The blog of In My Footsteps Podcast host and author Christopher Setterlund. It contains a buffet of topics. The wackiness of daily life with Initial Impressions 2.0. There is a link to the weekly In My Footsteps Podcast. Poetry collections, life topics, some history, and more. There is something for everyone here much like with the podcast.
Wednesday, August 18, 2021
Saturday, August 14, 2021
In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Lawrence's Sandwich Depot, Falmouth Heights
It served four generations of locals and visitors. It lasted from horses and buggies to smartphones and wifi. Whether a bakery, a sandwich depot, or a straight up restaurant, when it came to eating establishments on Cape Cod there was only one Lawrence’s. This is the long and storied history of this beloved business and the people that helped it last nearly a century.
The tale of Lawrence’s goes back more than a century and a half to the birth of its namesake. Lyman M. Lawrence was born in Falmouth in 1850. As was common on Cape Cod in the 19th century ‘Lyme,’ as he was affectionately called, took a job on a ship at sea when he was a teenager. He was reported to have done at least one journey around the world in his time on the open ocean. Even after leaving the long journeys on whalers behind Lyme remained a sailor and fisherman. During his young adulthood Lawrence spent ample time on Martha’s Vineyard hunting and fishing. He even was said to have made good money in turtle hunting which included him sending his catch to Philadelphia restaurants.
The trajectory of his life changed as he entered his 30’s. Lyman married Alice Upham of Bristol, Maine on May 11, 1882. They would remain together until his death. Even before he crossed over into the business world Lawrence was said to have been a habitual practical joker with a keen sense of humor. He was in every sense of the word a people person. The big break of Lyman’s business life came from an interaction with one of his closest friends and fishing buddy Dr. Walter Swazey.
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| Falmouth Heights 1908(Falmouth Public Library) |
A huge fan of fishing Lyme was typically out on a boat or in his small fishing shack on Grand Avenue cleaning his catch. However one day early in 1892 he was struck with a flare up of his rheumatoid arthritis and thus was not able to go fishing. Lawrence instead visited his friend Swazey and began to measure his fishing shack. It was 12x12-feet. Lyme turned to Swazey and remarked that it was the size of the store he was planning to build.
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| Falmouth Public Library |
In time for the summer season of 1892 Lyman Lawrence had done just that. Already in his early-40’s Lyme built a small bakery on the corner of Nantucket Avenue and Indiana Avenue overlooking the water in Falmouth Heights. His wife Alice was his first assistant. The initial patrons of Lawrence’s Sandwich Shop were met with a simplistic setup. Inside the tiny shop was a counter, a kerosene lamp, one chair, and a peanut roaster. The food on hand was equally as simplistic. Typically there would be a bunch of bananas, some sliced ham and cheese, and bread made freshly in store by Lyme. He made the ham and cheese sandwiches to order for five cents. The bakery at first was a money loser, even when adjusted for inflation Lawrence was charging $1.50 per sandwich by 2021 standards.
However as previously stated Lyme was a people person and his personality brought loyal customers back repeatedly. Business began to increase and the building began to expand. Word of mouth spread about the quality of the food with Lyman slicing the bread by hand, slathering on some butter, and filling it with ham and cheese. Naturally later a greater variety of meats came along. A major selling point for those who had never visited Lawrence’s Sandwich Shop was the attention to hygiene and cleanliness. Lyman and anybody he had working for him never touched a customer’s sandwich with bare hands. From the cutting of the fresh bread to the finished sandwich product utensils were used to create the food. At the turn of the 20th century Lyme was ahead of his time.
In the early 1900’s the business grew, as did the somewhat wacky escapades of its owner. A favorite past time of Lawrence was to get a customer sitting inside eating and while they were doing so he would sneak out, unhitch their horse, and quietly lead it away. The customer would be agitated at first before laughing and realizing they had been pranked by Lyme.
On many days people would come to have a light lunch and commiserate on beautiful Falmouth Heights. There were equally as many evenings where Lawrence would hold court outside his shop swapping stories. One legendary story consisted of a time that a pair of thieves were seen by Dr. Swazey stealing the dory owned by he and Lyman. After procuring a boat owned by Webster Draper of the nearby Cottage Club Swazey and Lawrence gave chase. One of the thieves fired a shot toward the pair. However Swazey returned fire and shattered one of the oars from the dory. Shortly thereafter the thieves surrendered. They were returned to shore by Swazey and Lyman with a crowd of 50-60 on the beach cheering. It turned out the thieves had escaped from the Barnstable jail.
In 1912 Lyman hired a young man named Clifford Wood to help him run his increasingly busy sandwich shop. Lawrence typically hired one or two people to help him each summer and learn his sandwich making methods. Wood however was in it for the long haul. After working alongside Lyme for more than a decade Wood made him an offer. Lyman sold the business to Clifford in 1926 and quietly slipped off into retirement in Lake Worth, Florida at 76.
With Wood running the ship Lawrence’s Sandwich Shop became the Sandwich Depot. In 1931 the biggest change since its inception came when a brand new building was created. Gone was the tiny sandwich shack, here was a building that could seat 350. The business itself enlarged on the corner of what became #24 Nantucket Avenue. It was complete with knotty pine walls, hand-hewn beams, a fireplace, two outdoor gardens for summer, and a pond.
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| The interior of the new building. (Falmouth Public Library) |
Though it was no longer simplistic Lawrence’s Sandwich Depot kept its roots close. The sandwich making process remained virtually unchanged albeit on a much larger scale. A counter ran the entire length of one end of the building with a soda fountain sitting in front of an authentic ship’s wheel. It hearkened back to Lyman’s fishing history. The main attachment to its past was Lyme himself. Although fully retired he could not stay away. In fact he spent the entire summer of 1933 working full-time hours at the new location. That summer would be Lyme’s last at his former establishment and his last visit to Cape Cod.
Lawrence’s health began to fail near the end of the summer of 1936. His old friend Clifford Wood made it a point to be there for him in his time of need. Lyman Lawrence died October 12, 1936 at the age of 87. Falmouth and Cape Cod as a whole mourned the loss of a one-of-a-kind character and hugely popular businessman.
Clifford Wood carried on the legacy of Lawrence’s Sandwich Depot. It held tight to its past while also embracing its popularity as a more traditional restaurant. The only thing to slow the growth of the establishment was World War II which led to Lawrence’s remaining closed in 1943. Clifford made the Sandwich Depot a centerpiece of summer life in Falmouth Heights. He held the reigns of the establishment until his death in October 1955 at the age of 60. Clifford’s wife Idamae took over for him and continued the success into the 1960’s.
Lawrence’s Sandwich Depot was passed down to Clifford and Idamae’s son Donald. It was rechristened Lawrence’s Restaurant. Despite the name change Donald was fond of holding nostalgic memorabilia events at the establishment that relived and celebrated its rich history. He ran it until 1986 when it was sold to James Carroll. Lawrence’s Restaurant continued to be a summer favorite in The Heights into the 21st century.
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| Where Lawrence's once stood. (Google Maps) |
From the days of horses and buggies to the days of cell phones and internet, Lawrence’s was there through it all. Whether a simple bakery, a sandwich shop, or full-fledged summer restaurant, the people came to visit the establishment on Nantucket Avenue. Behind the century of success though was a modern thinker who screamed ‘Olde Cape Cod.’ Lyman Lawrence mixed his traditional upbringing with a contemporary sense of business, added an ample amount amount of good humor and bright personality to create someone still beloved nearly a century after his death. The memory of Lawrence’s will long echo among the people of Falmouth Heights.
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Previous Blog Posts:
Friday, August 13, 2021
Thursday, August 12, 2021
Saturday, August 7, 2021
Thursday, August 5, 2021
Sunday, August 1, 2021
In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Christine's Restaurant & Showroom, West Dennis
It was a can’t-miss spot, both literally and figuratively. Located on the big curve of Route 28 in West Dennis, Christine’s set the bar high when it came to entertainment. Some famous names graced the stage in the twenty-five years this landmark was in existence. The three-hundred-seat Christine’s packed people in on a nightly basis.
It began in 1980, when Joe Jamiel, straight out of college, purchased the property and originally called it Celebrities. It was a young rock-and-roll bar back when the drinking age on Cape Cod was still eighteen. When the drinking age was raised, Jamiel decided to change with the times. The hopping nightclub atmosphere of Celebrities was replaced with a function room for private parties, banquets and family-style meals. The only thing left was choosing the new name. Jamiel named the venue Christine’s after his wife, and the new establishment opened in 1983.
Despite the changes, this spot did not lose its appeal; in fact, it gained even more. The young rock-and-roll bar began incorporating all sorts of musical tastes to increase its audience. Monday was jazz night, and many legendary local musicians played there weekly. Tuesdays were reserved for standup comedy, including a young Jay Leno, who plied his trade on stage there before later becoming host of the Tonight Show for many years.
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| A 1987 Ad for Christine's(Yarmouth Register) |
Shows started between 9:00 and 9:30 p.m. and never ceased to amaze and enthrall customers. Jamiel credits having really good agents for helping him book many talented acts. Christine’s was seen as the little stepchild of the Melody Tent, a popular music venue that opened in Hyannis in 1950 and is still running strong as of 2016. This was due in part to the fact that several acts would play the Tent and then Christine’s, or vice-versa.
It was a family-run restaurant, with Joe Jamiel booking the entertainment, his brother Geoffrey working as the chef and his wife, Christine, running the front of the house. His kids ran and played throughout the restaurant, adding to the true family atmosphere that they wanted to display.
Though it was known for tremendous entertainment, Christine’s could hold its own with cuisine as well. It had the classic Cape Cod seafood meals and award-winning clam chowder. It was also known for its buffets on holidays such as Mother’s Day, Easter and Thanksgiving. The talented staff could change the function room from buffet setup to nightclub setup in thirty minutes, an impressive feat for a three-hundred-seat establishment.
The entertainment is what made Christine’s a landmark. There are legendary stories to attest to that fact.
There was the time that the rock band Steppenwolf came to Christine’s. The Canadian American band had some major hit songs, including “Born to Be Wild” and “Magic Carpet Ride,” and sold more than twenty-five million albums worldwide. It also attracted a large biker following, and on the night that they played, some two-hundred-plus motorcycles packed the Christine’s parking lot to hear the band play.
Sometimes Jamiel got lucky with the timing of the acts he booked, like the time he had R&B singer Chubby Checker come and play in 1988. Not too long after booking him, it was revealed that Checker was to play the halftime show of Super Bowl XXII between the Denver Broncos and Washington Redskins. The publicity for his appearance was off the charts.
Then there were times like when the Guess Who came and played. The Canadian rock band had a string of massive hits in the 1960s, including “No Time,” “American Woman” and “These Eyes.” After playing a large arena show, the next stop for the band was Christine’s. The band walked into the three-hundred-seat function room thinking it was just a place where they were going to eat and asked where the venue was, not knowing they were there already.
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| A 1990 Christine's Ad featuring some big name artists.(Yarmouth Register) |
Perhaps the most famous story is that of the time the band War played. The California-based funk rock band had some substantial hits, including “Low Rider” in 1975. However, when the band was nearing the end of its show at Christine’s, the musicians played another hit—“Why Can’t We Be Friends?.” It was during this song about peace, love and friendship that a massive brawl erupted between patrons right in front of the stage, completely contradicting the message of the song.
There was also the time that Boston Red Sox first baseman Mo Vaughn came to help promote the Dream Day on Cape Cod charitable event. He had just been named American League Most Valuable Player in 1995. Again, the hype for this appearance was palpable, and it included legendary Boston sportscaster Bob Lobel coming down to interview Vaughn from Christine’s.
Not to be forgotten in the world of Christine’s entertainment was the Italian wedding show dinner theater and music from the reggae, folk and even disco genres. It was true that this spot had something for everyone.
As the twenty-first century dawned, it started becoming harder to book acts due to the rise of local casinos. Jamiel said that felt he was “starting to get a little old for the nightclub scene.” It was around this time that he opened the first Ardeo Mediterranean Grill on Station Avenue in South Yarmouth. At one point, there were five of these spots featuring Mediterranean cuisine. For a few years, the Jamiel family ran both Ardeo and Christine’s, but the rapid success of Ardeo—combined with the tragic loss of Joe’s brother Geoffrey in 2006—made it easier to sell the legendary establishment.
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| The former Christine's building in 2008.(Google Maps) |
It has been over a decade since Christine’s lights went out for the last time, and people still reminisce about it. After sitting dormant for many years, in 2015, a new complex opened on that famous curve in West Dennis, anchored by a barbecue restaurant called Billygoats BBQ. The new restaurant did not last very long. In a fitting twist of irony though Ardeo, which had been closed for a few years, opened a new location in that very complex in 2019. This means that Joe Jamiel is operating his business on the grounds where Christine's once reigned supreme.
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