Thank You, Jack

     Jack Connors doesn’t need me to eulogize him. His passing made headlines in the local newspapers and nightly news. At the end of this, I will link to his obituary for those who might have no idea who he is.
     In short, he was a legend in Boston-based advertising and a dominating force in philanthropy for decades. Money, fame, respect, he had it all. So no, Jack doesn’t need me to eulogize him. So I’m not going to.
     Instead what I am going to do is tell a little story about the Jack Connors that I knew and that I owed so much to.
     My first introduction to Jack occurred in 2006. He had a summer home near the Marshside Restaurant where I had worked in Dennis on Cape Cod for years. Jack was a frequent patron of our rustic but beloved establishment. It was a homey place with delicious food that ran the gamut from pancakes and lobster rolls to prime rib and turkey clubs. We had a staff that was more like family, many of us working together for ten or more years.

Closing time at the original Marshside

     I describe the Marshside in this way not just because it’s how I feel, but because it’s how Jack felt. This came into play when the opportunity came for him to buy the restaurant.
     Now, I was not privy to why Marylou who had owned it for decades was selling. I knew our building needed a good amount of work. We sometimes skated by on inspections due to people knowing people. And don’t get me started about our barn across the parking lot which doubled as a prep room and food storage area. That being said the restaurant was always immaculately clean and we all took great pains to keep things that way on the inside even if the outside looked like it might fall over.
     Whatever her reason was Marylou and Jack made a deal in 2007. He would buy the Marshside and be essentially a silent owner while Marylou continued to run the day-to-day operations. Whether it had been dire straits for the business or not it would continue on thanks to Jack.
     This is where the true measure of who Jack was as a person became apparent to us who worked there.
     The staff was told by Marylou of the plans. The Marshside was being sold to Jack with her staying on in basically a General Manager role. We would close at the end of August. After that, the rustic clam shack was to be torn down with a new more modern restaurant arising in its place in time for the following summer.

Some of the crew from those final days of the original Marshside

     We made plans for a big final shindig at the old Marsh. Everything must go. We closed that night for service and then ate, drank, were merry, and took nearly everything that wasn’t nailed down. I still have counter chairs and glass fish plates kids used to this day. We also took food and of course booze(open bottles only). I mean hey it was going to be thrown away right? I only took a bottle of Jack Daniels.
     The next week all that was left of the Marshside was a hole in the ground. Even the barn that had served as our prep room and food storage area was torn down.
     But what of us? What of the loyal staff?
     Before we left on the day that Marylou had first announced the sale of the restaurant she asked me, and several others if we planned on coming back when the new place opened. I said yes. That is when my mind was blown.
     She told me that the plan was for Jack to pay me, full-time, for the entire time the restaurant was being rebuilt. I was to be paid to stay at home. Out of sheer kindness and respect this man who didn’t know us really, or owe us anything, was going to spend likely what amounted to easily over six figures to keep us on for when the new Marshside opened.

Standing in the hole where the Marshside once stood

     He didn’t have to do that. Jack could have easily let us all go and brought in his own staff. He surely knew some heavy hitters in the Boston restaurant scene that could have helped launch his new venture. But no, he lived up to his word.
     I was paid a 40-hour salary for what ended up being nine months. Nine. Months.
     This allowed me the opportunity to write several books and spend countless afternoons at the Cape Cod Community College library. This was thanks to Jack.
     Now, don’t get me wrong, as much as I knew it would end I had days where I wished I could just live the life of a writer getting paid and hanging out in the library. When the time came to reopen in June I was there.
     I vividly remember sitting in the sparkling new restaurant with the rest of the crew. Jack held court and gave us the rundown of what was to happen from that moment on. He also explained why he undertook this endeavor.
     In what I would come to really appreciate Jack gave a very dry humorous explanation. He said he was looking for new ways to lose money. We had no idea at the time that it had already cost him several million dollars to go from a clam shack to a modern casual dining establishment. Sure it hardly made a dent in his overall wealth, but that’s a large chunk of change.
     I cannot say for sure but I believe it took at least a few years for the restaurant to turn a profit for Jack.

     We on the staff definitely earned some of the money Jack had paid during the time off during those first weeks of reopening. I know that I worked 110 hours in that first week alone. That’s no typo, and that was a lot of overtime. Roughly 8am to 11pm, give or take, every day. Still, we did it because it was our form of payback for Jack’s confidence in us.
     Then came a hard left turn. In the spring of 2010 Marylou, our leader, our guiding light, and one of the hardest-working people I’ve ever known, suddenly passed away. This took Jack from a silent owner to having to be right on the front lines. There is no way it was what he wanted or expected, but he did it out of respect for Marylou.

Before opening at the new Marshside

     The 2010 season was tough, but we all banded together and made it through for Marylou. After that though, after the care and respect that Jack showed us. After he continued the Marshside when he could have easily said ‘This isn’t working for me,’ and sold it or closed it. I can only speak for myself but I know I stayed to return the favor of respect to Jack.
     Despite being worth a staggering amount of money. Despite being known and respected throughout the country. Despite having the option to be the stereotypical ‘rich man’ Jack went the opposite way. He would come into the restaurant through the kitchen like the staff, making a point to shake hands or hug everyone he crossed paths with.
     Jack would make you feel important when he had no obligation to. He did it because he was a decent human. He wasn’t born rich and I think that helped him remember that we all are humans doing the best we can to navigate through life.
     I ended up staying working in the kitchen at the Marshside for much longer than I intended to. This boiled down to two things. One was my true and honest feelings that those I worked with, especially those I worked with for many years, were family and I owed it to them. The second thing was the gratitude to Jack.
     I don’t know if the Marshside needed saving when he bought it. If it did or didn’t the bottom line is that it is still going strong today because of the work and the money he put into it. His legacy is so far beyond rebuilding the Marshside, but to me, that is his defining achievement because it affected me personally.

     I kept my job because of Jack. I was paid, full-time, to sit at home for nine months because of Jack. I learned that wealth doesn’t have to make you a cold and uncaring person because of Jack. I called him Mr. Connors the first time I met him but he softly insisted I call him Jack.
     I was honestly surprised at how much hearing that he had died hit me, but I shouldn’t have been. Just how he approached us in the days after Marylou’s death earned him all of the loyalty and respect I could offer.
     There are so many who knew Jack far better than me. He had a wonderful family, at least who I met, and my heart goes out to them, especially his wife Eileen. Like I said at the top, Jack Connors doesn’t need me to eulogize him, and his family doesn’t need me to either. That being said it can’t hurt for them to hear how Jack positively affected me, and I’m just some random line cook who happened to work at his happiest ‘money loser’ that he had.
     I will end this off by simply saying thank you Jack for everything. You lived a great and important life sir, rest in peace.

c. Camp Harbor View.org

Jack Connors Obituary

The Long Road of Yarmouth's Bass River (Smuggler's) Beach

 

Today much of the coasts of the United States are a mix of public and private beaches. The rich own strips of sand in front of their property while cities and towns purchase plots of land for the average everyday people to use.

The coastlines were not created as public or private. Many steps go into creating a public beach. Things like legal ownership, planning, regulations, zoning, and meetings are parts of what takes an area from an inconspicuous stretch of sand to a beach packed with people in summertime.

Though no two are exactly the same one example of land going from private to public resides on Cape Cod. At the mouth of Bass River, a waterway running in between the towns of Yarmouth and Dennis, there are popular beaches on both sides.

They both went from private to public. On the Dennis(east) side of Bass River sits Davis Beach. Known more commonly as West Dennis Beach this stretch of sand nearly a mile and a half in length was owned for decades by Charles Henry Davis. He had deep connections to Cape Cod including the creation of America’s first traffic circle at the meeting of River and Pleasant Streets in the Bass River section of South Yarmouth.

America's first traffic circle in South Yarmouth.

Davis at one point it was said could walk from Nantucket Sound on the south coast of Cape Cod all the way to Cape Cod Bay on the north side and never leave the property he owned. This included all of what is today West Dennis Beach. The acquisition of this pristine set of sand was simple and straightforward. Davis sold the property to the Town of Dennis shortly before he died in 1951 for the cool sum of $50,000($589,900 in 2024).

West Dennis Beach has a story that is for all intents and purposes simple and clear-cut. Across Bass River in Yarmouth, the beach has a slightly more complex story. It includes bootlegging, giant resort hotels, and more transfers of ownership than one might expect.

Present-day Bass River Beach began as the property of Joseph P. Phelan. Born in Ireland in 1888 Phelan came to America and settled in Fall River, Massachusetts. He was a successful businessman making significant money with his popular Cape Cod Shirt Company that he established in 1926.

Phelan purchased a triangular-shaped plot of land on the western side of the mouth of Bass River in an area known as The Point from Edward Gleason in April 1926. There he had a summer home constructed. In total, it was ten rooms including five bedrooms along with a wooden pier that stretched out into the ocean. The family’s arrival at the beginning of the summer was headline news in the local newspapers. When they weren’t at the home it was rented out with those renters also making the local news.

The beach at The Point grew substantially in size when in the early 1950s efforts were made to dredge Bass River. The spoils were piled onto either side of the mouth of the river.

For a few years, the piles of dredged sediment sat there. They were used as picnic areas, or for kids to play on. Eventually, Yarmouth used their spoils to fill in the marshland abutting the Phelan property. This also served to fill in the creek leading from nearby Run Pond to Nantucket Sound which was a bone of contention with some locals. In total, the Phelan property was thirteen acres of waterfront land.

During the early 1950’s the Town of Yarmouth had begun buying up beachfront property to be designated for public use. This included buying present-day Sea Gull Beach in 1951 for $25,000($300,000 in 2024), as well as the far smaller Englewood Beach for $9,000($106,000 in 2024) in 1952. As the Phelan property was only in use for a few months of the year rumblings began locally about the town buying that as well.

Bass River looking south toward the former Phelan property

In 1958 Joseph Phelan offered to sell the coveted property to the town for $150,000($1.62 million in 2024). Despite there being support for a new public beach the offer was deemed too high and the town passed. Talks of taking the property by eminent domain were voted down at the time. This left Harwich Port real estate broker John J. Taylor to swoop in and buy the land in September 1959 from Phelan for a far more affordable price of $80,000($858,600 in 2024).

The Town of Yarmouth had balked at the high price of the Phelan property. However when confronted with Taylor’s proposal for what to do with the land the town had wished they’d paid the price.

The plan was to subdivide part of the land for houses and leave a large tract of it to be used for a three-story, 180-room, waterfront resort hotel. This was rejected by the town which left the property in limbo.

Besieged with hurdles and roadblocks surrounding the thirteen acres of waterfront property Taylor sold the land to Sidney Tucker and Paul Lampros in August 1961 for $140,000($1.46 million in 2024). Only a few months later in March 1962 the Town of Yarmouth stepped in and took 10.5 of the thirteen acres of land by eminent domain. The Phelan summer home and a few lots of land surrounding it were left private. Tucker and Lampros sued the town in September 1962, arguing the land's value.

The proceedings dragged on in court until May 1964. However, once the jury got the case it took a mere twenty-eight minutes to award Tucker and Lampros a whopping $270,000($2.76 million in 2024) for the former Phelan property. This meant that essentially the Town of Yarmouth had paid nearly double the original asking price Joseph Phelan had offered which was seen as exorbitant.

Despite the long road and extra money paid, Yarmouth had its newest public beach. To cover the cost of the new beach as well as the new parking lot needed the town ultimately decided to start charging for parking during the tourist season. This was the start of buying beach stickers in Yarmouth.

Next up was the important task of naming the stretch of sand. In the local newspapers, it had been referred to as Phelan Beach since it was first offered for purchase in 1958. The name chosen was the on-the-nose name of Bass River Beach. However, locals rarely call it by that name.

In the six decades since Phelan Beach became Bass River Beach the area at the mouth of the river has been known more frequently as Smuggler’s Beach. But why? It is due to the stories of rum-running or bootlegging that took place in the area during Prohibition.

Did bootlegging take place at Smuggler's Beach?

The Smuggler’s Beach name becomes even more appropriate when coupled with the story of the Casa Madrid establishment. Located a few hundred yards from the beach on Run Pond Road the Casa Madrid opened in 1933 as a dancing and eating establishment. Only six weeks into its existence though it was raided by law enforcement and exposed as a speakeasy.

Did the liquor seized from Casa Madrid come from the nearby beach? One cannot say for sure, but the legend of Smuggler’s Beach draws heavily on that possibility.

From a summer home abutted by marshland to a hugely popular public beach the area formerly known as The Point in Yarmouth has taken a long road to get to where it is in the present day. It is an interesting dichotomy between the straightforward route of Charles Henry Davis’ property becoming West Dennis Beach and Joseph Phelan’s property becoming Bass River Smuggler’s Beach.

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Christine's Restaurant & Showroom, West Dennis

 

    It was a can’t-miss spot, both literally and figuratively. Located on the big curve of Route 28 in West Dennis, Christine’s set the bar high when it came to entertainment. Some famous names graced the stage in the twenty-five years this landmark was in existence. The three-hundred-seat Christine’s packed people in on a nightly basis.

    It began in 1980, when Joe Jamiel, straight out of college, purchased the property and originally called it Celebrities. It was a young rock-and-roll bar back when the drinking age on Cape Cod was still eighteen. When the drinking age was raised, Jamiel decided to change with the times. The hopping nightclub atmosphere of Celebrities was replaced with a function room for private parties, banquets and family-style meals. The only thing left was choosing the new name. Jamiel named the venue Christine’s after his wife, and the new establishment opened in 1983.

    Despite the changes, this spot did not lose its appeal; in fact, it gained even more. The young rock-and-roll bar began incorporating all sorts of musical tastes to increase its audience. Monday was jazz night, and many legendary local musicians played there weekly. Tuesdays were reserved for standup comedy, including a young Jay Leno, who plied his trade on stage there before later becoming host of the Tonight Show for many years.

A 1987 Ad for Christine's(Yarmouth Register) 

    Shows started between 9:00 and 9:30 p.m. and never ceased to amaze and enthrall customers. Jamiel credits having really good agents for helping him book many talented acts. Christine’s was seen as the little stepchild of the Melody Tent, a popular music venue that opened in Hyannis in 1950 and is still running strong as of 2016. This was due in part to the fact that several acts would play the Tent and then Christine’s, or vice-versa.

    It was a family-run restaurant, with Joe Jamiel booking the entertainment, his brother Geoffrey working as the chef and his wife, Christine, running the front of the house. His kids ran and played throughout the restaurant, adding to the true family atmosphere that they wanted to display.

    Though it was known for tremendous entertainment, Christine’s could hold its own with cuisine as well. It had the classic Cape Cod seafood meals and award-winning clam chowder. It was also known for its buffets on holidays such as Mother’s Day, Easter and Thanksgiving. The talented staff could change the function room from buffet setup to nightclub setup in thirty minutes, an impressive feat for a three-hundred-seat establishment.

    The entertainment is what made Christine’s a landmark. There are legendary stories to attest to that fact.

    There was the time that the rock band Steppenwolf came to Christine’s. The Canadian American band had some major hit songs, including “Born to Be Wild” and “Magic Carpet Ride,” and sold more than twenty-five million albums worldwide. It also attracted a large biker following, and on the night that they played, some two-hundred-plus motorcycles packed the Christine’s parking lot to hear the band play.

    Sometimes Jamiel got lucky with the timing of the acts he booked, like the time he had R&B singer Chubby Checker come and play in 1988. Not too long after booking him, it was revealed that Checker was to play the halftime show of Super Bowl XXII between the Denver Broncos and Washington Redskins. The publicity for his appearance was off the charts.

    Then there were times like when the Guess Who came and played. The Canadian rock band had a string of massive hits in the 1960s, including “No Time,” “American Woman” and “These Eyes.” After playing a large arena show, the next stop for the band was Christine’s. The band walked into the three-hundred-seat function room thinking it was just a place where they were going to eat and asked where the venue was, not knowing they were there already.

A 1990 Christine's Ad featuring some big name artists.(Yarmouth Register)

    Perhaps the most famous story is that of the time the band War played. The California-based funk rock band had some substantial hits, including “Low Rider” in 1975. However, when the band was nearing the end of its show at Christine’s, the musicians played another hit—“Why Can’t We Be Friends?.” It was during this song about peace, love and friendship that a massive brawl erupted between patrons right in front of the stage, completely contradicting the message of the song.

    There was also the time that Boston Red Sox first baseman Mo Vaughn came to help promote the Dream Day on Cape Cod charitable event. He had just been named American League Most Valuable Player in 1995. Again, the hype for this appearance was palpable, and it included legendary Boston sportscaster Bob Lobel coming down to interview Vaughn from Christine’s.

    Not to be forgotten in the world of Christine’s entertainment was the Italian wedding show dinner theater and music from the reggae, folk and even disco genres. It was true that this spot had something for everyone.

    As the twenty-first century dawned, it started becoming harder to book acts due to the rise of local casinos. Jamiel said that felt he was “starting to get a little old for the nightclub scene.” It was around this time that he opened the first Ardeo Mediterranean Grill on Station Avenue in South Yarmouth. At one point, there were five of these spots featuring Mediterranean cuisine. For a few years, the Jamiel family ran both Ardeo and Christine’s, but the rapid success of Ardeo—combined with the tragic loss of Joe’s brother Geoffrey in 2006—made it easier to sell the legendary establishment.

The former Christine's building in 2008.(Google Maps)

    It has been over a decade since Christine’s lights went out for the last time, and people still reminisce about it. After sitting dormant for many years, in 2015, a new complex opened on that famous curve in West Dennis, anchored by a barbecue restaurant called Billygoats BBQ.  The new restaurant did not last very long.  In a fitting twist of irony though Ardeo, which had been closed for a few years, opened a new location in that very complex in 2019.  This means that Joe Jamiel is operating his business on the grounds where Christine's once reigned supreme. 

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Previous Blog Posts:

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Edna Harris, Pioneer of Cape Cod Business

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - The Lincoln Lodge, Harwich

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Zazzle Store: Cape Cod Living

The Marshside Chronicles

My love letter to my 2nd family.  I spent so many hours as a part of the original Marshside Restaurant in East Dennis.  This is a little retrospective featuring a lot of behind the scenes fun but also some regular customers and memories for those who might have paid it a visit during its original run of 1985-2007. 

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - The Cape's Drive-Ins

     The drive-in movie theater was at one time a staple of American life. Being able to enjoy a film on a large outdoor screen from the luxury of the inside of your car was a cherished memory for so many over several decades. Even though in 2020 there are only approximately 321 remaining there are still some classic drive-in theaters left in the country. On Cape Cod for so long the Wellfleet Drive-In was the last remaining vestige of a bygone era. However that changed in the summer of 2020 when the former Yarmouth Drive-In was brought back to life more than three decades after initially closing.

     The story of the drive-in is long and storied and intertwined with the Cape. Though there were drive-ins of a sort as far back as the 1910’s the first true, patented drive-in theater debuted on June 6, 1933. The first proper drive-in theater was the brainchild of Richard Hollingshead. He took the existing idea of watching silent films outdoors on screens and added the ability for the wildly popular automobile to become a part of it. Hollingshead opened his creation in Camden, New Jersey with a showing of the British comedy Wives Beware. Tickets cost 25 cents per person and also 25 cents per vehicle. The Camden Drive-In had a capacity of 400 cars and 600 people attended that first night’s showing.

The screen at the Camden Drive-In (Cinema Treasures.org)

     His investment of $30,000 ($595,000 in 2020) spawned a new industry that would sweep the nation. Though primitive in the beginning, including not having the individual speakers for cars, the drive-in slowly began to catch on. In January 1938 plans were discussed for a potential drive-in near the Barnstable Airport in Hyannis. These discussions were brief as the potential of such an attraction was not seen as being an asset to the Cape.

     By the end of the 1930’s there were 18 drive-ins located in America. These included four in Massachusetts in Weymouth, Lynn, Shrewsbury, and Methuen. In 1948 that number had leaped to 820 total theaters. It was around this time that the drive-in was finally seen as a worthwhile investment for Cape Cod.

     In May 1949 building contractor Louis Segrini of Mansfield, Massachusetts was granted a permit to build the first drive-in on Cape Cod. This drive-in would be far more than a place to watch movies in your car though. The 70 acre plot located on Hokum Rock Road in Dennis, near Rt. 134, was at the time the largest drive-in in New England. It had a capacity of 1,000 cars and would also become the first fly-in theater. This distinction came from the fact that small airplanes and helicopters could land on a strip near the back end of the grounds and taxi their way to spots to watch the movies from inside the plane. In addition to being the largest theater and a fly-in theater the Dennis Drive-In included a dance pavilion, bottle warming service for young mothers, refreshment stands, and even 20 nearby cottages to rent.

The Dennis Drive-In, 1949 (Cinema Treasures.org)

     Opening night was Saturday July 16, 1949. The theater played the color film Barkleys of Broadway featuring Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. It was a near sellout close to 1,000 cars. Rather than rest on his laurels Segrini parlayed the success of the Dennis Drive-In to a second theater planned for near the Mashpee Rotary in 1950. These plans never materialized. Cape Cod had to wait six years for a second drive-in to open.

     It was in the 1950’s that the drive-in hit its apex as an entertainment attraction. This was the case on Cape Cod as well. Herman Rifkin opened the Cod Drive-In in the Teaticket section of Falmouth in 1955. This was followed quickly by the Hyannis Drive-In on Rt. 132. The Yarmouth Drive-In on Rt. 28 followed in 1956 and finally the Wellfleet Drive-In was built on Rt. 6 in 1957. This brought the total to five drive-ins on Cape Cod. In 1958 the total number of theaters in the United States hit its high of 4,063.

The drive-in had continued success throughout the 1960’s and into the 1970’s. However the tide slowly began to turn. An increase in land values, the advent of VCR’s, and the fact that drive-in shows had to begin late with summer sunset times started to eat into business. By 1980 there were just over 2,000 drive-ins left. The 1980’s saw the virtual end of the industry on Cape Cod.

     It began in 1980 when the Cod Drive-In closed. The land just off of Rt. 28 was owned for years by the Augusta Family who own the abutting Falmouth Lumber. In the spring of 2003 a 23.7-acre parcel of the former drive-in land was purchased by the Town of Falmouth. As of 2020 though nothing has been done with that property.

     Next to close was the Dennis Drive-In in 1984. The property was to be turned into a housing subdivision however as of 2020 much of the property remains overgrown. Upon walking over the former grounds one can find chunks of asphalt, concrete, former speaker stands, and wire littered about.

The Wellfleet Drive-In, for decades the last one standing until 2020. (Massachusetts Office of Travel and Tourism)

     The Yarmouth Drive-In initially closed in 1985. Throughout the years many ideas were bandied about as to what should become of the 22-acre site. A river walk consisting of trails and boardwalks leading along Parker’s River out to Seagull Beach had potential yet never materialized. In July 2020 it was resurrected by Innovation Arts & Entertainment. The new Yarmouth Drive-In has been updated for the 21^st century with bright LED screens making daytime movies possible.

     In 1987 the Hyannis Drive-In became the fourth to close on the Cape in seven years. Though religious services took place on the grounds for a short time afterwards the property would eventually become home to Stop & Shop. It was also in 1987 where the total number of drive-ins dipped below 1,000 nationwide.

     The Wellfleet Drive-In for more than thirty years stood tall as the last beacon of a bygone era. It became a popular summer destination for those wishing for a slice of 1950’s nostalgia in a 21^st century world. As of 2020 it remains a perfect family night out during the summer.

     The drive-in theatre for a time was the place to see new movies. It became as much a part of pop culture of a bygone generation as the movies themselves did. Though their numbers massively dwindled as the decades passed the drive-in is not finished yet. In a time where social distancing is the new normal there is a potential for a comeback of some of these beloved old school icons.

    So what became of Richard Hollingshead’s original Camden Drive-In? Partially due to high movie rental costs and lower than expected crowds Hollingshead sold his theater less than three years after opening it to a man who ‘moved’ the business to Union, New Jersey. It did not reopen. The final insult came when Hollingshead’s company was sued in 1950 and lost his patent on some of the designs of the drive-in, the large rush of new theaters came shortly thereafter.

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In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Samuel de Champlain and Port Fortune

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In My Footsteps: Cape Cod - Scargo Tower

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In My Footsteps: Cape Cod - Nobscussett Burial Grounds

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Yellow Umbrella, Chatham August 4th





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Dennis on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 45: Dennis, Mass. - Part Two

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 45: Dennis, Mass. – Part Two

April 21, 2010

            After living on Cape Cod for nearly the entirety of my life it is difficult for me to find places that I either had not known about or had not seen.  On this second trip through Dennis I was able to discover one such place.  The town of Dennis, though settled by Thomas Howes and John Crowe (Crowell), got its name for the resident minister Josiah Dennis.  His saltbox home, the Josiah Dennis Manse, built in 1736, is a must see which functions as a museum as well.  Though it is highly recommended the museum is currently being renovated and will not be opened to the public again until 2011.

            The north side of Dennis has an incredible stretch of beaches that are some of the most popular on the Cape.  My beach of choice is Corporation Beach due to the scenic overlook that gives you a view of the beach below from about thirty feet up(left).  On a clear day you can easily see all the way up the coastline to Provincetown with the Pilgrim Monument standing out against the sky.  Another great view at Corporation Beach happens during big storms.  There is a long rock wall, separating the private homes from the ocean, which runs parallel to the parking lot about fifty feet out.  During these storms it is fun to park and watch the ocean waves crashing up and over the rock wall.  These views are what make Corporation Beach unique. 

Still, if that is not your thing, Chapin Beach offers a different sort of thrill which is off-roading.  The route to Chapin Beach is nearly two and a half miles leading to a very secluded parking lot; though in summer it is extremely crowded.  Those vehicles with the capability may opt to drive out along the beach which extends out to where the Chase Garden Creek Salt Marsh empties into Cape Cod Bay.  From there you have a great view of both Sandy Neck in Sandwich and the close by Grey’s Beach, also known as Bass Hole. 

After hitting the beaches there are more historical sites to see and of course they lie on Route 6A.  Around the intersection of 6A and Old Bass River Road there are a few places close together which makes it a great area to park and walk.  Located directly across the street from one another are two historic places.  The Carleton Hall, built in 1828, was originally created to be a Methodist ‘praying house.’  It was purchased in 1865 by Captain Carleton Howes and a group of local citizens to be used for community activities.  It is still used for that purpose to this day.

Across the street from the Carleton Hall, and next door to the fire station, is the Dennis Union Church(right).  Originally established in 1727 this church still plays the chimes at the tops of the hours.  It is incredible to be there at noon when it is almost as if an entire concert is being played for those in and around the church.  It has a large green in front of it with a gazebo; this spot is a tremendous place to get out of the hot sun, or to just sit and people watch along 6A.

Not more than a few hundred yards from the Dennis Union Church is the famous Dennis Playhouse(left).  It is the country’s oldest professional summer theatre.  Originally a Uniatrian Meeting House the Playhouse was begun by California native Raymond Moore in 1927.  A frequent visitor to Provincetown where he worked in the theatres there Moore desired to have a theatre of his own.  The first performance came on July 4, 1927 and was The Guardsman featuring Basil Rathbone.  In the time since many world famous performers have graced the stage inside the Playhouse or, in the case of Bette Davis, been discovered there.  Ms. Davis worked as an usher in the Playhouse when it opened.  Gregory Peck, Lana Turner, Humphrey Bogart, and Ginger Rogers are just a few of the performers that include shows at the Playhouse on their resumes.

Finally we come to a spot in Dennis that I had never actually been to.  Crows Pasture sits on South Street past the Quivett Cemetery on the east side of Sesuit Harbor.  The road out to Crows Pasture Beach is long, bumpy, and unpaved.  It is recommended that you take it slow, or better yet have a vehicle capable of four-wheel drive.  The scenery is amazing, especially during a first drive out there.  The 138-acre conservation area has many designated parking areas with views of Cape Cod Bay and the neighboring Quivett Creek Marsh(left).  On this trip I witnessed a few people out on the beach at low-tide shellfishing.  It is possible to park and any of the designated areas and taking a walk to the beach or to Coles Pond which sits in the northeast section of Crows Pasture and only a few hundred yards from the ocean.

Though it is relatively hidden to those unfamiliar with it, Crows Pasture is a spot in which a day can easily be spent simply enjoying the solitude and beauty of untouched Cape Cod.  I left there feeling like it was a part of the National Seashore on the mid-Cape; an area large enough to give you the feeling that it looked much the same as when the first settlers gazed upon it for the first time.

Whether taking a walk along Rt. 6A, where nearly everything has historical significance, or enjoying the untouched solitude of Crows Pasture, Dennis is a destination point with limitless possibilities for good times.  I enjoyed taking another look at the amazing sites that are in my own backyard and absolutely recommend any visitor to the Cape take some time to enjoy what this town has to offer.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Corporation Beach: From Rt. 6A heading east, turn left onto Corporation Rd.  Follow it to the beach.  Chapin Beach: From Rt. 6A heading east, turn left at New Boston Rd., take quick right onto Beach St.  Continue onto Taunton Ave., turn left at Dr. Botero Rd., continue onto Chapin Beach Rd.  Follow it to parking lot.

Crows Pasture:  From Rt. 6A heading east turn left onto School St.  Take first right at South Street.  Follow it past the cemetery on the right.  Entrance to Crows Pasture is straight ahead, remember road is dirt so drive carefully.

References:  Cape Playhouse     

            Dennis Historical Society

            Dennis Chamber of Commerce

Dennis on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 24: Cape Cod Rail Trail

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 24: Cape Cod Rail Trail

February 18, 2010

            The miles of beautiful beaches can fill your heart with happiness.  The lighthouses that dot the coastline can fill your mind with history.  However, the best way to really fill yourself up with the soul of Cape Cod is to take a ride on the Cape Cod Rail Trail.  The paved main trail from Dennis to Wellfleet is more than twenty miles of pure Cape beauty.

            First begun in 1976, and having gone through many cosmetic changes through the years, the Rail Trail mixes a little bit of everything that makes the Cape special.  There are several parking areas along the trail if you do not feel like riding the full distance and there are other trails on the Cape as well although the Rail Trail is the most well known.

            As for the actual meat and potatoes of the ride there is something for everyone.  A little over a mile from the beginning there is the West Reservoir which is almost always inhabited by swans and ducks.  There is a pathway to lead you to the water’s edge or you can observe the wildlife from the elevated perch of the trail.  There is a chance for another detour at the Bells Neck Conservation area in Harwich.  The bike trail goes through it along the northern fringe but is worth a closer look if you have the time.  The trail also passes along the Thatcher cranberry bog which is enormous as well as by a large blue water tower on the right side along Lothrop Avenue.  

            The trail forks off in Harwich with the main trail continuing on north and an offshoot trail heading onto Chatham and ending at the Chatham Municipal Airport.  The main trail crosses over the highway in a section of the trail that has only recently been developed.  For many years riders had to navigate along a treacherous section of Route 124 that included the on and off ramps at Exit 10. 

            The Pleasant Lake General Store in Brewster sits along Rt. 124 across the street from Hinckleys Pond which is also called Pleasant Lake.  This historic store is more than 150 years old and was once a railroad station and post office.  Now it is a must see spot and is a great place to fuel up with snacks and drinks.  There are picnic table outside of the store, this place is a favorite of mine and will surely create a fond memory for all travelers as well.

            The Rail Trail snakes its way in between Seymour and Long Pond on its way along Rt. 124.  There are great views of both water bodies but in summer the shores of Long Pond are privately rented and so looking from the trail is probably best.  The trail continues on its way through Brewster and passes by Nickerson State Park(above).  The Rail Trail heads off underneath Rt. 6A toward Orleans but Nickerson has its own bike path that can be accessed by cutting through Nickerson’s main parking lot.  There is another bridge over the highway as the Rail Trail passes through Orleans and heads for Eastham.  From this bridge, which passes over Rock Harbor Road as well, there is a great view of the Orleans Courthouse as well as the Orleans Rotary(right). 

            From this point the Rail Trail heads up into the National Seashore which begins by passing along several beautiful ponds in Eastham.  From the trail you can observe Herring Pond, Depot Pond, and Great Pond.  After crossing Rt. 6 the Rail Trail continues along to the Marconi Beach Rd.  If the time permits you should take the time to visit the Marconi Site and beach which I covered in my Wellfleet article.  From this point the trail continues on to Lecount Hollow Road which is where it comes to a close.  There is a great beach at the end of Lecount Hollow Rd. if you feel like continuing the ride.

            The Cape Cod Rail Trail is not the only bike path on the Cape.  In Falmouth there is the Shining Sea Bikeway which was mentioned in my Falmouth & Woods Hole article.  The trail is just over ten miles long and follows Cape Cod’s west coast through the Salt Pond Bird Sanctuary and then along the beaches in West Falmouth down into Woods Hole. 

            In Provincetown the Province Lands Bike Path(left) gives you a spectacular journey through some of the untouched majesty of Cape Cod.  Beginning at Herring Cove Beach and at just over five miles in length the trail includes several offshoot trails.  This bike trail needs to be experienced at least once.  The elusive Race Point Light is located down a dirt road adjacent to the trail and is a worthwhile walk for any visitor.  Plus there are many views of the nearby Pilgrim Monument which towers above the dunes and pine trees.  Some of the sand dunes stretch twenty to thirty feet into the air, it adds to the splendor of the ride and give the bike path a secluded feel.  It ends at Race Point Beach, the northern most point on the Cape, which also should be explored further if time permits.

            With several bike paths covering Cape Cod it may take a few trips before they are all seen and ridden.  The exercise you get from riding, or even walking, these trails is secondary to the enjoyment of becoming one with the very soul of Cape Cod.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Cape Cod Rail Trail: From Rt. 6 take Exit 9A, turn left into the bike path’s beginning parking lot just after Cranberry Square Plaza.   

Shining Sea Bikeway: From Bourne Bridge take Rt. 28 south, turn right onto Locust Rd., parking lot is 1 mi. passed, just after Pin Oak Way.

Province Lands Bikeway: Take Rt. 6 into Provincetown.  Turn right onto Province Lands Rd., enter Herring Cove Beach parking lot on left.  Bike trail begins at north end of lot.

References:  Shining Sea Bikeway

            Province Lands Bike Trail

            Cape Cod Bike Guide - Rail Trail

            History of Pleasant Lake

Woods Hole on Dwellable