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Thursday, November 10, 2011

In My Footsteps: Trip 126: Kittery, Maine


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund


Trip 126:  Kittery, Maine
October 5, 2011


Fort McClary
            Although it is probably known more for its outlet shops Kittery has a strong historical significance as well.  The oldest town in Maine was originally settled in the 1620’s and became a town in 1647.  Ironically when most towns in the Colonies were being named for towns in England Kittery was actually named for a house.  It was named for the Manor of Kittery Court in Devon, England.  That home still stands to this day.  Of course I am not one to tell visitors to pass up the Kittery Outlets.  Still, after paying a visit to the acres of shops spread on both sides of Rt. 1 there are many other interesting things to see.
The view from inside the Block House.
            I started off my time in Kittery with an amazing old fort.  Fort McClary sits on the northern shore of Portsmouth Harbor.  There is a panoramic view of Portsmouth Lighthouse, Fort Constitution, and Whaleback Lighthouse along with many boats in the harbor during the warmer seasons.  The first fortifications on the site dated back to the late 17th century and were erected by wealthy landowner Sir William Pepperell.  The fort itself was built in 1808.  It fell into severe disrepair in the early 20th century.  The state of Maine purchased the fort and the land in 1924.  The badly damaged buildings were torn down.  The surviving buildings including the Block House were repaired in the 1980’s.
            Unlike many of the forts I have visited I was actually able to go inside one of the main buildings.  The Block House, a white hexagonal building built in between 1844-46, was wide open.  It now serves as a museum.  The view from up inside the Block House is incredible.  The vantage point must be more than fifty feet above the water level if I had to guess.  I took my time and enjoyed the views before leaving one fort behind, there was another one that I needed to visit later. 
Rice Public Library
            In between forts I took in some of the other sites that Kittery had to offer.  Although I don’t frequent them I am fascinated by how many public libraries are housed in amazing looking buildings.  That is the case with the Rice Library on Wentworth Street.  The library building looks much like ones I have seen in Easton and Fairhaven, Massachusetts.  The Rice Library has some of the same styles as many other Henry Hobson Richardson buildings despite not being created by the famed 19th century architect.
            I was particularly excited about my visit to Fort Foster.  Located on Gerrish Island in Kittery this historic site has more than just a fort.  During my trip to Portsmouth, New Hampshire’s Fort Constitution I had noticed another lighthouse located across the harbor.  That was Whaleback Lighthouse and I knew I needed to pay it a visit during a future trip. 
Whaleback Lighthouse on the left at Fort Foster.
            On this day the gates to Fort Foster were closed so I had to park outside and walk in.  Also it had been a beautifully sunny day but dark clouds had rolled in and it began to rain heavily.  I had been planning my Kittery trip for months so a little rain, or a lot of rain, was not going to stop me.  Plus the skies were still mostly blue which made me believe that a rainbow would be possible once the rains stopped.
            People were fleeing the rain while I walked out.  The fort was built in the 1870’s making it the last ‘old’ fort built in the area.  As the rain was still falling I made my way out onto a very long pier.  It was here that I got the closest view of Whaleback Lighthouse.  The fifty-foot tall structure was built in 1872.  The Whaleback name refers to a jagged stretch of rocks, a continuation of Gerrish Island completely underwater at high tide.  Though it is often considered a New Hampshire lighthouse it is located about 1,500 feet into Maine’s waters.
The rainbow which came out while at Fort Foster.
            There is also a unique house situated on some rocks near the lighthouse as well but I was unable to find any information about its significance.  It was while I was standing out on the pier that the rain let up and the sun came back out.  Sure enough a rainbow began to form.  I was able to see the entirety of the rainbow from where I stood.  For a short time there was even a second rainbow which formed.  It made my walk out there in the rain worth it.
            I had an awesome time in Kittery.  The pair of old forts were just what I was interested in seeing.  I highly recommend checking them out even if you decide to spend most of your time shopping at the Kittery Outlets.  The oldest town in Maine has so much to offer and I am so glad I got to see it.  Have fun and happy traveling!

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!

Directions:  Fort McClary:  Take I-95 N through New Hampshire into Maine.  Take Exit 2 to merge onto Rt. 236 S.  At the rotary take the 3rd exit to stay on Rt. 236.  Follow it 1.1 miles, continue onto Whipple Rd., continue onto Pepperrell Rd.  Follow it .5 miles, the fort is on the right.
            Fort Foster:  Take I-95 N through New Hampshire into Maine.  Take Exit 2 to merge onto Rt. 236 S.  At the rotary take the 3rd exit to stay on Rt. 236.  Follow it 1.1 miles, continue onto Whipple Rd., continue onto Pepperrell Rd.  Follow it 1.5 miles, continue onto Tenney Hill Road.  Continue onto Brave Boat Harbor Rd., follow it .2 miles, turn right onto Gerrish Island Rd.  Turn right onto Pocahontas Rd., follow it 1.1 miles, keep right at the fork in the road.  The fort and lighthouse are straight ahead.

            Fort McClary.org
            North American Forts - Fort Foster

Thursday, October 20, 2011

In My Footsteps: Trip 125: York, Maine


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund


Trip 125:  York, Maine
October 5, 2011


            A trip months in the making the town of York did not disappoint me.  Located only a few minutes across the Maine border this town has the feel of ‘classic Maine’ as I have come to know it while also being close enough to make a day trip out of it.
The front of The Stolen Menu Cafe
            Before visiting even one of the spots on my itinerary I needed to stop for some sweets at a very well known establishment.  The Stolen Menu Café has been featured on such shows as The Phantom Gourmet.  Once you step inside it is easy to see why.  I was face to face with a showcase filled with delicious muffins, cookies, cakes, pastries and more.  I began picking and choosing before realizing that I needed to restrain myself from spending my entire daily budget there.  I highly recommend a visit here during any trip to York, be prepared however to fall in love with basically everything they make.
            After collecting my bounty from The Stolen Menu Café I headed to my first destination.  Cape Neddick Lighthouse located on Nubble Rock has been a dream destination of mine since I began travel writing.  Once you arrive at Sohier Park the lighthouse is in plain sight.  It is much closer to the mainland than it appears in photos.  On this day the tide was low and there may have been thirty to forty feet of water between the coast and Nubble Rock.  It is very tempting to cross but signs remind you that no unauthorized people are allowed on the rock.
Cape Neddick Lighthouse
            This is a very popular destination and one of the most photographed and painted lighthouses in the country.  It looks like a spot that should be painted, and also is a perfect snow globe souvenir thanks to its location on Nubble Rock.  I had the chance to sit and have lunch at Sohier Park and enjoyed every second of my time at Cape Neddick Lighthouse, but there is much more to see in York.
            Located on either side of Cape Neddick are beaches.  To the south is Long Sands Beach, to the north is Short Sands Beach.  The names come obviously from the size of each beach.  I ventured north to Short Sands Beach.  The drive around Cape Neddick was magnificent.  I had to slow down every time I passed a clearing so I could gaze out over the ‘classic Maine’ coast. 
The view from Short Sands Beach
            The parking lot was virtually deserted even on a beautiful sunny day.  The tide was low and I was able to walk a good distance out.  There was a charter boat out just past the breakers heading in toward Cape Neddick Lighthouse; it was the only visible vessel on the water.  This beach was amazing as it is sort of funneled in toward the shore by the rocky coastlines of the village of York Beach.  There are shops next to the beach and also an arcade and a bowling alley which give Short Sands Beach a definite summer destination feel to it. 
            For the history lovers I visited Jefferd’s Tavern, part of the Museums of Old York.  It was built originally in Wells, Maine in 1754 and moved to York in 1939 and restored in 1941 before being moved to its current location in 1959.  It currently serves as a visitor and education center.  The outside of the building has changed little since its construction.  The inside still has the look of a Colonial-era tavern and harkens back to America’s early history.
            Across the street from the tavern is The Old Burying Yard which contains the graves of some of the first settlers of York.  The oldest graves date back to before 1650.  There is also a marker telling the story of one of the worst massacres of the Colonial days.  On a January morning in 1692 Native Americans of the Abenaki Tribe attacked the village of York killing forty and marching nearly 300 off to Canada; many died along the way.  The remains of the victims are located not far from the spot of the marker.  It is a sobering reminder of how wild America was for the first few generations of settlers that lived here.
York's Old Gaol(Jail)
            Finally I visited one of the most important Colonial buildings remaining in the United States.  York’s Old Gaol(Jail) was built in 1719 on a hill which now overlooks Rt. 1A.  It incorporated wood from a previous jail built in 1653 in York so it has a connection dating back more than 350 years.  The name ‘gaol’ is pronounced ‘jail’ and has been associated with the building since it was built as the Kings Prison for the Province of Maine.  It was the main jail for the state up until just before the American Revolution.  After that it was the York County Jail until 1860.  After the Civil War it fell into disrepair.  The cause to restore it and use it as a museum came in 1900 thanks to William Dean Howells, a summer York resident and editor of Atlantic Monthly,  and also York resident Mary Sowells Perkins.
            Although it took many months for me to finally make it there York, Maine for me was worth the wait.  Cape Neddick Lighthouse immediately became one of my favorite places I have visited thus far.  The beaches, both Long Sands and Short Sands, were exquisite.  Do not forget to make time to stop in and have something delicious at The Stolen Menu Café as well!  Have fun and happy traveling! 
     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Cape Neddick Lighthouse:  From I-95 N passing through NH into Maine take Exit 7 for Rt. 1.  Turn left onto Rt. 1 and follow 3.2 miles.  Turn right onto Cape Neddick Rd., follow 1 mile.  Slight right onto Shore Rd., continue onto Main St., turn left onto Railroad Ave.  Railroad Ave. becomes Church St., follow .4 miles, turn left onto Nubble Rd., stay right to stay on Nubble Rd.  Follow ½ mile, take 1st right onto Sohier Park Rd., follow to lighthouse.
            The Stolen Menu Café:  From I-95 N passing through NH into Maine take Exit 7 for Rt. 1.  Turn right onto Rt. 1 S, turn left onto York St., continue onto Long Sands Rd.  Follow ½ miles, café is on right.

References:  York, Maine.org
            The Stolen Menu Cafe.com
            Old York.org

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

In My Footsteps: Trip 123: Rye, New Hampshire


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund


Trip 123:  Rye, New Hampshire
May 25, 2011


            The very first settlement in New Hampshire the small town of Rye has a history going back nearly 400 years.  It is also known for its beaches, one of only a few New Hampshire towns known as such due to the tiny eighteen miles of coastline the state has.
            The most famous of all of the beaches is of course Rye Beach located on New Hampshire’s shore hugging Rt. 1A.  In addition to being the most well known of the beaches Rye Beach is also a village with its own zip code; it is a very desirable place to live and visit.
Wallis Sands State Beach
            Rye Beach is the most well known of the sandy spots in this town but Wallis Sands State Beach is another area that features just as many beautiful views.  The beach is not too large but gets crowded with people choosing it or those who are the spillover from the even more crowded Rye Beach.  The best part of this spot is the tremendous view of the Isles of Shoals just off shore.  They sit six miles off shore and lie between the border of New Hampshire and Maine; a clear day will give the best views.  Still, even if the islands are not visible Wallis Sands State Beach is a great spot to start a trip in Rye.
Rye Harbor
            Continuing with the state park theme of Rye there is Rye Harbor State Park which continues the seemingly endless stream of beautiful scenery.  The views here include the Isles of Shoals and Rye Harbor which is filled with boats during the summer.  The park is open pretty much from Memorial Day to Labor Day and the rocky shore coupled with the rolling waves makes it easy to lose yourself in the moment here.
            Perhaps the most historic spot in all of Rye, and maybe the state of New Hampshire lies at Odiorne Point State Park.  It is here that the first settlers of New Hampshire arrived in 1623.  The park and point are named for the Odiorne family who arrived in the 1660’s.  There is a marker on a hill overlooking the water which is supposedly the spot where the first settlers arrived.
Parsons Homestead
            Some of the history in Rye is apparent and obvious like Odiorne Point State Park, but then there is some that you have to go and find like the Parsons Homestead.  Located on Washington Street this salmon colored home was once lived in by the Parsons Family, one of the original families to settle Rye.  Built in 1757 the home’s unique color makes it stand out as does the open plot of land next to it.  There is a lush green field to the right of the Parsons Homestead which was set off thanks to the efforts of 161 local families in 1978 to be used by the town.
Public Library
            A visit to the Rye Historical Society will give you a better understanding of the importance of places such as the Parsons Homestead as well as Odiorne Point State Park.  It is located in the Mildred Wilson Antique Shop built in 1930 on Olde Parish Rd.  It is not a very old building to house an historical society considering some of the other ones that I have seen in my travels but it fits just as well.  It is in the same parking lot as the public library which is a beautiful building and just celebrated its centennial in September 2011.  It is a peaceful sort of place, a perfect spot to end my time in Rye.
            Well known for its beautiful beaches, and rightfully so, there is a lot more to see in Rye than just the sun and the sand.  If that is all one chooses to see however that is still a great trip.  Still take some time to visit Odiorne Point State Park to get a taste of New Hampshire’s history before going off to Rye Beach and Wallis Sands State Beach if you can.  Have fun and happy traveling!

            For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!


Directions:  Rye Beach:  From I-93 N take Exit 27 to merge onto Rt. 1, merge onto I-95 N, take Exit 1 once into NH for Rt. 107, after 8 miles turn left onto Rt. 1 N, slight right onto North Rd. which will then become South Rd.  Follow 2.6 miles, Rye Beach is straight ahead.
            Odiorne Point State Park:  From I-93 N take Exit 27 to merge onto Rt. 1, merge onto I-95 N, once into NH take Exit 3 for Rt. 33, continue straight, turn right onto Rt. 33 E, follow 1 mile, turn right onto Peverly Hill Rd.  Continue onto Elwyn Rd., at rotary take 2nd exit for Rt. 1A, follow 1.4 miles, parking is on left.

References:  Rye Beach Info.com
            Rye, NH - Official Town Site
            Rye, NH Historical Society.org