In My Footsteps: The First Martha's Vineyard Trip

            First let me start by saying, yes I am a lifelong Cape Codder.  My family dates back to Deacon John Doane who helped settle the town of Eastham in 1644.  I am proud of my long history on this peninsula. Now, that being said, I will admit that I had never once been to either island of Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket, until now.

            I had decided that with all of the trips I had taken across New England it was about time that I visit a spot so close by but which seemed so far away.  By ferry Martha’s Vineyard is only a forty-five minute ride, the island is easily visible from the shores of Woods Hole, Falmouth, and Mashpee.

Ocean Park in Oak Bluffs

            The 100-square-mile Vineyard is purported to be named after the daughter of English explorer Bartholomew Gosnold who died in infancy.  He first sailed to the island in 1602.  There is a very long and rich history there and I wanted to make sure that I saw as much of it as I could upon arrival.  The ferry docked at Oak Bluffs and I found my first place to visit stretched out before me along the shore. 

            Ocean Park, situated right along Seaview Avenue, is seven acres of wide open space surrounded by beautiful homes.  Near the center of the park is a bandstand gazebo and it is the site of the annual Fourth of July fireworks in Oak Bluffs.  I enjoyed the man-made pond with a small fountain as it was inhabited by man geese which did not mind posing for pictures.  It would have been easy on a warm early-autumn day to sit back and enjoy more time at Ocean Park but I knew I only had a set number of hours on The Vineyard and needed to keep moving.

            Since bringing a car over on the ferry is a little pricy ($137 Round-Trip for a small car), I decided to rent a bicycle for the day.  Before I went I had chosen Anderson’s Bikes due to its low prices and the fact that they had been around since 1971 with the same family running it.  I was not disappointed with the hybrid street bike from Fuji I rented.  It reminded me of a spin class bike, a great ride.  Since it was technically my first time on the island I let the woman there give me her

East Chop Light

whole speech about what to see around the area.  I even got a map just like a real tourist.

            Once equipped with a bike I used the gps on my phone to set out to my next destination.  As many of you know I am a huge fan of lighthouses, love them, so it was only natural that my first trip to Martha’s Vineyard would include as many lighthouses as time would allow.  First up was East Chop Lighthouse.

            Located on East Chop Drive in Oak Bluffs the lighthouse was not difficult to find.  The ride out to it was spectacular as being on a bike made it possible to really soak in the atmosphere of the small island town.  East Chop Light sits inside a picket fence on a small plot of land overlooking the ocean, passing ferries and Cape Cod in the distance.  It was deserted when I arrived and it allowed me the chance to take many photos and also simply enjoy laying eyes on this landmark for the first time.  The current East Chop Light is the third built on the site with the original being built in 1869. The current tower was erected in 1878.  The view is amazing and worth spending some time there.

            Of course I had to follow up East Chop Light with the corresponding West Chop Light over in Vineyard Haven.  The ride there was just as much fun as the lighthouse itself.  The route leads you down along Vineyard Haven Harbor.  This is the port where the ferries come in year-round, the port in Oak Bluffs is only seasonal.  There are many beautiful little side roads along the shore, some of which I saw up close when I could not hear my gps and became temporarily lost.

            There are a

West Chop Light

few differences between East and West Chop Light, the main one being that West Chop is on Coast Guard property and thus not able to be seen too closely.  The original West Chop Light was built in 1817, and the current tower, like East Chop, is the third built on the site. The current lighthouse was erected in 1891.  Despite being fifty-feet behind a picket fence it is still worth the ride to see this lighthouse, the ride out itself is just as good as I mentioned.    

            After seeing East and West Chop I decided the only way to continue on The Vineyard was to hop on the Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road bike trail and ride down to see Edgartown Lighthouse on the harbor.  When traveling on a bicycle you notice how hilly The Vineyard is away from the shore, it was a bit of a chore but great exercise getting down to Edgartown. 

            Many spots in Edgartown were featured in the movie Jaws and the entire town is beautiful with a special feel to it as soon as you arrive.  One particular spot

Old Whaling Church, Main St. Edgartown

that captures that feel is the ground of the Vincent House Museum.  The house itself is the oldest residence on the island, built in 1672.  The house is believed to have been built by William Vincent who was one of the early settlers of Edgartown’s Great Harbor area.  The Martha’s Vineyard Historical Preservation Society gained the house in 1977 and moved it from Great Pond in Edgartown to its current location.  It shares the ground with a pair of other historical sites that add to the special feel of this area.

            The Old Whaling Church was designed by Frederick Baylies and built by whaling captains in 1843.  It is an impressive site towering above Main Street with its beautiful columns. It has now been transformed into a performing arts center and is very popular for weddings.  The church coupled with the narrow street, quaint homes, and white picket fences made me want to simply sit on a bench and watch the world go by.  It seems like much of Martha’s Vineyard has that same sort of feel to it.   

            Not far from this stretch of historical sites is Edgartown Lighthouse.  By the time I had gotten to this point my legs were very tired but there was no way I wasn’t going to walk out to where the lighthouse was on the water.  It is within sight of Chappaquiddick with the ferries making the very short trip back and forth.  Ironically the original Edgartown Lighthouse was destroyed in the Hurricane of 1938 and when it came time for it to be replaced it was Rear Range Lighthouse from Ipswich, Massachusetts that was loaded on a barge and brought down to the harbor entrance

Edgartown Light

.  That fact made the experience even more special and unique. 

Though the amazing Harbor View Hotel is nearby it felt as though Edgartown Lighthouse was in its own world; the lapping ocean waves drown out all sounds but for a few stray boat horns.  I sat on the steps of the lighthouse to enjoy the atmosphere for a while.  My first trip to Martha’s Vineyard had been a huge success and would not be my last for sure.

My ride back to Oak Bluffs took place along the Edgartown-Oak Bluffs Road bike path.  Much of this ride gives you spectacular views of the surrounding water along the Joseph Sylvia State Beach.  It was a fantastic end to a trip that was a long time coming.  I passed by Ocean Park near sunset, coming full circle from where I had begun my day.  Now I can say yes I have been to Martha’s Vineyard, and plan on going back as soon as I possibly can.  I am sure I don’t have to suggest that all of you do the same.  Have fun and happy traveling!

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, Barnes&Noble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions: East Chop Lighthouse:  From the ferry port go straight on Lake Avenue, take the 1^st right onto East Chop Drive, follow it 1.1 miles to lighthouse on the right.

                    West Chop Lighthouse:  From the ferry go straight on Lake Avenue, continue onto New York Avenue, follow it for a mile, take a slight left onto Temahigan Avenue, follow it .3 miles, take a slight right onto Eastville Avenue.  Continue straight onto Beach Road, follow it 1.4 miles, turn right onto Main Street, follow it 2 miles to lighthouse on right.

                    Edgartown Lighthouse:  From the ferry go left onto Seaview Avenue, follow it 1.1 miles, continue onto Beach Road, follow it 2.8 miles, keep right to stay on Beach Road, follow 1.1 more miles.  Continue onto Upper Main Street, continue onto Main Street, follow this .3 miles, turn right onto N Water Street, follow .4 miles, lighthouse is on right.

References:  Steamship Authority

            Anderson's Bike Rentals

            Martha's Vineyard Chamber of Commerce

Oak Bluffs on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Cape Cod - Jenny Lind Tower

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available through Schiffer Books!

Truro on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: A Walk Around the Dwellable Travel App

            Named one of the ‘10 Best Travel Apps For Your New iPad’ by CNN the Dwellable App certainly lives up to that lofty praise.  Upon opening it the first thing that’s noticed is the gentle lapping ocean waves and a simple search feature. Most potential travelers will likely decide on a beach destination with this tempting and soothing imagery. Touching the search feature on the home screen causes a list of popular spots on the app pop up. This first step maybe all that is needed to find what you desire.

            Being a Cape Codder I chose this as my destination for a trial run. I was immediately amazed by the colorful photos. This was second only to the ease of finding what you are looking for. Cape Cod itself is divided into five subcategories: Upper Cape, Outer Cape, Mid Cape, Lower Cape, and Just Off Cape.  Each subcategory is accompanied by a number of rentals which can be scrolled through by touching an arrow. This is much easier than simply scrolling through hundreds of random listings.

            The most popular destinations, as far as number of rentals, are listed at the top in descending numerical order. As you become more specific in your selections the Dwellable App gets even better. Each individual property comes complete with several bright colorful photos that are so easy to scroll through that I found myself checking many different properties just to look at the photos. If a straight list is not your thing the app has a map feature with pins noting where rentals are located in the area you are looking to stay. There is also a ‘dateboard’ showing available properties in that area on the left and a calendar of scrollable dates on the right. These details make the timely chore of finding the right vacation rental seemingly disappear.

These property listings give you the pertinent information and much more. Not only do most give prices for renting each property but some also get prices for specific times and a calendar on screen to show you when said property is available. The property is described in depth with location, amenities, nearby attractions, and a little extra love which makes it feel so much cozier and less sterile than many other travel sites and apps. There is nothing important left out and at times it’s as if the owner is speaking directly to you.

            Contact information is highlighted on screen making your rental only a click away literally. The app is always adding new properties, evident by the call for property owners and managers to add listings in such areas as Rhode Island. If you are looking for a break from the same old sterile travel apps I highly recommend the Dwellable App. It is run by great people and the properties are nearly all owned by regular people, not hotel chains. It is easy to use and very visually appealing. Plus it’s free, so what’s not to like about that?

An example of a Cape Cod listing with colorful photos and contact info.

The home page complete with soothing ocean waves.

In My Footsteps: Cadillac Mountain, Acadia National Park

            Acadia National Park is a place made up of dozens of beautiful natural locations each worthy of its own article.  I spent a day there and only scratched the surface of what there was to see.  If at all possible one should set aside several days to truly experience this wonderful area.  If that is not feasible there is one spot that must be placed at the top of any visitor’s list: Cadillac Mountain.

            The summit is 1,528 feet making it the highest point within 25 miles of the water along the U.S. East Coast.  Needless to say the views from the summit are some of the most incredible you will find in New England and perhaps the country. 

            Originally called Green Mountain it was renamed in 1918 after French explorer Antoine Laumet de La Mothe, sieur de Cadillac.  He was given the parcel of land consisting of Mount Desert Island in Maine when the area was known as New France.

            My time at Acadia was planned around making it to the summit of Cadillac Mountain to watch the sunset.  I had stayed a week in Maine in October and this particular day was warmest, nearly 70 degrees.  It must have slipped my mind that I was driving up a mountain and it might be cooler up there.

            The 3 ½ mile long summit road is beautiful but also slightly dangerous.  There are several points along the steep incline where the only things between your vehicle and a sharp drop are well placed boulders.  As much as I enjoyed taking a gander down toward the nearby town of Bar Harbor I knew that it would be much smarter for me to keep my eyes on the road.

            Though technically not the summit I stopped and parked at the Blue Hill Overlook very near the top.  The first thing I noticed was just how many other people had the same idea as me to go watch the sunset.  The overlook is magnificent.  It is a gently sloping smooth rockface.  Obviously being up as high as it is there is nothing blocking the view of the surroundings, and what a view it is.

            There were many people scattered along the rockface, some sitting on chairs, others on blankets.  Many more people were standing at the edge of the parking lot with cameras and binoculars.  The next thing I noticed after the people was the cold.  It had been in the upper-60’s during the day at ground level, it was about 30 degrees on top of Cadillac Mountain.  I was not fully prepared; my hands were freezing cold pretty quickly.  

            To keep my mind off of the cold I focused on the vast expanse of scenery in all directions.  To my right was Bar Harbor where I had spent the earlier part of the day.  I started taking photos of everything.  In a neat twist I kept trying to line up the horizon on my camera, to keep it straight.  It wouldn’t happen since at that height I could actually make out the curve of the Earth.  That was just another small part of a remarkable sunset.

            I was lucky as well that it ended up being a partly cloudy evening, perfect for catching colors.  It would have been a shame to scale the mountain only for the weather to get cloudy.  It’s not as if I could simply drive up there again night after night, this was a one shot deal. 

            It ended up being a nearly perfect sunset, complete with lots of photos and a video.  I stayed for a while after the sun went down to enjoy the view of Bar Harbor’s lights and the unlimited number of stars overhead.  I would have stayed longer but it was getting colder.  I cannot recommend spending an evening watching the sunset atop Cadillac Mountain.  Of course, weather determines just what you will see.  Plan accordingly, but prepare to be dazzled, it is worth the trip in almost any conditions.  Have fun and happy traveling.

In My Footsteps - Acadia National Park

Cadillac Mountain, Acadia National Park:  Cadillac Mountain Summit Road – Take I-295 N to Exit 49, turn right onto Rt. 201 N.  Follow 4.4 miles, turn left onto Brunswick Ave, continue onto Rt. 9 E, after ½ mile turn left to stay onto Rt. 9 E.  Follow to traffic circle, continue straight onto Bangor Street, .6 miles turn right onto N Belfast Ave.  After a mile turn right onto Rt. 3 E, follow it 100 miles into Bar Harbor.  Turn right onto Eagle Lake Rd, follow a mile turn right onto Paradise Hill Rd., take 1^st left to stay on road.  Turn left onto Park Loop Rd., follow it a mile, turn left onto the mountain road.

Acadia Magic.com - Cadillac Mountain

Acadia National Park on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Great Blue Hill - Milton, Mass.

            More than a hill, less than a mountain.  Great Blue Hill is part of the larger Blue Hills Reservation in Milton and Canton, Massachusetts.  It is a perfect hike for those who enjoy hiking but it is also small enough, 635 feet to the top, that anybody can enjoy it.  The name Blue Hills came from the first European explorers who noticed a bluish hue on the slopes of the hills when seen from a distance.

 

However, if hiking does not appeal there is also a Trailside Museum at ground level as well.  This features some cultural and natural history exhibits and also live animals outside.  When I was there I got to see deer, snow owls, hawks, and a playful otter that seemed to do tricks for me while I watched it in its tank.

            The hike up to the top of Great Blue Hill is the main attraction.  The hike begins on trails.  It’s a gradual climb which leads you across a paved road at one point.  That road is not for the average driver, it is for those who are authorized to visit the Blue Hill Observatory and Science Center at the summit.  Those are usually school groups or weather professionals. 

            In the summer the hike is much easier.  Add in some snow and it might get a little trickier.  The climb is never too steep but believe me when you’re trudging through six inches of snow it makes it a little slow going.  If there is a choice definitely choose warmer months for a hike.  There is skiing on Great Blue Hill also if that tickles your fancy.

            If you cannot visit Great Blue Hill when it’s warm there are some advantages.  One thing I noticed was the fact that there were hardly any other people along the way.  I was truly alone with my thoughts surrounded by the beauty of nature.  As you ascend to the summit of Great Blue Hill the scenery is not any different from any other forest walk.  That changes as you approach the top.  Suddenly it gets brighter and through the trees you begin to catch glimpses of the tremendous views awaiting you.

             At the top you can see all around you for miles.  There is a picnic area for use in warmer months.  In winter you can hear the sounds of skiers not too far away.  Though the views from the summit are spectacular there is a way to top that.  Eliot Tower is part of a stone building at the summit that can be climbed to the observation deck.  Built over seventy years ago the view from Eliot Tower is spectacular.  The Boston skyline was my favorite site to see from the tower; it’s difficult to miss.  I braved the snow and an icy floor in the tower for that view and it didn’t disappoint.  I made sure to shoot a video of my time there to whet the appetite of any potential travelers.

            Great Blue Hill has so much to offer.  The Trailside Museum has exhibits and animals, there is skiing in winter, a weather station for potential school trips, and of course the beautiful views from the summit at Eliot Tower.  Summer or winter it really does not matter, anytime is a great time to pay this spot a visit.  Have fun and happy traveling!

In My Footsteps: Great Blue Hill

Great Blue Hill:  Trailside Museum, 1904 Canton Ave (Route 138), Milton.  Take Rt I-93 to exit 2B (Milton, Rt 138 North). Follow the exit ramp to the first set of traffic lights. Go straight through the lights and the parking lot is 0.5 miles ahead on the right. The museum is at the end of the parking lot.

The summit trail in winter.

Friends of the Blue Hills.org

A deer at the Trailside Museum.

Coming up on Eliot Tower at the summit.

View of the Boston skyline from Eliot Tower.

In My Footsteps: Purgatory Chasm

            One of the most incredible spots I have visited thus far is also one of the most dangerous.  It is located in the town of Sutton, Massachusetts tucked in the picturesque Blackstone River Valley.  It was designated a state park in 1919.  The basics are that Purgatory Chasm is a naturally formed, quarter-mile long granite gorge.  The walls on either side of the chasm rise as high as seventy-feet.

            It does not take very long to see how imposing Purgatory Chasm is.  The wooden sign pointing to the beginning is within sight of the opening.  The scattered boulders around the entrance make it seem virtually impassible, and at some points I thought it was.  There are warnings as soon as you begin your journey.  I highly recommend only attempting this during nearly perfect weather.  Even the slightest inclement weather would make hiking through the chasm a dangerous nightmare.

            There are some safe patches where you will walk the bare ground, but those are offset by large boulders that must be traversed as well.  Most of the dangerous work has been done, there are blue lines marking the safest route to take along the floor of the chasm.  One thing to watch for are the stream of chipmunks darting across the chasm floor, it became a game for me to see just how many of them I caught sight of.  There are spots along the chasm route that have unique names to them.  They include: His Majesty’s Cave, Lovers Leap, Devil’s Pulpit, and Devil’s Corn Crib.

            Though hiking the cliffs of the chasm is discouraged there is nothing stopping someone from trying.  I witnessed several people doing just that.  Seeing them make it safely to the top of the sloping rocks I decided to find my own place to try the same.  Since I am writing this I obviously succeeded.  The climb was not overly difficult, especially since I chose an easier path to the top.  I wanted to see the chasm from above but not kill myself attempting it.  For those of you wishing to see it from above but not willing to risk life and limb fear not, I shot a video of my time there and I am including a link to it.

            An incredible natural spot, Purgatory Chasm is somewhere that everyone should visit.  In addition to the gorge there are two miles of hiking trails around the gorge as well.  There is also a playground near the visitor’s center for kids who might not be able to safely navigate the chasm.  Of course the chasm itself is the main attraction as it should be.  Use care and caution when crossing the quarter-mile granite chasm, but also take the time to enjoy the natural beauty as well.  This is a true gem in the Blackstone River Valley.  Have fun and happy traveling!

   

Purgatory Chasm:  198 Purgatory Rd., Sutton, Massachusetts

            Take I-495 to Exit 13B for I-95, take Exit 4 to get on I-295.  Take Exit 9B for Rt. 146, take Exit 6 for Purgatory Rd.  Keep left at fork for Purgatory Chasm, destination will be on right.

Mass.gov/DCR - Purgatory Chasm

In My Footsteps - Purgatory Chasm (My YouTube Video)

The entrance

Lovers Leap

How the chasm looks from the inside.

People I saw rock climbing before I tried it myself.

Looking down from above.

Central Massachusetts on Dwellable