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Showing posts with label native americans. Show all posts
Showing posts with label native americans. Show all posts

Thursday, October 16, 2025

Washburn Island and World War II - Cape Cod History




Despite Cape Cod being a relatively small location (approximately 339 square miles), some places are far less traveled. Most of these locations come in the form of small islands located in and around the peninsula.

A few examples include Strong Island in Chatham, which is 75 acres and consists primarily of marshland. There is Sipson Island, which is 25 acres and has been privately owned for over three centuries. Sampsons Island in Cotuit is a 15-acre nature preserve. Bassetts Island in Pocasset is 60 acres of beaches and upland forest. There is even more to be explored, but none has the wealth of history and the air of mystery that exists on Washburn Island.

Washburn Island is approximately 330 acres in size and sits inside Waquoit Bay off East Falmouth. Today it’s a largely undeveloped, pine-and-oak–covered island with a popular primitive campsite and a handful of sandy beaches. That calm surface hides a layered past: Indigenous seasonal use, 19th-century farms and Gilded-Age summer estates, and dramatic storms. Perhaps most intriguing is the island’s surprising role in World War II amphibious training.



Long before European colonists arrived, the island was used seasonally by Native Americans. They referred to the island as Menauhaunt. Archaeological finds like shell middens, stone flakes, and other artifacts show human activity in and around Waquoit Bay and Washburn Island for many centuries. Through the 1700s and 1800s, the island was intermittently used for grazing livestock and small farms. In the 19th century, three farms existed on the island, two of which were gone by the end of the century. By that point, the future Washburn Island had attracted private owners.

In 1900, Henry A. Bryant, whose family had opened the Pacific Northwest to the shipping trade, acquired the property. On it, he had built a large three-story summer house overlooking Waquoit Bay and Vineyard Sound. For a time, a hand ferry connected the island to the mainland with a landing on the Seapit River at present-day Ferry Road.

Henry Bryant died suddenly on January 6, 1904, at the young age of forty-six. The estate on the island was left to his widow, Alida. She held on to the property until 1912, when it was sold to a group of bankers and corporate investors. This included the former U.S. Ambassador to Austria, Albert Washburn.

Albert Washburn c. 1920(Library of Congress)


At first, the purchase was only for the former Bryant estate, with the rest planned to be sold in parcels for development. Those plans fell through, and Albert Washburn and his wife, Florence, bought the rest of the island for their own private use.

The Washburns erected a wondrous compound. In addition to moving into the Bryant estate, the Washburns constructed a stable, a barn, a boathouse, a pier, and a narrow bridged causeway. The family name is what the island is usually called today.

The bridge to Washburn Island looking west toward the mainland.(Falmouth Historical Society)


The main house burned to the ground on October 26, 1926, thanks to a fire starting inside a defective chimney. The soft sand near the bridged causeway severely affected the arrival time of firefighters. By the time the blaze had been quelled, all that remained were the servants' quarters. The barn and most of the farm remained intact. A modest farmhouse was built to give the Washburns a place to live during their summers on the island.

Albert Washburn died suddenly of food poisoning in Vienna in April 1930, leaving the island in a state of flux. The estate never fully recovered, and the property shifted toward recreational use after that period. This was mostly because while the island was still owned by Florence Washburn, she never marked the property or imposed any restrictions on visitors.

Florence and the rest of her family began spending less and less time on the island in the early 1930s. It became a haven for those using the island for picnicking and recreation. Unfortunately, some took advantage of this generosity by looting the farmhouse and vandalizing parts of the island.

A massive hurricane in 1938 dramatically changed the island's appearance. It washed away the causeway and bridge. This left Florence Washburn with no easy access to the island where the farmhouse remained. The storm surge also ripped a channel open in the area that was 125 feet wide and seven feet deep. For the first time in decades, Washburn Island truly was an island.

Washburn Island’s most dramatic chapter came along with World War II. Florence Washburn, who had been living exclusively in Hanover, New Hampshire, said in June 1942 that she wanted to rebuild her beloved island that had been severely damaged by vandals. However, she couldn’t get the assurances needed to protect her property rights.

A perfect storm came up as the U.S. military rapidly expanded amphibious training in the early 1940s. Needing coastal areas to prepare troops for beach landings in both the European and Pacific areas, the military looked to Washburn Island. With Florence unable to rebuild the island the way she wanted, she instead leased several tracts of land to the federal government.

The Army’s amphibious units (Engineer Boat and Shore Regiments and associated training commands operating out of Camp Edwards and nearby facilities) used the island for landing exercises. To create a proper base, there was the construction of a crisscross of several temporary roads and five finger-like piers that stretched nearly 900 feet out into the water. Washburn Island also saw drill fields, parade grounds, and an obstacle course. Once completed, the island served as a training ground for two years.

Despite wishing for the operations at Washburn to be secret, it was easy for locals to spot what was going on. It became commonplace to spot barges landing on the beach and soldiers wading through the water in full gear with rifles held overhead. After the war ended, Cape Codders proudly referred to Washburn Island as the ‘Cradle of Invasions,’ and the troops as ‘Cape Cod Commandos.’

Perhaps the wildest scene during these operations was the full-scale mock invasion the troops performed on Martha’s Vineyard. This included traversing the rough seas of Vineyard Sound and landing at designated sites at Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs on the north side of the island, more than five miles away.

A World War II amphibious vehicle, the DUKW.


For training purposes, the island was temporarily reconnected to the mainland via a sand causeway and wooden drawbridge that began at Ovington Point. Temporary structures were also built to support the effort. Contemporary accounts and later histories emphasize Washburn Island’s role as one of the local training beaches where soldiers practiced the skills, including small-craft landings, that would be vital in Normandy, the Mediterranean, and Pacific operations.

Washburn Island’s importance began to dwindle in 1943 due to harsh weather. The majority of the program was moved south to Carrabelle, Florida. Another major hurricane roared through in September 1944. This storm again destroyed the bridge and causeway. For a time, the military decided not to rebuild. It seemed as though this chapter of the story was over.

As World War II was coming to a close in the summer of 1945, Washburn Island got a new purpose. It became a place of recovery for those G.I.s returning from battle. The island that was not long before filled with amphibious vehicles and soldiers preparing for battle now looked far different.

On August 9, 1945, Washburn Island opened the Convalescent Hospital. It was staffed by twenty-five officers and men and was visited daily by 800 men who were transported to the island over the causeway via bus.

Recovering soldiers had access to surfboards, diving rafts, boats for fishing, lounge chairs, and various other beach games. Lt. Victor Dauer, the commanding officer of Washburn Island, emphasized that the facilities were meant for total physical and mental relaxation. Soldiers from all across the country came to Washburn. They got a slice of the good life as the highly regarded Coonamessett Club temporarily operated only to serve those veterans.

When all of the soldiers who had needed help had been taken care of, it was time for Washburn Island to be returned to its namesake. The structures that had been erected were all torn down, leaving only cement slabs on the island. The government gave the island back to Florence Washburn; however, it had changed dramatically.

Numerous trees had been cut down to make way for the military buildings, or they had been felled by the hurricane. The structures that did remain included the old farmhouse, the barn, an ice house, and a bath house. One thing that would not remain was the bridge. In late September 1946, the wooden bridge was removed, and Washburn truly was an island again.

The structures left on the island were left to slowly decay over the years, leading to their eventual razing. Despite the island being deserted, Florence refused to sell, even stating on numerous occasions that she would ‘never’ sell the island. She did, however, continue to allow visitors to the island for recreation up until her death on January 27, 1953.

Florence’s son, Dr. Lincoln Washburn, continued his mother’s policy of allowing visitors and also to never sell the property. This finally changed in 1976 when large increases in taxes in Falmouth got Dr. Washburn’s attention. Talks were loud in the coming years about potentially building a fifty-luxury-home subdivision complete with a 150-spot parking lot and a 200-foot dock. Luckily, the state stepped in to preserve the natural beauty.

In June 1983, the Commonwealth of Massachusetts acquired the island for $2.1 million($6.83 million in 2025). This was a far better option than the alternative.

Washburn Island was incorporated into the Waquoit Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve, which manages it for habitat protection, research, and low-impact recreation. Today, the Massachusetts Department of Conservation & Recreation (in partnership with the Reserve) manages camping, trails, and visitor access; the island contains primitive campsites, composting toilets, and marked trails but no developed utilities, preserving much of its wild character. What remains today on Washburn Island includes the natural features like a barrier beach, dunes, and salt ponds. There are also oak and pine forests and marshes, which are habitats for shorebirds and marine life. Except for the very small concrete slabs being overtaken by nature, there is nothing that remains from the days when the island was used as preparation for battle and the recovery from it.

Those looking to visit the island may do so. There can be day visits, beaching boats, hiking, and a small, reservation-only primitive campground (ten sites, plus one group site). Access to Washburn Island is by private boat only; there’s no public ferry. One can easily kayak to the island. The closest point to Washburn is at the Menauhaunt Yacht Club, which is less than one hundred feet. The island’s management emphasizes research, stewardship, and low-impact recreation.

In a local newspaper article in 1951, Washburn Island was seen as a place so badly damaged by storms and people that it could not be able to be salvaged. Nearly eighty years later, it stands as a pristine escape within an escape on Cape Cod. From the Native Americans, to the Bryants, to the Washburns, to the military, back to the Washburns, and finally to the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, this 330-acre property has had an incredible story. Luckily, it will remain a beautiful getaway for hikers, campers, and beachgoers when it easily could have become another private haven for the filthy rich, which makes up too much of Cape Cod as it is.

Looking across Waquoit Bay with Washburn Island on the right.



Sunday, July 6, 2014

In My Footsteps: Cape Cod - Nobscussett Burial Grounds

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, and stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter and YouTube for more on In My Footsteps.





Come and see me at Falmouth Public Library, July 31st, and



Yellow Umbrella, Chatham August 4th





Read the review for my book in The Boston Globe


Saturday, January 16, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 3: Dennis, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund


Trip 3: Dennis, Massachusetts

January 16, 2010


Located in the Mid-Cape area, Dennis has many well known attractions. The beaches are famous: West Dennis, Corporation, and Chapin to name a few. There are numerous historical landmarks including Scargo Tower. As in my other travel blogs I am trying to find places not as easily found on any vacation guide.

The journey begins quite aptly on historic Route 6A. Also known as Old King’s Highway, Route 6A was the most used roadway on Cape Cod before Route 28 and the Mid-Cape highway came around. Thought to have begun as an Indian trail from Plymouth to Provincetown, it became part of Plymouth’s ‘King’s Highway’ in the late 17th Century.

A drive along this road is a rich tapestry of historical homes and monuments. So protective of the history on Route 6A is the Cape that even changing the color of ones home is subject for intense debate at town meetings. This road in and of itself is a worthwhile adventure, complete with large oak trees hovering over the road and old horse hitching posts located just off of the sidewalk.

One of the first places to see is a spot that is technically in neighboring Yarmouth by about 1,000 feet. That would be Bray Farm(right). Established in 1639, this small farm is open to the public year round. Even on a sunny January day like today one can park and walk the grounds and see the animals roaming. From the requisite sheep, goats, and chickens, to donkeys, bees, and the oddly beautiful Scottish cattle, Bray Farm will thrill children and adults alike. The owners are very friendly and will gladly answer any questions you may have. There is even a boardwalk along the back end of the property with a spectacular view facing toward Grey’s Beach in Yarmouth.

A little further down Route 6A, just across the street from Osprey Lane is another piece of Cape Cod history. Through a natural tunnel of trees sits the burial ground of the Nobscussett tribe of Indians which lived in Dennis hundreds of years ago(left). The grounds are fenced in and marked by a stone stating that the chief of the tribe was named ‘Mashantampaine.’ Also the site holds a great view of Scargo Lake at the back end of the burial ground, but there are many other spots with better access to the lake.

One of those spots is a conservation area in close proximity to Scargo Tower, named Scargo Park. The tower and park are named for the legendary Nobscussett Indian Princess Scargo who was so beautiful that legend has it other Indian warriors would come from all parts of Cape Cod just to see her and bring gifts to help sustain her people.

Dennis, like much of Cape Cod, has numerous conservation areas great for hiking and animal watching. Scargo Park is a hidden gem down a windy dirt road just off of Scargo Hill Road. With an elevated view of Scargo Lake, along with swings for children and a sheltered picnic area, this conservation area is a worthwhile stop for any visitor.

Old Bass River Road, another historical drive, leads you to another great conservation area called Indian Lands. Located next to the Dennis Town Offices, the Indian Lands conservation area is actually closer to three areas in one. There is a set of paths which lead down toward Bass River with a great view of the Highbank Bridge. The master path runs along the power lines and is a tougher hike with soft sand and stones mixed together. The other pathway is a set of defunct railroad tracks(left) almost totally overgrown with small trees and plants. Follow these and you will come to a bridge crossing over Bass River with a view of the rushing highway traffic rushing by on the right.

Not to be missed in the same parking area as the Indian Lands and the Dennis Town Offices is another piece of history. Called either Old South Dennis Cemetery or Dennis Ancient Cemetery(right), it lies behind the Town Offices in a fenced in area but is accessible. The graves contain some of the last names most associated with Cape Cod. Names like Baker, Bangs, and Nickerson fill many of the plots.

There is nothing against all of the great beaches and other historical sites that Dennis has to offer. They should all be visited as well. Once those have all been seen, or if you are trying to see the Cape Cod that locals know, check out the places mentioned above. You won’t be disappointed. Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Bray Farm: from Rt. 6A turn on Bray Farm Road and follow it to the end.

Nobscussett Indian Burial Grounds: from Rt. 6A, turn left on Osprey Lane, located less than ½ mi. east of the Red Pheasant Inn. Grounds are directly across the street, but parking is difficult, may be better off walking to this spot from elsewhere.

Scargo Park: from Rt. 6A, turn onto Old Bass River Road. Take left onto Scargo Hill Road. Scargo Tower is designated by a big sign; Scargo Park is the second left after the tower.

Dennis Town Offices: from Rt. 6A, turn onto Old Bass River Road, follow it approximately four miles. The town offices are designated by a green sign on the right side. There is access to both the Indian Trails and the Dennis Ancient Cemetery from the parking lot.

References: Cape Cod Gravestones

The Legend of Princess Scargo

Cape Cod Commission - History of Rt. 6A