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Showing posts with label york. Show all posts
Showing posts with label york. Show all posts

Monday, March 29, 2021

In Their Footsteps: New England History - The Cannibals of Boon Island, Maine

 

    Boon Island is a rocky chunk of dry land just over 6 1/2 acres in size. It is located more than 7 miles off the coast of York, Maine. It is extremely isolated due to its proximity yet remains quite visible due to the lighthouse that rises from the rocks. The 133-foot granite Boon Island Lighthouse towers on the horizon making the island feel much closer than it is. The current beacon was built in 1855 with the original day beacon having been erected on the island in 1799. However Boon Island has history stretching back further than the implementation of a lighthouse on its rocks. This chapter though is far darker. It is a story of an unfortunate maritime disaster wrapped up in one of the most horrific acts known to man: cannibalism.

Boon Island Light as seen from York, Maine


    The legend of the cannibalism on Boon Island began more than 3,200 miles away in London. The main players were aboard a 120-ton merchant vessel named Nottingham Galley. Captained by John Deane it set sail for Killybegs, Ireland on September 10, 1710 with a cargo of rope. After an additional cargo of butter and cheese was put aboard the vessel it set sail on September 24th for Boston, Massachusetts. It is here that the story of the Nottingham Galley becomes much more complicated. The only certainty about the next leg of the journey is where it ended.

    There are two versions most commonly looked at as far as the next leg of the journey go. The first revolves around the fact that the port of Killybegs, Ireland was known to be a hotbed for French privateers. These were essentially pirates with government papers. Sure enough there were French privateering vessels in the area. The issue was the fact that England and France were at war at the time.

Boon Island Light in 2006 (Dk69/Wikipedia)


    One version of the story goes that Captain Deane sailed the Nottingham Galley toward the privateers in the hopes of being captured. This would have allowed him to collect from the ship's large insurance policy. Or perhaps Deane was smuggling goods to the French. Whatever the circumstances ended up being the interaction between the Nottingham Galley and the privateers did not occur. However Deane's treasonous intentions during the time of war soured the crew toward their captain to the point that mutiny was on their minds as they began across the Atlantic.

    Captain Deane was rumored to be a cruel and sadistic leader of the vessel. Two particular items of note were that he beat two of his crew so badly that they were unable to work for several weeks, and that he severely cut back rations to his crew. The latter would come back to haunt him. Needless to say the crew despised Deane. It only intensified when in early December the Nottingham Galley sighted Nova Scotia, Canada.

    Held by the French, Canada was seemingly the last place a British ship would want to be. Yet Deane dawdled offshore for nearly a week as if waiting for French vessels to see him. When a ship did approach the crew assumed it to be French. Deane did not retreat at all which further intensified the hatred of his crew toward him. Luckily it turned out to be a British galley, still the optics for Deane were terrible.

A model of a 1715 Swedish Galley Ship (Johan Jonson/Stockholm Maritime Museum)


    Things came to a head on December 10, 1710 when the Nottingham Galley was caught in a storm while traveling through the Gulf Of Maine. It was so bad that the ship pulled its sails down and left it to chance. Though they could see land it was far off. In reality it was Cape Porpoise and more than ten miles away. What made it worse was that Captain Deane had taken a different course which led the ship closer to shore. Later on reports from crew would say that if they had stayed on the right course they would have arrived safely in Boston. That would not happen.

    By nightfall on December 10th the heat between Captain and crew boiled over. They questioned his poor decisions to which Deane nearly killed one crewman and threatened others with a pistol. It was apparent to the crew that he cared more for protecting his authority than protecting the ship. Not long after these altercations the ship crashed into the rocky Boon Island on December 11th, splintering the vessel into pieces.

    The crew valiantly chopped down the Nottingham Galley's mast and used it as a guide to crawl up to higher ground on the island. During the highest of storm surges it is possible for the waves to crash over the entire island, so it is unknown just how much room for error the crew had as the waited out the storm. One thing was for sure, after making it through the night the crew was in trouble. They had no coats, no food, and nothing to make a fire, though they eventually were able to make a tent.

    Small bits of food from the ship floated ashore in the new few days as well as the men being able to find mussels to eat. The ship's cook died the second night. A makeshift boat was made but immediately crashed and sunk. Two crewman made a raft and sailed for the mainland. One was never seen again while the other's body washed back up on the island. The survivors could see Portsmouth Harbor in New Hampshire and though some ships passed close by they could not signal them.

    Days passed and a decision had to be made. The cold killed another crewman. This was the tipping point. The decision was made to use the dead man's body for food. At first some refused to eat their fallen comrade but eventually they all did what they had to do to survive. The decision to resort to cannibalism on Boon Island is debated. The crew blamed Captain Deane, while Deane blamed the crew. No matter who took the blame it was Deane, with training as a butcher, who did the cutting.

    On New Year's Day 1711 a body washed ashore in York and was found by coroner Lewis Bane. He surmised a ship could have wrecked out on Boon Island and asked fisherman John Stover to go investigate. Stover did indeed find the survivors of the wreck. Captain Deane and seven others swarmed Stover upon his arrival. The crew was stick thin, all with thick beards, and suffering from frostbite.

    The weather began turning stormy which meant Stover would have to return to shore without them but he promised to return as soon as the weather cleared. The crew begged him to build them a fire before leaving which he did. This was used to properly cook the rest of the crewman they had been eating, making the ordeal seem a little less gruesome.

    Three days later on January 4, 1711 the men were all rescued from Boon Island. Some were so weak from nearly four weeks stranded on the island that they had to be carried off to the waiting vessels. Once back ashore the stories came out. Captain Deane's painted himself in a very favorable light, while the crew had a far different recollection of the ill-fated journey.

Captain Deane's grave at St. Wilfrid's Church, Wilford, UK (David Skinner/Flickr)


    The crew's story was published as a pamphlet and handed out at coffeehouses back in London. It stated Deane was a traitor, a brutal coward, had caused the shipwreck, and worst of all had been the one to suggest cannibalism. Whether all true or not it ruined Deane's reputation and ran him out of London. He tried rebuilding his reputation by becoming commander of a Russian ship. It was working until he captured two Swedish vessels and subsequently turned them over to Britain. He was accused of taking bribes and was demoted after being court-martialed. Though it moved the needle more toward the Nottingham Galley's crew's version of the Boon Island story Deane still managed to retire in comfort after marrying a wealthy woman.

    Whichever version of events are seen as the truth are lost to history. The only things for certain are the Nottingham Galley's tragic shipwreck on Boon Island and the horrific events that followed which allowed some of the crew to make it off the island alive.

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Thursday, December 3, 2020

In My Footsteps Podcast Episode 3

 Episode 3 of the podcast shares the history and legacy of one of Cape Cod's most beloved institutions.  Thompson's Clam Bar reigned as the king of restaurants on the Cape for decades, becoming known all across the eastern United States.  It had modest beginnings that evolved into a once-in-a-generation establishment still missed to this day decades after its demise. 

We will take a Road Trip up north in New England to the town of York, Maine.  One of the oldest towns in the region York is known for its classic Maine scenery along with high-class accommodations and tremendous restaurants.  York is home to one of Maine's top sites in Cape Neddick (Nubble) Lighthouse, but there is so much more to uncover there.
This Week In History will reveal the sad mystery of Dr.  George Hoyt Bigelow, allows us to have a drink as Prohibition ends, marks the ascension of Napoleon Bonaparte, and changes the landscape of music with the release of Michael Jackson's Thriller album.
Finally I will share the way I found out that movies, television shows, and the like, were not real life.  Let's just say that it has to do with a character dying in a movie and then popping up on television alive and well afterwards and blowing my mind.
All of this and more on Episode 3 of the podcast, so come on and take a walk!

Check out Episode 2 here.

Support the show (https://paypal.me/Setterlund?locale.x=en_US)

Friday, November 1, 2019

Photo Friday: Fall In York, Maine

Welcome to Photo Friday!

Today features a cozy home nestled among the colorful trees in the fall in York, Maine as seen from Mount Agamenticus.



This photo is for sale at Smug Mug here: Fall In New England

I also have a Cape Cod Sunsets 2020 Calendar available at Zazzle here: Cape Cod Sunsets 2020

View my previous blog posts: In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Jane Toppan's Poisoning Murders
                                                In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Thomas Ridley & Cape Cod's Loneliest Grave

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com


My 5th book, Cape Cod Nights, is on sale at Amazon.com and through Arcadia Publishing

Thursday, October 20, 2011

In My Footsteps: Trip 125: York, Maine


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund


Trip 125:  York, Maine
October 5, 2011


            A trip months in the making the town of York did not disappoint me.  Located only a few minutes across the Maine border this town has the feel of ‘classic Maine’ as I have come to know it while also being close enough to make a day trip out of it.
The front of The Stolen Menu Cafe
            Before visiting even one of the spots on my itinerary I needed to stop for some sweets at a very well known establishment.  The Stolen Menu Café has been featured on such shows as The Phantom Gourmet.  Once you step inside it is easy to see why.  I was face to face with a showcase filled with delicious muffins, cookies, cakes, pastries and more.  I began picking and choosing before realizing that I needed to restrain myself from spending my entire daily budget there.  I highly recommend a visit here during any trip to York, be prepared however to fall in love with basically everything they make.
            After collecting my bounty from The Stolen Menu Café I headed to my first destination.  Cape Neddick Lighthouse located on Nubble Rock has been a dream destination of mine since I began travel writing.  Once you arrive at Sohier Park the lighthouse is in plain sight.  It is much closer to the mainland than it appears in photos.  On this day the tide was low and there may have been thirty to forty feet of water between the coast and Nubble Rock.  It is very tempting to cross but signs remind you that no unauthorized people are allowed on the rock.
Cape Neddick Lighthouse
            This is a very popular destination and one of the most photographed and painted lighthouses in the country.  It looks like a spot that should be painted, and also is a perfect snow globe souvenir thanks to its location on Nubble Rock.  I had the chance to sit and have lunch at Sohier Park and enjoyed every second of my time at Cape Neddick Lighthouse, but there is much more to see in York.
            Located on either side of Cape Neddick are beaches.  To the south is Long Sands Beach, to the north is Short Sands Beach.  The names come obviously from the size of each beach.  I ventured north to Short Sands Beach.  The drive around Cape Neddick was magnificent.  I had to slow down every time I passed a clearing so I could gaze out over the ‘classic Maine’ coast. 
The view from Short Sands Beach
            The parking lot was virtually deserted even on a beautiful sunny day.  The tide was low and I was able to walk a good distance out.  There was a charter boat out just past the breakers heading in toward Cape Neddick Lighthouse; it was the only visible vessel on the water.  This beach was amazing as it is sort of funneled in toward the shore by the rocky coastlines of the village of York Beach.  There are shops next to the beach and also an arcade and a bowling alley which give Short Sands Beach a definite summer destination feel to it. 
            For the history lovers I visited Jefferd’s Tavern, part of the Museums of Old York.  It was built originally in Wells, Maine in 1754 and moved to York in 1939 and restored in 1941 before being moved to its current location in 1959.  It currently serves as a visitor and education center.  The outside of the building has changed little since its construction.  The inside still has the look of a Colonial-era tavern and harkens back to America’s early history.
            Across the street from the tavern is The Old Burying Yard which contains the graves of some of the first settlers of York.  The oldest graves date back to before 1650.  There is also a marker telling the story of one of the worst massacres of the Colonial days.  On a January morning in 1692 Native Americans of the Abenaki Tribe attacked the village of York killing forty and marching nearly 300 off to Canada; many died along the way.  The remains of the victims are located not far from the spot of the marker.  It is a sobering reminder of how wild America was for the first few generations of settlers that lived here.
York's Old Gaol(Jail)
            Finally I visited one of the most important Colonial buildings remaining in the United States.  York’s Old Gaol(Jail) was built in 1719 on a hill which now overlooks Rt. 1A.  It incorporated wood from a previous jail built in 1653 in York so it has a connection dating back more than 350 years.  The name ‘gaol’ is pronounced ‘jail’ and has been associated with the building since it was built as the Kings Prison for the Province of Maine.  It was the main jail for the state up until just before the American Revolution.  After that it was the York County Jail until 1860.  After the Civil War it fell into disrepair.  The cause to restore it and use it as a museum came in 1900 thanks to William Dean Howells, a summer York resident and editor of Atlantic Monthly,  and also York resident Mary Sowells Perkins.
            Although it took many months for me to finally make it there York, Maine for me was worth the wait.  Cape Neddick Lighthouse immediately became one of my favorite places I have visited thus far.  The beaches, both Long Sands and Short Sands, were exquisite.  Do not forget to make time to stop in and have something delicious at The Stolen Menu Café as well!  Have fun and happy traveling! 
     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Cape Neddick Lighthouse:  From I-95 N passing through NH into Maine take Exit 7 for Rt. 1.  Turn left onto Rt. 1 and follow 3.2 miles.  Turn right onto Cape Neddick Rd., follow 1 mile.  Slight right onto Shore Rd., continue onto Main St., turn left onto Railroad Ave.  Railroad Ave. becomes Church St., follow .4 miles, turn left onto Nubble Rd., stay right to stay on Nubble Rd.  Follow ½ mile, take 1st right onto Sohier Park Rd., follow to lighthouse.
            The Stolen Menu Café:  From I-95 N passing through NH into Maine take Exit 7 for Rt. 1.  Turn right onto Rt. 1 S, turn left onto York St., continue onto Long Sands Rd.  Follow ½ miles, café is on right.

References:  York, Maine.org
            The Stolen Menu Cafe.com
            Old York.org