In My Footsteps: Trip 125: York, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 125:  York, Maine

October 5, 2011

            A trip months in the making the town of York did not disappoint me.  Located only a few minutes across the Maine border this town has the feel of ‘classic Maine’ as I have come to know it while also being close enough to make a day trip out of it.

The front of The Stolen Menu Cafe

            Before visiting even one of the spots on my itinerary I needed to stop for some sweets at a very well known establishment.  The Stolen Menu Café has been featured on such shows as The Phantom Gourmet.  Once you step inside it is easy to see why.  I was face to face with a showcase filled with delicious muffins, cookies, cakes, pastries and more.  I began picking and choosing before realizing that I needed to restrain myself from spending my entire daily budget there.  I highly recommend a visit here during any trip to York, be prepared however to fall in love with basically everything they make.

            After collecting my bounty from The Stolen Menu Café I headed to my first destination.  Cape Neddick Lighthouse located on Nubble Rock has been a dream destination of mine since I began travel writing.  Once you arrive at Sohier Park the lighthouse is in plain sight.  It is much closer to the mainland than it appears in photos.  On this day the tide was low and there may have been thirty to forty feet of water between the coast and Nubble Rock.  It is very tempting to cross but signs remind you that no unauthorized people are allowed on the rock.

Cape Neddick Lighthouse

            This is a very popular destination and one of the most photographed and painted lighthouses in the country.  It looks like a spot that should be painted, and also is a perfect snow globe souvenir thanks to its location on Nubble Rock.  I had the chance to sit and have lunch at Sohier Park and enjoyed every second of my time at Cape Neddick Lighthouse, but there is much more to see in York.

            Located on either side of Cape Neddick are beaches.  To the south is Long Sands Beach, to the north is Short Sands Beach.  The names come obviously from the size of each beach.  I ventured north to Short Sands Beach.  The drive around Cape Neddick was magnificent.  I had to slow down every time I passed a clearing so I could gaze out over the ‘classic Maine’ coast. 

The view from Short Sands Beach

            The parking lot was virtually deserted even on a beautiful sunny day.  The tide was low and I was able to walk a good distance out.  There was a charter boat out just past the breakers heading in toward Cape Neddick Lighthouse; it was the only visible vessel on the water.  This beach was amazing as it is sort of funneled in toward the shore by the rocky coastlines of the village of York Beach.  There are shops next to the beach and also an arcade and a bowling alley which give Short Sands Beach a definite summer destination feel to it. 

            For the history lovers I visited Jefferd’s Tavern, part of the Museums of Old York.  It was built originally in Wells, Maine in 1754 and moved to York in 1939 and restored in 1941 before being moved to its current location in 1959.  It currently serves as a visitor and education center.  The outside of the building has changed little since its construction.  The inside still has the look of a Colonial-era tavern and harkens back to America’s early history.

            Across the street from the tavern is The Old Burying Yard which contains the graves of some of the first settlers of York.  The oldest graves date back to before 1650.  There is also a marker telling the story of one of the worst massacres of the Colonial days.  On a January morning in 1692 Native Americans of the Abenaki Tribe attacked the village of York killing forty and marching nearly 300 off to Canada; many died along the way.  The remains of the victims are located not far from the spot of the marker.  It is a sobering reminder of how wild America was for the first few generations of settlers that lived here.

York's Old Gaol(Jail)

            Finally I visited one of the most important Colonial buildings remaining in the United States.  York’s Old Gaol(Jail) was built in 1719 on a hill which now overlooks Rt. 1A.  It incorporated wood from a previous jail built in 1653 in York so it has a connection dating back more than 350 years.  The name ‘gaol’ is pronounced ‘jail’ and has been associated with the building since it was built as the Kings Prison for the Province of Maine.  It was the main jail for the state up until just before the American Revolution.  After that it was the York County Jail until 1860.  After the Civil War it fell into disrepair.  The cause to restore it and use it as a museum came in 1900 thanks to William Dean Howells, a summer York resident and editor of Atlantic Monthly,  and also York resident Mary Sowells Perkins.

            Although it took many months for me to finally make it there York, Maine for me was worth the wait.  Cape Neddick Lighthouse immediately became one of my favorite places I have visited thus far.  The beaches, both Long Sands and Short Sands, were exquisite.  Do not forget to make time to stop in and have something delicious at The Stolen Menu Café as well!  Have fun and happy traveling! 

     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Cape Neddick Lighthouse:  From I-95 N passing through NH into Maine take Exit 7 for Rt. 1.  Turn left onto Rt. 1 and follow 3.2 miles.  Turn right onto Cape Neddick Rd., follow 1 mile.  Slight right onto Shore Rd., continue onto Main St., turn left onto Railroad Ave.  Railroad Ave. becomes Church St., follow .4 miles, turn left onto Nubble Rd., stay right to stay on Nubble Rd.  Follow ½ mile, take 1^st right onto Sohier Park Rd., follow to lighthouse.

            The Stolen Menu Café:  From I-95 N passing through NH into Maine take Exit 7 for Rt. 1.  Turn right onto Rt. 1 S, turn left onto York St., continue onto Long Sands Rd.  Follow ½ miles, café is on right.

References:  York, Maine.org

            The Stolen Menu Cafe.com

            Old York.org

York on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 123: Rye, New Hampshire

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 123:  Rye, New Hampshire

May 25, 2011

            The very first settlement in New Hampshire the small town of Rye has a history going back nearly 400 years.  It is also known for its beaches, one of only a few New Hampshire towns known as such due to the tiny eighteen miles of coastline the state has.

            The most famous of all of the beaches is of course Rye Beach located on New Hampshire’s shore hugging Rt. 1A.  In addition to being the most well known of the beaches Rye Beach is also a village with its own zip code; it is a very desirable place to live and visit.

Wallis Sands State Beach

            Rye Beach is the most well known of the sandy spots in this town but Wallis Sands State Beach is another area that features just as many beautiful views.  The beach is not too large but gets crowded with people choosing it or those who are the spillover from the even more crowded Rye Beach.  The best part of this spot is the tremendous view of the Isles of Shoals just off shore.  They sit six miles off shore and lie between the border of New Hampshire and Maine; a clear day will give the best views.  Still, even if the islands are not visible Wallis Sands State Beach is a great spot to start a trip in Rye.

Rye Harbor

            Continuing with the state park theme of Rye there is Rye Harbor State Park which continues the seemingly endless stream of beautiful scenery.  The views here include the Isles of Shoals and Rye Harbor which is filled with boats during the summer.  The park is open pretty much from Memorial Day to Labor Day and the rocky shore coupled with the rolling waves makes it easy to lose yourself in the moment here.

            Perhaps the most historic spot in all of Rye, and maybe the state of New Hampshire lies at Odiorne Point State Park.  It is here that the first settlers of New Hampshire arrived in 1623.  The park and point are named for the Odiorne family who arrived in the 1660’s.  There is a marker on a hill overlooking the water which is supposedly the spot where the first settlers arrived.

Parsons Homestead

            Some of the history in Rye is apparent and obvious like Odiorne Point State Park, but then there is some that you have to go and find like the Parsons Homestead.  Located on Washington Street this salmon colored home was once lived in by the Parsons Family, one of the original families to settle Rye.  Built in 1757 the home’s unique color makes it stand out as does the open plot of land next to it.  There is a lush green field to the right of the Parsons Homestead which was set off thanks to the efforts of 161 local families in 1978 to be used by the town.

Public Library

            A visit to the Rye Historical Society will give you a better understanding of the importance of places such as the Parsons Homestead as well as Odiorne Point State Park.  It is located in the Mildred Wilson Antique Shop built in 1930 on Olde Parish Rd.  It is not a very old building to house an historical society considering some of the other ones that I have seen in my travels but it fits just as well.  It is in the same parking lot as the public library which is a beautiful building and just celebrated its centennial in September 2011.  It is a peaceful sort of place, a perfect spot to end my time in Rye.

            Well known for its beautiful beaches, and rightfully so, there is a lot more to see in Rye than just the sun and the sand.  If that is all one chooses to see however that is still a great trip.  Still take some time to visit Odiorne Point State Park to get a taste of New Hampshire’s history before going off to Rye Beach and Wallis Sands State Beach if you can.  Have fun and happy traveling!

            For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!

Directions:  Rye Beach:  From I-93 N take Exit 27 to merge onto Rt. 1, merge onto I-95 N, take Exit 1 once into NH for Rt. 107, after 8 miles turn left onto Rt. 1 N, slight right onto North Rd. which will then become South Rd.  Follow 2.6 miles, Rye Beach is straight ahead.

            Odiorne Point State Park:  From I-93 N take Exit 27 to merge onto Rt. 1, merge onto I-95 N, once into NH take Exit 3 for Rt. 33, continue straight, turn right onto Rt. 33 E, follow 1 mile, turn right onto Peverly Hill Rd.  Continue onto Elwyn Rd., at rotary take 2^nd exit for Rt. 1A, follow 1.4 miles, parking is on left.

References:  Rye Beach Info.com

            Rye, NH - Official Town Site

            Rye, NH Historical Society.org

New Hampshire Seacoast on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 122: Portsmouth, New Hampshire

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 122:  Portsmouth, New Hampshire

May 25, 2011

            There are some cities and towns that I have visited where I have had to look hard to find beautiful and historic places and things.  Then there are others that practically scream history from the moment I arrive; Portsmouth, New Hampshire is one such place.  For me it seems like the moment I cross the border into New Hampshire it is like stepping into an entirely different world.  On this day it went from being cloudy and gray in Massachusetts to immediately sunny when I entered New Hampshire.  The rolling green hills I saw once I got off the highway in Exeter made me realize this was going to be a really fun day.

The Memorial Bridge leading to Badger Island.

            Upon entering historic Portsmouth the first spot I headed for was an old brick building called the Warner House which was originally built in 1716.  It is the oldest brick mansion in New England but it was also being worked on at the time.  This meant that standing and staring at it was a little pointless.  However, since I had paid the parking meter I had ample time to walk around Daniel St. which is really close to the Piscataqua River.  It is here that the Memorial Bridge leads drivers out to Badger Island in Kittery, Maine.  I found it really cool that Maine was so nearby.

            The next place I visited blew me away, and I must confess that it was not even on my agenda during my trip.  I happened upon Prescott Park, named for long-time resident Josie Prescott, while parking my car across the street from the Strawberry Banke Museum.  The museum was put on hold once I saw what lay at the end of a brick walkway.

Prescott Park

            I could hear the splashing of water and walked in on a simply stunning garden scene.  It reminded me immediately of the rose garden at Lynch Park in Beverly, Massachusetts.  That was one of my favorite places I had been to so experiencing a bit of déjà vu at Prescott Park was most welcomed. 

            It was such a beautiful and relaxing spot that I hardly knew where to start taking photos.  I made my way around the small rectangular garden lined with trees and round brick water fountains wanting to stay there as long as I could.  This area known as the ‘formal garden’ has been said to give the feeling of a ‘park within a park’ and that is true; it is like its own world.  I walked around this area some more and then ventured out into the rest of Prescott Park which overlooks the Piscataqua River.  There are also art shows and concerts on the grass at Prescott Park during the summer months where many well known artists and musicians come to play.  I recommend taking a lot of time here to enjoy the scenery.

Entrance to Fort Constitution

            Once I was done falling in love with Prescott Park I went to find another of my favorite things, a lighthouse.  I actually found two.  Portsmouth Harbor Light is located on the ground of the Coast Guard station but can be seen from the neighboring Fort Constitution.  This ‘setback’ actually made it even more fun as I got to visit another historical spot while viewing the lighthouse.

            Fort Constitution was originally known as Fort William and Mary until the land was given to the United States by New Hampshire in 1791.  It was repaired and renamed.  I found it neat that in order to get to the fort grounds you must go through the Coast Guard area.  To accomplish this there is a blue line that you must walk to get there, anything else is off limits to civilians.

            Portsmouth Harbor Light is one of the oldest stations in the country.  Established in 1771 it was the tenth of eleven lighthouse stations built prior to the American Revolution.  That one was wooden; the current lighthouse was erected in 1878.  There are plenty of views of this lighthouse though the walls and buildings of the Coast Guard station block a clear shot for photography.  That did not deter me as I found a way, a dangerous way, to get a clear shot.

Portsmouth Harbor Light with Whaleback Light on the left.

            It just so happens that you can get an unobstructed view of Portsmouth Harbor Light by hanging out of one of the small windows of Fort Constitution which sit at ground level.  The problem is that there is nothing to hang onto and it is a nearly twenty foot drop to the rocks below.  This is why I would never suggest any traveler attempt the same; just enjoy the safer view with the buildings and wall in the way.

            Located to the left of Portsmouth Harbor Light from Fort Constitution is Whaleback Lighthouse which sits across the border in Kittery, Maine.  I got a second look at this far off lighthouse when I visited Fort Stark located south of Fort Constitution.  It is one of seven forts that were built to protect Portsmouth.  Fort Stark was built in the time between 1890-1920 however no shots were ever fired in anger from this site.  I got a cool sneak peak inside the Battery Hays building since one of the three sets of metal doors was opened.  There was nothing of consequence inside but it was still neat to see inside.

Battery Hays building at Fort Stark

            From atop the Battery Hays building I was able to get a great view of the boats sitting in the marina near the Wentworth By the Sea Hotel & Spa, one of the last remaining Gilded Age hotels.  The ‘Gilded Age’ being the time of the late-19^th century.  When I turned around I got another view of the previously mentioned Whaleback Lighthouse, it was a magnificent area but then again everything I saw in Portsmouth was magnificent.

            As soon as you enter the borders of Portsmouth you know you have arrived somewhere special.  A simple walk along the historic streets near the Piscataqua River will give you the feel while visiting Fort Constitution and Fort Stark make the historical significance quite apparent.  Of course stopping to relax and maybe enjoy lunch at Prescott Park might be my favorite way to enjoy Portsmouth, but everyone can decide for themselves.  Have fun and happy traveling!

   My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!  For more In My Footsteps items follow the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading! 

Directions:  Prescott Park:  From I-95 N take Exit 3 for Rt. 33; turn right, follow 1.8 mi., continue onto Middle St., follow .8 mi., turn right onto State St.  Turn right onto Atkinson St., take 1^st left onto Court St., turn right onto Marcy St.  Park will be on the left.

            Portsmouth Harbor Light:  From I-95 N take Exit 3 for Rt. 33; turn right, follow 1.8 mi., continue onto Middle St., follow .8 mi., turn right onto State St.  Turn right onto Pleasant St., continue onto Marcy St.  Slight left onto NH 1-B South, follow 2 mi., turn left onto Wentworth Rd., slight right onto Sullivan Ln.

            Fort Stark:  From I-95 N take Exit 3 for Rt. 33; turn right, follow 1.8 mi., continue onto Middle St., follow .6 mi., turn right onto Miller Ave., continue onto Sagamore Ave.  Turn left onto NH 1-B, follow 1.8 mi., turn right onto Wild Rose Ln., follow to the fort. 

References:  Warner House.org

            Prescott Park.org

            City of Portsmouth.com

            Portsmouth Historical Society

New Hampshire on Dwellable