In My Footsteps: Trip 38: Newport, RI - The Mansions

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In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 38: Newport, RI – The Mansions

March 25, 2010

            The Mansions of Newport, Rhode Island, just mentioning them conjures up images of incredible architectural beauty along the streets and ocean side.  They have inspiring names like The Breakers and Rosecliff.  Many of them can be toured but there is so much more to the mansions than just the structures themselves.  The history of these amazing homes and how they ended up being built in Newport is nearly as spectacular as the homes are.

            Although they are spread around Newport, mostly along Bellevue Avenue, the best way to enjoy them, as well as the natural beauty of the ocean is along Newport’s famed Cliff Walk.  The development of the walk began all the way back in 1880 but it took more than fifty years to get the walk into serious working order.  Even with the Cliff Walk’s popularity as a tourist destination there are some home owners that do not enjoy the pathway crossing through their property.  All in all however the Cliff Walk has been well received by the mansion owners, many of them have helped in improving the path itself to increase its enjoyability.  For the most part it is a very easy walk with sloping hills on level, paved, ground.  There are a few tough spots and the drop off of the cliffs can be up to seventy-feet, so of course exercise caution while walking. 

            Running a total of three and a half miles along the coast, the Cliff Walk begins at Memorial Boulevard but there are many entrances along the route if you don’t wish to walk the entire length.  I began my journey along the Cliff Walk at the end of Narragansett Avenue which as a great view of Atlantic Beach to the north and of the land across Easton Bay.   

            The first buildings I saw were actually not mansions in the common term.  The buildings are amazing but they are part of Salve Regina University.  Ochre Court(above), which serves as the school’s administration building, is the second largest mansion in Newport behind only The Breakers(right).  It was given to the school as a gift in 1947.  The mansion was originally owned by wealthy New Yorker Ogden Goelet in the 1890’s.  I can only imagine how it is as a student at the university with such incredible views of the ocean and spending so much time in the mansions, it must become commonplace for them.

            Located right after Salve Regina is the largest and perhaps most famous of the mansions in Newport: The Breakers.  As I mentioned in my first Newport article this mansion was owned by the immensely wealthy Vanderbilt family.  Built between 1893 and 1895 this definition of luxury cost more than $7 million back then which when adjusted to today’s dollars ends up being over $150 million.  For pure numbers The Breakers stands on thirteen acres of prime oceanside land, contains seventy rooms, and is approximately 65,000 square feet in size.  It is normally a first stop for any tour of the mansions and one can see why.

            For those who did not read the first Newport article Cornelius Vanderbilt II, the man for whom the mansion was built, was the grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt the patriarch of the family.  At his peak the elder Vanderbilt had a net worth equivalent to more than $143 billion in today’s money.  This was made from shipping and the New York Central Railroad ventures during the mid-19^th century.  The Breakers is considered to be the ultimate definition of the ‘Gilded Age,’ which is the period of great economic growth felt in the time after the Civil War up to the end of the 19^th century.  Even from a distance behind a fence its majesty is obvious; I had to stand and marvel at it for a while in an attempt to understand what I was seeing.

            Rosecliff(above), the mansion built for silver heiress Theresa Fair Oelrichs, sits on six and a half acres of land and is known for its red striped awning which covers the spacious back porch area.  During my trip the awning was not present however.  Built between 1898 and 1902, Rosecliff cost $2.5 million at the turn of the 20^th century and was used for scenes in such films as The Great Gatsby and True Lies.  Mrs. Oelrich’s fortune came from her father, Irish-immigrant, James Graham Fair who made his money thanks to the Comstock Lode in Virginia City, Nevada.  This was the first major discovery of silver ore in the United States in 1859.  Harry Houdini once performed at Rosecliff as Mrs. Oelrich enjoyed throwing lavish parties featuring many of the day’s wealthiest socialites and brightest entertainers.

            Next up was the Marble House(left, top) which has the claim to fame of being the home that began the evolution of Newport from quiet seaside village to wealthy summer getaway.  Built between 1888 and 1892 this summer home for William Vanderbilt, another grandson of the ‘Commodore’ Cornelius Vanderbilt, has more to offer than just the incredible 500,000 cubic feet of marble.  In addition to the main house which cost $11 million, more than $250 million today, there is a surprising sight, a Chinese Tea House(left, bottom) that looms on the periphery of the grounds just above a tunnel which takes you underneath the Marble House property.  Built in 1914 by Mrs. Alva Belmont, she divorced Vanderbilt but kept the house, after her second husband died, the Tea House was used as a rallying spot for women’s right to vote.  It was an unexpected sight in the sea of marble castles to see a piece of Eastern architecture sitting amongst them.

            The Cliff Walk in Newport is one of the most celebrated areas in New England.  It is a mix of two of my favorite things, the beauty of the ocean and amazing pieces of American history.  It sells itself but I highly recommend walking here, even if it is only a short walk.  Whether it’s Salve Regina University, The Breakers, Rosecliff, or the Marble House with its amazing Tea House, anyone reading this needs to visit Newport and see these incredible mansions in person.  Have fun and happy traveling!


     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions: Cliff Walk:  From I-195 take Exit 8A for Rt. 24.  Slight left onto Rt. 114, slight left onto Rt. 214.  Rt. 214 becomes Rt. 138A, follow until a left at Bellevue Avenue.  Turn right at Narragansett Avenue, follow it to the end, this is a great spot to begin Cliff Walk, Salve Regina is first of mansions.

References:  Newport Mansions.org

            Cliff Walk.com  

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In My Footsteps: Trip 37: Newport, RI

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 37: Newport, RI

March 25, 2010



     My visit to the amazing town of Newport will take two articles as there is so much more to see than simply the beautiful mansions. That said, the mansions themselves will be the focus of the second article; this one deals with the entirety of Newport. This article is proof that Newport stands out as one of the greatest attractions in the country.

Newport is part of Aquidneck Island which is the largest island in the state of Rhode Island. The town was formed in 1639 when eight men left nearby Portsmouth due to fallout with pioneer settler Anne Hutchinson. As part of the agreement the defectors received control of the southern part of the island which became Newport.

It became clear to me just how rich in history Newport is as soon as I took the turn from Broadway onto Washington Square. It was as if everywhere I looked there was a piece of history staring back at me. It is actually not far from the truth. There is a 250-acre section of the center of Newport that is designated as a National Historic Landmark due to its collection of pristine colonial-era homes and buildings.

I found a lot to park in and began walking. In the middle of Washington Square sits Eisenhower Park a nice shady spot near the Old Colony House(above), or Old State House. Built in 1741 it is one of the best kept public buildings from the Colonial-era. George Washington and Dwight Eisenhower have been guests there and it now acts as a museum and part of the larger National Historic Landmark that the center of Newport is. In the midst of Eisenhower Park stands a statue of Oliver Perry, a hero during the War of 1812 who led a decisive American Naval victory over the British at Lake Erie.

After enjoying the sites in and around Washington Square for a bit I began to tour the nearby streets. Each and every home it seemed had a plaque with a name and year adorning it; never before have I seen so many historical homes, one after another. I was amazed by the Wanton-Lyman-Hazard House(left) sitting just off of Washington Square on the corner of Broadway and Stone Street. It amazed me because of the fact that it was built in 1697 making it the oldest surviving house in Newport and one of the oldest in the entire state of Rhode Island. So old is this house that it was damaged during the riots after the imposing of the Stamp Act of 1765 which was a result of yet another unfair British tax on the colonies. It is open for tours during June, July, and August and is a fascinating spot even if just passing by it.

The influx of wealthy people into Newport in the late-19th and early-20th centuries is not exclusive to the mansion area of Bellevue Avenue. Another example in the center of Newport is Vanderbilt Hall which is a mansion and hotel built in 1909 by Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt and dedicated to his father, Cornelius Vanderbilt. The Vanderbilt family came to prominence during the mid-1800’s when Cornelius oversaw the building of railroad and shipping empires. Cornelius Vanderbilt, when his fortune is adjusted for inflation into current times, had a net worth of somewhere between $143-178 billion. His mansion, The Breakers, will be covered in the second Newport article.

After walking along Clarke Street and Spring Street the next destination was a much simpler spot: Touro Park. The park sits between Pelham and Mill Street and is known for a spectacular piece of architecture known as the Old Stone Mill(right). Built in 1660, and similar in appearance to Dennis, Massachusetts’ Scargo Tower, this landmark’s exact historic lineage is unknown. Two popular theories have it either being built by the grandfather of the nefarious Revolutionary War traitor, Benedict Arnold, or that it was built by early Viking visitors. However, an archaeological investigation in 1948-49 could not date any of the artifacts it studied earlier than the 17th Century. Origin aside this
structure is a stand alone site, the oldest building in Newport and pretty much a one of a kind.

The final place I visited in Newport was Fort Adams. Located across Newport Harbor with a breathtaking view of the Newport Bridge and Rose Island Lighthouse, Fort Adams(below) is still open to the public and the entire area is a State Park.

Originally built in the 1820’s this is the largest coastal fort in the United States. It has spectacular views from every side; it was magnified when I was there near sunset. It actually became a little spooky looking in through the gates that covered each entrance as the light became dim.

The Fort Adams State Park sits on land that was at one time owned by William Brenton who was governor of the Rhode Island colony from 1666-69. He called the land Hammersmith after the town in England where his family came from. In the warmer months the open grassy areas host the Newport Jazz Festival and Folk Festival. It was a great way to end a great trip to an amazing town. Newport is much more than just the storied mansions, it is rows and rows of historical homes. It is also a mysterious stone mill and a beautiful if not spooky old fort. When you have seen all of the mansions in Newport make time to view these other attractions, it adds another dimension to any Newport trip. Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Touro Park: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Slight left at Spring Street, turn left onto Mill St. Park is on the right.

Fort Adams State Park: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Left at Thames Street, left at America’s Cup Ave. Right onto Thames Street, right onto Wellington Ave., right at Harrison Ave., turn left to stay on Harrison, turn right to stay on Harrison. Turn right at Ft. Adams Dr., follow it to fort parking lot.

Historical Center of Town/Washington Square: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Continue onto Washington Square, there is street parking and off-street lots. Historic homes and buildings are in all directions.

References: Go Newport.com

            Newport Historical Society

            Fort Adams.org

            Newport Restoration.org

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