Grand Illumination 2018 - Martha's Vineyard

In My Footsteps: Oak Bluffs, Massachusetts

     The northeast corner of the island of Martha’s Vineyard is home to a town that combines the plentiful ocean views with spectacular attractions and history. Here is a little taste of Oak Bluffs.

     

     The town of Oak Bluffs was originally incorporated in 1880 and known as Cottage City based on the fact that it was mainly a seasonal village in the beginning. As it became more of a year-round place to live the name was changed to Oak Bluffs in 1907. The town covers 7.37-square miles and is stocked full of incredible restaurants, shops, historical sites, beaches, and natural beauty.

     The ferry is the most common way to traverse across Vineyard Sound to the island, although it is also possible to fly. The Steamship Authority runs ferries from Woods Hole to Vineyard Haven year round. They also run ferries directly into Oak Bluffs from mid-May through late-October. These ferries take approximately forty-five minutes and are quick and safe.

     The approach to Oak Bluffs is dotted with anchored boats and other vessels passing by as you head in toward an island which feels like Cape Cod yet not. The ferry terminal faces Seaview Avenue and Oak Bluffs Avenue while giving you a feast for the eyes as far as sights go. Directly to the north of the terminal is the Oak Bluffs Fishing Pier. Stretching just over 300-feet out into the ocean this pier was first opened in June 2014 and cost $1 million. It is a tremendous spot to watch the passing boats, take in the sea breezes and salt air, or of course fish.

The Ocean Park bandstand

     Before even stepping on to dry land your eyes are drawn to Ocean Park and its historic bandstand. Surrounded by Victorian homes this green open space is routinely filled with people. One of the homes facing the park, the Tucker House, is famous for having President Ulysses S. Grant there in 1874 to watch fireworks from the roof of the home. The annual summer fireworks held in August draw upwards of 5,000 people in and around the park.

     Whether you travel north or south from the ferry docks there are great recreation opportunities. There are many ways to get around if you don’t bring your own transportation from the Vineyard Transit Authority buses to stopping at Anderson’s Bike Rentals in season on Circuit Avenue Extension.

     To the north you pass around Oak Bluffs Harbor which is filled with boats coming and going. Turn right off Lake Avenue onto East Chop Drive and head out to East Chop Lighthouse situated on Telegraph Hill. The route out to East Chop Light has changed in the last year or so. In April 2018 it was announced that a particularly vulnerable section of the roadway would be closed to vehicle traffic, although still open to pedestrians and bicycles. The 2,000-foot gap in the road between Brewster Avenue and Munroe Avenue are still closed as of September 2019 due to the severely eroding bluffs. A plan is ready to help stabilize the bluff, however the town still needs much of the funding to enact it.

East Chop Lighthouse

     

     The current East Chop Lighthouse is the third structure at the site having been erected in 1878 and stands forty-feet tall. Ironically the previous East Chop Light, which was built as part of a home, still stands on the corner of East Chop Drive and Sandy Bluff Lane a few hundred yards east, although greatly altered so one would never know it used to be a lighthouse. East Chop Lighthouse has beautiful views of Vineyard Sound and Falmouth in the distance and the entrance way through a turnstile surrounded by white picket fence is sublime.

     When venturing south from the Steamship Authority docks it is a tale of spectacular beaches. It begins only a few hundred yards south with Inkwell Beach. This small stretch of beach bordered by a pair of jetties sitting adjacent from Waban Park has a name that has been up for debate regarding its origins. It is possible that Inkwell Beach got its name from the fact that it was frequented by African-Americans beginning in the late 1800’s. The other possibility is that it was named Inkwell due to the fact that many prominent writers from Oak Bluffs went there as a way to clear their minds.

     Further south along Beach Road, running into Edgartown, is Joseph Sylvia State Beach. Originally known as State Beach the two-mile barrier beach is very popular due to its connection to the movie Jaws. The bridge which connects Oak Bluffs to Edgartown across Sengekontacket Pond is known as the Jaws Bridge due to its appearance in a famous scene in the movie. The beach was renamed after Joseph A. Sylvia in 1968. He was a member of the Massachusetts House of Representatives who was instrumental in the state’s acquisition and protection of the beach.

     The crown jewel of Oak Bluffs sits away from the beaches. The Martha’s Vineyard Camp Meeting Association Campground is home to the iconic Gingerbread Cottages. There are just over 300 cottages situated roughly in a circle around the iron Tabernacle which was built in 1879. The unique and colorful cottages draw countless visitors to the grounds which began as a religious ‘camp meeting’ site just after the Civil War. It began with tents and grew to more permanent dwellings in the form of small cottages. Earlier camp meetings were held on Cape Cod, including the first on record at Bound Brook Island in Wellfleet in 1819.

A gingerbread cottage during Grand Illumination Night

     Although any time is a good time to visit the thirty-four acres of wonderful gingerbread cottages perhaps there is no better time than Grand Illumination Night. Held on the third Wednesday evening in August annually this tradition began all the way back in 1869. It was a way to honor the visit of Massachusetts Governor William Claflin and has grown into the highlight of the summer on Martha’s Vineyard. The event is known for all of the gingerbread cottages being creatively decorated with Chinese lanterns that draws thousands of people. Earlier festivities in the evening consist of sing-alongs in the Tabernacle and a ceremonial lighting of the first lantern to kick things off. It is an unforgettable event, although it is likely for the best if you spend the night as trying to catch the last ferry off of the Vineyard is extremely difficult with thousands of onlookers crowded into the MVCMA area.

     

     There is so much to see and enjoy in Oak Bluffs that it is not possible to take it all in if you are pressed for time. Take the time to see all of the sites mentioned above, but don’t forget other gems like the Flying Horses Carousel, Sweet Life Cafe, and the one-of-a-kind Back Door Donuts.  Oak Bluffs is a vacation within a vacation on Martha’s Vineyard.

Have fun and happy traveling!

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com

My 5th book, Cape Cod Nights, is on sale at Amazon.com and through Arcadia Publishing

Links:

Steamship Authority Schedules

MVCMA.org

Martha's Vineyard Chamber of Commerce: Oak Bluffs

Back Door Donuts

In My Footsteps: Martha's Vineyard Trip 2

            The first time I visited Martha’s Vineyard in September it was much warmer and I was felling much more adventurous. I rented a bicycle and rode twenty-five miles through the streets of Oak Bluffs, Vineyard Haven, and Edgartown.  It was an amazing first act in the production of my second book, In My Footsteps: Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard. 

            However, the second trip would be different.  Being in mid-November it was not going to be bicycle weather and this would be further exacerbated by the fact that I needed to venture all the way to the western coast of the island, about twenty-miles from the ferry dock in   So I caved and decided to enlist the aid of a car to make this trip as productive as possible.

Vineyard Haven.

            A big day is better when properly fueled. I began with breakfast at the ArtCliff Diner in Vineyard Haven. It was a fabulous meal.  The diner itself is more cozy than small and was fairly crowded even in November.  Opened in 1943 ArtCliff Diner has an array of offbeat memorabilia on the walls and some unique choices on the menu.  I chose breakfast tacos which included eggs, chorizo, salsa and avocado.  I would need several more trips to fully get a taste of what this popular spot has to offer.  

            After eating it was time to set off to the west coast of the Vineyard.  There I would find one of the most impressive sights I’ve seen in all of my traveling, and also one of the most fragile.  In the town of Aquinnah sits Gay Head Lighthouse and the appropriately named Aquinnah Cliffs.  The cliffs are spectacular, 150-feet of sediment and clay from six different glaciers.  They are severely endangered though due to people climbing on them and removing clay from the cliffs.  From the overlook at the top of Aquinnah Circle it is hard to grasp just how immense the cliffs are, it is awe-inspiring. The cliffs are a sacred spot to the local Wampanoag Tribe.

            Perched precariously close to the edge of the cliffs sits the brick Gay Head Lighthouse, it is another Vineyard treasure.  It was originally built in 1799 of brick made from the clay of the neighboring cliffs.  The current structure stands fifty-two feet tall and was built in 1855.  It is very obvious that this lighthouse needs to be moved or it will soon topple into the ocean.  There is maybe fifty-feet of land between Gay Head Light and the cliffs, it seems like a lot of room but locals know that a few large storms can quickly eliminate much of that land.  I could feel the fragility of the lighthouse and surrounding land while taking in the atmosphere.  The fact that someday it might be gone made me appreciate the fact that I was able to stand there.

Gay Head Light and Aquinnah Cliffs

            After leaving Gay Head Light and the Aquinnah Cliffs behind it was off to another spot famous for a totally different reason.  The fishing village of Menemsha may not sound familiar to many even though it was established in 1694.  However once you pop in a copy of the movie Jaws you will connect the dots.  A good amount of the all-time classic movie was filmed in Menemsha.  The old fishing shacks and charter boats dotting the harbor can immediately make you feel like you’re a part of a real life movie, maybe even hearing a few notes of the infamous Jaws ‘theme music.’  This is a location where this is not a specific destination to go to, for me it was more of the atmosphere again.  I enjoyed just walking around  It is also home to possibly the best sunsets on the island.  I was not able to stick around for that due to needing to catch the ferry home but I will be sure to witness it for myself sometime.

Fishing shacks in Menemsha

nd the docks and fishing shacks and soaking it in.

            On South Road in the neighboring town of Chilmark is the final resting place of a Hollywood Icon, John Belushi.  Though his career was short he left a huge impact on the world of comedy for sure.  He died in 1982 and was buried at Abel’s Hill Cemetery that much is certain. After that it’s up for speculation.  The story is that within a year of his death his wife Judy had his body dug up and moved to a different location in the cemetery due to people desecrating the grave.  His actual tombstone was also moved to the cemetery gates, this makes it quite easy to find.  So the tombstone is the real deal but it is not where John Belushi is actually buried, that spot is probably only known by a select few.  I paid my respects to one of my personal favorites before heading back toward the ferry.

            The last spot I needed to see on my second Vineyard trip was one I missed the first time. In Oak Bluffs there are the famous ‘gingerbread houses’ of Wesleyan Grove.  It is also known as the Martha’s Vineyard Campmeeting Association (MVCMA).  Whatever the name one thing is for sure, these cottages are like stepping into a fairy tale.  The colors and architecture set off all sorts of senses and visions words will not do justice to.  The 300-plus cottages were built just after the Civil War on thirty-four acres of land as a Methodist summer camp.  The cottages were built around a central church tabernacle.  Today many of the cottages are available to rent through the MVCMA.  Wesleyan Grove has inspired some imitations with gingerbread-style cottages in places like Ocean Park, Maine and Ocean Grove, New Jersey.  I was enthralled with this location and found myself taking photos of literally every single cottage.  I highly recommend taking some time to walk the grounds and daydream a little.

            My second trip to Martha’s Vineyard was a little colder with less daylight but every bit as fun and exciting as the first.  The western side of the island is a little more remote and quiet but has some spectacular sites like Gay Head Light and the Aquinnah Cliffs. 

A few of the gingerbread cottages.

One needs to spend some time wandering around Menemsha and later on Wesleyan Grove in Oak Bluffs, take your time and soak in the atmosphere you won’t be disappointed.  I am already planning a third trip back to the island and can’t wait to see what that has in store for me.  Have fun and happy traveling!

     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, and stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter and YouTube for more on In My Footsteps!

Directions:  Gay Head Light/Aquinnah Cliffs:  From the Vineyard Haven ferry take State Rd. for 5.5 miles, slight right onto N. Rd., follow it 5.7 miles. Turn left onto Menemsha Xrd, follow 1 mile, turn right onto State Rd., follow it 6 miles, and continue onto Aquinnah Circle to destination.

            John Belushi’s Grave:  From the ferry take State Rd., continue onto S. Rd, and follow it 2.6 miles to destination on right. The grave is located near entrance, can’t miss it.

            Wesleyan Grove:  From ferry head south on Beach Rd., follow 1.3 miles, slight right onto Eastville Rd., slight left onto Temahigan Ave., continue onto New York Ave., follow 1 mile, turn left onto Siloam Ave, follow it into MVCMA.

References:  Gay Head Light.org

            MVCMA.com

            Steamship Authority.com

            Martha's Vineyard Chamber of Commerce

           

Vineyard Haven on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: The First Martha's Vineyard Trip

            First let me start by saying, yes I am a lifelong Cape Codder.  My family dates back to Deacon John Doane who helped settle the town of Eastham in 1644.  I am proud of my long history on this peninsula. Now, that being said, I will admit that I had never once been to either island of Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket, until now.

            I had decided that with all of the trips I had taken across New England it was about time that I visit a spot so close by but which seemed so far away.  By ferry Martha’s Vineyard is only a forty-five minute ride, the island is easily visible from the shores of Woods Hole, Falmouth, and Mashpee.

Ocean Park in Oak Bluffs

            The 100-square-mile Vineyard is purported to be named after the daughter of English explorer Bartholomew Gosnold who died in infancy.  He first sailed to the island in 1602.  There is a very long and rich history there and I wanted to make sure that I saw as much of it as I could upon arrival.  The ferry docked at Oak Bluffs and I found my first place to visit stretched out before me along the shore. 

            Ocean Park, situated right along Seaview Avenue, is seven acres of wide open space surrounded by beautiful homes.  Near the center of the park is a bandstand gazebo and it is the site of the annual Fourth of July fireworks in Oak Bluffs.  I enjoyed the man-made pond with a small fountain as it was inhabited by man geese which did not mind posing for pictures.  It would have been easy on a warm early-autumn day to sit back and enjoy more time at Ocean Park but I knew I only had a set number of hours on The Vineyard and needed to keep moving.

            Since bringing a car over on the ferry is a little pricy ($137 Round-Trip for a small car), I decided to rent a bicycle for the day.  Before I went I had chosen Anderson’s Bikes due to its low prices and the fact that they had been around since 1971 with the same family running it.  I was not disappointed with the hybrid street bike from Fuji I rented.  It reminded me of a spin class bike, a great ride.  Since it was technically my first time on the island I let the woman there give me her

East Chop Light

whole speech about what to see around the area.  I even got a map just like a real tourist.

            Once equipped with a bike I used the gps on my phone to set out to my next destination.  As many of you know I am a huge fan of lighthouses, love them, so it was only natural that my first trip to Martha’s Vineyard would include as many lighthouses as time would allow.  First up was East Chop Lighthouse.

            Located on East Chop Drive in Oak Bluffs the lighthouse was not difficult to find.  The ride out to it was spectacular as being on a bike made it possible to really soak in the atmosphere of the small island town.  East Chop Light sits inside a picket fence on a small plot of land overlooking the ocean, passing ferries and Cape Cod in the distance.  It was deserted when I arrived and it allowed me the chance to take many photos and also simply enjoy laying eyes on this landmark for the first time.  The current East Chop Light is the third built on the site with the original being built in 1869. The current tower was erected in 1878.  The view is amazing and worth spending some time there.

            Of course I had to follow up East Chop Light with the corresponding West Chop Light over in Vineyard Haven.  The ride there was just as much fun as the lighthouse itself.  The route leads you down along Vineyard Haven Harbor.  This is the port where the ferries come in year-round, the port in Oak Bluffs is only seasonal.  There are many beautiful little side roads along the shore, some of which I saw up close when I could not hear my gps and became temporarily lost.

            There are a

West Chop Light

few differences between East and West Chop Light, the main one being that West Chop is on Coast Guard property and thus not able to be seen too closely.  The original West Chop Light was built in 1817, and the current tower, like East Chop, is the third built on the site. The current lighthouse was erected in 1891.  Despite being fifty-feet behind a picket fence it is still worth the ride to see this lighthouse, the ride out itself is just as good as I mentioned.    

            After seeing East and West Chop I decided the only way to continue on The Vineyard was to hop on the Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road bike trail and ride down to see Edgartown Lighthouse on the harbor.  When traveling on a bicycle you notice how hilly The Vineyard is away from the shore, it was a bit of a chore but great exercise getting down to Edgartown. 

            Many spots in Edgartown were featured in the movie Jaws and the entire town is beautiful with a special feel to it as soon as you arrive.  One particular spot

Old Whaling Church, Main St. Edgartown

that captures that feel is the ground of the Vincent House Museum.  The house itself is the oldest residence on the island, built in 1672.  The house is believed to have been built by William Vincent who was one of the early settlers of Edgartown’s Great Harbor area.  The Martha’s Vineyard Historical Preservation Society gained the house in 1977 and moved it from Great Pond in Edgartown to its current location.  It shares the ground with a pair of other historical sites that add to the special feel of this area.

            The Old Whaling Church was designed by Frederick Baylies and built by whaling captains in 1843.  It is an impressive site towering above Main Street with its beautiful columns. It has now been transformed into a performing arts center and is very popular for weddings.  The church coupled with the narrow street, quaint homes, and white picket fences made me want to simply sit on a bench and watch the world go by.  It seems like much of Martha’s Vineyard has that same sort of feel to it.   

            Not far from this stretch of historical sites is Edgartown Lighthouse.  By the time I had gotten to this point my legs were very tired but there was no way I wasn’t going to walk out to where the lighthouse was on the water.  It is within sight of Chappaquiddick with the ferries making the very short trip back and forth.  Ironically the original Edgartown Lighthouse was destroyed in the Hurricane of 1938 and when it came time for it to be replaced it was Rear Range Lighthouse from Ipswich, Massachusetts that was loaded on a barge and brought down to the harbor entrance

Edgartown Light

.  That fact made the experience even more special and unique. 

Though the amazing Harbor View Hotel is nearby it felt as though Edgartown Lighthouse was in its own world; the lapping ocean waves drown out all sounds but for a few stray boat horns.  I sat on the steps of the lighthouse to enjoy the atmosphere for a while.  My first trip to Martha’s Vineyard had been a huge success and would not be my last for sure.

My ride back to Oak Bluffs took place along the Edgartown-Oak Bluffs Road bike path.  Much of this ride gives you spectacular views of the surrounding water along the Joseph Sylvia State Beach.  It was a fantastic end to a trip that was a long time coming.  I passed by Ocean Park near sunset, coming full circle from where I had begun my day.  Now I can say yes I have been to Martha’s Vineyard, and plan on going back as soon as I possibly can.  I am sure I don’t have to suggest that all of you do the same.  Have fun and happy traveling!

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, Barnes&Noble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions: East Chop Lighthouse:  From the ferry port go straight on Lake Avenue, take the 1^st right onto East Chop Drive, follow it 1.1 miles to lighthouse on the right.

                    West Chop Lighthouse:  From the ferry go straight on Lake Avenue, continue onto New York Avenue, follow it for a mile, take a slight left onto Temahigan Avenue, follow it .3 miles, take a slight right onto Eastville Avenue.  Continue straight onto Beach Road, follow it 1.4 miles, turn right onto Main Street, follow it 2 miles to lighthouse on right.

                    Edgartown Lighthouse:  From the ferry go left onto Seaview Avenue, follow it 1.1 miles, continue onto Beach Road, follow it 2.8 miles, keep right to stay on Beach Road, follow 1.1 more miles.  Continue onto Upper Main Street, continue onto Main Street, follow this .3 miles, turn right onto N Water Street, follow .4 miles, lighthouse is on right.

References:  Steamship Authority

            Anderson's Bike Rentals

            Martha's Vineyard Chamber of Commerce

Oak Bluffs on Dwellable