Cape Cod True Crime: The Lady of the Dunes & Tony Costa

In My Footsteps: 4K New England - Cape Cod's Loneliest Grave

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Thomas Ridley and the Cape's Loneliest Grave

     October is perfect for hiking through the woods gazing upon the colorful leaves as they change with the temperatures. It is a time for football, friends, family, and fun. On the other side of the coin it is the Halloween season which is perfect for fear and the unknown. Cape Cod is home to its share of scary stories, hauntings, murder, and other oddities. One such intriguing story is that of Cape Cod’s loneliest grave. This grave does not lie in any cemetery on a map, nor are there any markings or signs to allow you to easily find it. No, this grave and the person who lies beneath it were buried far from society specifically to not be found.

     The man Thomas Ridley is far more ordinary than the adventure of the search for his hidden grave. A fisherman and seaman Ridley was born in Truro on December 13, 1715, the eldest son of Thomas Ridley Sr and Mary Smalley. Thomas Sr. had been born on the Atlantic Ocean in 1685 as his parents traveled from Great Britain to New England.

     Thomas Ridley Jr. married Elizabeth Cook in 1738 and together they had ten children, four sons and six daughters. All things being equal Ridley’s life was ordinary until it neared its end. It was in the 1770’s when Thomas contracted smallpox. Sadly at this time on average 20-60% of adults who contracted smallpox, and more than 80% of children infected died, with the survivors usually living with severe scarring. Unfortunately for Thomas the process of vaccination did not even begin until 1796 under the watch of British doctor Edward Jenner and would take several years to perfect. The ordinary smallpox strain, which accounted for ninety percent of all cases throughout history, took twelve to fourteen days on average to begin showing symptoms after a person was infected. Those who died usually passing after ten to sixteen days of the onset of the symptoms of severe rash and fever.

A wide view of Thomas Ridley's grave, showing how it blends in.

     Sometime in 1776 Thomas Ridley caught and died from smallpox. The fear of the spread of the disease caused the residents of Truro to bury Ridley’s body far from the rest of the village. He was buried deep in the thick forest of North Truro. When his wife Elizabeth died in 1792 she was buried in Provincetown at the present-day Winthrop Street Cemetery more than five miles west of her husband’s resting place.

     As for Thomas Ridley in the 240-plus years since he was laid to rest underneath a simple gray slate stone, with his name misspelled as ‘Rideey,’ Cape Cod has evolved. Route 6 passes a half-mile south of his stone with Montano’s Italian Restaurant being the closest civilization to the former fisherman’s remains.

Thomas Ridley's grave with his name misspelled.

     

     For those wishing to lay eyes on Cape Cod’s loneliest grave it is an adventure all on its own finding it. The area of woods in which Ridley’s grave exists, between Pilgrim Heights Road to the north, Head of the Meadow Road to the south, and the Atlantic Ocean to the east is approximately 736 acres in size. Contrast that to the fact that the gravestone itself is little more than a foot tall and the gray color allows it to easily blend in to its surroundings. From the parking lot of Montano’s approximately 1,300-feet east is a 14,000-square-foot sand pit which marks roughly the halfway point to Ridley’s grave. After scaling the sand pit it is roughly 1,200 more feet, northwest from the sand, through the thick Truro woods which leads one face to face with history and reality.

     Thomas Ridley was a real person with a real life and family who caught the deadliest disease of his time and was buried miles from anything as a way to protect those still living. His name and story seem like legend or folklore, however making the trek through the woods that have likely remained the same since he was first buried there, gives one a sense of sadness and loss realizing that a real person rests underfoot in an area so withdrawn from civilization. It truly is Cape Cod’s loneliest grave.

     For more about the history of smallpox visit: History of Smallpox - CDC.gov


View my previous blog posts: In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Panama Club, Hyannis

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Bassett's Wild Animal Farm
                                               

Cape Cod Sunsets 2020 Calendar available at Zazzle here: Cape Cod Sunsets 2020

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com

My 5th book, Cape Cod Nights, is on sale at Amazon.com and through Arcadia Publishing

In My Footsteps: Where the Pilgrims Walked

Check out my video showcasing where the Pilgrims visited on Cape Cod on their journey from England to America in 1620.




The three books of the In My Footsteps series are available at Amazon.com.


In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide

In My Footsteps: A Traveler's Guide to Martha's Vineyard

In My Footsteps: A Traveler's Guide to Nantucket

In My Footsteps: Cape Cod - Highland Lighthouse

Cape Cod (Highland) Lighthouse is located in North Truro, Massachusetts. It is one of the sites featured in Christopher Setterlund's book In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide. It is now available through SchifferBooks.com and Amazon.com as well as most book stores.

Truro on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Cape Cod - Jenny Lind Tower

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available through Schiffer Books!

Truro on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 2: Truro, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 2: Truro, Massachusetts
January 14, 2010

     It may be one of the smallest towns on Cape Cod, but Truro stacks up against any of the others when it comes to natural beauty and historical attractions. Located only thirty-eight miles from Hyannis, the commercial epicenter of Cape Cod, the tiny town of Truro seems to be the closest to how Cape Cod must have appeared when the first Pilgrims set foot on it nearly 400 years ago. Probably known to some simply as the gateway to Provincetown, Truro is relatively unknown to the average traveler. For anybody seeking a real taste of the unchanged natural beauty of Old Cape Cod, take an afternoon or a whole day and drive up to Truro.

Once you get past Wellfleet Center on Route 6, the Cape’s main highway, you will begin to notice just wide open the Outer Cape really is. Established in 1709, Truro is home to many beautiful beaches both on the eastern, Atlantic Ocean, side and the western, Cape Cod Bay, side. The first stop was Ryder Beach(right), a nicely secluded stretch of beach nestled ten minutes from Route 6 on the bay side. Taking a right onto Prince Valley Road will get you there. Though there are several lavish homes in the area surrounding the parking lot, Ryder Beach has a very cozy feel. Perhaps it is due to the fact that it is tucked away down several rural roads and is therefore not easily found. There is extensive erosion control going on at Ryder Beach so be aware of the signs. Otherwise, enjoy the breathtaking views. On a clear day you can see the shoreline from nearby Provincetown all the way out across Cape Cod Bay toward Plymouth and the South Shore.

After leaving Ryder Beach the next area I visited was Pamet Harbor, the birthplace of the American Whaling industry. Named for the tribe of Indians that inhabited the land there was barely a boat to be found in Pamet Harbor during the dead of winter, although the harbor was bustling with activity. At the mouth of the Pamet River a jetty heavily damaged by a recent storm was being rebuilt. The sounds of gigantic boulders being carried and deposited only a few hundred yards away echoed throughout the clear, calm January air. Truro’s harbor houses some amazing scenery which would be appreciated more in the warmer months. Also the Pamet Harbor Yacht & Tennis Club, located adjacent to the harbor, should be visited during a trip to Truro as well.

Next up was another out of the way beach, Ballston Beach. A quick journey across Route 6 via an underpass to the ocean side of Truro leads you to yet another beautiful scenic view. Situated near the end of North Pamet Road, Ballston Beach itself is small; the sandy pathway to the beach was off limits due to an open trench caused by a recent storm. Slightly to the north sit a pair of homes sitting majestically atop a pair of high hills. On this particular day, where the snow was still covering most of the ground, the hills looked like mountains ripe for skiing or sledding(left).

Back across Route 6 sits Corn Hill and Corn Hill Beach. Corn Hill Beach(right), conveniently located on Corn Hill Road, runs out to the mouth of the Pamet River which contains a different view of Pamet Harbor. If an overnight stay is desired the Roseville at Corn Hill cottages are located directly across the street from the beach. With all of the amazing views nearby it is almost recommended. Corn Hill’s name is taken from a group of sixteen pilgrims, led by Miles Standish, who discovered the precious Indian corn on that spot in 1620. Also of note, Ralph Barnaby became the first to exceed Orville Wright’s American record for motorless flight at Corn Hill. In 1929 Barnaby flew for 15 minutes, 8 seconds, breaking the Wright record of 9 minutes, 45 seconds set in 1911. Markers on the edge of the parking lot at Corn Hill Beach designate these events. Following Corn Hill Road to the top leads to a scenic overlook of not only the coastline, but also a marshy area below inhabited by blue herons.

Before leaving Truro, I had to see the most popular attraction, that being Cape Cod Highland Light. Highland Light(left), which is surrounded by the Highland Links Golf Course, is the oldest lighthouse on Cape Cod; the current tower was finished in 1857. It was moved back 453 feet from the eroding cliffs in 1996 to save it from possible collapse. Looking to the south one can see several structures which lay on the grounds of the defunct North Truro Air Force Station. Though it is no longer operational, it is considered government property and therefore cannot be explored. The lighthouse, however, can be climbed from mid-May to mid-October.

After visiting Truro it amazes me that more people have not discovered this scenic jewel of Cape Cod. Take my advice and make it a point to visit not just the places noted here, but others such as Pilgrim Heights that I did not have the time to see. Have fun and happy traveling!


Directions: Ryder Beach: From Rt. 6, left onto Prince Valley Rd. Drive until meeting Old Colony Road, turn right. Left onto Ryder Beach Road, follow to the beach lot.
Pamet Harbor: From Rt. 6, left onto South Pamet Road, turn left at Truro Center Road. Take a slight right onto Depot Road; follow it to the harbor parking lot.
Ballston Beach: From Rt. 6, right onto North Pamet Road, take a quick left onto South Pamet Road, follow it to the end.
Corn Hill: From Rt. 6, left onto Castle Road which turns into Castle Hill Road. Follow it; this will become Corn Hill Road. Beach and overlook are on it.
Cape Cod Highland Light: From Rt. 6 take right onto Highland Road exit. A large sign designates this exit. Follow the signs to the lighthouse.

References: Cape Cod Highland Light
Truro Chamber of Commerce

Truro on Dwellable