In My Footsteps: Trip 36: Bristol, Rhode Island

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 36: Bristol, Rhode Island

March 25, 2010

            When it comes to the most historic towns in New England there are many that would come to mind right away.  It might take a while to name the beautiful coastal town of Bristol, Rhode Island as one of those towns.  However after taking a drive down the east coast of Rhode Island and walking the amazing downtown area of Bristol any visitor will find out just why this town ranks up near the top of historic places in this region.

            For the first trip outside of Massachusetts I chose Bristol because of the fact that it was an underrated historical town; its history goes back as far as 1675.  It was here that the first battle of King Philip’s War took place; this was the battle between the European settlers and Native American sachem, or chief, Metacom.  Founded in 1680 originally as a part of Plymouth County and named for a town in England, Bristol’s main settlers were the DeWolf family. 

            James DeWolf started out as a leading slave trader and was a Revolutionary War veteran captured twice.  He eventually became a senator in Rhode Island from 1821-25.  Fortunately local Quakers fought to abolish slavery not too long after the Revolution.  The DeWolf family’s home, Linden Place(left) on Hope Street, was built in 1810 and is currently a museum.  Concerts and performances take place during the year and there are many other events going on to celebrate the bicentennial of Linden Place.  This piece of history, however, is only the beginning of an incredible visit to Bristol.

            A great place to start a trip into Bristol is the entrance to the town: The Mount Hope Bridge(right).  Named for a hill in Bristol which overlooks Mount Hope Bay, it is a very important site as it is located close to the spot where Metacom met his demise during King Philip’s War.  The bridge itself was initially proposed in 1920 as a way to connect Bristol and Portsmouth across one of the narrowest parts of Narragansett Bay.  The bridge is built in a classic suspension style, much like San Francisco’s Golden Gate, it spans more than 6,000 feet from end to end and is a registered historic place.  There is a small parking area at the foot of the bridge where the history of it is captured in several images. 

            The only unfortunate part of the Mount Hope Bridge being built is the fact that it hides another historic Bristol location.  The Bristol Ferry Lighthouse(left), built in 1855, sits almost directly underneath the bridge.  Discontinued shortly after the completion of the bridge, the lighthouse is now privately owned.  It can be viewed from the end of Old Ferry Road which runs along the dorms of Roger Williams University.  This is a must see spot for the great views of the lighthouse, bridge, and the shoreline of Portsmouth across the bay.  It is from this spot that you can truly appreciate just how long the Mount Hope Bridge really is as it stretches out of sight.  It is a perfect example of the progression of our own capabilities as humans to see this mammoth steel creation towering over a modest forty-foot brick lighthouse.

            There is no shortage of historic places to see in the historic downtown area of Bristol.  In fact the best way to fully appreciate this area is to find a spot along Hope Street and walk.  If you are like me you will find yourself stopping every few steps and snapping photos of almost every building you see.  I wanted to make sure that I pointed out at least a couple of really amazing spots that caught my eye during my walk on the streets of Bristol.  The first one actually sat right in front of where I parked.

            The Burnside Memorial Building which doubles as a courthouse at times is located next to the Bristol Town Hall.  It was originally built in 1883 as a tribute to the Civil War General, and Bristol native, Ambrose Burnside.  Along the side and behind the building is a spectacular war memorial(left) encompassing all of the major conflicts faced by our country.  It begins with a statue featuring two soldiers looking off toward the water.  From there you will walk along a brick walkway featuring the names of donators to the memorial as well as incredible granite stones with names of some wars and local veterans on them.  The highlight for me was the wall at the back of the memorial which featured the names of all of the local casualties of all of the wars up to and including the current conflicts in Iraq and Afghanistan.  The stone has such a brilliant reflection to it that it was possible for me to see the Burnside Memorial Building in great detail while staring at the names listed.  It was hard not to get a greater scope of the horrors of war by looking at all of the names listed and realizing that it was only for the town of Bristol.

            The Burnside Memorial Building is just one of a seemingly unlimited number of historic places in this hidden gem of a town.  There are thirteen officially recognized places included in the National Register of Historic Places in Bristol to be exact.  The final spot I visited in Bristol is a great way to capture the maritime feel: Independence Park.  Located along Thames Street and sitting on Bristol Harbor this park is the starting point for the East Bay Bike Path.  There is a rocky pier for fishing and a beach used more for launching boats than swimming.  There is a monument to Christopher Columbus’ voyage across the Atlantic on the southern side of the park as well as a World War II era artillery gun facing out into the harbor.  It is a great spot to watch the boats come in, watch the people and cars pass by along historic Thames Street, or to grab a bite to eat at Quito’s seafood restaurant. 

            A true hidden gem of a town, Bristol is so filled with history that I feel I have most certainly missed a great deal of sites despite having seen so much.  I believe that any visitor needs to take in the scope of the Mount Hope Bridge, walk the historic Hope and Thames streets, and visit Independence Park or the nearby Colt State Park.  Get out and enjoy Bristol.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Bristol Ferry Light/Mount Hope Bridge: From Rt. 114 heading north cross over Mt. Hope Bridge.  Take first right turn onto Old Ferry Road.  Follow it to the water, there is a small area to park and look upon the bridge and water.  The lighthouse is located on the right.

Independence Park: From Rt. 114 heading north, cross over Mt. Hope Bridge.  Follow Ferry Road and take a left at Hope Street to stay on Rt. 114.  Follow Rt. 114/Hope Street to Franklin St., turn left and the park is in front of you.

Historic District:  From Rt. 114 heading north, cross over Mt. Hope Bridge.  Follow Ferry Road and take a left at Hope St. to stay on Rt. 114.  From there it is a matter of where to start.  There is parking on the street and Thames Street is the next street to the west along the water.

References: Discover Bristol.com

            Quitos Restaurant  

            Lighthouse Friends.com - Bristol Ferry Light

In My Footsteps: Trip 33: Middleboro, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 33: Middleboro, Mass.

March 18, 2010

            If charm were currency the town of Middleboro would be among the richest in the state.  There is a feel that cannot be measured when walking the streets of this small town.  First called Nemasket, meaning ‘place of fish’ by the Wampanoags, when settled in 1661, Middleboro is a place of historical and natural beauty that will feed your senses and soul.

            Middleboro has become the cranberry capital and is home to the corporate headquarters of Ocean Spray just across the town line.  The company, founded in 1930, began as a collection of three cranberry growers and has become the top brand of canned and bottled juice drinks in the country.  The 99,000 square foot building sits on sixteen acres containing cranberry bogs, ponds, and walking trails.  It is a great feeling knowing that such a large, successful corporation sits in the heart of Massachusetts.

            After a glimpse of the Ocean Spray grounds it was time to visit the heart of Middleboro.  This is where you get a real peek into the charm of this place.  The Middleboro Town Hall(right) is a shining example of it.  Built in the 1870’s the towering Victorian-style structure looks majestically over Rt. 105 which leads into a beautiful downtown area seemingly pulled right from a story.  I felt it necessary to take a walk in the sun around this area to appreciate it more.

            The Town Hall grounds house a few more places of interest including a Civil War monument(left) standing proudly in front of the Hall.  To its left is an even more spectacular memorial dedicated to veterans of all wars.  The American and P.O.W./M.I.A. flags fly above this incredible display which includes amazing marble benches sporting the names of every conflict faced by this country.  It even made a point to honor the Texas Revolution and King Philip’s War which astounded me.  The intricate bricks that fill the center of the memorial are special as well; many of them have names of soldiers from Middleboro who fought and died in the wars.  I felt honored to be standing among these brave soldiers, even if it was just their names.

            For more historical sites one only has to drive a few blocks from the Town Hall to find two of them.  There is the Robbins Museum of Archaeology named for Dr. Maurice Robbins, one of the founders of the Massachusetts Archaeological Society.  Just across the street is the Middleboro Historical Museum as well as the Tom Thumb Museum.  The latter features a large, interesting collection of items dealing with famed P.T. Barnum performer Charles Stratton.  He was a dwarf who only grew to a height of less than three and a half feet but became a celebrity during the early days of Barnum’s traveling shows.  Stratton and his wife, Lavinia, made their home in Middleboro and the museum is a touching tribute to an early American celebrity.  

            After leaving the downtown area of Middleboro it was time for lunch and a very special treat.  Located on Rt. 28 is Dave’s Diner(left), an authentic throwback to the classic diners of the 1950’s.  Although it looks the part, this great spot was actually built in Florida in 1997 and shipped in pieces up to its current location.  However, if they did not mention that fact you would be hard pressed to know that it was only 13 years old. 

            The location and atmosphere is amazing with 50’s and 60’s memorabilia hanging all over every wall, there is no need to read a newspaper or watch a television as the memorabilia is entertaining enough.  I decided to order breakfast which is served all day and chose the ‘Elvis’ pancakes which consisted of bananas along with chocolate and peanut butter chips.  Needless to say I was not disappointed with the taste or the portions.  The service and overall mood of the diner is off the charts, the people are all so friendly and seem to thrive on the carefree 50’s vibe.  I highly recommend that you make a stop at Dave’s if you are in the area, or even if you are not.  I made it a scheduled stop on my trip thanks to great reviews and here is another great review.

            One last area that I needed to stop and see in this wondrous little town was Oliver Mill Park(right).  It was named for Peter Oliver, an 18^th Century citizen who purchased much of the land surrounding the current park and built an iron foundry on the park grounds.  Eventually Oliver became very powerful, rising to the rank of judge of the Superior Court, a rank which left him only second to the governor of the colony in 1762.

            On this day the ravages of the recent rainstorms had left the park flooded by the Nemasket River, most of the picnic area was surrounded by water being patrolled by geese.  The most incredible sight on the park grounds is the remains of an 18^th Century ironworks which was later converted to a shovel shop after 1800.  Parts of the building are still visible including much of a wall with what can only be assumed to be an old window opening.  Despite the flooded park it was still possible to walk around these remains and marvel at what it must have looked like when it was a thriving industrial spot.        

            With beautiful downtown shops and streets for walking, an amazing throwback diner serving great meals all day, and an historic feel in many locations, Middleboro is worth the trip from anywhere in the state.  So pay your respects at the war memorial at Town Hall, grab some lunch at Dave’s Diner, and relax along the shores of the Nemasket at Oliver Mill Park.  It all adds up to a nearly perfect day.  Have fun and happy traveling!   

Directions: Middleboro Town Hall: From I-495 North take the exit toward S. Main St.  Turn left at S. Main St.  Turn left at Nickerson Ave., the Town Hall and war memorials are on the left.

Dave’s Diner:  From I-495 take Exit 6 for Rt. 44, at traffic circle take 2^nd exit for Rt. 28.  Turn right toward Anderson Ave., take 1^st right onto Anderson Ave., make a U-Turn, diner will be on right.

Oliver Mill Park: From I-495 take Exit 6 for Rt. 44, at traffic circle take 3^rd exit to stay on Rt. 44.  Turn right at Plymouth St., take the 1^st left to stay on Plymouth St. 

References: Dave's Diner

            Middleboro Official Town Site

            About.com - General Tom Thumb