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Showing posts with label iyanough. Show all posts
Showing posts with label iyanough. Show all posts

Saturday, May 27, 2023

In Their Footsteps: Helen Keller and Cape Cod


    In life, most people have to deal with some sort of adversity. Only a rare few have a path uninterrupted by tough times. Now imagine being dealt several unimaginable tragedies. How would you react? Most would not be blamed for throwing their hands in the air and giving up.

    Young Helen Keller was robbed of her sight and hearing as a young child. Though incredibly difficult to comprehend to those with all five senses Helen not only navigated those rough waters but thrived in life. Helen Keller became a living miracle and an icon of perseverance.

    The journey from not being able to see or hear the world to writing twelve books was long and arduous. Some of that journey took place on Cape Cod in the town of Brewster. This is the story of Helen Keller and her time spent on the sandy peninsula.

    Helen Keller was born on June 27, 1880, in Tuscumbia, Alabama. She was born a typical healthy baby. In the months leading up to her second birthday, Helen was struck with an illness. It is uncertain if it was scarlet fever, meningitis, or something else, but the results were catastrophic. Barely a toddler Helen was rendered both blind and deaf.

    Early childhood was tough for Helen. She had no formal education and was prone to fits of anger due to not being able to communicate. Without sight or hearing she also did not speak. Therefore Helen developed home signs to convey her needs and wants. It was clear to her family that Helen was extremely intelligent and simply needed a teacher to be able to help her reach her potential.

Helen Keller reading as a teenager.(Boston Public Library)


    Helen’s mother Katherine searched for help from experts including famed telephone inventor Alexander Graham Bell. Ultimately Katherine was referred to a teacher named Anne Sullivan. She ended up being the most important person Helen Keller would ever meet.

    On March 3, 1887, Sullivan first met Helen at her home in Alabama. It seemed to be a match made in heaven. Sullivan was a graduate of Perkins School for the Blind in Watertown, Massachusetts. She was also nearly blind herself. This gave Sullivan a great deal of empathy toward what Helen was coping with. However, their relationship started rocky.

    During the first few weeks of their relationship, Helen kicked, bit, and pinched Sullivan, even knocking one of the teacher’s teeth out. She could have easily given up on Helen but she didn’t. Through patience and consistency, Anne Sullivan began to earn Helen’s trust.

    Sullivan taught Helen the alphabet by drawing letters on Helen’s palm. This included giving Helen a doll and spelling d-o-l-l into her hand. Within a few weeks, she had begun to understand. The key turning point was when Sullivan spelled w-a-t-e-r while also pumping water over Helen’s hand. From there on it was off to the races. Helen wanted to learn as many words as possible.

    A year was spent working at Helen’s home in Alabama. In May 1888 Sullivan brought Helen to Perkins School for the Blind. This was where Keller learned to read braille and also type with a specially-made typewriter. Helen learned 1,500 words within a year thanks to the help of Anne Sullivan and the Perkins School. Her miraculous achievements began to be chronicled in newspapers nationwide.

    It was in 1888 while studying at Perkins that Helen Keller’s connection to Cape Cod came to be. During her own studies at the Perkins School, Anne Sullivan met Brewster, Massachusetts resident Sophia Crocker-Hopkins. Hopkins had gotten a job as a house mother at Perkins after the tragic death of her daughter Florence in 1883. A sea captain’s widow, Sophia brought Sullivan home with her to Brewster during the school’s summer break to stay at her home located at 1491 Main Street. Sullivan fell in love with the Cape and wanted to share its majesty with young Helen.

    In July of 1888, Sullivan brought eight-year-old Helen down to Cape Cod for the first time. The pair stayed with Sophia at her boarding house in Brewster. It was during this initial visit that Helen first ventured to the sea. She took a series of sandy paths along with Anne to the area of present-day Breakwater Beach.

Breakwater Beach in Brewster, the area Helen visited in 1888.


    In her first autobiography, The Story of My Life, written in 1903, Helen wrote that her first encounter with the ocean was a mixed bag. She was enraptured by the smell of the salty air and fascinated by the sheer enormity of the ocean. Helen admitted that she could sense how big it was.

    The eight-year-old jumped into the water full of exuberance. It was then that her foot struck a rock and plunged her underwater. Though she was never in danger the experience did make her timid around the mighty ocean. Fortunately by the end of her time on Cape Cod that summer Helen was firmly in love with the ocean again. She even wrote in her autobiography a story of Anne bringing her a horseshoe crab and her amazement at it.

    It was during this first visit to Cape Cod that a famous photo was taken. A local photographer named Cornelius Chenery snapped a brilliant photo of young Helen sitting in a chair and cradling a doll that had been given to her by Sophia Crocker-Hopkins. Kneeling beside the child is Anne Sullivan looking on with what can only be described as pride. Throughout their time together Anne would take up that role of beaming with pride at Helen’s achievements from the background.

The famed photo of young Helen and Anne Sullivan taken in Brewster in July 1888.(Wikipedia)


    The first trip to Cape Cod was such a joy that Sullivan brought Helen back in May 1890 for a week's stay. Again they stayed with Sophia on Main Street in Brewster. The local newspapers heaped praise on Keller upon her return. At that point, they remarked that her vocabulary was north of 3,000 words. She also could recognize people she knew by their scent or even the clothes they wore. The most spectacular news relayed in the article was Helen learning to speak herself.

    The incredible achievement was learned first by Helen placing her hands on Anne’s throat and lips. Sullivan would speak and Helen would try to mimic the words. Not only did she speak but she did an interview. It was here that Helen spoke to a stranger for the first time in her life. In time Helen would also be able to ‘hear’ music as well.

    The next time Helen Keller visited Cape Cod was in July 1894. She and Anne Sullivan stayed with Sophia for much of the summer. However, by this point, fourteen-year-old Helen was somewhat of a national celebrity due to her incredible achievements despite tremendous adversity.

    This could not have been made more evident than when a reception was held in her honor. It was no ordinary reception. This was a party thrown by First Lady Frances Cleveland, wife of the-President Grover Cleveland, at their summer White House known as Gray Gables located in Bourne. Over her lifetime Helen Keller went on to meet every United States president from Cleveland to John F. Kennedy.

    Anne and Helen continued to visit Sophia in Brewster including in 1896 and 1897. In August 1903 Helen brought her mother Katherine with her to visit Sophia in Brewster. This was due to the fact that in 1901 Anne Sullivan suffered a major stroke that left her completely blind and she was recovering.

    1904 saw Helen graduate from Radcliffe College in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Her friend Mark Twain had introduced Helen to Standard Oil magnate Henry H. Rogers. He along with his wife Abbie had paid for Helen’s education. She was the first deaf-blind person to earn a Bachelor of Arts degree.

    In the fall of 1904 Helen and Anne purchased a house in Wrentham, Massachusetts. Located only an hour or so from Brewster meant that Sophia could visit her friends there during the winter. Not long after buying the house, Anne Sullivan married John A. Macy. He was a Harvard instructor and literary critic who had helped Helen in getting her works published.

The Iyanough House in Hyannis the site of Helen's last Cape visit in 1908.


    Macy moved in with Anne and Helen in Wrentham. He even joined them in staying at the then-new Iyanough House hotel on Main Street in Hyannis in September 1908. However, the marriage soon began to fall apart. That said, the couple would never officially divorce.

    Anne Sullivan’s health began to trend downward. Helen Keller’s celebrity and drive for social causes including disability rights and women’s suffrage only grew. This meant that visits to Cape Cod ended after the final trip in 1908. Helen remained in the spotlight on the Cape, just in the form of numerous newspaper articles about her amazing achievements.

Helen Keller's autobiography written in 1903.


    Sadly Anne passed away on October 15, 1936, at the age of 70. She and Helen had been inseparable for fifty years and Helen was there with her at the end. By the time of her own death on June 1, 1968, at the age of 87 Helen Keller was a legend.

    Helen Keller became a 20th-century icon with twelve books published and numerous articles. She championed social causes, was awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom, and was elected to the National Women’s Hall of Fame. All of this was done without the ability to see or hear the world around her. Helen Keller’s courage, intelligence, and unyielding determination, are the types of things that seem impossible.

    Over a period of 20 years, Helen made frequent visits to Cape Cod. She walked to the ocean and smelled the salty air. She soaked up the summer sun, touched the grass, and smelled the flowers. Cape Cod became a beloved part of her life much like it has for many who have lived and visited there.

1491 Main Street in Brewster where Helen stayed numerous times.


    The house Helen Keller stayed in numerous times over the years with Anne Sullivan still stands at 1491 Main Street in Brewster. Several artifacts from Helen’s time on Cape Cod can be viewed at the Brewster Historical Society in the Captain Elijah Cobb House at 739 Lower Road in Brewster.

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Purchase a DVD copy of the Lady of the Dunes documentary here:

Purchase the new book Searching for the Lady of the Dunes written by 12th Generation Cape Codder Christopher Setterlund.


Sources:



Sunday, February 28, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 27: Hyannis, Mass.


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 27: Hyannis, Mass.
February 28, 2010

            Taking its name as a derivative of the Wampanoag sachem, or chief, Iyanough, Hyannis is the commercial center of Cape Cod.  It is where most locals go to shop having several large shopping plazas, most notable the 800,000-plus square foot Cape Cod Mall.  Despite the retail prowess of the Hyannis area it was as recently as twenty-five years ago that this most industrialized Cape town still retained some of the quaintness the Cape is known for.  Historic Main Street can be walked and enjoyed at any time of year; there are still a few stores that have been there for more than fifty years including the Puritan clothing store.  Although it is first thought of in terms of shopping and restaurants Hyannis does hold more than just that.
            The first place to go to escape the bustle of Hyannis is to head for the water.  As you head for the water on Ocean Street the first spot to check out is Hyannis Harbor where the Hy-Line Ferries make frequent trips to and from Nantucket.  If you stay long enough you might get to see one of these impressive looking high-speed ferries up close.  There is the Michael Aselton Memorial Park, dedicated to a fallen Barnstable police officer, and the Cape Cod Maritime Museum on the grounds as well that should be taken in. 
            Further down Ocean Street are two great swimming beaches, Veterans Beach and Kalmus Beach.  Veterans Beach is made even more of an attraction thanks to the Korean War Memorial(left) and JFK Memorial located at the Veterans Memorial Park on the beach grounds.  The JFK Memorial consists of a wall with a plaque depicting the late-President’s face and a beautiful fountain.  The entire area is surrounded by sweet smelling flowers in the warmer months including several different colored roses.  The memorial is on a hill which gives a tremendous panoramic view of Lewis Bay and the boats entering and leaving the harbor.
            To the left of the JFK Memorial is the spectacular Korean War Memorial.  The statue of the American Soldier stands high above looking out over the water.  He is surrounded by flags including the American flag directly behind the statue.  It is a great patriotic attraction that needs to be made appointment viewing on any trip through Hyannis.  Veterans Beach itself is located next to the Hyannis Yacht Club and is sheltered somewhat from the harsh ocean.  Located on the north side of the beach is a river(right) that leads to a pond across Ocean Street.  This spot is a great place to see ducks, geese, seagulls, and even crows and hawks congregating.
At the end of Ocean Street is Kalmus Beach Park which straddles Lewis Bay and Nantucket Sound.  This sandy spit is a perfect spot to watch the boat entering the harbor and comes complete with a close up view of the private Great Island in Yarmouth.  It is relatively calm waters with a lot of open beach and a jetty on the Sound side that is commonly used for fishing.  Also on Lewis Bay is Lewis Bay Light(right).  Best seen from on the harbor or at nearby Bay View Beach the small lighthouse is a near replica of Nantucket’s Brant Point Light.  It was built for private use and is not accessible by the public but it can still be appreciated from the beach.
            Historic Main Street houses its own special places to visit.  Located across from the Puritan Clothing Co. is the JFK Museum.  This museum showcases Kennedy’s life and times on Cape Cod, it features more than eighty photos from 1934-63 and a video narrated by legendary journalist Walter Cronkite.  Not to be missed in the JFK Museum is the Cape Cod Baseball League Hall of Fame.  The Hall is located on the lower level of the JFK Museum also known as The Dugout and has a complete history of baseball on the Cape stretching back more than a hundred years.  In front of the museum is a newly dedicated bronze statue of JFK sporting a Hyannisport Polo shirt and walking through the beach sand and grass(below).  It is a great look into history while still being right in the middle of the busiest spot on the Cape.
            Also on Main Street is the Hyannis Village Green which is great for a stroll and also is used for concerts and other various events during the warmer months.  The Cape Cod Melody Tent which has been home to thousands of musical acts since 1950 sits just after the West End Rotary and is opened from June to August.  The Cape Cod Potato Chips factory sits on the north side of Hyannis in the Independence Park and is open for tours year-round.  Originally created by Steve and Lynn Bernard in 1980 Cape Cod Potato Chips rapidly grew in popularity and is now the most visited attraction in town seeing more than 250,000 people per year.
            Most locals and visitors to Hyannis never take the time to see what else this place has to offer.  From the beaches to the museums it is plain to see that Hyannis’s history and natural beauty is only matched by its commercial prowess.  Whatever you choose to do, a trip to Hyannis will be one to remember.  Have fun and happy traveling!
Directions: Veterans Beach Park & Kalmus Beach Park: from Rt. 28 heading east, take first exit at rotary for Barnstable Rd.  Follow Barnstable Rd. across Main St. where it becomes Ocean Street.  Hyannis Harbor is on the left at the lights.  Follow Ocean Street 1 mile, Veterans Beach is on the left; Kalmus Beach is at the end of Ocean Street on the curve.
JFK Museum & Cape Cod Baseball League Hall of Fame: from Rt. 28 heading east, take first exit at rotary for Barnstable Rd.  Follow Barnstable Rd. to Main St.  Turn right on Main Street, JFK Museum is only a few hundred feet up on the left.
Cape Cod Potato Chips Factory: from Rt. 28 heading east, take third exit for Rt. 132.  Turn right onto Independence Drive, turn right onto Breed’s Hill Road.
            JFK Museum Hyannis
            The Kennedy Compound
            Cape Cod Maritime Museum