The blog of In My Footsteps Podcast host and author Christopher Setterlund. It contains a buffet of topics. The wackiness of daily life with Initial Impressions 2.0. There is a link to the weekly In My Footsteps Podcast. Poetry collections, life topics, some history, and more. There is something for everyone here much like with the podcast.
Showing posts with label narragansett. Show all posts
Showing posts with label narragansett. Show all posts
Saturday, October 8, 2022
Thursday, June 3, 2021
Monday, May 31, 2010
In My Footsteps: Trip 49: Narragansett, RI
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In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 49: Narragansett, RI
May 13, 2010
There is something about a beautiful drive along the coast that makes a perfect trip. To accomplish this all one has to do is find the nearest ocean and go. However, there are a few places that I have been to thus far that take the ‘drive along the coast’ and turn it into a breathtaking scene that I hoped would never end. Narragansett, Rhode Island is one such place. Anybody who has been there knows just what I am talking about, but for those who may have never experienced it I will try my best to do this incredible coastal wonderland justice.
The Narragansett name itself comes from the tribe of Native Americans which lived on the land when it was first settled by Europeans in 1635. Their name translated means ‘people at/of the small, narrow point.’ The Narragansett tribe absorbed members from other tribes during King Philip’s War to keep a Native American identity and they are still a recognized tribe to this day with some 2,400 members.
Although not the official entrance into Narragansett, Ocean Road is definitely the place to begin any trip here. The Towers(left) is the most famous landmark in Narragansett and it acts as a gateway into the historic district of the town. What remains of the old Narragansett Pier Casino makes up The Towers; it is a beautiful archway stretching over the road. The Casino was the center of social life during the late 19th century in Narragansett and rivaled the popularity of Newport’s Casino until it burned down in 1900.
Built in 1883 the Narragansett Pier Casino burned during the Great Fire of 1900 in which the neighboring Rockingham Hotel burned and quickly caught the Casino on fire. All that remained was the granite structure that made up The Towers. It is an amazing site; there is a beautiful fountain just to the right as you approach the archway. On the left as you approach is the ocean and the very popular Narragansett Beach. It was filled with surfers on this day as is the norm; I had to make it a point to stop and watch since I have no talent for surfing as it is. I spent a while just enjoying the scenery in the area surrounding The Towers but there is much more to see in Narragansett.
The Ocean Road Historic District is filled with incredible homes dating back more than a hundred years including the Dunmere house. Built in 1883 this home sits on three and a half acres and has an amazing view of the Atlantic Ocean. There are remnants of a fishing pier where the original owner, Robert Graham Dun, entertained the likes of the Vanderbilt family and President Grover Cleveland.
Running parallel to Ocean Road for a bit is Gibson Avenue, these two roads help to create a border of the Earlescourt Historic District. Gibson Avenue features the Druidsdream house. Built in 1884 for Joseph Peace Hazard who named it Druidsdream due to his interest in the druids which are adherents of an ancient Celtic religion the home currently is maintained as a bed and breakfast. It is also open periodically for tours, by current owner Nancy Richards, of its eleven bedrooms and seven bathrooms as well as eleven fireplaces. The Earlescourt Historic District, if you approach from the west, has a large stone tower standing guard as you drive down Earles Court. Having Scargo Tower nearby I felt the need to stop and enjoy what many locals probably pass by without batting an eyelash.
Further down Ocean Road I found Scarborough State Beach(above) which to me seemed like a slice of California. For one, it is about a mile long, running along the road. It is separated into two sections, North and South; each has its own set of showers, a pavilion, seventy-five picnic tables, boardwalk, and an observation tower. All of this makes this appear to be much more than an average beach. The array of structures running along the sand were what made me feel as though I was on the West Coast rather than in Rhode Island; it was an unexpected surprise.
At the tip of Narragansett sits Point Judith and the lighthouse(right) of the same name. It sits on the grounds of the local Coast Guard station but it is very easy to spot even from behind the chain link fence. This lighthouse might be familiar to some folks as it is currently being featured in a Marines commercial which made it cool to see up close.
The current tower was built in 1857 and made of brownstone. The actual Point Judith name origin is widely debated with some saying it was named for the mother-in-law of merchant John Hull while others say it was named for the Tribe of Judah in The Bible. Ironically when first built the lighthouse did not do a good job in keeping vessels safe, in 1855 alone sixteen vessels were destroyed or stranded off of Point Judith. The traffic passing Point Judith was greater than that entering New York Harbor into the early 20th century which is a truly remarkable fact. Although I did not get to actually lay my hands on this piece of history it was enough for me to be within sight of it. Point Judith Light was a highlight of my Narragansett trip but it was not my last stop.
I drove a little west to Galilee Port(left) where the Block Island Ferry departs. The beach located on the east side of the port is fascinating for one big reason and that is the breakwater. There is a breakwater on either side of the entrance to the port, but then more than a mile out to sea is a V-shaped breakwater which keeps the beach area very calm. I could only stare out and wonder why and how it was created. Along this shoreline sits the award-winning George’s of Galilee seafood restaurant. It was hard to miss with its adorable fish logo both on its façade and on the beach as well.
If my article has not yet tempted you to venture down to Narragansett I do not know what will. This town is chock full of both historic places and beautiful seaside sights. It may not have the same plethora of mansions like Newport but it has its share. The Towers and Point Judith Light are reason enough to make the drive down to Narragansett. I am definitely planning on paying this spot another visit and think everyone reading should do the same. I cannot recommend Narragansett enough, it is spectacular. Have fun and happy traveling!
To see a short video of my trip to Narragansett click here: YouTube - Narragansett, RI
My first book, In My Footsteps:
A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com,
BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com,
soon to be in stores everywhere! Follow me on Twitter!
Directions: The Towers: From I-195 heading west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24. Exit onto Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway, continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd. Take Rt. 138 and cross the Newport Bridge and Jamestown Bridge. Take Exit for Rt. 1A, keep right and follow signs for Narragansett. Continue to Beach St., turn left at Ocean Rd.
Scarborough State Beach: From I-195 heading west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24. Exit onto Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway, continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd. Take Rt. 138 and cross the Newport Bridge and Jamestown Bridge. Take Exit for Rt. 1A, keep right and follow signs for Narragansett. Continue to Beach St., turn left at Ocean Rd. Follow Ocean Rd. just over 3 miles, make a U-turn to enter beach lot.
Point Judith Lighthouse: From I-195 heading west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24. Exit onto Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway, continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd. Take Rt. 138 and cross the Newport Bridge and Jamestown Bridge. Take Exit for Rt. 1A, keep right and follow signs for Narragansett. Continue to Beach St., turn left at Ocean Rd. Follow Ocean Rd. which becomes Rt. 108, follow it to the end, lighthouse is straight ahead but on private property.
References: George's of Galilee
Thursday, May 27, 2010
In My Footsteps: Trip 48: South Kingstown, RI
In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 48: South Kingstown, RI
May 13, 2010
Just across the Jamestown Verrazzano bridge sits a small town that seemed to have all of the comforts of home for me. When driving around South Kingstown I got the feeling that I was on Cape Cod. The only way I can explain it was that it was like seeing the most beautiful sections of Route 6A, but stretched out to encompass the entire town. It ended up being the perfect rural area to enjoy on a warm sunny day.
For being a small town that many may not have even heard of before South Kingstown is chock full of historical sites. Chief among them is the site of the Great Swamp Fight during King Philip’s War in 1675. This was a battle between the combined colonial militia and the Narragansett tribe of Native Americans. The battle, a victory for the colonial militia, ended up being the crucial turning point which led to the defeat of the Narragansett tribe only a year later.
Normally when I travel to a town my GPS system takes me to the ‘center’ of that town, normally the Town Hall. For South Kingstown it was the same. The Town Hall is usually a beautiful structure in a scenic area and it was here. After getting my bearings I headed for the Old Washington County Jail, known today as the Pettaquamscutt Historical Society Museum(above). Located on a small shady hill the first thing I noticed about this granite structure was its colors. Besides the grey stone the building is trimmed in black and red, it is quite a sight. The original jail was built in 1792 and closed in 1956, along the left side of the building sits a stone citing the former name of Kingston, RI as ‘Little Rest’ founded in 1792. The museum contains many early-American artifacts donated by locals from their own personal ancestral collections. The rear jail cells have been restored and are open to the public.
A quick drive up the road is the Old Washington County Courthouse which looks more like a gothic cathedral than a courthouse. It is no longer used for the judicial system, that takes place at the McGrath Judicial Complex on Tower Hill Road in the Wakefield section of South Kingstown. The building is amazing and the surrounding grass holds many pieces of art which makes sense as the building now houses the Courthouse Center for the Arts at Historic Washington County Courthouse.
Although South Kingstown is a rural area it is made up of many small villages much like areas of Cape Cod. Included as part of South Kingstown are the villages of Kingston, West Kingston, Wakefield, Peace Dale, Snug Harbor, Tuckertown, East Matunuck, Matunuck, and Green Hill; it can get a bit confusing to a first time visitor.
There are many historic homes in South Kingstown that are neat to check out including the Cottrell House and Hale House. Tops on my list after paying a visit is a place just called Red House(above, left). Located on Post Road this historic home, built in 1732, is a beautiful shade of cranberry red. As with many spots in this town it is in a very quiet area. With only the sound of my idling car it made it easier to take in my surroundings.
Another historic spot in a very quiet area is the Perry-Carpenter Grist Mill(right). Built in 1703 by Samuel E. Perry the mill was originally located some 500 feet east of the current site on the south shore of Perry’s Mill Pond. It was moved to its current location along Moonstone Beach Road in 1825 with a sluiceway dug to bring pond water to the mill to allow for the grinding of Rhode Island Whitecap Flint Corn. The mill became known as Carpenter’s Grist Mill in 1874 when the Carpenter family became owners. It is still in use today and its corn is used to make Carpenter’s Rhode Island Jonnycake Meal.
Matunuck Beach Road, located on the west side of the entrance of the Block Island Ferry, is filled with hundred year old homes, not to mention the beautiful string of beaches. East Matunuck State Beach is located just to the east, easily accessible on Succotash Road. South Kingstown Town Beach is located where Matunuck Beach Road reaches the shore. I parked down at the Deep Hole fishing area(left) to allow me to take a walk along Matunuck Beach Road and enjoy the beautiful homes and sights. This spot also has a great view of Point Judith Lighthouse located in nearby Narragansett.
Much of the Matunuck village is farms; places like the Cottrell House on Waites Corner Road sit on the periphery of expansive farms. Taking these drives along the rural roads and taking in the wide open spaces made the entirety of this trip enjoyable. There are many places to see in South Kingstown but you do not need a set itinerary to get a feel for what this place is all about.
Small towns are a real treat for me as it reminds me of my home and South Kingstown is an ideal spot to spend a day or more with its many beaches and farms. There is so much history scattered all over the many villages that make up this place that it will likely take more than a day to see it all. I highly recommend taking the time to visit South Kingstown and enjoy a glimpse of so much untouched countryside so nearby. Have fun and happy traveling!
References: South Kingstown, RI Official Website
Directions: Pettaquamscutt Historical Society Museum: From I-195 heading west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24. Take Exit for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway, continue onto JT O’Connell Rd. Take 3rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., take ramp for Rt. 138, you will cross the Newport Bridge and Jamestown Bridge. Take exit for Tower Hill Road, turn right at Mooresfield Rd., this becomes Kingston Rd., museum is #2636.
Carpenter’s Grist Mill: From I-195 heading west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24. Take Exit for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway, continue onto JT O’Connell Rd. Take 3rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., take ramp for Rt. 138, you will cross the Newport Bridge and Jamestown Bridge. Take exit for Tower Hill Road, follow 14 miles, make U-Turn, take slight right at Moonstone Beach Rd. Mill is a mile up on left.
Red House: From I-195 heading west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24. Take Exit for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway, continue onto JT O’Connell Rd. Take 3rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., take ramp for Rt. 138, you will cross the Newport Bridge and Jamestown Bridge. Take exit for Tower Hill Road, follow nearly 13 miles, slight right at Rt. 110. Take 2nd left onto Post Rd., house is a half mile up on right.
Sunday, May 23, 2010
In My Footsteps: Trip 47: Jamestown, RI
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In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 47: Jamestown, RI
May 13, 2010
Perhaps known by many as a throughway connecting Newport and Narragansett, Jamestown and Conanicut Island are filled with amazing sites. The Newport Bridge brings you into Jamestown from the east and the Jamestown Verrazzano Bridge takes you to Narragansett to the west, but anybody who decides to visit either of those two incredible destinations needs to stop and give Jamestown a longer look.
The island was home for hundreds of years to the Narragansett tribe of Native Americans, at least during the warmer months. Conanicut Island is named for the Narragansett ‘sachem,’ or chief, Canonicus, who gave the English settlers permission to let their sheep graze on the island in 1638. The oldest Native American artifacts
found on the island an in the surrounding waters date back to 3,000 B.C. It is here on Conanicut Island that the largest number of Native American burying ground in New England exists.
found on the island an in the surrounding waters date back to 3,000 B.C. It is here on Conanicut Island that the largest number of Native American burying ground in New England exists.
Jamestown itself was incorporated as a town in 1678 and named for James, Duke of York who would become King James II in 1685. In addition to having strong ties to early-American and Native American history, Jamestown boasts several spectacular historic and natural landmarks that are must see attractions.
The first spot I went to was the home of the third oldest lighthouse in America: Beavertail State Park. Located on the southern tip of Conanicut Island, Beavertail State Park is more than just the home to Beavertail Light, but let’s start there. Beavertail Light(above) was originally established in 1749 but has been rebuilt a few times in the years since, most recently after the Hurricane of 1938
. It has a very unique look, a smoky-gray stone rectangle; overlooking Narragansett Bay it is an incredible site.
. It has a very unique look, a smoky-gray stone rectangle; overlooking Narragansett Bay it is an incredible site.
Beavertail State Park is not just about the lighthouse though. The shores all around the point are filled with slopes of rocks where the waves crash, while I was there I spotted many people sitting on their beach chairs perched on the rocks enjoying the sun. There are small beaches along the shore as well if you are willing to climb down the rocks to get to them.
Another great spot to visit is the site of the Jamestown Windmill. The current windmill, standing thirty-feet tall, was built in 1787 for the purpose of grinding corn. The previous mill was destroyed by British troops around the time of the Battle of Rhode Island. While it was operational it had to rely on the ocean’s breezes to power the windmill since Jamestown does not have any sort of running water to do that job. The windmill is located on North Road and is open to the public on weekends during the summer.
Fort Wetherill(right) was a strategic military location a few miles north of the southern tip of Conanicut Island. It became a government run military base named in 1899, during the Spanish-American War. It was named for Jamestown native Alexander Macom Wetherill who was killed at the Battle of San Juan Hill
. Inside the fort has been basically untouched since it was shut down in 1946. The concrete structures that are built into the granite hillside were put in place prior to World War II. Now there are trees and plants growing along the openings to the concrete structures. It is a very eerie feeling going inside and walking down the hallways littered with crumbled concrete. I found it ominous that each of the other openings down one of the hallways were blocked by growing trees.
. Inside the fort has been basically untouched since it was shut down in 1946. The concrete structures that are built into the granite hillside were put in place prior to World War II. Now there are trees and plants growing along the openings to the concrete structures. It is a very eerie feeling going inside and walking down the hallways littered with crumbled concrete. I found it ominous that each of the other openings down one of the hallways were blocked by growing trees.
The site became a state park in the early-1970’s, it is fifty-two acres of amazing scenic views. A dirt pathway takes you up a hill and lets you see the fort from above. It is fenced in and not accessible but that should not take away from the trip. From atop this hill there are no limit of sights: Narragansett Bay, Castle Hill Lighthouse in Newport, and Fort Adams which is almost directly across from Fort Wetherill. I had a great time exploring this area; the beautiful sunny day only added to my experience.
The final spot I visited during my time in Jamestown was the East Ferry Landing(right). This is the area where ferry boats came across Narragansett Bay from Newport until 1969 when the Newport Bridge was opened. The sailboats 
that are a symbol of the sea life around the Rhode Island coast were on display along Narragansett Bay stretching all the way down to the Newport Bridge. It was around this time that I felt like I was seeing the soul of Rhode Island, the boats on the water, the shops on the wharf, all images I needed to burn into my mind.
that are a symbol of the sea life around the Rhode Island coast were on display along Narragansett Bay stretching all the way down to the Newport Bridge. It was around this time that I felt like I was seeing the soul of Rhode Island, the boats on the water, the shops on the wharf, all images I needed to burn into my mind.
Though there are these sites I have listed here that should be visited it is just as good to come over either of the bridges and simply drive all over Conanicut Island. I enjoyed doing just that. It is while you take your time and explore a place like Jamestown that you really get a feel for what it is like. Being that it is less than twenty-five square miles in size it is very easy to see all of the island in a day.
Whether visiting Beavertail State Park, Fort Wetherill, Jamestown Windmill, or simply cruising the beautiful island roads you can’t go wrong. I did both and loved it all. Jamestown and Conanicut Island are one and the same, they are filled with history and house incredible views of the sea from all sides. I highly recommend taking the time to cross either the Jamestown Bridge or Newport Bridge(left) and giving some time to this beautiful island town. Have fun and happy traveling!
My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere! Follow me on Twitter!
My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere! Follow me on Twitter!
Directions: Beavertail State Park: From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway. Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West. Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., right at Canonicus Ave., Canonicus Ave. becomes Walcott Ave. Turn right at Hamilton Ave., Hamilton Ave. becomes Beavertail Rd. follow it to the park.
Fort Wetherill: From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway. Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West. Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., right at Canonicus Ave., Canonicus Ave. becomes Walcott Ave. Take slight left at Fort Wetherill Rd., take the 2nd right, turn right park will be on the left.
Jamestown Windmill: From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway. Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West. Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., left at Canonicus Ave., take 3rd right onto Bryer Ave., turn right at Prudence Lane. Prudence Lane turns left and becomes Whittier Rd., turn right at N. Rd. The windmill is .1 miles up on the right.
East Ferry Landing: From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway. Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West. Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., right at Canonicus Ave., East Ferry Landing is on the left.
References: Jamestown, RI Visitor Info
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
In My Footsteps: Trip 38: Newport, RI - The Mansions
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Although they are spread around Newport, mostly along Bellevue Avenue, the best way to enjoy them, as well as the natural beauty of the ocean is along Newport’s famed Cliff Walk. The development of the walk began all the way back in 1880 but it took more than fifty years to get the walk into serious working order. Even with the Cliff Walk’s popularity as a tourist destination there are some home owners that do not enjoy the pathway crossing through their property. All in all however the Cliff Walk has been well received by the mansion owners, many of them have helped in improving the path itself to increase its enjoyability. For the most part it is a very easy walk with sloping hills on level, paved, ground. There are a few tough spots and the drop off of the cliffs can be up to seventy-feet, so of course exercise caution while walking. 
Next up was the Marble House(left, top) which has the claim to fame of being the home that began the evolution of Newport from quiet seaside village to wealthy summer getaway. Built between 1888 and 1892 this summer home for William Vanderbilt, another grandson of the ‘Commodore’ Cornelius Vanderbilt, has more to offer than just the incredible 500,000 cubic feet of marble. In addition to the main house which cost $11 million, more than $250 million today, there is a surprising sight, a Chinese Tea House(left, bottom) that looms on the periphery of the grounds just above a tunnel which takes you underneath the Marble House property. Built in 1914 by Mrs. Alva Belmont, she divorced Vanderbilt but kept the house, after her second husband died, the Tea House was used as a rallying spot for women’s right to vote. It was an unexpected sight in the sea of marble castles to see a piece of Eastern architecture sitting amongst them.
In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 38: Newport, RI – The Mansions
March 25, 2010
The Mansions of Newport, Rhode Island, just mentioning them conjures up images of incredible architectural beauty along the streets and ocean side. They have inspiring names like The Breakers and Rosecliff. Many of them can be toured but there is so much more to the mansions than just the structures themselves. The history of these amazing homes and how they ended up being built in Newport is nearly as spectacular as the homes are.
Although they are spread around Newport, mostly along Bellevue Avenue, the best way to enjoy them, as well as the natural beauty of the ocean is along Newport’s famed Cliff Walk. The development of the walk began all the way back in 1880 but it took more than fifty years to get the walk into serious working order. Even with the Cliff Walk’s popularity as a tourist destination there are some home owners that do not enjoy the pathway crossing through their property. All in all however the Cliff Walk has been well received by the mansion owners, many of them have helped in improving the path itself to increase its enjoyability. For the most part it is a very easy walk with sloping hills on level, paved, ground. There are a few tough spots and the drop off of the cliffs can be up to seventy-feet, so of course exercise caution while walking.
Running a total of three and a half miles along the coast, the Cliff Walk begins at Memorial Boulevard but there are many entrances along the route if you don’t wish to walk the entire length. I began my journey along the Cliff Walk at the end of Narragansett Avenue which as a great view of Atlantic Beach to the north and of the land across Easton Bay.
The first buildings I saw were actually not mansions in the common term. The buildings are amazing but they are part of Salve Regina University. Ochre Court(above), which serves as the school’s administration building, is the second largest mansion in Newport behind only The Breakers(right). It was given to the school as a gift in 1947. The mansion was originally owned by wealthy New Yorker Ogden Goelet in the 1890’s. I can only imagine how it is as a student at the university with such incredible views of the ocean and spending so much time in the mansions, it must become commonplace for them.
Located right after Salve Regina is the largest and perhaps most famous of the mansions in Newport: The Breakers. As I mentioned in my first Newport article this mansion was owned by the immensely wealthy Vanderbilt family. Built between 1893 and 1895 this definition of luxury cost more than $7 million back then which when adjusted to today’s dollars ends up being over $150 million. For pure numbers The Breakers stands on thirteen acres of prime oceanside land, contains seventy rooms, and is approximately 65,000 square feet in size. It is normally a first stop for any tour of the mansions and one can see why.
For those who did not read the first Newport article Cornelius Vanderbilt II, the man for whom the mansion was built, was the grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt the patriarch of the family. At his peak the elder Vanderbilt had a net worth equivalent to more than $143 billion in today’s money. This was made from shipping and the New York Central Railroad
ventures during the mid-19th century. The Breakers is considered to be the ultimate definition of the ‘Gilded Age
,’ which is the period of great economic growth felt in the time after the Civil War up to the end of the 19th century. Even from a distance behind a fence its majesty is obvious; I had to stand and marvel at it for a while in an attempt to understand what I was seeing.
ventures during the mid-19th century. The Breakers is considered to be the ultimate definition of the ‘Gilded Age,’ which is the period of great economic growth felt in the time after the Civil War up to the end of the 19th century. Even from a distance behind a fence its majesty is obvious; I had to stand and marvel at it for a while in an attempt to understand what I was seeing.
Rosecliff(above), the mansion built for silver heiress Theresa Fair Oelrichs, sits on six and a half acres of land and is known for its red striped awning which covers the spacious back porch area. During my trip the awning was not present however. Built between 1898 and 1902, Rosecliff cost $2.5 million at the turn of the 20th century and was used for scenes in such films as The Great Gatsby
and True Lies. Mrs. Oelrich’s fortune came from her father, Irish-immigrant, James Graham Fair who made his money thanks to the Comstock Lode in Virginia City, Nevada. This was the first major discovery of silver ore in the United States in 1859. Harry Houdini 
once performed at Rosecliff as Mrs. Oelrich enjoyed throwing lavish parties featuring many of the day’s wealthiest socialites and brightest entertainers.
and True Lies. Mrs. Oelrich’s fortune came from her father, Irish-immigrant, James Graham Fair who made his money thanks to the Comstock Lode in Virginia City, Nevada. This was the first major discovery of silver ore in the United States in 1859. Harry Houdini once performed at Rosecliff as Mrs. Oelrich enjoyed throwing lavish parties featuring many of the day’s wealthiest socialites and brightest entertainers. 
Next up was the Marble House(left, top) which has the claim to fame of being the home that began the evolution of Newport from quiet seaside village to wealthy summer getaway. Built between 1888 and 1892 this summer home for William Vanderbilt, another grandson of the ‘Commodore’ Cornelius Vanderbilt, has more to offer than just the incredible 500,000 cubic feet of marble. In addition to the main house which cost $11 million, more than $250 million today, there is a surprising sight, a Chinese Tea House(left, bottom) that looms on the periphery of the grounds just above a tunnel which takes you underneath the Marble House property. Built in 1914 by Mrs. Alva Belmont, she divorced Vanderbilt but kept the house, after her second husband died, the Tea House was used as a rallying spot for women’s right to vote. It was an unexpected sight in the sea of marble castles to see a piece of Eastern architecture sitting amongst them.
The Cliff Walk in Newport is one of the most celebrated areas in New England. It is a mix of two of my favorite things, the beauty of the ocean and amazing pieces of American history. It sells itself but I highly recommend walking here, even if it is only a short walk. Whether it’s Salve Regina University, The Breakers, Rosecliff, or the Marble House with its amazing Tea House, anyone reading this needs to visit Newport and see these incredible mansions in person. Have fun and happy traveling!
My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere! Follow me on Twitter!
My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere! Follow me on Twitter!
Directions: Cliff Walk: From I-195 take Exit 8A for Rt. 24. Slight left onto Rt. 114, slight left onto Rt. 214. Rt. 214 becomes Rt. 138A, follow until a left at Bellevue Avenue. Turn right at Narragansett Avenue, follow it to the end, this is a great spot to begin Cliff Walk, Salve Regina is first of mansions.
References: Newport Mansions.org
Sunday, April 4, 2010
In My Footsteps: Trip 37: Newport, RI
In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 37: Newport, RI
March 25, 2010
My visit to the amazing town of Newport will take two articles as there is so much more to see than simply the beautiful mansions. That said, the mansions themselves will be the focus of the second article; this one deals with the entirety of Newport. This article is proof that Newport stands out as one of the greatest attractions in the country.
Newport is part of Aquidneck Island which is the largest island in the state of Rhode Island. The town was formed in 1639 when eight men left nearby Portsmouth due to fallout with pioneer settler Anne Hutchinson
. As part of the agreement the defectors received control of the southern part of the island which became Newport.It became clear to me just how rich in history Newport is as soon as I took the turn from Broadway onto Washington Square. It was as if everywhere I looked there was a piece of history staring back at me. It is actually not far from the truth. There is a 250-acre section of the center of Newport that is designated as a National Historic Landmark due to its collection of pristine colonial-era homes and buildings.
I found a lot to park in and began walking. In the middle of Washington Square sits Eisenhower Park a nice shady spot near the Old Colony House(above), or Old State House. Built in 1741 it is one of the best kept public buildings from the Colonial-era. George Washington and Dwight Eisenhower
have been guests there and it now acts as a museum and part of the larger National Historic Landmark that the center of Newport is. In the midst of Eisenhower Park stands a statue of Oliver Perry, a hero during the War of 1812 who led a decisive American Naval victory over the British at Lake Erie.
of 1765 which was a result of yet another unfair British tax on the colonies. It is open for tours during June, July, and August and is a fascinating spot even if just passing by it.The influx of wealthy people into Newport in the late-19th and early-20th centuries is not exclusive to the mansion area of Bellevue Avenue. Another example in the center of Newport is Vanderbilt Hall which is a mansion and hotel built in 1909 by Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt and dedicated to his father, Cornelius Vanderbilt
. The Vanderbilt family came to prominence during the mid-1800’s when Cornelius oversaw the building of railroad and shipping empires. Cornelius Vanderbilt, when his fortune is adjusted for inflation into current times, had a net worth of somewhere between $143-178 billion. His mansion, The Breakers, will be covered in the second Newport article.
, or that it was built by early Viking visitors. However, an archaeological investigation in 1948-49 could not date any of the artifacts it studied earlier than the 17th Century. Origin aside thisstructure is a stand alone site, the oldest building in Newport and pretty much a one of a kind.
The final place I visited in Newport was Fort Adams. Located across Newport Harbor with a breathtaking view of the Newport Bridge and Rose Island Lighthouse, Fort Adams(below) is still open to the public and the entire area is a State Park.
The Fort Adams State Park sits on land that was at one time owned by William Brenton who was governor of the Rhode Island colony from 1666-69. He called the land Hammersmith after the town in England where his family came from. In the warmer months the open grassy areas host the Newport Jazz Festival and Folk Festival. It was a great way to end a great trip to an amazing town. Newport is much more than just the storied mansions, it is rows and rows of historical homes. It is also a mysterious stone mill and a beautiful if not spooky old fort. When you have seen all of the mansions in Newport make time to view these other attractions, it adds another dimension to any Newport trip. Have fun and happy traveling!
Directions: Touro Park: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Slight left at Spring Street, turn left onto Mill St. Park is on the right.
Fort Adams State Park: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Left at Thames Street, left at America’s Cup Ave. Right onto Thames Street, right onto Wellington Ave., right at Harrison Ave., turn left to stay on Harrison, turn right to stay on Harrison. Turn right at Ft. Adams Dr., follow it to fort parking lot.
Historical Center of Town/Washington Square: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Continue onto Washington Square, there is street parking and off-street lots. Historic homes and buildings are in all directions.
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