In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 79: Swampscott, Massachusetts
September 8, 2010
Formerly a getaway for the rich Swampscott still is filled with a wealth of history and natural beauty. It was originally known as M'squ'ompskut which means ‘Standing Red Rock’ by the Native Americans. Though not as much of a destination for the wealthy as it was at the turn of the 20th century the town is one of the most affluent in the state. One of the very first millionaires
, Ebenezer Philips, made his fortune here in the late 18th century. Philips learned the process of drying fish from the local Naumkeag Indians which led to greater shelf life for the fish. Swampscott became world famous in 1808 when Ebenezer Thorndike invented the lobster pot
which revolutionized lobster harvesting.
, Ebenezer Philips, made his fortune here in the late 18th century. Philips learned the process of drying fish from the local Naumkeag Indians which led to greater shelf life for the fish. Swampscott became world famous in 1808 when Ebenezer Thorndike invented the lobster pot which revolutionized lobster harvesting. |
| The view of Boston from Swampscott |
First settled as a part of neighboring Lynn in 1629, Swampscott has an amazing view of the Boston skyline as it sits only twelve miles to the south across Nahant Bay and Broad Sound. A great place to take in the Boston skyline is along Humphrey Street. I found an area just passed Cap’n Jacks Waterfront Inn with parking on the road, railings and stairs down to the shore. On a clear day it gives you an amazing view of Boston as well as a classic taste of the North Shore with the many rocks dotting the coastline. There is a small green park within sight of this area which is close to the Swampscott Yacht Club. Other beaches such as Preston Beach on Atlantic Avenue give you more great views of the many rock islands off of the coast of the North Shore.
I particularly enjoyed Preston Beach which is right on the border with Marblehead. Though the parking area is small there is a lot of stuff to see. First off there is a really cool sundial 
with large rectangular stones around a center stone circle. The longitude and latitude of the area is noted as well as lines where the seasons would change. Upon closer inspection there were also words inscribed on the sides of the center stone including the words ‘Be Inspired By Love,’ which was a nice touch.
with large rectangular stones around a center stone circle. The longitude and latitude of the area is noted as well as lines where the seasons would change. Upon closer inspection there were also words inscribed on the sides of the center stone including the words ‘Be Inspired By Love,’ which was a nice touch. |
| Elihu Thomson House |
An historic spot to visit is the Elihu Thomson House. Built in 1889 this home is now the Swampscott Town Hall but it was originally built for the noted inventor and industrialist Thomson who founded the Thomson-Houston Electric Company in 1880. This development was important as twelve years later, in 1892, Thomson’s company merged with Thomas Edison’s Edison General Electric Company to form General Electric. In addition to the enormous achievement of being a cofounder of General Electric
Elihu Thomson was a prolific inventor with more than 700 patents to his name. He also served as president of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (M.I.T) from 1920-1923 before his death in 1937.
Elihu Thomson was a prolific inventor with more than 700 patents to his name. He also served as president of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (M.I.T) from 1920-1923 before his death in 1937. I enjoy checking out the various town and city halls as they normally are surrounded by items of historical significance such as war memorials. Swampscott’s Town Hall is one of the most impressive, possibly because it was first a private residence. Only the blue sign near the road gives away the fact that this building is used by the town.
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| Looking down Monument Avenue toward Nahant Bay. |
As is the case with most other town and city halls the area surrounding the Elihu Thomson House was filled with other historic and beautiful spots. The First Church in Swampscott, Congregational, established in 1845 is one such area just across the street from the Thomson House. There is also a really nice rural rotary surrounded by flowers. I enjoyed this spot because of the view you get looking down Monument Avenue toward Nahant Bay.
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| John Humphrey House |
Another historic home that needs to be seen is the John Humphrey House on Paradise Road. With the oldest parts of the house having been built in 1637 it is a marvelous piece of early-American architecture. It is said to have been built for John Humphrey who was the first Deputy Governor of the Massachusetts Colony under John Winthrop. In addition to the fairly accurate depiction of period furnishings in the house there is also a secret room on the second floor. This was built in case the family had to hide from an Indian attack, a sort of Colonial ‘panic room.’
Swampscott is yet another North Shore town that will enchant you with its views and historical sites. The views of Boston from areas such as Preston Beach are amazing and will probably take up most of any visitor’s time. However be sure to set aside a little time for the historic Elihu Thomson House and John Humphrey House. They will not disappoint and neither will Swampscott. Have fun and happy traveling!
Directions: Preston Beach: From Rt. 1 heading north, turn right at Essex St. Continue onto Lincoln Ave. through the rotary. Turn right at Ballard St. Turn left onto Rt. 107, right onto Washington Street. Left onto Rt. 1-A, right at Ocean St., left at Metropolitan Park St., continue onto Humphrey St., continue onto Atlantic Ave. Drive 1 mile, beach is on right just before ‘Entering Marblehead’ sign.
Elihu Thomson House: From Rt. 1A heading north take the 2nd exit at rotary to continue on Rt. 1A. Turn left at Market Street, staying on 1A. Turn right at Broad St., staying on 1A. Turn right at Elmwood St. Elihu Thomason House/Town Hall is #22.
John Humphrey House: From Rt. 1A heading north take the 2nd exit at rotary to continue on Rt. 1A. Turn left at Market Street, staying on 1A. Turn right at Broad St., staying on 1A. Broad St. becomes Paradise Road, still stays Rt. 1A. Humphrey House is #99.
References: Swampscott, Ma. - Official Town Site
in 2009 it ranked 14th as far as America’s Most Livable Cities, meaning Peabody is also a great place to build a life. On this day I was just up for a visit and was very happy with all that I saw.
when it resided on Endicott Street. It was moved to the Felton-Smith Historic Site in 1990 and contains some rare firefighting artifacts from Peabody and the North Shore. 
, snoring at that I might add, there was also a solitary chicken that had escaped its pen and was trying to get back in while the other chickens all clucked at it. When I informed the nice people inside the farm stand they told me that chicken is a master escape artist. The animals also included a llama and what I think was an emu, it would not come over to me. The sheer size of the farmland was incredible, it extended all out as far as I could see. The Fire Museum sat majestically on the other side of the hill with nothing in the way to obstruct my view. 
. The one thing I did not realize was that the restaurant itself was located inside the Northshore Mall.
I might have had a much more difficult time making it from Point A to Point B.
. These were set up in an area giving a great close up view of Marblehead Light and a more surprising view of Bakers Island Light located about five miles from Fort Sewall on the outskirts of Salem Harbor.
. It is a beautiful building with its checkered clock tower, it is clearly visible from many places around the town and I found it a great backdrop for many photos of mine.
in New York. The lighthouse, which honestly looks like a disposable ink cartridge for a pen, stands tall on a cliff overlooking Marblehead Harbor, its green light visible for seven nautical miles. It is my favorite lighthouse I have seen thus far and seem to not be able to control myself when snapping photos of it, almost like a paparazzo.
built in Beverly in 1781. The house is only the beginning of the importance of the Cabot name in Beverly and before that in Boston. The Cabot family lived in the Beacon Hill section of Boston and were one of the ‘Boston Brahmins’ or First Families of Boston. The Cabot family’s first business in Boston upon their arrival from France was that of dory making, dory’s are small, shallow draft-boats.
in 1697 which challenged the legality and references to the Bible used in the Salem Witch Trials. The house itself, in which Hale lived from 1694 until his death in 1700, is very unassuming but for its pale yellow exterior. There are several large beech trees in the back of the house which are accompanied by an engraved stone explaining that they were planted in 1937 by the Beverly Improvement Society.
leased the cottage. It was after the summer of 1910 that the Taft family was informed that the Evans family, which controlled the area then known as Burgess Point, planned to build an Italian 
on that spot. The sunken rose garden with several brick steps leading down into the maze of flowers and beautifully manicured grass has been the sight of many weddings and other social gathering in its one hundred years of existence. I was in awe of the sights and scents of the garden especially as the warm sun bathed the garden in bright light.
side of town was formerly known as Jones River Pond. It was used to harvest ice during the cold winters which would then be shipped all over the world. Kingston was very successful in the business of ice harvesting and renamed Jones River Pond Silver Lake in the early 1800’s for marketing purposes at the height of the ice harvesting exportation. The ice harvesting on Silver Lake ended around 1870 but the lake retains its name to this day.
on the green as well as a Civil War monument but the building itself is a hollowed out shell.
. There are other places I am sure to check out the Jones River but this one caught my eye due to the fact that there were several other historic sites within walking distance.
. John Bradford was a First Deputy to the Plymouth Courts and eventually became a Selectman and a Representative to the General Assembly in Boston. The house served as the Bradford’s homestead for sixty-two years and was lived in continuously until it was purchased by the Jones River Village Club, predecessor to the current historical society, in 1921.
spoke to followers near the spot where the marker is laid. There is a powerful quote from Garrison at the bottom of the marker which reads: “I am in earnest. I will not equivocate. I will not excuse. I will not retreat a single inch – And I will be heard.”
whose work has been mentioned previously in my Easton and Fairhaven articles. I was not able to find any sort of markers as to where this riot took place, but the railroad station still stands although it is now a restaurant and bar.
along the shore and ironically there were three teenagers doing the same on a small dock. Further along the southern shore there is a dam which allows water to flow into a creek. There is a great vantage point when you stand on the wooden bridge which crosses over the dam. I enjoyed simply listening to the sound of the rushing water as it passed underneath me. There is also a twenty-foot high boulder along the shore which makes for some great 
if you care to climb it. It is an easy climb so it should be taken advantage of.
