In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 93: Lubec, Maine
October 5, 2010
The eastern-most town in the United States, Lubec is a very small town with some really big attractions. As small and remote as Lubec is it was actually one of my main destinations during my time in Maine. For one thing it was as close as I could get to Canada without a passport. Second it is the home of a place I had been waiting to see for quite some time as well: West Quoddy Head Lighthouse.
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| West Quoddy Head Lighthouse |
Getting to Lubec was an adventure all its own as it sits 150 miles from Owl’s Head which is where I made my home base during my Maine trip. Granted it is not that difficult to find as the drive consists of staying on Route 1 all the way there but the towns become fewer and further between once you pass through Ellsworth. After I passed through Machias there was nearly nothing in the way of civilization but for sprinkles of homes and a few stores. It may sound boring but to me it was a beautiful and peaceful trip to an anticipated location.
West Quoddy Head Lighthouse was a place I had seen photos of but had never expected to actually stand in front of. It is called West Quoddy Head because there is in fact an East Quoddy Head Lighthouse located on Campobello Island across Lubec Channel in New Brunswick, Canada. What makes West Quoddy Head unique is its red and white stripes which make it look like a big brick barbershop pole. Built in 1857 the lighthouse sits on the grounds of Quoddy Head State Park, just east of the town of Lubec. It is a very remote area, much like the town of Lubec is as well, which is something that adds to the sort of mystique that West Quoddy Head Lighthouse has for me.
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| Entering Lubec |
It was an unbelievable experience from the beginning as the parking area is up on a hill from the lighthouse so I had to walk down as it slowly got larger until I was able to reach out and touch the big barbershop pole. There is a monument marking it as the eastern-most lighthouse in the eastern-most town in the country. Bordered on the north by a chain link fence since it sits above a cliff there is a great view across Quoddy Narrows to Campobello Island. It was the first time I had seen anything but United States soil, despite the fact that I did not step foot on it. Not having a passport 
I did not wish to get into any trouble for a few photos.
I did not wish to get into any trouble for a few photos. For those who wish to make the trip to Lubec last, which I recommend, there is the Quoddy Head Station only a few minutes from the lighthouse. It is a restored Coast Guard Station which now serves as an amazing motel. There is room for thirty people and offers fantastic rates and views. As I was snapping photos of this spot I remember that The Beatles
‘Hey Jude’ was playing on my IPod and I found myself lost in the moment of the big finale standing in the middle of Quoddy Head Road soaking in my accomplishment of actually making it all the way to Lubec and West Quoddy Head Lighthouse. I will never forget how I felt at that point in time.
‘Hey Jude’ was playing on my IPod and I found myself lost in the moment of the big finale standing in the middle of Quoddy Head Road soaking in my accomplishment of actually making it all the way to Lubec and West Quoddy Head Lighthouse. I will never forget how I felt at that point in time. |
| Franklin D. Roosevelt Bridge crossing into Canada |
The town of Lubec has the honor of not only being the eastern-most point in the United States but also of being the smallest town I have visited thus far with just over 1,600 people. It was named for the town of Lübeck, Germany and incorporated in 1811. Being that it was as close as I was going to get to Canada I decided to push that limit by parking at one of the many boat launching spots along Lubec Channel. This one along Commercial Street had a breakwater stretching out into the channel which gave me an awesome look at Mulholland Point Lighthouse only a few hundred feet across the water on the shores of Campobello Island.
Mulholland Point Light, red and white like the Canadian flag, was built in 1884 and was used to aide in navigation until the completion of the Franklin D. Roosevelt
Bridge was completed in 1962. The bridge’s navigational lights made the lighthouse obsolete and it was decommission shortly thereafter. Campobello Island is forever linked to Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt who owned a summer cottage on the island although Eleanor visited it more than FDR once he became President.
Bridge was completed in 1962. The bridge’s navigational lights made the lighthouse obsolete and it was decommission shortly thereafter. Campobello Island is forever linked to Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt who owned a summer cottage on the island although Eleanor visited it more than FDR once he became President. |
| Mulholland Point Lighthouse |
While standing at the end of the breakwater shooting the lighthouse I was also privileged to see three seals fishing in the rapid current of Lubec Channel. Having not seen many seals in my life I was just as fascinated with watching them play and dive for fish as I was with being so close to the Canadian border. I was so close that I could see the cars being stopped on the other side of the Franklin D. Roosevelt Bridge at the border guard station.
It was fitting I thought that I had gone literally as far as I could go in the United States and was standing there with the entire country behind me. Ironically as well was the fact that this day was the warmest of all of the days I had spent in Maine despite it being so far north. Lubec may be the smallest town I have visited so far in my travels but West Quoddy Head Light helps to make it one of my favorites. Even though it is a long trip out for most people I believe that the charm of the eastern-most town in the United States makes the trip worthwhile. Have fun and happy traveling!
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For a short video featuring West Quoddy Head Light and Lubec, Maine check out my YouTube page: Lubec, Maine
Directions: West Quoddy Head Lighthouse: Take Rt. 1 up the coast toward Lubec. In Whiting when Rt. 1 is aka River Rd., turn right onto Rt. 189. Follow 10 miles, turn right at S. Lubec Rd. Take a slight left at Quoddy Head Rd., follow it to the parking lot overlooking the lighthouse.
Commercial Street Parking Area: Take Rt. 1 up the coast toward Lubec. In Whiting when Rt. 1 is aka River Rd., turn right onto Rt. 189. Follow Rt. 189 into Lubec, turn left at Eureka St., turn right onto Commercial Street. Parking area is on left where Commercial St. meets Pleasant St. Mulholland Point Light is straight across the water.
References: Quoddy Head Station
as the photographer I would most like to emulate. I saw his photos from Schoodic Point in 1949 at Acadia and hoped that someday I could make the trip to see these same natural wonders. Never in my wildest dreams could I have imagined how life-changing this trip would be.
. who I previously had discovered as the designer of the unique Rockery in 
.’ This 520-foot mountain is very popular with hikers as it is not nearly as difficult to navigate as Cadillac Mountain. As I said before though, it is nearly impossible to get to see everything at Acadia in one day and so the Beehive is a spot that will remain for another day.
were splashed with one of these waves. After a while it becomes a sort of game to see when the next loud crashing wave will hit, or when the next wave will spray high enough into the air to soak onlookers. I had to dive out of the way of one rogue wave but was lucky enough to escape this spot virtually dry. I could have stayed and listened to the sounds of thunder forever but there was a spot I had been waiting to see for many years and I needed to get there before dark.
, however this article will attempt to showcase what else this place of natural beauty has to offer.
is a can’t miss. 
are scattered among the trees with one spot having a roof over the table. There is a steep path which leads to the water as well. It is sort of like getting a taste of Acadia before visiting it.
’ scene with the towering Cadillac Mountain dominating the horizon. The rapidly changing foliage on either side of the pond caught my eye and led me toward the middle where the mountain stood. The pond is very narrow at this end and the mountain seemed to sit in the perfect spot where the majority of it could be seen. I felt like I could have stayed at the end of that dock for the rest of the day but there were more places to be seen on Mount Desert Island.
but that spot is worthy of its own article.
logo and Debbah Gifts with its lobster logo and Bar Harbor spelled out ‘Baa-Haa-Baa.’ A walk along these streets, even in October, was a great experience even if they were tremendously crowded. I found out why later in my trip.
in the center filled with some colorful rocks. I took a walk up the stairs and got an unbelievable view of Agamont Park down at the water. Before heading that way I snapped some photos of the old buildings on Main Street. Sherman’s Book Store was a place that I knew must have some history to it and I was right. It was originally opened by Bill Sherman in 1886 and back then it actually printed the local newspaper on its premises. Nowadays the paper is no longer printed there but Sherman’s does have a total of four locations in the mid-coast area so I think it is safe to say that not printing the newspaper has not hurt their business.
’ scene; one of many that I saw during my trip. There is also the Shore Path which is exactly what it says. The nearly mile long walk along the rocky Maine coast is breathtaking. Originally created in 1880 it begins at Agamont Park with connections at a few streets which allow you to travel back into town or continue the full distance. It reminded me a lot of the Cliff Walk in 
, Virginia in 1607. It was called by its Native American name of ‘Cushnoc’ until 1797 when it was incorporated as a part of Massachusetts as the town of Harrington. Shortly thereafter it was renamed Augusta after Augusta Dearborn the daughter of noted American physician and Revolutionary War veteran Henry Dearborn.
Benedict Arnold and Aaron Burr stayed at the garrison while building bateaux, a small flat bottomed boat.
and leads to Fort Western along the Kennebec River. It is here that you begin to feel how small the state capital is as I don’t know of many others that could make you feel so isolated at times as I did walking along the Kennebec. The state capitol building’s dome poking up from the trees across the river was a magnificent sight that I believe can only be seen in Augusta. As isolated as I felt during this walk it actually added to the mystique and overall experience when I came upon the Kennebec Arsenal.
will do a little better job.
. Born in 
, that the President secured him a job at the New York Customs Office which he held during Roosevelt’s tenure in office.
, located on Dennis Street. Her best known work is a children’s poem entitled ‘Eletelephony’ which needs to be read to be appreciated. Ironically the sign on the white picket fence in front of the home labels it as the ‘Yellow House,’ built in 1814. While the house is indeed that very color I thought maybe there would have been a sign alerting passers-by that a famous poet had lived there. Or, perhaps there was and I simply missed it?
to the left of the door of the small building, it has been quite weathered but that adds to its charm.