In My Footsteps: Trip 103: Groton, Connecticut

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 103:  Groton, Connecticut

January 6, 2011

The Groton Monument at Fort Griswold.

            My first journey into Connecticut also coincided with the one-year anniversary of my very first travel trip.  I decided to hit the mid-coast area of Connecticut and ended up being blown away by what I saw in Groton.  Located on the Thames River this city had a lot of things that I look for when choosing places to visit; specifically an amazing lighthouse and an historic earthen fort.  That alone would make Groton a must see, but there was so much more.

            Groton is home to the pharmaceutical company Pfizer as well as a campus of the University of Connecticut.  Established in 1705 it has one of the largest collections of historic sites and monuments in the state which makes it very popular with travelers.  My experience in Groton began with a bang and never let up.

            The first spot I visited was Fort Griswold.  Now a state park the fort was in use during the American Revolution and was attacked during the Battle of Groton Heights by troops led by turncoat Benedict Arnold.  As soon as you get close to the grounds your eyes immediately are drawn about 135 feet up into the sky; this is due to the impressive sight that is the Groton Monument.  Built in 1830 the monument, an obelisk which brought to mind the Bunker Hill Monument in Boston, was dedicated to all of the soldiers who died during the Battle of Groton Heights in 1781.

The rolling hill of Fort Griswold.

            When I passed through the iron gates and onto the grounds of the fort I felt like I was passing into a different time.  Right away there is a stone marker depicting where Col. William Ledyard was killed by his own sword by a British soldier after surrendering the fort.  This was the beginning of the massacre at Fort Griswold.

            I was all alone during my time here and that only added to the aura of this historic spot.  There is a short tunnel through a hill called the ‘Covered Way’ that shielded soldiers as they passed from the fort to the lower battery closer to the Thames River.  I walked through it and could imagine the sounds of gunfire from nearly 250 years ago.  The view down a cascading hill to the edge of the fort’s walls was incredible.  I did not realize how long of a walk it was until I got face to face with a pair of buildings at the bottom that were much larger than I had originally thought. 

The rainbow cloud at Eastern Point Beach.

            After taking in the sights of the river below the walls I walked over to the red Ebenezer Avery House which was where the wounded soldiers were taken during the massacre at Fort Griswold.  The house which was built in 1750 was a fitting end to my time at this unbelievable piece of American history.  However this was just the start of what I saw in Groton.

            A short drive from the fort along the Thames River sits the small Eastern Point Beach.  Obviously it gets its name due to the fact that it is the eastern most point in the town.  There is a unique home which was built on the rocks a couple of hundred feet off shore.  There is a private dock since boats are the only way to get out to the home.  That was not the only unique sight at Eastern Point Beach.

Tyler House c.1904

            Hovering magically above New London Harbor Lighthouse across the river was a rainbow cloud.  It was the first time I had ever seen such a thing.  I read that these phenomena occur when it is so cold that there are ice crystals inside a cloud rather than liquid moisture.  I can vouch that it was absolutely freezing on this day, possibly my coldest trip yet. 

            Besides the house on the rocks and the icy cloud rainbow there was a large house used for restrooms, changing, etc.  The Tyler House as it is known was built in 1904 and is made of wood and stone standing ever so close to the water’s edge.  I was able to get some really nice shots of the back of the building by standing on a rock outcropping.  It was very safe for anybody unlike some of the places I shoot from.

            It was also from this vantage point that I was able to see my final destination during my time in Groton:  Avery Point Lighthouse.  Located on the Avery Point Campus of the University of Connecticut this lighthouse has a very distinct look now but it took a lot of work to make it so.  Avery Point is named for James Avery who was one of the first settlers of New London from which Groton came later.

Avery Point Lighthouse

            Avery Point Light was the final lighthouse to be built in Connecticut completed in early 1943.  After falling into severe disrepair a massive restoration project was undertaken in 2000 to bring Avery Point Light back to its previous luster.  Six years and a half a million dollars later the project was finished and the lighthouse looks amazing now.

            In comparison to most other lighthouse which are conical and white Avery Point Light is a brick octagon.  Also it has more of a light red, slightly pink color to it that when combined with its unique roof make it look either like a candle or a part of a doll house castle.  I was blown away by the appearance and the colors of it especially due to the fact that I arrived as the sun had begun to set.  You have to maneuver your way through a bit of a maze on the UConn campus to find it but this lighthouse is near the top of my list of favorites I have seen thus far.

            My first trip of the new year, and first into Connecticut was hugely successful.  This was all thanks to the simply awesome places I saw in Groton.  There is so much more that you will find there but I shared a few of my personal favorites.  Take your time and find your own favorites, it will not be hard.  Have fun and happy traveling!

              My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!  For more In My Footsteps items follow my In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Fort Griswold:  From I-95 take Exit 87 to merge onto Rt. 349.  Turn right at Meridian St. Exd., slight right at Meridian St., follow ½ mile, turn left at Monument St.  Fort is on left. 

            Avery Point Light:  From I-95 take Exit 87 to merge onto Rt. 349.  Follow 2 miles, turn right at Rainville Ave., turn left at Eastern Point Rd., turn right to stay on Eastern Point Rd., continue onto Shennecossett Rd.  UConn is on right, lighthouse is on the water’s edge you must park and walk.

References:  Avery Memorial Association - Ebenezer Avery House

            Avery Point Light.com

            Fort Griswold.org

In My Footsteps: Trip 89: Augusta, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 89:  Augusta, Maine

October 3, 2010

            Although it ranks as the third smallest state capital, population-wise, Augusta can hold its own with any other capital in the United States.  The area of Augusta was actually first explored by the Popham Colony.  They were English settlers who established the second colony in America only a few months after Jamestown, Virginia in 1607.  It was called by its Native American name of ‘Cushnoc’ until 1797 when it was incorporated as a part of Massachusetts as the town of Harrington.  Shortly thereafter it was renamed Augusta after Augusta Dearborn the daughter of noted American physician and Revolutionary War veteran Henry Dearborn.

Fort Western

            The first place I visited when I entered Augusta was the famed Fort Western.  Built in 1754 it is the oldest wooden fort in the country and remains relatively unchanged to this day; it is opened to the public during the summer months.  As interesting as the fort is there is more to the story of this place.  First of all two of the most infamous names in American history stayed here at one point.  In 1775 during their expedition to Quebec Benedict Arnold and Aaron Burr stayed at the garrison while building bateaux, a small flat bottomed boat.

            Aaron Burr of course was Vice President under Thomas Jefferson and is well known for his duel with Secretary of the Treasury Alexander Hamilton which resulted in Hamilton’s death in 1804.  Benedict Arnold’s name is even more infamous as the Revolutionary War general who plotted to surrender the fort at West Point to the British in 1780.  After being found out he defected to the British Army.  His name to this day is synonymous with betrayal.  It was for this reason that I found it very fitting that a stone plaque which mentions Arnold’s stay at Fort Western was covered with graffiti. 

Another Stone near the Benedict Arnold one marks the site of the Cushnoc Trading Post which was in use from 1628-1661.  This trading post was established by the Pilgrims of Plymouth County in order to trade with the local Abenaki tribe of Native Americans.  The site of where this trading post once stood is an historic landmark as well thanks to the discovery of the post’s remains in an archaeological dig from 1984 to 1987.

One of the buildings at the Kennebec Arsenal.

            There is a splendid river walk, The Augusta Greenway Trail, which connects to the Kennebec River Rail Trail and leads to Fort Western along the Kennebec River.  It is here that you begin to feel how small the state capital is as I don’t know of many others that could make you feel so isolated at times as I did walking along the Kennebec.  The state capitol building’s dome poking up from the trees across the river was a magnificent sight that I believe can only be seen in Augusta.  As isolated as I felt during this walk it actually added to the mystique and overall experience when I came upon the Kennebec Arsenal.

            Comprised of eight granite buildings the Kennebec Arsenal is the most intact early 19^th century munitions depot in the country.  It was built between 1828 and 1838 and was built strategically on a hill with a fabulous view of the Kennebec River.  Though they are the most intact munitions depot buildings the Kennebec Arsenal looks every bit of its age.  I am not sure if it is natural aging and weathering or if it is vandalism but some of the granite buildings look like scenes from horror films.  Some of the buildings were partially obscured by small trees and shrub overgrowth while others were tucked behind chain link fence.  Personally I think it made it more of an experience for me since for the most part it was just myself and the eight buildings.  From the hillside I could see the state capitol building still; this was where I would end my trip to Augusta.

The State House seen from Capitol Park.

            Visiting a state capitol on a Sunday means that there is very little in the way of traffic in and around the buildings.  Before I took a stroll around the impressive capitol building I decided to get acquainted with it from afar.  The thirty-four acre Capitol Park, directly across the street from the capitol building, gives you a view that I was in awe of.  The trees are planted in such a way that there is a straight clearing from the park all the way up the steps of the capitol.  Words cannot describe it, a photo will do a little better job.

            After seeing it from this angle I decided to make a closer inspection of the Maine State Capitol.  Portland was actually the original state capitol of Maine, but it was moved to Augusta in 1832 because of its central location.  The building opened in 1832 and has the look of the United States Capitol in Washington D.C. with the domed roof and the many Romanesque columns. 

The Blaine House aka Governor's Mansion

            I was able to move rather freely around the grounds which gave me great perspectives.  To the left of the State Capitol is a modern three-story building which houses the state’s library, museum, and archives.  Behind the Capitol is the Burton Cross building which houses the Maine State Offices.  Cross was governor of Maine twice, from 1952 to 1955 save for one day due to the fact that his Senate term had ended 25 hours before his term as governor began.  It is a bit complicated for me to explain.

            Across Capitol Street sits the Executive Mansion, also known as the Blaine House.  The home of Maine’s governors the house was given to the state by Harriet Blaine Beale in 1919.  The house dates back to 1833 and the first governor to live in the mansion was Carl E. Miliken in 1920. 

            I was lucky enough to visit Augusta on a Sunday, making it very easy to get around.  This should not stop any visitor from coming here to see one of the smallest, yet most beautiful state capitols in the country.  The small town feel makes it more special, some state capitols feel out of reach due to their size, but Augusta is all right there for you to experience.  Make the time to see Fort Western and the Augusta Greenway Trail, and then check out Capitol Park and the spectacular view of the State House.  Have fun and happy traveling! 

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, and Amazon.com, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

     

Directions:  Fort Western:  On I-95 headed north take exit 109A, merge right onto Rt. 202.  At rotary take 3^rd exit to stay on Rt. 202.  At the next rotary take 4^th exit for Cony St., Fort is on left.

            Maine State House:  On I-95 headed north take exit 109A, merge right onto Rt. 202.  At rotary take 2^nd exit for State Street.  Capitol Park is across from State House with parking on the street.

References:  Capital Walks - The Augusta Greenway Trail

            Blaine House.org

            The Museum in the Streets - Augusta, ME

            Maine.gov

In My Footsteps: Trip 37: Newport, RI

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 37: Newport, RI

March 25, 2010



     My visit to the amazing town of Newport will take two articles as there is so much more to see than simply the beautiful mansions. That said, the mansions themselves will be the focus of the second article; this one deals with the entirety of Newport. This article is proof that Newport stands out as one of the greatest attractions in the country.

Newport is part of Aquidneck Island which is the largest island in the state of Rhode Island. The town was formed in 1639 when eight men left nearby Portsmouth due to fallout with pioneer settler Anne Hutchinson. As part of the agreement the defectors received control of the southern part of the island which became Newport.

It became clear to me just how rich in history Newport is as soon as I took the turn from Broadway onto Washington Square. It was as if everywhere I looked there was a piece of history staring back at me. It is actually not far from the truth. There is a 250-acre section of the center of Newport that is designated as a National Historic Landmark due to its collection of pristine colonial-era homes and buildings.

I found a lot to park in and began walking. In the middle of Washington Square sits Eisenhower Park a nice shady spot near the Old Colony House(above), or Old State House. Built in 1741 it is one of the best kept public buildings from the Colonial-era. George Washington and Dwight Eisenhower have been guests there and it now acts as a museum and part of the larger National Historic Landmark that the center of Newport is. In the midst of Eisenhower Park stands a statue of Oliver Perry, a hero during the War of 1812 who led a decisive American Naval victory over the British at Lake Erie.

After enjoying the sites in and around Washington Square for a bit I began to tour the nearby streets. Each and every home it seemed had a plaque with a name and year adorning it; never before have I seen so many historical homes, one after another. I was amazed by the Wanton-Lyman-Hazard House(left) sitting just off of Washington Square on the corner of Broadway and Stone Street. It amazed me because of the fact that it was built in 1697 making it the oldest surviving house in Newport and one of the oldest in the entire state of Rhode Island. So old is this house that it was damaged during the riots after the imposing of the Stamp Act of 1765 which was a result of yet another unfair British tax on the colonies. It is open for tours during June, July, and August and is a fascinating spot even if just passing by it.

The influx of wealthy people into Newport in the late-19th and early-20th centuries is not exclusive to the mansion area of Bellevue Avenue. Another example in the center of Newport is Vanderbilt Hall which is a mansion and hotel built in 1909 by Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt and dedicated to his father, Cornelius Vanderbilt. The Vanderbilt family came to prominence during the mid-1800’s when Cornelius oversaw the building of railroad and shipping empires. Cornelius Vanderbilt, when his fortune is adjusted for inflation into current times, had a net worth of somewhere between $143-178 billion. His mansion, The Breakers, will be covered in the second Newport article.

After walking along Clarke Street and Spring Street the next destination was a much simpler spot: Touro Park. The park sits between Pelham and Mill Street and is known for a spectacular piece of architecture known as the Old Stone Mill(right). Built in 1660, and similar in appearance to Dennis, Massachusetts’ Scargo Tower, this landmark’s exact historic lineage is unknown. Two popular theories have it either being built by the grandfather of the nefarious Revolutionary War traitor, Benedict Arnold, or that it was built by early Viking visitors. However, an archaeological investigation in 1948-49 could not date any of the artifacts it studied earlier than the 17th Century. Origin aside this
structure is a stand alone site, the oldest building in Newport and pretty much a one of a kind.

The final place I visited in Newport was Fort Adams. Located across Newport Harbor with a breathtaking view of the Newport Bridge and Rose Island Lighthouse, Fort Adams(below) is still open to the public and the entire area is a State Park.

Originally built in the 1820’s this is the largest coastal fort in the United States. It has spectacular views from every side; it was magnified when I was there near sunset. It actually became a little spooky looking in through the gates that covered each entrance as the light became dim.

The Fort Adams State Park sits on land that was at one time owned by William Brenton who was governor of the Rhode Island colony from 1666-69. He called the land Hammersmith after the town in England where his family came from. In the warmer months the open grassy areas host the Newport Jazz Festival and Folk Festival. It was a great way to end a great trip to an amazing town. Newport is much more than just the storied mansions, it is rows and rows of historical homes. It is also a mysterious stone mill and a beautiful if not spooky old fort. When you have seen all of the mansions in Newport make time to view these other attractions, it adds another dimension to any Newport trip. Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Touro Park: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Slight left at Spring Street, turn left onto Mill St. Park is on the right.

Fort Adams State Park: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Left at Thames Street, left at America’s Cup Ave. Right onto Thames Street, right onto Wellington Ave., right at Harrison Ave., turn left to stay on Harrison, turn right to stay on Harrison. Turn right at Ft. Adams Dr., follow it to fort parking lot.

Historical Center of Town/Washington Square: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Continue onto Washington Square, there is street parking and off-street lots. Historic homes and buildings are in all directions.

References: Go Newport.com

            Newport Historical Society

            Fort Adams.org

            Newport Restoration.org

Newport on Dwellable