In My Footsteps: Trip 89: Augusta, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 89:  Augusta, Maine

October 3, 2010

            Although it ranks as the third smallest state capital, population-wise, Augusta can hold its own with any other capital in the United States.  The area of Augusta was actually first explored by the Popham Colony.  They were English settlers who established the second colony in America only a few months after Jamestown, Virginia in 1607.  It was called by its Native American name of ‘Cushnoc’ until 1797 when it was incorporated as a part of Massachusetts as the town of Harrington.  Shortly thereafter it was renamed Augusta after Augusta Dearborn the daughter of noted American physician and Revolutionary War veteran Henry Dearborn.

Fort Western

            The first place I visited when I entered Augusta was the famed Fort Western.  Built in 1754 it is the oldest wooden fort in the country and remains relatively unchanged to this day; it is opened to the public during the summer months.  As interesting as the fort is there is more to the story of this place.  First of all two of the most infamous names in American history stayed here at one point.  In 1775 during their expedition to Quebec Benedict Arnold and Aaron Burr stayed at the garrison while building bateaux, a small flat bottomed boat.

            Aaron Burr of course was Vice President under Thomas Jefferson and is well known for his duel with Secretary of the Treasury Alexander Hamilton which resulted in Hamilton’s death in 1804.  Benedict Arnold’s name is even more infamous as the Revolutionary War general who plotted to surrender the fort at West Point to the British in 1780.  After being found out he defected to the British Army.  His name to this day is synonymous with betrayal.  It was for this reason that I found it very fitting that a stone plaque which mentions Arnold’s stay at Fort Western was covered with graffiti. 

Another Stone near the Benedict Arnold one marks the site of the Cushnoc Trading Post which was in use from 1628-1661.  This trading post was established by the Pilgrims of Plymouth County in order to trade with the local Abenaki tribe of Native Americans.  The site of where this trading post once stood is an historic landmark as well thanks to the discovery of the post’s remains in an archaeological dig from 1984 to 1987.

One of the buildings at the Kennebec Arsenal.

            There is a splendid river walk, The Augusta Greenway Trail, which connects to the Kennebec River Rail Trail and leads to Fort Western along the Kennebec River.  It is here that you begin to feel how small the state capital is as I don’t know of many others that could make you feel so isolated at times as I did walking along the Kennebec.  The state capitol building’s dome poking up from the trees across the river was a magnificent sight that I believe can only be seen in Augusta.  As isolated as I felt during this walk it actually added to the mystique and overall experience when I came upon the Kennebec Arsenal.

            Comprised of eight granite buildings the Kennebec Arsenal is the most intact early 19^th century munitions depot in the country.  It was built between 1828 and 1838 and was built strategically on a hill with a fabulous view of the Kennebec River.  Though they are the most intact munitions depot buildings the Kennebec Arsenal looks every bit of its age.  I am not sure if it is natural aging and weathering or if it is vandalism but some of the granite buildings look like scenes from horror films.  Some of the buildings were partially obscured by small trees and shrub overgrowth while others were tucked behind chain link fence.  Personally I think it made it more of an experience for me since for the most part it was just myself and the eight buildings.  From the hillside I could see the state capitol building still; this was where I would end my trip to Augusta.

The State House seen from Capitol Park.

            Visiting a state capitol on a Sunday means that there is very little in the way of traffic in and around the buildings.  Before I took a stroll around the impressive capitol building I decided to get acquainted with it from afar.  The thirty-four acre Capitol Park, directly across the street from the capitol building, gives you a view that I was in awe of.  The trees are planted in such a way that there is a straight clearing from the park all the way up the steps of the capitol.  Words cannot describe it, a photo will do a little better job.

            After seeing it from this angle I decided to make a closer inspection of the Maine State Capitol.  Portland was actually the original state capitol of Maine, but it was moved to Augusta in 1832 because of its central location.  The building opened in 1832 and has the look of the United States Capitol in Washington D.C. with the domed roof and the many Romanesque columns. 

The Blaine House aka Governor's Mansion

            I was able to move rather freely around the grounds which gave me great perspectives.  To the left of the State Capitol is a modern three-story building which houses the state’s library, museum, and archives.  Behind the Capitol is the Burton Cross building which houses the Maine State Offices.  Cross was governor of Maine twice, from 1952 to 1955 save for one day due to the fact that his Senate term had ended 25 hours before his term as governor began.  It is a bit complicated for me to explain.

            Across Capitol Street sits the Executive Mansion, also known as the Blaine House.  The home of Maine’s governors the house was given to the state by Harriet Blaine Beale in 1919.  The house dates back to 1833 and the first governor to live in the mansion was Carl E. Miliken in 1920. 

            I was lucky enough to visit Augusta on a Sunday, making it very easy to get around.  This should not stop any visitor from coming here to see one of the smallest, yet most beautiful state capitols in the country.  The small town feel makes it more special, some state capitols feel out of reach due to their size, but Augusta is all right there for you to experience.  Make the time to see Fort Western and the Augusta Greenway Trail, and then check out Capitol Park and the spectacular view of the State House.  Have fun and happy traveling! 

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, and Amazon.com, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

     

Directions:  Fort Western:  On I-95 headed north take exit 109A, merge right onto Rt. 202.  At rotary take 3^rd exit to stay on Rt. 202.  At the next rotary take 4^th exit for Cony St., Fort is on left.

            Maine State House:  On I-95 headed north take exit 109A, merge right onto Rt. 202.  At rotary take 2^nd exit for State Street.  Capitol Park is across from State House with parking on the street.

References:  Capital Walks - The Augusta Greenway Trail

            Blaine House.org

            The Museum in the Streets - Augusta, ME

            Maine.gov

In My Footsteps: Trip 88: Gardiner, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 88:  Gardiner, Maine

October 3, 2010

            A beautifully classic small town, Gardiner is rich in history that spans across New England.  This is due to the man for whom the town is named, the 16^th century physician and land developer of Maine Dr. Silvester Gardiner.  Born in South Kingstown, Rhode Island, Dr. Gardiner studied medicine in New York City before opening a practice in Boston.  He made his fortune importing drugs for distribution and sale.  Dr. Gardiner also heavily promoted inoculation in regards to small pox; he also established a hospital for the treatment of small pox in 1761.  The good doctor founded what is currently Gardiner under the name Gardinerstown Plantation in 1754.

E.A. Robinson House

            I headed into Gardiner on a Sunday morning which ended up being a perfect time.  With much of the small town’s inhabitants at church the roads were virtually deserted and I was allowed to take my time as I drove through to enjoy the beautiful sun, scenery, and foliage.  The route I took through the town was dictated by a series of historic homes located all over.

            The first such home I stopped at was the home of American poet and three-time Pulitzer Prize winner Edwin Arlington Robinson.  His family had wanted a girl when he was born and thus Robinson was not named until he was six months old.  His middle name comes from the fact that a man from Arlington, Massachusetts was asked to draw the baby’s first name from a hat.  I found this to be fascinating and a little bit sad.  Robinson’s poetry was so beloved by Kermit Roosevelt, son of President Theodore Roosevelt, that the President secured him a job at the New York Customs Office which he held during Roosevelt’s tenure in office.

Christ Episcopal Church

The home, on Lincoln Avenue, is set back a bit from the road and slightly elevated.  It was an impressive sight with the yard filled with downed leaves, a classic autumn scene.  I enjoyed the fact that these historic homes sit rather unsuspecting in normal rural neighborhoods.  The same can be said for the home of another poet and Pulitzer Prize winner, Laura E. Richards, located on Dennis Street.  Her best known work is a children’s poem entitled ‘Eletelephony’ which needs to be read to be appreciated.  Ironically the sign on the white picket fence in front of the home labels it as the ‘Yellow House,’ built in 1814.  While the house is indeed that very color I thought maybe there would have been a sign alerting passers-by that a famous poet had lived there.  Or, perhaps there was and I simply missed it?

The town common in Gardiner was actually the place where I found much of the town’s people.  Bordered by Dresden Avenue and School Street the common is a beautiful spot matching the rest of the town.  In the northeast corner of the common is a really nice marble drinking fountain.  Inscribed on the front is a message alerting you that the fountain was erected by Ellen Stinson in 1906.  Who is Ellen Stinson?  I am not sure but for the fact that she is the wife of someone important to Gardiner since the inscription says ‘Erected by his wife,’ on it.  I have been researching to find out who the Mr. Stinson is but to no avail yet.

Gardiner Public Library c. 1881

Directly across the street from this mysterious drinking fountain is the Christ Episcopal Church which is the oldest continuously running Episcopal Church in Maine.  It was originally known as St. Ann’s when it was built in 1771.  The name was changed to Christ Church in 1820 and the steeple’s bell was cast by famous American patriot Paul Revere.  When I arrived at the common and saw the church in the distance it had a remarkable presence that told me it was important to Gardiner’s history.  

Before the people exited church I headed down to Water Street, the main street of Gardiner.  It was basically barren of traffic which allowed me to get a lot of great photos of the shops, foliage, and wide shots of the empty street.  I parked across from the Gardiner Public Library which had several impressive views.  The front of the brick building, built in 1881, was a beautiful color and was bordered on the left by a tree with bright yellow leaves.

There is an iron gate to the left which houses the Peg Shaw Memorial Garden.  Although my visit coincided with the time when the leaves had fallen and flowers were no longer in peak bloom it was still a nice setup.  The back edge of the garden is a small side building of the library that acts as a wall.  There is a nice armillary sphere to the left of the door of the small building, it has been quite weathered but that adds to its charm.

Gardiner's beautiful Water Street

I walked north on Water Street from there and saw more of the ‘Blocks’ which I have described in my Brockton and Manchester articles for example.  They are the hundred year old buildings with the rectangular granite squares near the top containing a name, most likely of the person responsible for paying for it.  There were a mass of pumpkins for sale in front of Reny’s Department Store; this combined with the pots of colorful flowers in front of most stores made a walk on the brick sidewalks of Water Street a slice of heaven.

I finished up with a walk down where the waterfront along the Kennebec River is being restored to attract locals and visitors alike down to the area.  There are some railroad tracks and the Kennebec River Rail Trail which run along the river.  The bike path is probably the better suggestion for seeing the sites of the town and neighboring Farmingdale.  Underneath the bridge which crosses the Kennebec there is some adorable art from local schools, this will no doubt make you smile.

Gardiner in the fall is everything that you could want in a classic small Maine town.  From being able to drive through all of the quaint neighborhoods searching for historic homes to walking the Gardiner common, to exploring the shops and restaurants on Water Street, there will be a fun day in store for any visitor who comes here.  Definitely make Gardiner a stop during your time in Maine.  Have fun and happy traveling!

     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Gardiner Town Common:  From I-95 take Exit 102, turn left at Rt. 126, take a slight left at Central Street, slight left at Water Street.  Take a sharp right at Church Street, take 3^rd left onto Dresden Avenue, the common will be on the left.

            Kennebec River Rail Trail:  From I-95 take Exit 102, turn left at Rt. 126, take a slight left at Central Street, slight left at Water Street.  Turn left at Bridge Street, turn right at Maine Avenue, parking lot for bike path is on right at Hannaford’s.

            Public Library/Peg Shaw Garden:  From I-95 take Exit 102, turn left at Rt. 126, take a slight left at Central Street, slight left at Water Street.  Follow Water Street, library and garden are on right, #155.

References:  Gardiner, ME - Official Town Site

            Kennebec Historical Society

            'Eletelephony' Poem by Laura E. Richards - ReelyRedd.com