In My Footsteps: Hiking Cape Cod

With spring and summer comes the increased desire to get out and enjoy the beautiful weather. Living on Cape Cod there is no shortage of places to see and explore. Hiking is a fantastic way to get out into nature, get some exercise, and explore the great outdoors. However, hiking can also be dangerous if you're not prepared or don't take the necessary precautions.

What I am going to do here is share some amazing places to go exploring on Cape Cod and also give some tips on how to enjoy hiking outdoors safely.

1. Plan your route: Before you start your hike, it's essential to plan your route. Luckily Cape Cod is a peninsula and the odds of getting lost in somewhere truly inhospitable are small. However, it is important to have a general sense of where you are and where you are going. Doing a little research won’t hurt. Choose a trail that is suitable for your fitness level and experience. For the most part, Cape Cod is a series of beginner to moderate hiking trails.

2. Bring the right gear: This is a given. Make sure you have appropriate footwear that provides good support and traction. Wear comfortable clothing that is appropriate for the weather conditions. If the hike is long enough bring a backpack with essential items such as water, snacks, sunscreen, a hat, and maybe a first aid kit. There are plenty of short hikes on Cape Cod, but there are also some that can be up to ten miles or longer.

3. Check the weather forecast: This is true for any time of year. Hiking is fun, but hiking in the pouring rain, wind, or snow is not. That’s not to say that some inclement weather can’t make for a fun adventure. The main point is to think ahead. A little drizzle or hot temperatures might not ruin a hike, but a downpour can change the complexion of a trail turning packed dirt to slippery muck.

4. Hike with a buddy: It's always a good idea to hike with a buddy or a group of people. Not only is it more fun to hike with others, but it's also safer. If you get lost or injured, you'll have someone there to help you.

5. Stay on the trail: When hiking, always stay on the trail. Don't wander off the path, as you can damage the environment and get lost. There is also a prevalence of ticks that can cause Lyme Disease. Most trails are crafted to make sure you get the best experience so diverting from it shouldn’t be necessary.

6. Pace yourself: Hiking can be physically demanding. Don't push yourself too hard and listen to your body. If you feel tired or lightheaded, take a break and have a snack or drink some water. It also gives you ample time to take in the scenery and even snag a couple amazing photos.

7. Respect wildlife: Remember when hiking, you’re in nature’s house. Keep your distance from animals and don't disturb their natural habitat. Don't feed animals or leave food out, as this can attract wildlife and create dangerous situations.

8. Leave no trace: This is most important. Don't leave anything behind, and don't damage the environment by carving your name into trees or rocks. Take out what you take in. We only have one environment and it is important to leave its beauty for future generations.

     That’s a pretty comprehensive list, but it’s all common sense stuff. Be smart, be respectful, and be prepared. Now that you know how to properly enjoy a good hike on Cape Cod it’s time to share a few places to implement the tips. They will also be designated as easy, moderate, or difficult so that all experience levels can find somewhere incredible to visit.

1. Great Island Trail: Wellfleet – Moderate: This trail can be easy or moderate depending on the path you take. It is anywhere from 3.9 – 8.8 miles in total length. There are spectacular views of Cape Cod Bay and Jeremy Point. The uplands take you past the 17^th Century Samuel Smith Tavern Site.

Great Island Trail

2. Nauset Marsh Trail: Eastham – Easy/Moderate: This trail can be easy or moderate as well. There is a marsh loop trail that is 1.2 total miles but for more of a challenge you can add in the Nauset Bike Trail to bump the total distance up to 4.1 miles. You circle Salt Pond and can venture out to Salt Pond Bay. The bike trail leads you all the way out to the iconic Coast Guard Beach as well.

Nauset Marsh Trail

3. Long Point Lighthouse Trail: Provincetown – Moderate: One of the most visible yet least traversed trails on Cape Cod. The approximately 5.9 total mile hike begins with a somewhat challenging walk across Provincetown’s West End Breakwater. It continues with a sandy stroll out onto Long Point to the eponymously named lighthouse. The views of Provincetown’s waterfront along with the boats that dock on Long Point make this a wonderful way to spend a day.

Long Point Lighthouse

4. Waquoit Bay Trail: Mashpee – Easy: A beautiful out-and-back walk along South Cape Beach leads you from the parking area to the shores of Waquoit Bay. At a little over 2 miles, it is a relatively easy hike although some soft sand can slow your progress down at times.

South Cape Beach State Park

Wing Island Trail: Brewster – Easy: Be sure to keep an eye on the tides before you go. Once the timing is right though this is an easy hike with a panoramic view of Cape Cod Bay at the end. It can be anywhere from 1.5 miles to slightly longer depending on how much of the beach you choose to explore.

Wing Island Trail

    These are but a few of the incredible hikes on Cape Cod. There are so many hidden gems, not to mention more than one hundred miles of paved bike trails. Whether you choose to explore one of the mentioned trails, or you choose your own adventure, be sure to have fun and be safe!

In My Footsteps: When A Smell Sparks Up Nostalgia

    

    Have you ever had a certain scent stir up intense memories? I’ve had a lot of recent experiences, especially during the warmer months. It centers around pine. Pine trees, pine needles, maybe the sap, I don’t know, but it’s strong. It happened again today while I was walking from my car into a client’s house which led me to write this. The smell of the pine needles strewn across the ground, coupled with the dry, late-summer air made a perfect potpourri. So much so that I had to stop and take a moment to acknowledge the memories and emotion that was brought to the surface.

    Whether on a forest trail or a bike trail the past comes softly calling. It always sends me back to the same place, the same time. Age sixteen, 1994. Why is that? It’s easy yet complicated.

    1994 was likely the last time that I felt the warmth of innocence. I was a sophomore in high school, still living in the neighborhood that had molded my childhood like fresh clay. It was a time when the world was still there to be conquered, but there was no rush to make concrete plans. I had dreams, to be a writer, filmmaker, something that gave my creative spirit joy. But there was time.

The old tracks filled with pine trees.(2009)

    1994 was a time in life when everybody was still here. I had never experienced loss. I didn’t know the deep and permanent scars that can be left in your heart when you lose someone, whether just from your life or from this earth entirely. I sit back now and think about all that I didn’t know about the world and I wish I could go back there. I think about things I didn’t know about people, places, and things, and wish I could go back there.

    1994 was an innocent time. School was relatively easy albeit time-consuming. Life was cluttered with amazing friends. It was filled with fun times when fun times were so simple and basic and the worries were not real worries. Did I finish my homework? Does that girl like me? Do I have enough money to buy anything good at the corner store?

    I was lucky enough to live in an area that allowed me to walk through quiet streets, through some secluded wooded pathways, and to a tiny strip mall where my friends and I would buy soda, chips, and candy.

Quiet streets to walk.

    There were abandoned railroad tracks and sandy paths running under rows of power lines. We’d walk the tracks, or sneak onto the nearby golf course. I’d feel like I was on an adventure but never felt worried or threatened by life. The world was happy. The world was safe. Along those railroad tracks, along those sandy paths, along the golf course were untold numbers of pine trees, big and tall, or short and stubby. The joy I felt in those times, on those adventures, and in life in general, was captured and contained in the smell of the pine. While I was making those long-lasting positive memories the scent of the pine seeped into my subconscious.

    I didn’t notice it much until the last few years. Ironically they have been filled with loss and instability. The world doesn’t feel happy. The world doesn’t feel safe. I’ve lost countless family members and friends. I’ve faced adult choices and adult demons that make me long for the time-consuming school days of 1994.

    It feels like in the last few years the universe has known I’ve needed some peace of mind and thus the smell of the pine came to the forefront. I can be sitting at a park, walking the bike trail, or like today walking across a parking lot to someone’s house and I’ll catch a whiff. Suddenly it’s 1994 again.

    It’s 1994, I’m sixteen, and I can visit any of my grandparents whenever I want. I can pick up the phone and call friends and make plans to ‘hang.’ Or I could grab my bike and ride to someone’s house, or to the corner store, and bask in the fleeting feelings of youth. The future lay out before me like a sunny highway. Nothing seemed uncertain, nothing to fear. Dreams were larger than regret. Living the good old days we didn’t know were good yet.

    This is not an isolated experience. There are other scents that bring back other types of memories. But the pine is the most intense. It sparks a nostalgic flame that I welcome each time. It’s as if the scent of the pine was a fine wine I gathered back then to break out on special occasions.

    Sit back and think. What scents take your mind somewhere? Why do you think that is the case? If you’re wondering how something like memory-inducing scents happen check out this article.

Why Smells Trigger Such Vivid Memories - Discovery.com

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Previous Blog Posts:

Cape Cod History - Dorsie's Steak House, West Yarmouth MA

Searching for the Lady of the Dunes

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com

Zazzle Store: Cape Cod Living

Cape Cod's Most Beautiful Routes to Explore

2020 is currently perhaps the craziest time any of us will see in our lifetimes.  Quarantine is the norm and social distancing highly recommended.  However it is also recommended that people get outside somehow and get a daily dose of Vitamin D.  Those of us lucky enough to live on Cape Cod are close to endless possibilities to see beautiful sites in the sun.

This article will help you stay active and see the sites of one of the most unique places on earth while also keeping with the current new normal of the world during the pandemic.  You can choose to run, walk, bicycle, there is no right or wrong as long as you are moving. These are in no particular order but they all give you a glimpse into the heart and soul of Cape Cod.

Cape Cod Canal: This is an easy, paved bike trail which runs along the Canal and underneath two of the three bridges. Parking is free at the Railroad Bridge. The entirety of the bike path is between seven and eight miles. It is roughly five miles to make it from the railroad bridge to the Sagamore Bridge, ten miles round trip.

Looking toward the railroad bridge along the Cape Cod Canal.

Chatham Shore: For the active Cape Codder the shore route is a way to see many highlights of the quaint fishing village of Chatham. Parking is free on Cow Yard Lane which faces the North Beach Island cottages. The route takes you along Shore Rd. and past the legendary Chatham Bars Inn and Hydrangea House. Along the way you pass Chatham Lighthouse and head out to Morris Island. The route is between six and seven miles round trip.

Chatham Lighthouse

Province Lands Bike Trail: Nestled in the dunes of Provincetown this is an authentic look at untouched Cape Cod beauty. The bike trail follows the dunes rather than cutting through them. The loop from Herring Cove Beach, past Race Point Beach and back is filled with an almost infinite number of breathtaking sites. The route is anywhere from 5 ½ to 7 miles depending on how far you want to go.

A view of the ocean from the Province Lands Bike Trail

Osterville: Keeping with coastal scenery this route brings you from one of the most popular Cape beaches, Craigville, into rural Osterville. It begins at Craigville Beach and carries you away from the ocean to South Main Street.  Near Bumps River, you turn onto Starboard Lane with its numerous beautiful homes and secluded feel and follow to where it meets Old Mill Rd. This route is 6 miles round trip.

Yarmouth Beaches: Beautiful homes along the water? Check. Historic sites? Check. Several scenic beaches? Check. All that’s left is to take to the road to enjoy them all. Pleasant Street is where the route begins; you pass by beautiful homes along a shady portion of River Street before passing by the historic Judah Baker Windmill. After this you are just seconds from the ocean meaning anytime along the route you can cool off in the saltwater. Once you see Red Jacket Resort it’s time to turn and go back. This route is 6 miles.

The jetty at Smuggler's Beach

Cape Cod Rail Trail: Stretching from Dennis all the way into Wellfleet, with an offshoot into Chatham, the Rail Trail is nearly 30 miles of paved, scenic majesty. It is a bit much to do all of those miles but there is a great section that gives one a good idea of what the trail is all about. Starting at Headwaters Drive off of Rt. 124 in Harwich you head east across a cranberry bog, past several ponds and to the entrance of Nickerson State Park. This route is 12 miles round trip.

Sunset at Seymour Pond in Harwich

Nickerson State Park: Loaded with kettle ponds and campsites Nickerson is a virtual haven for active Cape Codders. The bike trail weaves along the main park roads but also has many offshoot trails that lead you into some of the park’s nooks and crannies. The main attractions of Nickerson are never more than a quick ride or run from the trail. The bike trail is 8 miles total.

Big Cliff Pond at Nickerson

Falmouth & Woods Hole: One of the science community's most well known spots coupled with sweeping panoramic views of Martha’s Vineyard make this a worthwhile jaunt. The Shining Sea Bikeway intersects at a few places but the route leads from Surf Drive Beach along the shore past Nobska Lighthouse and down to Water Street in Woods Hole. This route is 9 miles round trip.

Nobska Lighthouse

Coast To Coast: Going from coast to coast on the Cape can be long, like from Sandwich south to Mashpee, or short like near Pilgrim Lake in Truro. Going from Cape Cod Bay to the Atlantic Ocean in Wellfleet is close but just far enough to make it worthwhile. Parking at Mayo Beach is best. The route takes you on Long Pond Road over Rt. 6 and down to The Beachcomber on Cahoon Hollow Beach, then head back. This route is 7 miles round trip.

Mayo Beach

The Least Known Island: In Mashpee there is Monomoscoy Island tucked away from the ocean along Waquoit Bay. South Cape Beach State Park is a perfect starting point for this trip. Head away from the water and down Red Brook Road and down across a causeway. The island is a mix of old cottages and newer lush homes. This finger of land has tremendous water views on either side as you get toward the tip. It is a hidden gem that is better appreciated outside of a car. This route is 11 miles round trip.

The entrance to Monomoscoy

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View my previous blog posts: In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Deacon John Doane

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - The Man Behind the Long Point Cross                         

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Travel Tuesday #4 - Chatham Lighthouse Beach Sunrise

     The fourth installment of Travel Tuesday gets up early in the morning to capture the sunrise in Chatham. The spot chosen here is Lighthouse Beach due to Chatham Lighthouse standing stoically across the parking lot.

     This photo was taken in September 2014 at that time of year the sunrise in Chatham ranges between 6:06am at the beginning of the month to 6:36am at the end of the month. Though this was from September the sunrise is exquisite from Lighthouse Beach all year round. The best part of this photo is that you can stay in your car and wait in the warmth for nature to do its job. If it is warmer you can walk out on to the beach and get similar spectacular shots. Lighthouse Beach itself was partially a creation of the break in North Beach in 1987. A powerful Nor’easter broke through the barrier beach in January 1987 and by 1994 South Beach had curled in and attached to the mainland leading to a new stretch of beach lying in front of the lighthouse and parking lot.

     The one caveat to this photo is the fishing boat passing underneath the rising sun. Just over a mile north of Lighthouse Beach is the Chatham Fish Pier where the countless boats depart and return almost daily. It is mainly just a matter of timing to capture a departing boat passing under the rising sun. You could have several chances to replicate this photo as boats during the morning stream past the beach. As of 2017 it was noted that 87 fishing boats used the Chatham Fish Pier so there is ample opportunity.

Find Prints of This Photo at Smug Mug: Christopher Setterlund - Smug Mug/Cape Cod Sunrises and Sunsets

Where to go to take this photo: Lighthouse Beach is located on Main Street in Chatham. There is a small parking area directly in front of Chatham Light.

In My Footsteps: Oak Bluffs, Massachusetts

     The northeast corner of the island of Martha’s Vineyard is home to a town that combines the plentiful ocean views with spectacular attractions and history. Here is a little taste of Oak Bluffs.

     

     The town of Oak Bluffs was originally incorporated in 1880 and known as Cottage City based on the fact that it was mainly a seasonal village in the beginning. As it became more of a year-round place to live the name was changed to Oak Bluffs in 1907. The town covers 7.37-square miles and is stocked full of incredible restaurants, shops, historical sites, beaches, and natural beauty.

     The ferry is the most common way to traverse across Vineyard Sound to the island, although it is also possible to fly. The Steamship Authority runs ferries from Woods Hole to Vineyard Haven year round. They also run ferries directly into Oak Bluffs from mid-May through late-October. These ferries take approximately forty-five minutes and are quick and safe.

     The approach to Oak Bluffs is dotted with anchored boats and other vessels passing by as you head in toward an island which feels like Cape Cod yet not. The ferry terminal faces Seaview Avenue and Oak Bluffs Avenue while giving you a feast for the eyes as far as sights go. Directly to the north of the terminal is the Oak Bluffs Fishing Pier. Stretching just over 300-feet out into the ocean this pier was first opened in June 2014 and cost $1 million. It is a tremendous spot to watch the passing boats, take in the sea breezes and salt air, or of course fish.

The Ocean Park bandstand

     Before even stepping on to dry land your eyes are drawn to Ocean Park and its historic bandstand. Surrounded by Victorian homes this green open space is routinely filled with people. One of the homes facing the park, the Tucker House, is famous for having President Ulysses S. Grant there in 1874 to watch fireworks from the roof of the home. The annual summer fireworks held in August draw upwards of 5,000 people in and around the park.

     Whether you travel north or south from the ferry docks there are great recreation opportunities. There are many ways to get around if you don’t bring your own transportation from the Vineyard Transit Authority buses to stopping at Anderson’s Bike Rentals in season on Circuit Avenue Extension.

     To the north you pass around Oak Bluffs Harbor which is filled with boats coming and going. Turn right off Lake Avenue onto East Chop Drive and head out to East Chop Lighthouse situated on Telegraph Hill. The route out to East Chop Light has changed in the last year or so. In April 2018 it was announced that a particularly vulnerable section of the roadway would be closed to vehicle traffic, although still open to pedestrians and bicycles. The 2,000-foot gap in the road between Brewster Avenue and Munroe Avenue are still closed as of September 2019 due to the severely eroding bluffs. A plan is ready to help stabilize the bluff, however the town still needs much of the funding to enact it.

East Chop Lighthouse

     

     The current East Chop Lighthouse is the third structure at the site having been erected in 1878 and stands forty-feet tall. Ironically the previous East Chop Light, which was built as part of a home, still stands on the corner of East Chop Drive and Sandy Bluff Lane a few hundred yards east, although greatly altered so one would never know it used to be a lighthouse. East Chop Lighthouse has beautiful views of Vineyard Sound and Falmouth in the distance and the entrance way through a turnstile surrounded by white picket fence is sublime.

     When venturing south from the Steamship Authority docks it is a tale of spectacular beaches. It begins only a few hundred yards south with Inkwell Beach. This small stretch of beach bordered by a pair of jetties sitting adjacent from Waban Park has a name that has been up for debate regarding its origins. It is possible that Inkwell Beach got its name from the fact that it was frequented by African-Americans beginning in the late 1800’s. The other possibility is that it was named Inkwell due to the fact that many prominent writers from Oak Bluffs went there as a way to clear their minds.

     Further south along Beach Road, running into Edgartown, is Joseph Sylvia State Beach. Originally known as State Beach the two-mile barrier beach is very popular due to its connection to the movie Jaws. The bridge which connects Oak Bluffs to Edgartown across Sengekontacket Pond is known as the Jaws Bridge due to its appearance in a famous scene in the movie. The beach was renamed after Joseph A. Sylvia in 1968. He was a member of the Massachusetts House of Representatives who was instrumental in the state’s acquisition and protection of the beach.

     The crown jewel of Oak Bluffs sits away from the beaches. The Martha’s Vineyard Camp Meeting Association Campground is home to the iconic Gingerbread Cottages. There are just over 300 cottages situated roughly in a circle around the iron Tabernacle which was built in 1879. The unique and colorful cottages draw countless visitors to the grounds which began as a religious ‘camp meeting’ site just after the Civil War. It began with tents and grew to more permanent dwellings in the form of small cottages. Earlier camp meetings were held on Cape Cod, including the first on record at Bound Brook Island in Wellfleet in 1819.

A gingerbread cottage during Grand Illumination Night

     Although any time is a good time to visit the thirty-four acres of wonderful gingerbread cottages perhaps there is no better time than Grand Illumination Night. Held on the third Wednesday evening in August annually this tradition began all the way back in 1869. It was a way to honor the visit of Massachusetts Governor William Claflin and has grown into the highlight of the summer on Martha’s Vineyard. The event is known for all of the gingerbread cottages being creatively decorated with Chinese lanterns that draws thousands of people. Earlier festivities in the evening consist of sing-alongs in the Tabernacle and a ceremonial lighting of the first lantern to kick things off. It is an unforgettable event, although it is likely for the best if you spend the night as trying to catch the last ferry off of the Vineyard is extremely difficult with thousands of onlookers crowded into the MVCMA area.

     

     There is so much to see and enjoy in Oak Bluffs that it is not possible to take it all in if you are pressed for time. Take the time to see all of the sites mentioned above, but don’t forget other gems like the Flying Horses Carousel, Sweet Life Cafe, and the one-of-a-kind Back Door Donuts.  Oak Bluffs is a vacation within a vacation on Martha’s Vineyard.

Have fun and happy traveling!

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com

My 5th book, Cape Cod Nights, is on sale at Amazon.com and through Arcadia Publishing

Links:

Steamship Authority Schedules

MVCMA.org

Martha's Vineyard Chamber of Commerce: Oak Bluffs

Back Door Donuts