Washburn Island and World War II - Cape Cod History

Despite Cape Cod being a relatively small location (approximately 339 square miles), some places are far less traveled. Most of these locations come in the form of small islands located in and around the peninsula.

A few examples include Strong Island in Chatham, which is 75 acres and consists primarily of marshland. There is Sipson Island, which is 25 acres and has been privately owned for over three centuries. Sampsons Island in Cotuit is a 15-acre nature preserve. Bassetts Island in Pocasset is 60 acres of beaches and upland forest. There is even more to be explored, but none has the wealth of history and the air of mystery that exists on Washburn Island.

Washburn Island is approximately 330 acres in size and sits inside Waquoit Bay off East Falmouth. Today it’s a largely undeveloped, pine-and-oak–covered island with a popular primitive campsite and a handful of sandy beaches. That calm surface hides a layered past: Indigenous seasonal use, 19th-century farms and Gilded-Age summer estates, and dramatic storms. Perhaps most intriguing is the island’s surprising role in World War II amphibious training.

Long before European colonists arrived, the island was used seasonally by Native Americans. They referred to the island as Menauhaunt. Archaeological finds like shell middens, stone flakes, and other artifacts show human activity in and around Waquoit Bay and Washburn Island for many centuries. Through the 1700s and 1800s, the island was intermittently used for grazing livestock and small farms. In the 19th century, three farms existed on the island, two of which were gone by the end of the century. By that point, the future Washburn Island had attracted private owners.

In 1900, Henry A. Bryant, whose family had opened the Pacific Northwest to the shipping trade, acquired the property. On it, he had built a large three-story summer house overlooking Waquoit Bay and Vineyard Sound. For a time, a hand ferry connected the island to the mainland with a landing on the Seapit River at present-day Ferry Road.

Henry Bryant died suddenly on January 6, 1904, at the young age of forty-six. The estate on the island was left to his widow, Alida. She held on to the property until 1912, when it was sold to a group of bankers and corporate investors. This included the former U.S. Ambassador to Austria, Albert Washburn.

Albert Washburn c. 1920(Library of Congress)

At first, the purchase was only for the former Bryant estate, with the rest planned to be sold in parcels for development. Those plans fell through, and Albert Washburn and his wife, Florence, bought the rest of the island for their own private use.

The Washburns erected a wondrous compound. In addition to moving into the Bryant estate, the Washburns constructed a stable, a barn, a boathouse, a pier, and a narrow bridged causeway. The family name is what the island is usually called today.

The bridge to Washburn Island looking west toward the mainland.(Falmouth Historical Society)

The main house burned to the ground on October 26, 1926, thanks to a fire starting inside a defective chimney. The soft sand near the bridged causeway severely affected the arrival time of firefighters. By the time the blaze had been quelled, all that remained were the servants' quarters. The barn and most of the farm remained intact. A modest farmhouse was built to give the Washburns a place to live during their summers on the island.

Albert Washburn died suddenly of food poisoning in Vienna in April 1930, leaving the island in a state of flux. The estate never fully recovered, and the property shifted toward recreational use after that period. This was mostly because while the island was still owned by Florence Washburn, she never marked the property or imposed any restrictions on visitors.

Florence and the rest of her family began spending less and less time on the island in the early 1930s. It became a haven for those using the island for picnicking and recreation. Unfortunately, some took advantage of this generosity by looting the farmhouse and vandalizing parts of the island.

A massive hurricane in 1938 dramatically changed the island's appearance. It washed away the causeway and bridge. This left Florence Washburn with no easy access to the island where the farmhouse remained. The storm surge also ripped a channel open in the area that was 125 feet wide and seven feet deep. For the first time in decades, Washburn Island truly was an island.

Washburn Island’s most dramatic chapter came along with World War II. Florence Washburn, who had been living exclusively in Hanover, New Hampshire, said in June 1942 that she wanted to rebuild her beloved island that had been severely damaged by vandals. However, she couldn’t get the assurances needed to protect her property rights.

A perfect storm came up as the U.S. military rapidly expanded amphibious training in the early 1940s. Needing coastal areas to prepare troops for beach landings in both the European and Pacific areas, the military looked to Washburn Island. With Florence unable to rebuild the island the way she wanted, she instead leased several tracts of land to the federal government.

The Army’s amphibious units (Engineer Boat and Shore Regiments and associated training commands operating out of Camp Edwards and nearby facilities) used the island for landing exercises. To create a proper base, there was the construction of a crisscross of several temporary roads and five finger-like piers that stretched nearly 900 feet out into the water. Washburn Island also saw drill fields, parade grounds, and an obstacle course. Once completed, the island served as a training ground for two years.

Despite wishing for the operations at Washburn to be secret, it was easy for locals to spot what was going on. It became commonplace to spot barges landing on the beach and soldiers wading through the water in full gear with rifles held overhead. After the war ended, Cape Codders proudly referred to Washburn Island as the ‘Cradle of Invasions,’ and the troops as ‘Cape Cod Commandos.’

Perhaps the wildest scene during these operations was the full-scale mock invasion the troops performed on Martha’s Vineyard. This included traversing the rough seas of Vineyard Sound and landing at designated sites at Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs on the north side of the island, more than five miles away.

A World War II amphibious vehicle, the DUKW.

For training purposes, the island was temporarily reconnected to the mainland via a sand causeway and wooden drawbridge that began at Ovington Point. Temporary structures were also built to support the effort. Contemporary accounts and later histories emphasize Washburn Island’s role as one of the local training beaches where soldiers practiced the skills, including small-craft landings, that would be vital in Normandy, the Mediterranean, and Pacific operations.

Washburn Island’s importance began to dwindle in 1943 due to harsh weather. The majority of the program was moved south to Carrabelle, Florida. Another major hurricane roared through in September 1944. This storm again destroyed the bridge and causeway. For a time, the military decided not to rebuild. It seemed as though this chapter of the story was over.

As World War II was coming to a close in the summer of 1945, Washburn Island got a new purpose. It became a place of recovery for those G.I.s returning from battle. The island that was not long before filled with amphibious vehicles and soldiers preparing for battle now looked far different.

On August 9, 1945, Washburn Island opened the Convalescent Hospital. It was staffed by twenty-five officers and men and was visited daily by 800 men who were transported to the island over the causeway via bus.

Recovering soldiers had access to surfboards, diving rafts, boats for fishing, lounge chairs, and various other beach games. Lt. Victor Dauer, the commanding officer of Washburn Island, emphasized that the facilities were meant for total physical and mental relaxation. Soldiers from all across the country came to Washburn. They got a slice of the good life as the highly regarded Coonamessett Club temporarily operated only to serve those veterans.

When all of the soldiers who had needed help had been taken care of, it was time for Washburn Island to be returned to its namesake. The structures that had been erected were all torn down, leaving only cement slabs on the island. The government gave the island back to Florence Washburn; however, it had changed dramatically.

Numerous trees had been cut down to make way for the military buildings, or they had been felled by the hurricane. The structures that did remain included the old farmhouse, the barn, an ice house, and a bath house. One thing that would not remain was the bridge. In late September 1946, the wooden bridge was removed, and Washburn truly was an island again.

The structures left on the island were left to slowly decay over the years, leading to their eventual razing. Despite the island being deserted, Florence refused to sell, even stating on numerous occasions that she would ‘never’ sell the island. She did, however, continue to allow visitors to the island for recreation up until her death on January 27, 1953.

Florence’s son, Dr. Lincoln Washburn, continued his mother’s policy of allowing visitors and also to never sell the property. This finally changed in 1976 when large increases in taxes in Falmouth got Dr. Washburn’s attention. Talks were loud in the coming years about potentially building a fifty-luxury-home subdivision complete with a 150-spot parking lot and a 200-foot dock. Luckily, the state stepped in to preserve the natural beauty.

In June 1983, the Commonwealth of Massachusetts acquired the island for $2.1 million($6.83 million in 2025). This was a far better option than the alternative.

Washburn Island was incorporated into the Waquoit Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve, which manages it for habitat protection, research, and low-impact recreation. Today, the Massachusetts Department of Conservation & Recreation (in partnership with the Reserve) manages camping, trails, and visitor access; the island contains primitive campsites, composting toilets, and marked trails but no developed utilities, preserving much of its wild character. What remains today on Washburn Island includes the natural features like a barrier beach, dunes, and salt ponds. There are also oak and pine forests and marshes, which are habitats for shorebirds and marine life. Except for the very small concrete slabs being overtaken by nature, there is nothing that remains from the days when the island was used as preparation for battle and the recovery from it.

Those looking to visit the island may do so. There can be day visits, beaching boats, hiking, and a small, reservation-only primitive campground (ten sites, plus one group site). Access to Washburn Island is by private boat only; there’s no public ferry. One can easily kayak to the island. The closest point to Washburn is at the Menauhaunt Yacht Club, which is less than one hundred feet. The island’s management emphasizes research, stewardship, and low-impact recreation.

In a local newspaper article in 1951, Washburn Island was seen as a place so badly damaged by storms and people that it could not be able to be salvaged. Nearly eighty years later, it stands as a pristine escape within an escape on Cape Cod. From the Native Americans, to the Bryants, to the Washburns, to the military, back to the Washburns, and finally to the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, this 330-acre property has had an incredible story. Luckily, it will remain a beautiful getaway for hikers, campers, and beachgoers when it easily could have become another private haven for the filthy rich, which makes up too much of Cape Cod as it is.

Looking across Waquoit Bay with Washburn Island on the right.

Thekla Hedlund and The Bellows: In Their Footsteps - Cape Cod History

Outside The Bellows(c. Falmouth Historical Society)

     In June 1933, Cape Cod, Massachusetts was a very different place than it is today. The current Sagamore and Bourne Bridges that cross the Cape Cod Canal were two years away from being constructed. In their places stood two drawbridges built in the 1910s. The Mid-Cape Highway was two decades from existence; Route 6A and Route 28 were the main roads carrying people all over. 

     There was no television, and there were no radio stations. According to the 1930 census, the year-round population was a mere 32,000 or roughly 17,000 less than Barnstable alone as of 2023. 

     It was a much different world then, except for one thing: food. In any time, people have to eat. As the Great Depression took hold, a new eating establishment opened up in the then-quiet town of Falmouth. At that point, Falmouth’s year-round population was less than 5,000. The new restaurant was simply known as The Bellows. Its owner would make it one of the first landmark restaurants on Cape Cod. 

Thekla (Starck) Hedlund(BobB/Find A Grave.com)

    Thekla Marie Starck was born on June 11, 1872 in Sweden. She emigrated to the town of Lynbrook, New York about 25 miles east of New York City. Thekla met and married Morris Hedlund. The couple came to Cape Cod during the Roaring Twenties, summering in the village of Centerville. It was during her initial years on the Cape that Thekla began to establish a reputation for creating and serving delicious food. 

     In the early 20th century, Cape Cod experienced a surge in the popularity of tea rooms. These establishments offered more than just refreshments. They became social hubs, especially for women seeking both leisure and entrepreneurial opportunities. These tea rooms were often quaint, charming spaces, sometimes set in repurposed barns, old houses, or even grist mills, providing a homelike environment that was both inviting and respectable. 

     Notable Cape Cod tea rooms from the era included: The Sign of the Pine in Wellfleet, The Hangar Tea Room in Falmouth Heights, and the Dunbar Tea Room in Sandwich which is still in operation as of 2025. 

     Thekla and Morris first operated the Hedlund Food Shop and Tea Room in 1924 on Main Street in Centerville. Soon the name was changed to the Lustre Tea Room. Sadly Morris died in January 1929 leaving Thekla and her four children scrambling. 

Morris Hedlund(BobB/Find A Grave.com)

     Despite the tremendous loss Thekla carried on and ran the Lustre Tea Room with the help of her daughters Greta and Maria. Thekla’s skill with cuisine was apparent, but the loss of Morris forced her to learn the business aspect as well. It would prove invaluable.

     Being familiar with how they worked Thekla initially intended on opening up another tea room as her next venture. In September 1932 she bought a piece of property from Clifford L. Hubbard located on Falmouth Heights Road. Hubbard had been a longtime selectman for the town of Falmouth.    

     Even back then it was quite difficult to open a new business. It was far more difficult as a woman. Hedlund found herself initially rejected by the town in January 1933. The reason at the time was that she wanted to build a house and restaurant combination. The town was hesitant as the area was only zoned for residential houses. 

     A second application was accepted in February to allow the building to be constructed on Falmouth Heights Road. This contained three conditions for the establishment. There must be adequate parking. The restaurant must close no later than 9:30 pm. Third was the curious rule that dancing was prohibited. 

Inside The Bellows(Falmouth Historical Society)

     Local builder John DeMello erected the tearoom. Patrons were met with a large reception hall upon entering. The white pine walls, beamed ceiling, and fireplace screamed ‘home.’ The large dining area was complete with maple furniture and a spectacular view of a pine tree-lined garden. 

     Thekla Hedlund, assisted by her daughters Marie and Greta, was ready for the grand opening which occurred on June 17, 1933. Interestingly at this time Hedlund still maintained the Lustre Tea Room.

The Bellows menu from August 1934

     Word spread slowly during the first season. Hedlund relied on her reputation from the Lustre Tea Room and positive feedback from those customers who took a chance on her new establishment. Those who did come in for breakfast, lunch, or dinner were treated to fine cuisine. Local lobsterman Sam Cahoon, who had provided lobsters to Hedlund at Lustre, caught them for The Bellows as well. 

     This was no tearoom. It was a full-fledged restaurant. The menu was loaded with delicious choices like chicken, steak, lobster, swordfish, and the very popular corn fritters. There was an array of soups, sandwiches, and desserts. The centerpiece of the menu was the Shore Dinner. For $1.75($41.22 in 2025) one could get an appetizer, main dish with sides, dessert, and beverage. 

The Bellows Shore Dinner choices.

     A seasonal spot, The Bellows set a schedule of opening in mid-June and closing in mid-September. Thekla returned to Long Island with her two daughters for the winter.

     Upon returning to the Cape for the start of the second season at The Bellows, Hedlund found that business was booming. Whereas in the first season, one could show up and find a table, it was now necessary for people to telephone ahead and make reservations. 

     Perhaps it was Sam Cahoon’s fresh lobsters, which were part of a $1.50($34.56 in 2025) lobster dinner. It could have been the $.75($17.28 in 2025) dinner specials every night but Sundays and holidays. Whatever it was, The Bellows was a certified hit, and it would only get bigger. 

     In the summer of 1935, Thekla finally had to sell the Lustre Tea Room to focus solely on the booming Bellows. It was George Doubtfire who bought the Centerville establishment from Thekla. In 1938, Hedlund received permission to expand The Bellows and it was sorely needed. The business was getting too big for the original building. John DeMello returned to help build two additions.  

The Bellows menu from 1934 with the daily specials.

     The Bellows grew in business and reputation into the 1940s, with Thekla and her daughters shouldering the load. Often were the days when people waited outside for tables. It was a dream scenario for Hedlund, but the good times came with a price. That wear and tear eventually came to claim Hedlund. In August 1945, nearing the end of her twelfth busy season at The Bellows, Thekla suffered a cerebral hemorrhage. Her daughters immediately closed down to tend to their mother. 

     Despite their best efforts, Thekla would never again open The Bellows. Thekla’s health worsened with a stroke and a fall resulting in a broken hip. The beloved restaurant was sold in March 1946 to Charles Colligan when it became apparent that Thekla would never be able to undertake her duties again. 

     The Falmouth Enterprise newspaper upon the sale of The Bellows commended Hedlund’s creation. She in turn was modest, remarking from her hospital bed: “We don’t deserve so much praise, but it makes me very happy.”

     Thekla passed away on April 13, 1946, at Symmes Hospital in Arlington, Massachusetts at the age of seventy-two. Charles Colligan sold The Bellows less than two weeks after Thekla’s death to New Hampshire restaurateur William Doukas. The sale was held up briefly as it appeared that Colligan had bought and sold the establishment before even taking control of the title.  

     Doukas carried on Thekla’s tradition as best he could. He brought in well-established chef Val Daigle from Dinty Moore’s in Boston. Doukas spent two seasons running The Bellows. 

     Doukas sold The Bellows to prolific local businessman John Sheehan in February 1948. Sheehan turned The Bellows into an inn with accommodations for up to thirty-five guests. He also renamed it the Red Horse Inn, possibly due to his love of horse racing. After fifteen years The Bellows was officially no more.

     Sheehan opened the new Red Horse Inn on June 19, 1948. It had a public dining room that could seat forty. It appeared as though Sheehan was keeping the restaurant lineage alive at the location on Falmouth Heights Road. This included bringing aboard Edward Masterson the former chef at Chatham Bars Inn.

     The dual role of the Red Horse Inn did not last. Over time the food service was phased out and the establishment was run as a guest house only by Sheehan’s parents. 

Red Horse Inn in 2024

     In 1952, the Red Horse Inn was sold to Raymond Duffy to be used as a guest house with no restaurant. Previously Duffy and his wife Dorothy had owned the Falmouth Stationary store. Though the couple had good intentions their other business ventures required a lot of their time. This meant that their ownership of the Red Horse Inn was relatively brief.

     They sold the property to Grace and Bob Cashman in July 1956. However, they ran the inn for the remainder of that season before ultimately moving to Denver, Colorado. Their sale meant that the establishment had been sold five times in the ten years since Thekla Hedlund’s death.

     The Cashmans worked hard to make the Red Horse Inn into a landmark in Falmouth. They brought some much-needed stability to the former Bellows and held onto it for forty-seven years. It was sold to Cape Cod business icon William Zammer who was owner until his death in 2021. As of 2025, Red Horse Inn is still thriving. 

     However, one cannot help but think back to a different time, a different generation. Thekla Hedlund’s principles of good food and unwavering quality in cooking and service are the hallmarks of any great restaurant. It is easy to understand why The Bellows was one of the first true iconic establishments on Cape Cod. 

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - The Unsolved Murder of Clarence Parker

 

    He was a lifelong Cape Codder. He was a war hero. He was a hard working and well respected member of the community. So why was he brutally gunned down on his front lawn? More importantly, why has this case remained unsolved for nearly a century? This is the story, as it is known, of the unsolved murder of Falmouth’s Clarence Parker.

    Clarence A. Parker was born in Falmouth on January 15, 1893 to Willoughby and Lillian Parker. He was educated through the Falmouth school district before taking up work at H.V. Lawrence’s greenhouses in town. Parker from a young age was a handsome, jovial, and popular man. The type of person that the community was proud to call one of their own.

    When World War I broke out Parker was drafted into the Army. He was assigned to Fort Devens in Ayer, Massachusetts. Before leaving to go to war Parker married Janet Howitt. Their ceremony was pushed up to September 19, 1917. The couple would go on to have a daughter Alis and a son Gordon, while living at 62 Walker Street close to Clarence’s parents.

    Parker returned to Cape Cod in July 1919 after serving as Private at Camp Baranquine in France. He spent much of the 1920’s building on his positive reputation, holding town offices such as deputy clerk. The biggest break for Parker came in March 1927 when the Atlantic & Pacific Tea Company (A&P) opened its second Cape Cod store. The first had been in Hyannis but the second was on Main Street in Falmouth and the grocery store chain wanted Parker as their manager.

How A&P Looked in the late 1920's.

    A loving husband and father, a main member of the American Legion Auxiliary and a popular respected manager of the local A&P, Clarence Parker didn’t have any shortage of friends. That was why what happened in the early morning hours of September 7, 1930 so shocking.

    Shortly after midnight on Sunday morning September 7, 1930 Parker closed up the A&P. He had brought a leg of lamb wrapped in brown paper home with him. After pulling his car into the garage Parker walked across his lawn. It was at about 12:20am that a single shot rang out. Janet heard the shot from inside and opened the front door to find Clarence face down only a few feet from the door. He was dead.

The scene of the crime. Parker's former house on Walker Street on the left. (Google Maps)

    The unknown assailant took the leg of lamb and ran off through the backyard leaving their revolver behind. The theory was that it was robbery. The assailant thought that Parker had brought the store’s money home to be deposited when in fact he had done that the day before. This was cemented when the leg of lamb was found in a nearby field opened, likely dumped when it was proven to not be money.

    Ann Richardson, owner of the Elm Arch Inn, could only describe a ‘hatless’ man running across her property after the shooting. The assailant was believed to have escaped in a car parked on Shore Street.

Shore Street where the getaway car might have been located. (Sturgis Library)

    A beloved member of the Falmouth community had been coldly killed steps from his front door. The rage from the townspeople was palpable. In total $4,000($65,700 in 2021) worth of rewards were offered including $2,500 from A&P. It was seen as an example of how highly regarded Parker was. Another example was the overflowing services at Parker’s funeral. It was hoped, and expected, that the Falmouth Police would solve the heinous crime quickly. What came was a series of leads that would be debunked.

    The first was only a few weeks later. An abandoned Chrysler car was found near Silver Lake in Kingston. It had suspicious markings on a story about the murder from the New Bedford Standard Times. However it was confirmed by State Police that the car had been stolen from Stedman Buttrick of Concord, Massachusetts after the murder would have taken place. In addition the car was out of gas and the battery was dead when found.

    Next came a salacious editorial piece from the Brockton Enterprise. It said that Parker’s murder was connected to illegal rum running. Going further by surmising that Parker had knowledge of rum gangs activities but after refusing to join them was murdered to keep him quiet. Falmouth Police Chief Herbert Lawrence dismissed the rumors.

    By the end of 1930 there had been no arrests. The reorganization and enlargement of the Falmouth Police Department was demanded and expected due to the perceived failure. Chief Lawrence resigned at the end of 1930 citing poor health.

    The investigation remained ongoing throughout 1931. Lt. Joseph Ferrari of the homicide bureau of the State Police said they were still investigating but it was baffling the lack of clues as to the killer’s identity.

    In August 1932 convicted Mashpee murderer Sylvester Fernandes, before his death in the electric chair, purportedly gave the name of Parker’s killer to District Attorney William Crossley, he then tried to substantiate it but it was fruitless. For two years there had been little in the way of progress or even clues in the murder of Clarence Parker.

    The closest lead, and likeliest scenario, came to light in November 1932. Boston District Attorney William Foley got new lead from arrested Boston gangster Morris Cohen of Dorchester. Cohen said that a young man named Murton Millen was a running with a well known liquor racketeer. It was while they were attending a liquor meeting in Falmouth that Millen purportedly went to rob Parker.

    He lurked in the shrubs of Parker’s home on Walker Street and waited. Cohen said that Millen then shot him a few feet from his door with cold-blooded precision. Parker died almost instantly. However the robbery was a failure due to it being lamb and not money in the brown paper. It seemed to tie in with previous theories of a failed robbery and an out-of-town killer made sense as Parker was exceedingly popular. This theory had doubt cast on it by Lt. Joseph Ferrari as he saw Millen as too young to run with liquor gangs. With cold water thrown on the latest lead the case went cold for several years.

Clarence Parker's grave in Falmouth.

    New leads came to light in September 1936 almost 400 miles north in Montreal, Canada. Several members of local law enforcement went north to interrogate someone who was in Falmouth at the time of the murder. This led to seven more people being interviewed in Hyannis as a part of these new developments. Sadly despite all of the bluster nothing came from the interrogations. The case went cold and Clarence Parker became just a name on a headstone in Oak Grove Cemetery.

    It has been 91 years since Clarence Parker was coldly gunned down on his own front lawn. It has also been 85 years since any meaningful leads were investigated. The case has gone cold and will likely remain unsolved. Whether it was a young rum runner and a botched robbery, or something not yet explored, the bottom line is that a young husband and father, and popular member of the community, was killed and the murderer has never been identified.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Previous Blog Posts:

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Cape Cod Community College

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Charles Freeman: The Man Who Sacrificed His Daughter For God

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com

Zazzle Store: Cape Cod Living

In Their Footsteps: New England History - Henry & Elsie Baumann, From Escaping the Nazis to Finding Success in New England

 

Many Cape Cod restaurants have interesting or inspiring stories behind their creation. Few have stories more deeply entrenched in world history than the story behind Elsie’s and its owners Elsie and Henry Baumann. Long before creating a legacy in the restaurant industry Elsie and Henry were part of something much greater. They were two of the 282,000 Jewish citizens who fled Germany in the years leading up to the start of World War II in September 1939.

Henry Baumann was born December 12, 1903 and Elsie was born March 28, 1912 in Nuremberg, Germany. The couple was living in the Germany with their two young sons, Edward and Rudolph, with Henry making a relatively good living in the meat business. As Hitler and the Nazi Party gained power things changed dramatically. The Baumann Family was planning on leaving Germany behind, something they never wanted to do.

Nuremberg, Germany in 2015 (Ввласенко, Wikimedia)

    One night in late 1938 eight armed men awakened the family during the night. They tore up their home, terrorized the two young boys, and most alarming they took Henry off to a concentration camp. In a tremendous bit of luck due to the fact that Henry’s emigration papers had already been issued the Gestapo allowed him to leave for America. It was only Henry though. Elsie along with Edward and Rudolph were left behind in Nazi Germany.

    Henry arrived in America and waited in New York for word of his family’s arrival. For six months the Gestapo routinely interrogated Elsie, asking her why she wanted to leave Germany so badly. It took until July 1939 for Elsie to be able to leave to join her husband in America. They had escaped what would end up being one of the most horrifying events in history, the Holocaust.

    With the Nazi’s now behind them things started slowly in America for the Baumann’s. Upon arrival they both spoke no English and had a mere four dollars to their names. The Baumann’s found their way to Lowell, Massachusetts. Henry found work in a meat factory while Elsie worked for the Red Cross.

Harvard Square, 1936 (Richard Merrill)

    They learned English and became American citizens in 1944. Henry and Elsie worked hard to save money for several years in Cambridge before taking their first major step forward. In the late-1940’s the couple would purchase a small shop in the Boston suburb and name it Hunter’s Lunch. Their first step forward would last only four years as the property would be taken by eminent domain to make way for the new Southeast Expressway.

    In 1955 Elsie and Henry got another chance and it would pay off in a big way. They bought the restaurant on the corner of Mount Auburn and Holyoke Street in the Harvard Square section of Cambridge. There they opened a sandwich shop they named Elsie’s Lunch. It specialized in German food but became well known for a pair of sandwiches. The ‘Fresser’s Dream’ sandwich would contain a heaping portion of meats including ham, turkey, and corned beef. It would only be topped by Elsie’s ‘Roast Beef Special.’ The thinly-sliced meat was topped with onions, German mustard, Russian dressing, and relish. The best part of all was these scrumptious sandwiches were only 50 cents.

    Elsie’s attracted people from all around. It included students and staff from nearby colleges and John and Robert Kennedy. The sandwich shop would open every day at 6am with Elsie as the face of the establishment and Henry as the soul of it. Elsie’s kind heart and generous listening skills got her the nickname of the ‘adopted mother of Harvard.’ The couple did their best to make the establishment feel like a home kitchen as much as possible. Henry and Elsie were happy and proud to have made it in America. Their love of where they were and what they did shone through. It made Elsie’s a place to be in and around Boston.

    After a decade of running the shop the daily grind began to take its toll on Elsie. She was there often until 2am making sure everything was clean. This attention to detail caught up with her in January 1965 when she had a heart attack. It made it impossible for Elsie to continue a full-time schedule. She and Henry made the difficult decision to sell their immensely popular establishment shortly thereafter. It was particularly difficult as the little sandwich shop was selling between 1200-1500 roast beef sandwiches every day. The Baumann’s found the perfect new owners in Philip and Claudette Markell. They agreed to not change Elsie’s even in the slightest which eased the Baumann’s pain of leaving their business behind.

The former location of Elsie's in Harvard Square. (Google Maps)

    The Baumann’s would retire and travel after selling their Cambridge establishment. They returned to Germany nearly thirty years after leaving. After traveling the family came to Cape Cod and settled in Falmouth. However the down time would start to wear on them.

    Only a year after selling their Cambridge restaurant Elsie and Henry purchased James Rogers’ Greenhouse Sandwich Shop at 553 Palmer Avenue. It was there that they recreated Elsie’s Lunch for the Cape in 1966. It would have much the same menu as the Cambridge spot with the ‘Fresser’s Dream’ and ‘Roast Beef Special’ becoming popular to an entirely new set of clientele. The couple had expected their new venture to be a quiet lunch venture. In a fitting tribute to the quality of the food there would routinely be lines out the door of hungry patrons waiting to get their share of the delicious sandwiches.

Henry and Elsie Baumann inside their Falmouth location. (Falmouth Historical Society)

    Despite not being nearly as booming as its Cambridge counterpart, Elsie’s in Falmouth was a success and would be a staple of Falmouth’s restaurant scene for twenty years until Elsie and Henry decided it was time to retire in 1986. Crabapples Restaurant has taken up residence at 553 Palmer Avenue ever since.

    The Cambridge original Elsie’s would last until 1994 as of 2021 Playa Bowls stands where this icon once did. Henry and Elsie remained married for 58 years before his death in 1991. Elsie died on February 3, 2002 at the age of 89. They came from Germany with no money and speaking no English and ended up with not one but two successful restaurants in Massachusetts. Henry and Elsie Baumann left behind not only a legacy in the restaurant business but more importantly a legacy of hard work, survival, and perseverance as they made their way thousands of miles from their homeland to escape the growing evil of the Nazis.

--------------------------------------------------------

Previous Blog Posts:

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Lawrence's Sandwich Depot, Falmouth

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Christine's, West Dennis

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com

Zazzle Store: Cape Cod Living

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Lawrence's Sandwich Depot, Falmouth Heights

    It served four generations of locals and visitors. It lasted from horses and buggies to smartphones and wifi. Whether a bakery, a sandwich depot, or a straight up restaurant, when it came to eating establishments on Cape Cod there was only one Lawrence’s. This is the long and storied history of this beloved business and the people that helped it last nearly a century.

    The tale of Lawrence’s goes back more than a century and a half to the birth of its namesake. Lyman M. Lawrence was born in Falmouth in 1850. As was common on Cape Cod in the 19th century ‘Lyme,’ as he was affectionately called, took a job on a ship at sea when he was a teenager. He was reported to have done at least one journey around the world in his time on the open ocean. Even after leaving the long journeys on whalers behind Lyme remained a sailor and fisherman. During his young adulthood Lawrence spent ample time on Martha’s Vineyard hunting and fishing. He even was said to have made good money in turtle hunting which included him sending his catch to Philadelphia restaurants.

    The trajectory of his life changed as he entered his 30’s. Lyman married Alice Upham of Bristol, Maine on May 11, 1882. They would remain together until his death. Even before he crossed over into the business world Lawrence was said to have been a habitual practical joker with a keen sense of humor. He was in every sense of the word a people person. The big break of Lyman’s business life came from an interaction with one of his closest friends and fishing buddy Dr. Walter Swazey.

Falmouth Heights 1908(Falmouth Public Library)

    A huge fan of fishing Lyme was typically out on a boat or in his small fishing shack on Grand Avenue cleaning his catch. However one day early in 1892 he was struck with a flare up of his rheumatoid arthritis and thus was not able to go fishing. Lawrence instead visited his friend Swazey and began to measure his fishing shack. It was 12x12-feet. Lyme turned to Swazey and remarked that it was the size of the store he was planning to build.

Falmouth Public Library

    In time for the summer season of 1892 Lyman Lawrence had done just that. Already in his early-40’s Lyme built a small bakery on the corner of Nantucket Avenue and Indiana Avenue overlooking the water in Falmouth Heights. His wife Alice was his first assistant. The initial patrons of Lawrence’s Sandwich Shop were met with a simplistic setup. Inside the tiny shop was a counter, a kerosene lamp, one chair, and a peanut roaster. The food on hand was equally as simplistic. Typically there would be a bunch of bananas, some sliced ham and cheese, and bread made freshly in store by Lyme. He made the ham and cheese sandwiches to order for five cents. The bakery at first was a money loser, even when adjusted for inflation Lawrence was charging $1.50 per sandwich by 2021 standards.

    However as previously stated Lyme was a people person and his personality brought loyal customers back repeatedly. Business began to increase and the building began to expand. Word of mouth spread about the quality of the food with Lyman slicing the bread by hand, slathering on some butter, and filling it with ham and cheese. Naturally later a greater variety of meats came along. A major selling point for those who had never visited Lawrence’s Sandwich Shop was the attention to hygiene and cleanliness. Lyman and anybody he had working for him never touched a customer’s sandwich with bare hands. From the cutting of the fresh bread to the finished sandwich product utensils were used to create the food. At the turn of the 20th century Lyme was ahead of his time.

    In the early 1900’s the business grew, as did the somewhat wacky escapades of its owner. A favorite past time of Lawrence was to get a customer sitting inside eating and while they were doing so he would sneak out, unhitch their horse, and quietly lead it away. The customer would be agitated at first before laughing and realizing they had been pranked by Lyme.

    On many days people would come to have a light lunch and commiserate on beautiful Falmouth Heights. There were equally as many evenings where Lawrence would hold court outside his shop swapping stories. One legendary story consisted of a time that a pair of thieves were seen by Dr. Swazey stealing the dory owned by he and Lyman. After procuring a boat owned by Webster Draper of the nearby Cottage Club Swazey and Lawrence gave chase. One of the thieves fired a shot toward the pair. However Swazey returned fire and shattered one of the oars from the dory. Shortly thereafter the thieves surrendered. They were returned to shore by Swazey and Lyman with a crowd of 50-60 on the beach cheering. It turned out the thieves had escaped from the Barnstable jail.

    In 1912 Lyman hired a young man named Clifford Wood to help him run his increasingly busy sandwich shop. Lawrence typically hired one or two people to help him each summer and learn his sandwich making methods. Wood however was in it for the long haul. After working alongside Lyme for more than a decade Wood made him an offer. Lyman sold the business to Clifford in 1926 and quietly slipped off into retirement in Lake Worth, Florida at 76.

    With Wood running the ship Lawrence’s Sandwich Shop became the Sandwich Depot. In 1931 the biggest change since its inception came when a brand new building was created. Gone was the tiny sandwich shack, here was a building that could seat 350. The business itself enlarged on the corner of what became #24 Nantucket Avenue. It was complete with knotty pine walls, hand-hewn beams, a fireplace, two outdoor gardens for summer, and a pond.

The interior of the new building. (Falmouth Public Library)

    Though it was no longer simplistic Lawrence’s Sandwich Depot kept its roots close. The sandwich making process remained virtually unchanged albeit on a much larger scale. A counter ran the entire length of one end of the building with a soda fountain sitting in front of an authentic ship’s wheel. It hearkened back to Lyman’s fishing history. The main attachment to its past was Lyme himself. Although fully retired he could not stay away. In fact he spent the entire summer of 1933 working full-time hours at the new location. That summer would be Lyme’s last at his former establishment and his last visit to Cape Cod.

    Lawrence’s health began to fail near the end of the summer of 1936. His old friend Clifford Wood made it a point to be there for him in his time of need. Lyman Lawrence died October 12, 1936 at the age of 87. Falmouth and Cape Cod as a whole mourned the loss of a one-of-a-kind character and hugely popular businessman.

    Clifford Wood carried on the legacy of Lawrence’s Sandwich Depot. It held tight to its past while also embracing its popularity as a more traditional restaurant.  The only thing to slow the growth of the establishment was World War II which led to Lawrence’s remaining closed in 1943. Clifford made the Sandwich Depot a centerpiece of summer life in Falmouth Heights. He held the reigns of the establishment until his death in October 1955 at the age of 60. Clifford’s wife Idamae took over for him and continued the success into the 1960’s.

    Lawrence’s Sandwich Depot was passed down to Clifford and Idamae’s son Donald. It was rechristened Lawrence’s Restaurant. Despite the name change Donald was fond of holding nostalgic memorabilia events at the establishment that relived and celebrated its rich history. He ran it until 1986 when it was sold to James Carroll. Lawrence’s Restaurant continued to be a summer favorite in The Heights into the 21st century.

Where Lawrence's once stood. (Google Maps)

    From the days of horses and buggies to the days of cell phones and internet, Lawrence’s was there through it all. Whether a simple bakery, a sandwich shop, or full-fledged summer restaurant, the people came to visit the establishment on Nantucket Avenue. Behind the century of success though was a modern thinker who screamed ‘Olde Cape Cod.’ Lyman Lawrence mixed his traditional upbringing with a contemporary sense of business, added an ample amount amount of good humor and bright personality to create someone still beloved nearly a century after his death. The memory of Lawrence’s will long echo among the people of Falmouth Heights.

------------------------------------------------------------------

Previous Blog Posts:

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Edna Harris, Pioneer of Cape Cod Business

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Christine's, West Dennis

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com

Zazzle Store: Cape Cod Living

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Edna Harris Cape Cod Business Pioneer

    The story of Edna Harris is one of ingenuity, success, and determination. In a time when women as business owners was rare Harris found herself in that position multiple times. She was connected to some of the most beloved establishments in Cape Cod history. It was during the first half of the 20^th century that Edna Harris became a Cape Cod icon and business icon alike. This is her story.

    Edna Lincoln Sprague was born in Watertown, Massachusetts on August 4, 1877. She married William Harris in Taunton in June 1900. The couple would have four children, three of whom had been born when the couple made their way to Cape Cod in 1912.

    Edna’s first foray into business on Cape Cod came in the form of the Megansett Tea Room in North Falmouth. The opening day was June 21, 1913 and it was the subject of rave reviews from the get-go. From the beautifully decorated interior to the comfortable chairs on an attractive piazza this new establishment was primed for success. Like many Cape businesses the Megansett Tea Room was seasonal, closing in October to allow the Harris’ to head back home to Watertown for the winter.

Megansett Tea Room(Falmouth Public Library)

    Not one to rest on her laurels Edna made constant tweaks and improvements to her tea room in the hopes of increasing business. It was this desire to stay ahead of the curve that would serve her well in her Cape business career. Some new features eventually included a dance room decked out in yellow and black complete with an orchestra run by Sidney Reinherz in 1920. There was also a gift shop added. The new features worked and an addition was built on the Megansett Tea Room in 1923 out of necessity. Edna Harris was an undeniable success and soon others wanted a piece of the action.

    In 1930 the Crane family asked Edna to take over the lease of their Coonamessett Inn. At this time Coonamessett consisted of a large ranch house overlooking the pond of the same name. Under Harris it became an icon of Cape Cod. In the beginning she tried to run both Coonamessett and her beloved Megansett Tea Room. This proved to be impossible and Edna gave up Megansett in 1934, the property taken over by the Watertown Bank. After sitting vacant and deteriorating for several years the venerable establishment was eventually torn down.

The original Coonamessett Inn(Falmouth Public Library)

    At the Coonamessett Inn however Edna’s success boiled over. Being in close proximity to the Falmouth Playhouse brought internationally known performers in. This was closely followed by high ranking politicians like Massachusetts Governor James Michael Curley and people from the financial world. These people all raved about the food and accommodations at the Coonamessett, but more so than that they raved about Edna Harris. World War II saw military officials frequenting the Coonamessett as Camp Edwards was close by. This massive success achieved by Harris in the early to mid 1940’s gave her the confidence to make yet another big move in Cape Cod business.

    In March 1947 Harris took over the lease of another up and coming Cape establishment, the Popponesset Inn. Opened in 1941 Popponesset at the time had 26 small family cottages, hotel, restaurant and cocktail lounge. Being wary of what happened when she tried running both the Coonamessett and Megansett Tea Room at the same time Edna placed her eldest daughter Hilda Coppage in charge as manager.

    Great food, décor, and entertainment at Coonamessett made Edna Harris a household name on Cape Cod and far beyond. Now she was adding that touch to the Popponesset. These facts made it more surprising when in August 1953 the Crane family alerted Edna that her lease at Coonamessett was not being renewed. The property was sold to Richard Treadway, owner of a string of Treadway Inns. By this time Harris was 75 and could have easily gone sweetly into retirement. However she was determined to not be pushed out of a place she made into a giant of Cape Cod hospitality.

    In a stroke of genius Edna Harris secured financial backing and purchased the Robert Longyear house at Gifford Street and Jones Road in Falmouth in September 1953. After it was approved to be run as an inn Edna had the Coonamessett liquor license, of which she was in ownership of, transferred to the new property. In a beautiful irony since the original Coonamessett property was to be renamed Treadway Inn this meant that the Coonamessett name was available to be incorporated by Edna Harris. The final twist came when she also took much of the furniture from the old property and brought it to the new location.

    On November 24, 1953 Edna Harris’ Coonamessett Inn reopened in the new location a mere three months after she had been told her lease would not be renewed. It was a massive triumph for Harris who kept all of what made her Coonamessett special despite moving to a new location. In a bit of karma the Treadway Inn which took over the property at Coonamessett Pond failed and became Clauson’s Inn at Coonamessett in early 1958.

    Edna Harris continued successfully running her new Coonamessett Inn well into her 80’s. Her daughter Hilda Coppage carved out her own legacy at Popponesset with guests marveling at her rapid-fire wit. She was seen as Cape Cod’s answer to comedian Shelley Berman. The mother-daughter combo dominated the Upper Cape for nearly a decade.

    After a short illness Edna passed away on January 6, 1967 at the age of 89. She had been working hard at Coonamessett until her body literally could not give any more. Her daughter Hilda Coppage ran the Coonamessett for a few more years before selling it in 1969 to Josiah K. Lilly.

    Edna Harris was beloved and admired. Her legacy followed her even after she left this world. In a time where woman were seen as merely a Mrs. to their husband, rarely having their actual names mentioned in the newspaper, Edna Harris broke through and left an indelible mark on Cape Cod and beyond. She was a pioneer for women in positions of power in business and a true icon of Cape Cod hospitality.

------------------------------------------

Previous Blog Posts:

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - The Dome Restaurant, Woods Hole

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - The Lincoln Lodge, Harwich

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com

Zazzle Store: Cape Cod Living