martha’s Vineyard Campmeeting Association (MVCMA).  Whatever the name one thing is for sure, these cottages are like stepping into a fairy tale.  The colors and architecture set off all sorts of senses and visions words will not do justice to.  The 300-plus cottages were built just after the Civil War on thirty-four acres of land as a Methodist summer camp.  The cottages were built around a central church tabernacle.  Today many of the cottages are available to rent through the MVCMA.  Wesleyan Grove has inspired some imitations with gingerbread-style cottages in places like Ocean Park, Maine and Ocean Grove, New Jersey.  I was enthralled with this location and found myself taking photos of literally every single cottage.  I highly recommend taking some time to walk the grounds and daydream a little.

            My second trip to Martha’s Vineyard was a little colder with less daylight but every bit as fun and exciting as the first.  The western side of the island is a little more remote and quiet but has some spectacular sites like Gay Head Light and the Aquinnah Cliffs. 

A few of the gingerbread cottages.

One needs to spend some time wandering around Menemsha and later on Wesleyan Grove in Oak Bluffs, take your time and soak in the atmosphere you won’t be disappointed.  I am already planning a third trip back to the island and can’t wait to see what that has in store for me.  Have fun and happy traveling!

     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, and stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter and YouTube for more on In My Footsteps!

Directions:  Gay Head Light/Aquinnah Cliffs:  From the Vineyard Haven ferry take State Rd. for 5.5 miles, slight right onto N. Rd., follow it 5.7 miles. Turn left onto Menemsha Xrd, follow 1 mile, turn right onto State Rd., follow it 6 miles, and continue onto Aquinnah Circle to destination.

            John Belushi’s Grave:  From the ferry take State Rd., continue onto S. Rd, and follow it 2.6 miles to destination on right. The grave is located near entrance, can’t miss it.

            Wesleyan Grove:  From ferry head south on Beach Rd., follow 1.3 miles, slight right onto Eastville Rd., slight left onto Temahigan Ave., continue onto New York Ave., follow 1 mile, turn left onto Siloam Ave, follow it into MVCMA.

References:  Gay Head Light.org

            MVCMA.com

            Steamship Authority.com

            Martha's Vineyard Chamber of Commerce

           

Vineyard Haven on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 101: Rockland, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 101:  Rockland, Mass.

December 16, 2010

            It was originally settled as a part of neighboring Abington.  With its historic Union Street filled with amazing homes, Rockland has definitely made its own path since separating from Abington in 1874.  Original European settler James Walshie settled Rockland in 1673.  It was used as a camp by Wampanoag sachem, or chief, Metacom, during King Philip’s War in 1675-76 during his raids on the town of Scituate.

Rockland Memorial Library

            Ironically although it shares the name with the town, Rockland Trust neither began in, nor has its corporate headquarters in Rockland.  I went and began photographing the Rockland Trust on Union Street thinking it was the original branch of the bank established in 1907.  I was fortunate enough to get to speak with a man from that branch and he informed me that the first branch of Rockland Trust was actually in Scituate.  The corporate headquarters are located in neighboring Hanover.  The branch I visited was opened in 1917 and actually was the corporate headquarters until 2008, so it was still historic but not exactly what I had thought.

The five soldiers in front of Rockland's Town Hall.

            Union Street is the main drag of Rockland and is the location of many of the historic buildings in the small town of just over 17,000.  Taking a walk along Union Street was great, despite the sidewalk being worked on.  The Rockland Memorial Library, on the corner of Union Street and Belmont Street, is a member of the Old Colony Library Network which accommodates much of the South Shore.  The building was erected in 1874 and has the same classic style as some of the buildings I enjoyed in Easton and Fairhaven that were created by Henry H. Richardson and Henry H. Rogers respectively.

            Up on the right from the library, on the corner of Union St. and North Avenue is a beautiful church, the Holy Family Church.  Established in 1882 it was the first church built after Rockland became a separate town.  It is made of brick which gives it a unique appearance.  There are several ‘block’ buildings as well in Rockland on Union Street.  Those are the buildings I have referenced several times before bearing a name on the concrete façade near the top.  I have been trying to find out who determined the names which adorn these blocks and can only assume they are the folks who fronted the money to have them built.  The Bigelow and Phoenix block buildings are a few such examples in Rockland.   

Lower Union Street Historic District

            Further down Union Street as it closes in on Market Street there is a really nice stretch of historic homes.  There are always historic homes in every town from the 17^th through 19^th century but the ones which make up the Lower Union Street Historic District were each unique in their own way.  The first home I saw actually caused me to do a double-take; I had to go back.  Built in 1846 it was amazing, yellow with red shutters and what looked like small awnings over the windows.  The colors of the house were only topped by the small fenced in front yard.  The picket fence was a mix of red, blue, pink, and yellow with some one of a kind lawn ornaments including a dresser and a tricycle covered with flowers.

            After that incredible display I parked at the end of Union Street and took a walk to see more of these homes up close.  There was a home from 1874 which was blue with red trim and had two large Christmas wreaths near the edges of the front.  The colors and layouts of these homes made each look like a dollhouse of sorts.  I found myself snapping photo after photo of this great stretch of Rockland’s Union Street.

Lower Union Street Historic District

            One spot that stood out to me was actually the Rockland Town Hall.  It was not so much the building itself but the display in front of it.  There in front of the sign stood five wooden soldiers each about three-feet tall.  They were from each branch of the military and gave the area a special feel as each of them cast a never ending salute to the cars passing by.

            Once a camp for Wampanoag sachem Metacom, Rockland has a rich history which is still quite evident as you walk the streets today.  From the ‘block’ buildings that I have seen to the longtime headquarters of Rockland Trust there is no shortage of sites to see.  Don’t forget to stop and salute the wooden soldiers in front of the Town Hall and check out the impressive stretch of unique historic homes of the Lower Union Street Historic District as it creeps toward Market Street.  That walk will really tie together everything you see in Rockland.  Have fun and happy traveling!

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Rockland Town Hall:  From Rt. 3 take Exit 13, turn right at Rt. 53, left at Rt. 123.  Follow it 4 miles, turn right at Union St.  Town Hall is .2 miles down on right.  Lower Union St. Historic District begins .2 miles further down, just past Vernon St.

References:  Rockland, Ma.gov

            Rockland Memorial Library.org

In My Footsteps: Trip 98: Acushnet, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 98:  Acushnet, Massachusetts

December 2, 2010

            Formerly a part of New Bedford and then Fairhaven the town of Acushnet may be small in size but it has a rather large link to the world of sports.  The name Acushnet comes from the Wampanoag word ‘Cushnea’ which means ‘peaceful resting place near water’ which is no coincidence since the town lies along the Acushnet River.

Acushnet Town Hall

            The link to the world of sports that Acushnet has comes from the Acushnet Process Company, now known as the Acushnet Company.  Founded in 1910 the Acushnet Company owns the Titleist brand name which is very well known to any fan of the sport of golf.  The Acushnet Company was founded by Philip E. Young and began creating their own rubber-based products after initially supplying rubber to other companies.

            I began my time in Acushnet by visiting the center of town which as I have stated many times is where my GPS tends to bring me.  I parked next to the Town Hall and took a walk.  Posted on nearly every telephone pole were signs celebrating Acushnet’s Sesquicentennial.  That means 150 years, I had never heard of that particular term before visiting Acushnet.  The Town Hall had a unique style to it with a stone face looking more like an old castle than an official building.

History outside Long Plain Museum

            Being that this trip came during the Christmas season there were decorations and lights everywhere that captured my favorite time of the year.  I really loved the set up in front of the local fire department.  There were nutcrackers, snowmen, white bears, and of course Santa on the front lawn.  I arrived as the winter sun was getting low and the yellow orange hue to the collection really made it a sight to behold.

            After leaving the center of Acushnet I took a drive out to the Long Plain Museum further out on Main Street.  This museum is also the home of the town’s historical society.  The Long Plain Museum was built in 1875 and was originally the Long Plain Schoolhouse until 1972.  Many of the historical photos and exhibits inside depict school life in the late 19^th and early 20^th century.

Long Plain Museum

            What I particularly liked about this museum was the fact that there were several pieces of significance outside lined up along the fence.  There is a horse watering trough from 1840 that formerly resided outside of the Whelden School on Middle Street.  Next to that is the front step of the one room ‘Bog School.’  This tiny schoolhouse was taken over from Fairhaven in 1860 and remained in operation until 1905 when it was closed and the students transferred to the Long Plain School.  To the right is a date stone from the Whelden Mill, one of the earliest cotton mills in the northeast.  It was built in 1814 by Captain Joseph Whelden near where Deep Brook meets the Acushnet River.  Finally there is the keystone of the Deep Brook Bridge built in 1845.  The old bridge crossed Middle Road over Deep Brook before being replaced in 1974 by the current bridge.  The old schoolhouse had a haunting presence in the fading daylight making it an image I will take from my time in Acushnet.

            The final place I was able to visit before winter took the sunlight away was the Long Plain Friends Meeting House and Museum a short drive away on Main Street.  The meeting house was built by the Quakers in 1759, the term ‘friends’ used in many of the titles of these religious halls was just another way of saying Quaker.  It is the oldest such meeting house in southeastern Massachusetts but is no longer actively used. 

Long Plain Friends Meeting House

Set back from the road it was a memorable walk to get to where the solo white building stood in the open field.  As is the case with every other Quaker meeting house I have seen in my travels there is a small cemetery of loyal followers not far from the meeting house.  I stayed on the grounds of the meeting house until there was only milky dusk remaining it was as if I was in the soul of little Acushnet at that time.  That is what I will take from my trip, being able to ‘feel’ what the town was about.

Acushnet is a small town with a big connection to the world of sports with its association with the Titleist company. It also has hands on history with the Long Plain Museum.  It absolutely lived up to its Wamapnoag name of being a peaceful resting place near water and I believe that any visitor will enjoy their time in Acushnet.  Have fun and happy traveling!

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Long Plain Museum:  From I-195 take Exit 20, take Rt. 105 through Rochester.  Turn right at Cushman Rd., left at Robinson Rd., these are still Rt. 105.  Follow Robinson Rd. to Main St., turn right, Museum is almost immediately on left.  Quaker Meeting House is .7 miles further up on left.  

References:  Long Plain Museum.org

            Acushnet, Ma. - Official Town Site

            Acushnet Comapny.com

In My Footsteps: Trip 97: Dartmouth, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 97:  Dartmouth, Mass.

December 2, 2010

Demarest Lloyd State Park

            One part seaside village and one part college town, Dartmouth has the best of both of those worlds and much more. Dartmouth is primarily known as the home of one of  the University of Massachusetts campuses.  However, the ‘college town’ part of Dartmouth is only a small piece of what makes up this seaside town.  It was first settled in 1652, purchased from the Wampanoag chiefs Massasoit and Wamsutta by Plymouth Colony.  It was subsequently sold to the Quakers because they wanted a place to live outside of the strict Puritan laws of Plymouth Colony.  There are several Quaker Meeting House’s located in Dartmouth’s borders that remind citizens and visitors alike of the town’s roots.

            The first place I stopped at was Demarest Lloyd State Park along Dartmouth’s southern coast on Barney’s Joy Road.  In the offseason the gate is closed and so I had to walk down to the beach which faces Buzzards Bay.  The walk was nice though as the road is paved and the weather was not too cold.  There is a picnic area on the right as you head toward the beach.  Although there aren’t any places to park next to the picnic area they would really only be used when it is warm so that should not stop anybody from partaking in the beautiful picnic area scenery.

Oxford Creamery at the Bucket

            The beach is small and filled with small rocks but it has spectacular views.  To the east there is Mishaum Point and the Slocums River empties into Buzzards Bay here.  To the west the land slopes out toward Horseneck Beach in neighboring Westport.  The river may empty here but there is a much better place to enjoy the sights of Slocums River.  Russell Mills Landing on Horseneck Road was where I stopped to get a good view of the river passing through.  There is a playground for the children and I got to see a huge flock of ducks meandering around in the water.  While I can’t promise you the ducks the scenery at Russells Mills Landing is worth a look.  The name Russells Mills will appear again later in this article.

            Apponagansett Park on Gulf Road is another place filled with great maritime scenery.  The name Apponagansett is also the name of one of the previously mentioned Quaker Meeting House’s located in Dartmouth.  The park is rather small, facing Apponagansett Bay, and connected to South Dartmouth by a long drawbridge.  There were still some boats in the water as well despite it being well past the end of the season.  However despite the boats, a gazebo, and drawbridge, there was something else that caught my eye here above all else.

Looking across Apponagansett Bay to S. Dartmouth.

            It was a twenty-foot tall brown ice cream bucket that fascinated me the moment I pulled into Apponagansett Park.  Oxford Creamery at the Bucket, also known as Gulf Hill Dairy Ice Cream is a unique ice cream shack that must be extremely busy during the summer.  I imagine that there must be lots of people who come from miles away just to see this one of a kind landmark in addition to partaking in the delicious treats it serves.  It was during my time at places like this where I had to remind myself that this was a college town you’d be hard pressed to find evidence of that fact once you get out of sight of the UMass campus.

            The Apponagansett Friends Meeting House, located on Russell Mills Road was originally built in 1689 with the current structure having been erected in 1790.  As I previously said it is one of several Quaker Meeting Houses in Dartmouth and this one sits stoically on a hill overlooking the road and hiding an old cemetery behind it.  I am not one for wandering through cemeteries but it felt like I was taking a walk through the history of the town as I did.  Granted it is not for everyone, but those who don’t get creeped out easily might enjoy it.

            The village of Russells Mills is a large part of the history of Dartmouth.  I have already mentioned it when speaking of the landing which sits next to Solcums River.  However, there is an historic district in the western part of the town that houses some neat old buildings.

Russells Mills Schoolhouse-Library c. 1871

            I stopped at the Russells Mills Library-Schoolhouse built in 1871.  Doubling as both in the past it is now used solely as a library.  Try as I might I have had trouble finding out the importance of the Russells Mills name so much of the history of this area is unknown to me.  There was a donkey hitched up behind the building which was a bit surprising to me and was one of the little moments I tend to run into which make each trip unique.  I hope that maybe someone reading this might have some much needed information about the Russells Mills name for me.

            Dartmouth is definitely a mixture of many places.  One part college town and one part seaside village it is all together a great spot to visit.  I would imagine that it would be even more fun to visit Demarest Lloyd State Park and Oxford Creamery at the Bucket at Appongansett Park during the summer.  Still I enjoyed my time in Dartmouth and think any potential traveler will as well.  Have fun and happy traveling!

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Demarest Lloyd State Park:  From I-195 take Exit 12, turn right at Faunce Corner Dr., continue onto Old Westport Rd.  Turn left at Chase Rd., follow it 3.5 miles, turn right at Russells Mills Rd.  Continue onto Horseneck Rd., continue onto Barney’s Joy Rd.  Park entrance is 1 mile up on left.

            Apponagansett Park:  From I-195 take Exit 12, turn right at Faunce Corner Dr., turn left at State Rd., turn right at Tucker Rd.  Follow it 3 miles, continue onto Russells Mills Rd.  Continue onto Bakerville Rd.  Turn left at Gulf Rd., Park is on left 1.3 miles.

References:  New Bedford Area Chamber of Commerce

            Demarest Lloyd State Park - Mass. DCR

            Oxford Creamery.com

Buzzards Bay on Dwellable