In My Footsteps: Trip 101: Rockland, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 101:  Rockland, Mass.

December 16, 2010

            It was originally settled as a part of neighboring Abington.  With its historic Union Street filled with amazing homes, Rockland has definitely made its own path since separating from Abington in 1874.  Original European settler James Walshie settled Rockland in 1673.  It was used as a camp by Wampanoag sachem, or chief, Metacom, during King Philip’s War in 1675-76 during his raids on the town of Scituate.

Rockland Memorial Library

            Ironically although it shares the name with the town, Rockland Trust neither began in, nor has its corporate headquarters in Rockland.  I went and began photographing the Rockland Trust on Union Street thinking it was the original branch of the bank established in 1907.  I was fortunate enough to get to speak with a man from that branch and he informed me that the first branch of Rockland Trust was actually in Scituate.  The corporate headquarters are located in neighboring Hanover.  The branch I visited was opened in 1917 and actually was the corporate headquarters until 2008, so it was still historic but not exactly what I had thought.

The five soldiers in front of Rockland's Town Hall.

            Union Street is the main drag of Rockland and is the location of many of the historic buildings in the small town of just over 17,000.  Taking a walk along Union Street was great, despite the sidewalk being worked on.  The Rockland Memorial Library, on the corner of Union Street and Belmont Street, is a member of the Old Colony Library Network which accommodates much of the South Shore.  The building was erected in 1874 and has the same classic style as some of the buildings I enjoyed in Easton and Fairhaven that were created by Henry H. Richardson and Henry H. Rogers respectively.

            Up on the right from the library, on the corner of Union St. and North Avenue is a beautiful church, the Holy Family Church.  Established in 1882 it was the first church built after Rockland became a separate town.  It is made of brick which gives it a unique appearance.  There are several ‘block’ buildings as well in Rockland on Union Street.  Those are the buildings I have referenced several times before bearing a name on the concrete façade near the top.  I have been trying to find out who determined the names which adorn these blocks and can only assume they are the folks who fronted the money to have them built.  The Bigelow and Phoenix block buildings are a few such examples in Rockland.   

Lower Union Street Historic District

            Further down Union Street as it closes in on Market Street there is a really nice stretch of historic homes.  There are always historic homes in every town from the 17^th through 19^th century but the ones which make up the Lower Union Street Historic District were each unique in their own way.  The first home I saw actually caused me to do a double-take; I had to go back.  Built in 1846 it was amazing, yellow with red shutters and what looked like small awnings over the windows.  The colors of the house were only topped by the small fenced in front yard.  The picket fence was a mix of red, blue, pink, and yellow with some one of a kind lawn ornaments including a dresser and a tricycle covered with flowers.

            After that incredible display I parked at the end of Union Street and took a walk to see more of these homes up close.  There was a home from 1874 which was blue with red trim and had two large Christmas wreaths near the edges of the front.  The colors and layouts of these homes made each look like a dollhouse of sorts.  I found myself snapping photo after photo of this great stretch of Rockland’s Union Street.

Lower Union Street Historic District

            One spot that stood out to me was actually the Rockland Town Hall.  It was not so much the building itself but the display in front of it.  There in front of the sign stood five wooden soldiers each about three-feet tall.  They were from each branch of the military and gave the area a special feel as each of them cast a never ending salute to the cars passing by.

            Once a camp for Wampanoag sachem Metacom, Rockland has a rich history which is still quite evident as you walk the streets today.  From the ‘block’ buildings that I have seen to the longtime headquarters of Rockland Trust there is no shortage of sites to see.  Don’t forget to stop and salute the wooden soldiers in front of the Town Hall and check out the impressive stretch of unique historic homes of the Lower Union Street Historic District as it creeps toward Market Street.  That walk will really tie together everything you see in Rockland.  Have fun and happy traveling!

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Directions:  Rockland Town Hall:  From Rt. 3 take Exit 13, turn right at Rt. 53, left at Rt. 123.  Follow it 4 miles, turn right at Union St.  Town Hall is .2 miles down on right.  Lower Union St. Historic District begins .2 miles further down, just past Vernon St.

References:  Rockland, Ma.gov

            Rockland Memorial Library.org

In My Footsteps: Trip 54: The 3 Bridgewater Towns, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 54: The 3 Bridgewater Towns, Massachusetts

June 3, 2010

            Unlike many cities and towns whose smaller villages are considered part of the larger town, such as South Dennis and East Dennis being part of the town of Dennis, the three Bridgewater towns are each a separate entity.  East, West, and Bridgewater proper are all connected despite being different towns; I have decided to wrap them all into one article.

            That being said, the separate incorporations are not what drew me to pay a visit to these three towns.  My father’s side of my family has the vast majority of its roots in East Bridgewater, while the allure of paranormal activity at Hockomock Swamp in West Bridgewater was too much to pass up.

            I began my visit to the three Bridgewaters at the Beaver Cemetery in East Bridgewater.  One of my major interests on these trips is that of history.  Normally it is history of a town or famous person that I have no connection with.  However, in the case of East Bridgewater and Beaver Cemetery the history is all my own.  It is in Beaver Cemetery where I was able to find the graves of my great grandparents and my second great-grandparents as well as numerous great aunts and uncles. 

            Having done quite a bit of research on my own family tree in the recent months it was somewhat surreal to actually stand before the markers of some of these long since departed relatives.  The cemetery itself is small and on a rural intersection which made it very peaceful and quiet; a perfect setting to envelop myself in thought.  Not wanting my entire day to be spent in a cemetery I moved on in East Bridgewater.

            In keeping my eyes open as I drove I discovered a moss covered stone along Pleasant Street, not far from Beaver Cemetery.  It marks the site of an early Iron Works site in East Bridgewater(left).  The years marked on the stone are 1760-1887 and the site is along a creek bed that seemed to be quite dry.  I have done my research and have had trouble finding any sort of information about just what did lay on the spot marked by the East Bridgewater Bicentennial Commission in 1976.  That is something I would like to find out for myself someday.

Keeping with the theme of keeping my eyes open for places as I drove near the Town Hall I discovered a small but beautiful little green wedged like a triangle between three streets(left).  The green had a gazebo and an impressive World War II monument at the east end.  As with Saugus in my last article, the Town Hall in East Bridgewater stood out because of its different colors.  I can only describe them as salmon and periwinkle, it made the building look closer to a doll house than an official government spot.  I enjoyed the colors though, let me make that clear, I wish more towns experimented the way Saugus and East Bridgewater have.

Normally the historical societies of towns are located inside centuries old buildings.  In the case of West Bridgewater not only was this spot an historic site, it was also located next to a small farm loaded with cows out for a graze.  The Reverend James Keith House(right) is packed with history.  Built in 1662 it was the home of the first minister of what was then Old Bridgewater, James Keith.  The area on which the house was built was a colonial outpost and garrison.  This was important because it was in this very house where in 1676 the wife and son of King Philip, also known as Metacom, were held during King Philip’s War.  The Keith House is recognized as the oldest parsonage, or rectory, in America.

After leaving the Keith House and the adorable cows I headed for a more serious and sinister area.  Hockomock Swamp in West Bridgewater is the stuff of legend.  The 6,000 acre wetland was a strategic area for Metacom to launch attacks on nearby settlements during King Philip’s War but that is only scratching the surface of why the Hockomock name is so well known.

Coming from the Native American word meaning ‘where the spirits dwell’ Hockomock is seen by many as the site of strange occurrences to this day.  This has earned the area the nickname the ‘Bridgewater Triangle.’  Sightings of UFO’s, bigfoot, ‘black helicopters,’ and thunderbirds have been reported in this area.  Despite these possibilities I headed down to the swamp not expecting anything out of the ordinary. 

I will admit though that as I drove down a bumpy dirt road that carried me into the swamp the bright sun was quickly replaced with an eerie fog which gave me pause about my expedition momentarily.  I drove as far as I could and then walked from there.  The swamp area that I experienced was lush and green and filled with insects(left).  The only odd noises came from scattering birds that heard me coming but were out of sight from me.  Eventually the insects got the better of me before I got more than a mile into the quiet of the swamp and I was forced to retreat.  Although it would have been neat to see or hear something I could not explain I will admit that I am glad I did not.

Though separated into three completely independent towns East, West, and Bridgewater proper are all parts of one beautiful whole.  Having the opportunity to pay respect to some dearly departed relative in East Bridgewater and also getting to take a walk in the ‘Bridgewater Triangle’ made the trip one to remember.  Since they are all connected I highly recommend taking a day and visiting all three of the Bridgewater towns, it is well worth it.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Keith House:  From I-495 west take Exit 7A for Rt. 24 north.  Take Exit 16A for Rt. 106, turn right at N. Elm St.  Continue onto Charles St., turn left at River St., Keith House is #223.

            Hockomock Swamp:  From I-495 west take Exit 7A for Rt. 24 north.  Take Exit 16A for Rt. 106, turn left at N. Elm St.  Turn right at Grant Street, right at Copeland St., turn right after .3 miles, and a quick right to lead you around a cemetery, go straight and at the end is the entrance.

References: Hockomock Swamp - Boston.com

            Old Bridgewater Historical Society

            Bridgewater, Ma. - Official Site

In My Footsteps: Trip 53: Saugus, Mass.

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In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 53: Saugus, Mass.

May 20, 2010

            Though the North Shore is primarily known for its tremendous stretches of scenic, rocky, coastline, there are a few places away from the coast that are just as beautiful and need to be taken in.  Saugus is just one such place. 

            Located just to the west of Lynn, Saugus is rich with history at every turn.  Saugus, the Nipmuck Indian name for the area thought to mean ‘great,’ originally included the future towns of Swampscott, Lynn, Nahant, Lynnfield, Reading, and Wakefield.  The present-day Saugus was incorporated as a town in 1815 with agriculture as its main industry.  However, the main historic site in Saugus shows that this town was built on a much different industry.

            The Saugus Iron Works(left) was the first iron works in America, in operation from 1646-1668 it is now an historic site and museum.  This place is filled with tremendous views; the Saugus River flows behind the site with the main building set on a hill overlooking the river.  I found it quite ironic that the entirety of the Iron Works site looked like something from the Olde English countryside, the irony being that those who originally built and worked here were English colonists.  On this sunny day it was easy to take my time and get lost in each of the buildings which are filled with replicas of the original tools used.

            The Iron Works House, the large black building seen as you enter through the gates, is the only piece of architecture from the 17^th century on the grounds.  That building was erected around 1680, or about ten years after the Iron Works ceased operations.  The rest of the structures are recreations based on the findings of archaeologist Roland Robbins during his dig on the site from 1948 to 1953.  There is so much to explore here but even sitting on a bench taking in the scenery is a great way to spend some time.

            When entering Saugus I made it a point to seek out their town hall as I do with most of the places I visit.  As I have said, the buildings themselves are usually beautiful old structures and the surrounding grounds typically are well groomed and dotted with monuments or statues.  What I found particularly fascinating about Saugus’ Town Hall(right) even more than the structure itself was the colors.  Rather than the typical neutral colors like white or grey, the Saugus Town Hall is a combination of a dull-yellow and brown.  This town hall, the second one built in the town in 1875, despite its elegant beauty and rich colors was a sore spot that nearly tore the town apart. 

            When the Town Hall was constructed in 1875 it put Saugus in a $50,000 debt.  This was the main catalyst for the neighborhood of East Saugus to attempt to become separated from Saugus and annexed to the city of Lynn.  Unfortunately for the prospective people of East Saugus they were unable to get a bill in both the House and the Senate.  It was not a complete failure though as $5,000 was appropriated for new water pipes to be laid in East Saugus.

            After leaving the Town Hall area I headed for the Boardman House(right) on Howard Street.  This house is very unique, not just for the central chimney which sticks up through the middle of the roof.  Built in 1692 for joiner, a type of carpenter who does not use nails, William Boardman, the house has been untouched in design since the early 1700’s.  The only change occurred early in the house’s existence when a lean-to was added to the back of the house around 1696.  This change gives the house the look of a classic New England ‘salt box,’ even though theoretically it is not.  The house has five fireplaces, an outhouse in the backyard, and is owned by Historic New England.  The Boardman House can be toured from June through mid-October.

            The final place I visited was the beautiful Breakheart Reservation, a 640-acre forest located in Saugus and neighboring Wakefield.  There is a bike trail which leads to a freshwater beach at Pearce Lake only a mile from the lot where I parked.  The dirt trails lead to views of the Saugus River(left) as well as views of Boston and nearby areas from any of the seven high rocky hills.  I did not get to any of the huge rocky hills but I did have an experience on a smaller rock.

            While walking along the Saugus River I noticed a rock face stretching over forty feet up that ended up above the tree line.  There were no paths to get up to the clearing so I decided to scale the hill through the trees, rocks, and brush.  When I finally reached the top I was rewarded with an unbelievable view.  Before me was downtown Saugus while rolling green hills went on as far as I could see.  However, that was nothing compared to what was waiting behind me.

            After shooting a few shots of the landscape in front of me I turned around and was face to face with a young buck no more than ten yards away(right).  I stayed still and got some shots and a video of him, but then he began wagging his white tail and gave a defiant snort which made me wonder if mating season was still ongoing.  After a few minutes of waiting to see what his move was I decided to play it safe and I retreated down the rocky hill.  That experience in and of itself made the trip worthwhile, but obviously not everyone will get to see a deer as closely as I did.  Breakheart Reservation will definitely fill your soul with the sights, sounds, and scents of untouched nature, deer or no deer.

            The town of Saugus holds a different scope of sights than the typical North Shore town.  I suppose that is because it is not technically on the North Shore.  The Saugus Iron Works and Breakheart Reservation are two spots that definitely need to be visited as they are the definition of the historical and natural beauty that I strive to find in my trips.  Saugus has them both.  Have fun and happy traveling!




My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Saugus Iron Works:  From Rt. 1 North take Main Street Saugus exit.  Follow National Park signs east through Saugus Center to the Iron Works.  Along the way you will pass the Town Hall.

            Breakheart Reservation:  From Rt. 1 North take Lynn Fells Parkway exit, follow for a short way, turn right onto Forest Street, entrance to the park is right after Kasabuski Rink.

References:  Dept. of Conservation - Breakheart Reservation

            Town of Saugus - Official Site

            Saugus Iron Works

            Historic New England - Boardman House   

In My Footsteps: Trip 33: Middleboro, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 33: Middleboro, Mass.

March 18, 2010

            If charm were currency the town of Middleboro would be among the richest in the state.  There is a feel that cannot be measured when walking the streets of this small town.  First called Nemasket, meaning ‘place of fish’ by the Wampanoags, when settled in 1661, Middleboro is a place of historical and natural beauty that will feed your senses and soul.

            Middleboro has become the cranberry capital and is home to the corporate headquarters of Ocean Spray just across the town line.  The company, founded in 1930, began as a collection of three cranberry growers and has become the top brand of canned and bottled juice drinks in the country.  The 99,000 square foot building sits on sixteen acres containing cranberry bogs, ponds, and walking trails.  It is a great feeling knowing that such a large, successful corporation sits in the heart of Massachusetts.

            After a glimpse of the Ocean Spray grounds it was time to visit the heart of Middleboro.  This is where you get a real peek into the charm of this place.  The Middleboro Town Hall(right) is a shining example of it.  Built in the 1870’s the towering Victorian-style structure looks majestically over Rt. 105 which leads into a beautiful downtown area seemingly pulled right from a story.  I felt it necessary to take a walk in the sun around this area to appreciate it more.

            The Town Hall grounds house a few more places of interest including a Civil War monument(left) standing proudly in front of the Hall.  To its left is an even more spectacular memorial dedicated to veterans of all wars.  The American and P.O.W./M.I.A. flags fly above this incredible display which includes amazing marble benches sporting the names of every conflict faced by this country.  It even made a point to honor the Texas Revolution and King Philip’s War which astounded me.  The intricate bricks that fill the center of the memorial are special as well; many of them have names of soldiers from Middleboro who fought and died in the wars.  I felt honored to be standing among these brave soldiers, even if it was just their names.

            For more historical sites one only has to drive a few blocks from the Town Hall to find two of them.  There is the Robbins Museum of Archaeology named for Dr. Maurice Robbins, one of the founders of the Massachusetts Archaeological Society.  Just across the street is the Middleboro Historical Museum as well as the Tom Thumb Museum.  The latter features a large, interesting collection of items dealing with famed P.T. Barnum performer Charles Stratton.  He was a dwarf who only grew to a height of less than three and a half feet but became a celebrity during the early days of Barnum’s traveling shows.  Stratton and his wife, Lavinia, made their home in Middleboro and the museum is a touching tribute to an early American celebrity.  

            After leaving the downtown area of Middleboro it was time for lunch and a very special treat.  Located on Rt. 28 is Dave’s Diner(left), an authentic throwback to the classic diners of the 1950’s.  Although it looks the part, this great spot was actually built in Florida in 1997 and shipped in pieces up to its current location.  However, if they did not mention that fact you would be hard pressed to know that it was only 13 years old. 

            The location and atmosphere is amazing with 50’s and 60’s memorabilia hanging all over every wall, there is no need to read a newspaper or watch a television as the memorabilia is entertaining enough.  I decided to order breakfast which is served all day and chose the ‘Elvis’ pancakes which consisted of bananas along with chocolate and peanut butter chips.  Needless to say I was not disappointed with the taste or the portions.  The service and overall mood of the diner is off the charts, the people are all so friendly and seem to thrive on the carefree 50’s vibe.  I highly recommend that you make a stop at Dave’s if you are in the area, or even if you are not.  I made it a scheduled stop on my trip thanks to great reviews and here is another great review.

            One last area that I needed to stop and see in this wondrous little town was Oliver Mill Park(right).  It was named for Peter Oliver, an 18^th Century citizen who purchased much of the land surrounding the current park and built an iron foundry on the park grounds.  Eventually Oliver became very powerful, rising to the rank of judge of the Superior Court, a rank which left him only second to the governor of the colony in 1762.

            On this day the ravages of the recent rainstorms had left the park flooded by the Nemasket River, most of the picnic area was surrounded by water being patrolled by geese.  The most incredible sight on the park grounds is the remains of an 18^th Century ironworks which was later converted to a shovel shop after 1800.  Parts of the building are still visible including much of a wall with what can only be assumed to be an old window opening.  Despite the flooded park it was still possible to walk around these remains and marvel at what it must have looked like when it was a thriving industrial spot.        

            With beautiful downtown shops and streets for walking, an amazing throwback diner serving great meals all day, and an historic feel in many locations, Middleboro is worth the trip from anywhere in the state.  So pay your respects at the war memorial at Town Hall, grab some lunch at Dave’s Diner, and relax along the shores of the Nemasket at Oliver Mill Park.  It all adds up to a nearly perfect day.  Have fun and happy traveling!   

Directions: Middleboro Town Hall: From I-495 North take the exit toward S. Main St.  Turn left at S. Main St.  Turn left at Nickerson Ave., the Town Hall and war memorials are on the left.

Dave’s Diner:  From I-495 take Exit 6 for Rt. 44, at traffic circle take 2^nd exit for Rt. 28.  Turn right toward Anderson Ave., take 1^st right onto Anderson Ave., make a U-Turn, diner will be on right.

Oliver Mill Park: From I-495 take Exit 6 for Rt. 44, at traffic circle take 3^rd exit to stay on Rt. 44.  Turn right at Plymouth St., take the 1^st left to stay on Plymouth St. 

References: Dave's Diner

            Middleboro Official Town Site

            About.com - General Tom Thumb