In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Bartholomew Gosnold

     Every story begins somewhere. Today in the midst of the 21st century, Cape Cod is several centuries into its existence as a European-settled land. The Pilgrims first landed at Provincetown before shoving off to Plymouth in 1620. Rumors have persisted for many years that Leif Eriksson, or his brother Thorvald, was the first to set foot on Cape Cod around 1000. For all of the debate of who was first to arrive on the Cape, there is no debate as to the person who gave this peninsula its name. That distinction goes to England’s own Bartholomew Gosnold. Here is his story before and after landing on these shores.

     Gosnold was born in 1571 at the family home at Otley Hall in the town of Ipswich in Suffolk, United Kingdom. Otley Hall, dating back to the 16th century, is consistently voted one of the Top 20 historic homes in the country.

     Gosnold studied law in London at Middle Temple in 1592. He was married to Mary Golding in 1597. In a surprising twist, Gosnold shifted careers from law to maritime. His career shift began when he was a skipper for Sir Walter Raleigh. Raleigh established the Roanoke Colony in present-day North Carolina in the 1580s.

     In 1599, Gosnold was in charge of a ship called Diamond from Southampton on a privateering voyage against Spanish ships in the area of the Azores of Portugal. A privateer is essentially a pirate with government protection. It netted Gosnold approximately 50,000 British pounds adjusted for today. Whether Gosnold wanted to continue with law is unknown as that first maritime voyage convinced him to keep on that path. It also gave him the currency to fund his next big voyage. 

Photo of reconstruction of Gosnold on display (2011) at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum. 

     On March 26, 1602, Gosnold departed Falmouth, Cornwall, England, for the New World. He was the joint captain of a 39-foot barque called Concord with a crew of 32, including himself. A new route led Gosnold north of the Azores and then due west from there. The Concord sailed the Atlantic Ocean for 50 days before arriving on the shores of the New World. The new, faster route was followed 18 years later by the Mayflower.

     On May 14, 1602 Gosnold stepped onto the shore somewhere in mid-coast Maine, possibly around Cape Elizabeth. Those on board were shocked to be greeted by a Native American wearing European shoes and clothing. The stay was brief and Gosnold sailed south along the Maine coastline for a few days, docking briefly in York.

     The next land the Concord saw was Provincetown as they docked in the harbor. It was at this point that, due to the abundance of codfish in the waters caused Gosnold gave the peninsula the name Cape Cod. It took a week, but the Concord sailed around the arm of the Cape and southwest across the water until striking land again. He called the island he landed on Martha’s Vineyard for his daughter who had died in infancy in 1598, and for the abundance of wild grapes. However, Gosnold actually landed on the smaller Noman’s Land 3 miles south of the actual Martha’s Vineyard, although the name was eventually transferred to the larger island.

     Gosnold and the Concord headed north, passing the cliffs at Aquinnah and naming them Dover Cliffs. He sailed into Buzzard’s Bay, calling it Gosnold’s Hope. The ship docked on another piece of land, an island he named Elizabeth Isle for Queen Elizabeth I. This island would later become known as Cuttyhunk of the Elizabeth Islands.

     The ship sailed around to the northern side of the island and docked outside present-day West End Pond. Inside the pond was a small island, less than an acre in size, where Gosnold and his crew built a makeshift stone fort. The settlement on Cuttyhunk barely lasted a month. A hostile meeting with local Native Americans combined with the realization that they lacked the provisions to last the winter, meant that the crew had to head back to England. On June 18, 1602 the ship left Cuttyhunk with a cargo of furs, cedarwood, and sassafras. He was seen basically as a failure upon his return since no permanent colony had been established. 

Gosnold at Cuttyhunk. Painting by Albert Bierstadt 1858
(Public Domain)

     Gosnold returned to the New World a few years later. He left England aboard the ship Godspeed in December 1606. In April, the crew arrived in Chesapeake Bay near the mouth of the James River. This journey was a success, and the first permanent European settlement in the New World was established in the form of Jamestown, Virginia. 

Historic Jamestown, Virginia
(Christopher Setterlund)

     Despite the accomplishment of the settlement, 50 of the 104 of the population died during the hot summer. Dysentery, malaria, swamp fever, and malnutrition were rampant. On August 22, 1607, the terrible conditions claimed the life of Bartholomew Gosnold. He was buried outside of the settlement’s fort with full military honors.

     In addition to giving Cape Cod and Martha’s Vineyard their names, Gosnold is immortalized in another area he discovered. On Cuttyhunk, on the tiny island where he built a fort in 1602, now named Gosnold Island, stands the Bartholomew Gosnold Monument. Standing 50-feet tall the cornerstone was laid in 1902 and dedicated September 1, 1903. 

The Bartholomew Gosnold Monument at Cuttyhunk, 1903
(New Bedford Free Public Library)

     Bartholomew Gosnold, as an explorer, is largely a forgotten name. He does not have any cities or universities or things of the like named in his honor. Even his gravesite at Jamestown was lost. Archaeologists believe they found it in 2003, DNA testing has not been totally conclusive but it is likely the final resting place of Gosnold. His contributions to the European colonization of America cannot be overlooked; they are especially felt in Jamestown and right here on Cape Cod.
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View my previous blog posts: In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Christmas Tree Shops

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Billingsgate Island

                              

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Road Trip Day 4 - Jamestown and Finding the Ocean

     Day 4 was filled with driving and seeing only a few places, but those places were worth the drive.  It started with me getting out of Lynchburg early, letting the hotel manager know I was less than impressed with his room and the noisy guests above me.  My original plan was to drive nearly 3 hours east to Colonial Williamsburg and Jamestown, Virginia.  I am big on history so Jamestown has been on my to-do list for a long time.  

     A hiccup came with the fact that NC-12 the road that stretches most of North Carolina's Outer Banks had been closed due to the storm that had passed through over the weekend.  The meant my original plan of sunset there Tuesday night was off since it wouldn't be opened until mid-afternoon Wednesday.  I had wanted to do a sunset shoot of the wild horses on the beach at Assateague State Park in Maryland Wednesday night but couldn't be there and Cape Hatteras Lighthouse at the same time.  The compromise was to drive all the way up to Assateague from Lynchburg Tuesday, nearly 6 hours, get some shots and head down to the Outer Banks for Wednesday.  In all I'd have done about 550 miles and 10 hours of driving.  

     Luckily my route to Assateague took me right past Williamsburg and Jamestown, I thought maybe I could stop off briefly and see those places and still make it to the horses by sunset.  My love of history topped my desire to see the horses and I got lost in time at Jamestown.  It is impossible to rush when seeing the first permanent English settlement in America.  Every plaque had to be read, every piece of a building's foundation had to be photographed, plus there is ongoing archaeological digging happening.  The Jamestown Church is awe-inspiring.  The current one dates from 1906 and stands on top of where the original wooden church was built in 1608.  That was where Pocahontas married John Rolfe in 1614.  

Inside the Jamestown Church

     Colonial Williamsburg is the neighboring town to Jamestown, it's a third of America's Historic Triangle with Yorktown being the other town.  It is a family-friendly, touristy spot compared to Jamestown.  It has shops, restaurants, tours, people playing the roles of Colonial-era citizens, and more.  For those familiar with it, it is along the same lines as Plimoth Plantation but with more food and shopping.  It is definitely worth visiting, and it was pretty busy for a mid-November weekday so I could only image the lines during summer.

A Colonial-era horse and carriage at Williamsburg.

     After visiting those two places I realized there was no chance I'd make it to Assateague before sunset.  I readjusted my plans and decided to go back to the original which was to head to North Carolina's Outer Banks.  Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is a major Bucket List spot and the entirety of the Outer Banks is a place I've wanted to visit for years.  I booked a room in Kill Devil Hills, a beachfront room for cheap which really made my night.  Only when driving down to the hotel did I realize how big the Outer Banks is.  From where I stayed it is well over an hour south to Cape Hatteras still.

     I managed to find a little walking trail in Kitty Hawk that had a neat dock.  Knowing that I still have to wait until Wednesday afternoon to go to Cape Hatteras I decided to save many of the sites on the Outer Banks until morning.  After driving 1,200 miles since Saturday I ironically have no choice but to sit still for a while.  I plan on visiting the Wright Brothers Memorial first.  I kept my trying new places streak going by having dinner at Max's Italian Restaurant and getting supplies from Publix.  They need to build one on Cape Cod.

A secret spot in Kitty Hawk, North Carolina

     I did manage to get my shoes soaked at the beach in the town of Duck which was great. Luckily I brought my running shoes in case I'd had the desire to exercise.  Those are now my main shoes with the others drying in my trunk.  All in all it was a much better Day 4 than Day 3, the hotel is great, on the beach, the weather is clearing up and Wednesday should be filled with epic sites to see on the Outer Banks.

In My Footsteps: Trip 89: Augusta, Maine

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 89:  Augusta, Maine

October 3, 2010

            Although it ranks as the third smallest state capital, population-wise, Augusta can hold its own with any other capital in the United States.  The area of Augusta was actually first explored by the Popham Colony.  They were English settlers who established the second colony in America only a few months after Jamestown, Virginia in 1607.  It was called by its Native American name of ‘Cushnoc’ until 1797 when it was incorporated as a part of Massachusetts as the town of Harrington.  Shortly thereafter it was renamed Augusta after Augusta Dearborn the daughter of noted American physician and Revolutionary War veteran Henry Dearborn.

Fort Western

            The first place I visited when I entered Augusta was the famed Fort Western.  Built in 1754 it is the oldest wooden fort in the country and remains relatively unchanged to this day; it is opened to the public during the summer months.  As interesting as the fort is there is more to the story of this place.  First of all two of the most infamous names in American history stayed here at one point.  In 1775 during their expedition to Quebec Benedict Arnold and Aaron Burr stayed at the garrison while building bateaux, a small flat bottomed boat.

            Aaron Burr of course was Vice President under Thomas Jefferson and is well known for his duel with Secretary of the Treasury Alexander Hamilton which resulted in Hamilton’s death in 1804.  Benedict Arnold’s name is even more infamous as the Revolutionary War general who plotted to surrender the fort at West Point to the British in 1780.  After being found out he defected to the British Army.  His name to this day is synonymous with betrayal.  It was for this reason that I found it very fitting that a stone plaque which mentions Arnold’s stay at Fort Western was covered with graffiti. 

Another Stone near the Benedict Arnold one marks the site of the Cushnoc Trading Post which was in use from 1628-1661.  This trading post was established by the Pilgrims of Plymouth County in order to trade with the local Abenaki tribe of Native Americans.  The site of where this trading post once stood is an historic landmark as well thanks to the discovery of the post’s remains in an archaeological dig from 1984 to 1987.

One of the buildings at the Kennebec Arsenal.

            There is a splendid river walk, The Augusta Greenway Trail, which connects to the Kennebec River Rail Trail and leads to Fort Western along the Kennebec River.  It is here that you begin to feel how small the state capital is as I don’t know of many others that could make you feel so isolated at times as I did walking along the Kennebec.  The state capitol building’s dome poking up from the trees across the river was a magnificent sight that I believe can only be seen in Augusta.  As isolated as I felt during this walk it actually added to the mystique and overall experience when I came upon the Kennebec Arsenal.

            Comprised of eight granite buildings the Kennebec Arsenal is the most intact early 19^th century munitions depot in the country.  It was built between 1828 and 1838 and was built strategically on a hill with a fabulous view of the Kennebec River.  Though they are the most intact munitions depot buildings the Kennebec Arsenal looks every bit of its age.  I am not sure if it is natural aging and weathering or if it is vandalism but some of the granite buildings look like scenes from horror films.  Some of the buildings were partially obscured by small trees and shrub overgrowth while others were tucked behind chain link fence.  Personally I think it made it more of an experience for me since for the most part it was just myself and the eight buildings.  From the hillside I could see the state capitol building still; this was where I would end my trip to Augusta.

The State House seen from Capitol Park.

            Visiting a state capitol on a Sunday means that there is very little in the way of traffic in and around the buildings.  Before I took a stroll around the impressive capitol building I decided to get acquainted with it from afar.  The thirty-four acre Capitol Park, directly across the street from the capitol building, gives you a view that I was in awe of.  The trees are planted in such a way that there is a straight clearing from the park all the way up the steps of the capitol.  Words cannot describe it, a photo will do a little better job.

            After seeing it from this angle I decided to make a closer inspection of the Maine State Capitol.  Portland was actually the original state capitol of Maine, but it was moved to Augusta in 1832 because of its central location.  The building opened in 1832 and has the look of the United States Capitol in Washington D.C. with the domed roof and the many Romanesque columns. 

The Blaine House aka Governor's Mansion

            I was able to move rather freely around the grounds which gave me great perspectives.  To the left of the State Capitol is a modern three-story building which houses the state’s library, museum, and archives.  Behind the Capitol is the Burton Cross building which houses the Maine State Offices.  Cross was governor of Maine twice, from 1952 to 1955 save for one day due to the fact that his Senate term had ended 25 hours before his term as governor began.  It is a bit complicated for me to explain.

            Across Capitol Street sits the Executive Mansion, also known as the Blaine House.  The home of Maine’s governors the house was given to the state by Harriet Blaine Beale in 1919.  The house dates back to 1833 and the first governor to live in the mansion was Carl E. Miliken in 1920. 

            I was lucky enough to visit Augusta on a Sunday, making it very easy to get around.  This should not stop any visitor from coming here to see one of the smallest, yet most beautiful state capitols in the country.  The small town feel makes it more special, some state capitols feel out of reach due to their size, but Augusta is all right there for you to experience.  Make the time to see Fort Western and the Augusta Greenway Trail, and then check out Capitol Park and the spectacular view of the State House.  Have fun and happy traveling! 

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, and Amazon.com, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

     

Directions:  Fort Western:  On I-95 headed north take exit 109A, merge right onto Rt. 202.  At rotary take 3^rd exit to stay on Rt. 202.  At the next rotary take 4^th exit for Cony St., Fort is on left.

            Maine State House:  On I-95 headed north take exit 109A, merge right onto Rt. 202.  At rotary take 2^nd exit for State Street.  Capitol Park is across from State House with parking on the street.

References:  Capital Walks - The Augusta Greenway Trail

            Blaine House.org

            The Museum in the Streets - Augusta, ME

            Maine.gov

In My Footsteps: Trip 47: Jamestown, RI

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In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 47: Jamestown, RI

May 13, 2010

            Perhaps known by many as a throughway connecting Newport and Narragansett, Jamestown and Conanicut Island are filled with amazing sites.  The Newport Bridge brings you into Jamestown from the east and the Jamestown Verrazzano Bridge takes you to Narragansett to the west, but anybody who decides to visit either of those two incredible destinations needs to stop and give Jamestown a longer look.

            The island was home for hundreds of years to the Narragansett tribe of Native Americans, at least during the warmer months.  Conanicut Island is named for the Narragansett ‘sachem,’ or chief, Canonicus, who gave the English settlers permission to let their sheep graze on the island in 1638.  The oldest Native American artifacts found on the island an in the surrounding waters date back to 3,000 B.C.  It is here on Conanicut Island that the largest number of Native American burying ground in New England exists. 

            Jamestown itself was incorporated as a town in 1678 and named for James, Duke of York who would become King James II in 1685.  In addition to having strong ties to early-American and Native American history, Jamestown boasts several spectacular historic and natural landmarks that are must see attractions.

            The first spot I went to was the home of the third oldest lighthouse in America: Beavertail State Park.  Located on the southern tip of Conanicut Island, Beavertail State Park is more than just the home to Beavertail Light, but let’s start there.  Beavertail Light(above) was originally established in 1749 but has been rebuilt a few times in the years since, most recently after the Hurricane of 1938.  It has a very unique look, a smoky-gray stone rectangle; overlooking Narragansett Bay it is an incredible site. 

            Beavertail State Park is not just about the lighthouse though.  The shores all around the point are filled with slopes of rocks where the waves crash, while I was there I spotted many people sitting on their beach chairs perched on the rocks enjoying the sun.  There are small beaches along the shore as well if you are willing to climb down the rocks to get to them.   

            Another great spot to visit is the site of the Jamestown Windmill.  The current windmill, standing thirty-feet tall, was built in 1787 for the purpose of grinding corn.  The previous mill was destroyed by British troops around the time of the Battle of Rhode Island.  While it was operational it had to rely on the ocean’s breezes to power the windmill since Jamestown does not have any sort of running water to do that job.  The windmill is located on North Road and is open to the public on weekends during the summer.

            Fort Wetherill(right) was a strategic military location a few miles north of the southern tip of Conanicut Island.  It became a government run military base named in 1899, during the Spanish-American War.  It was named for Jamestown native Alexander Macom Wetherill who was killed at the Battle of San Juan Hill.  Inside the fort has been basically untouched since it was shut down in 1946.  The concrete structures that are built into the granite hillside were put in place prior to World War II.  Now there are trees and plants growing along the openings to the concrete structures.  It is a very eerie feeling going inside and walking down the hallways littered with crumbled concrete.  I found it ominous that each of the other openings down one of the hallways were blocked by growing trees.

            The site became a state park in the early-1970’s, it is fifty-two acres of amazing scenic views.  A dirt pathway takes you up a hill and lets you see the fort from above.  It is fenced in and not accessible but that should not take away from the trip.  From atop this hill there are no limit of sights: Narragansett Bay, Castle Hill Lighthouse in Newport, and Fort Adams which is almost directly across from Fort Wetherill.  I had a great time exploring this area; the beautiful sunny day only added to my experience.

            The final spot I visited during my time in Jamestown was the East Ferry Landing(right).  This is the area where ferry boats came across Narragansett Bay from Newport until 1969 when the Newport Bridge was opened.  The sailboats that are a symbol of the sea life around the Rhode Island coast were on display along Narragansett Bay stretching all the way down to the Newport Bridge.  It was around this time that I felt like I was seeing the soul of Rhode Island, the boats on the water, the shops on the wharf, all images I needed to burn into my mind.

            Though there are these sites I have listed here that should be visited it is just as good to come over either of the bridges and simply drive all over Conanicut Island.  I enjoyed doing just that.  It is while you take your time and explore a place like Jamestown that you really get a feel for what it is like.  Being that it is less than twenty-five square miles in size it is very easy to see all of the island in a day.

            Whether visiting Beavertail State Park, Fort Wetherill, Jamestown Windmill, or simply cruising the beautiful island roads you can’t go wrong.  I did both and loved it all.  Jamestown and Conanicut Island are one and the same, they are filled with history and house incredible views of the sea from all sides.  I highly recommend taking the time to cross either the Jamestown Bridge or Newport Bridge(left) and giving some time to this beautiful island town.  Have fun and happy traveling!  




     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Beavertail State Park: From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway.  Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3^rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West.  Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., right at Canonicus Ave., Canonicus Ave. becomes Walcott Ave.  Turn right at Hamilton Ave., Hamilton Ave. becomes Beavertail Rd. follow it to the park.

            Fort Wetherill:  From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway.  Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3^rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West.  Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., right at Canonicus Ave., Canonicus Ave. becomes Walcott Ave.  Take slight left at Fort Wetherill Rd., take the 2^nd right, turn right park will be on the left. 

            Jamestown Windmill:  From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway.  Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3^rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West.  Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., left at Canonicus Ave., take 3^rd right onto Bryer Ave., turn right at Prudence Lane.  Prudence Lane turns left and becomes Whittier Rd., turn right at N. Rd.  The windmill is .1 miles up on the right.

            East Ferry Landing:  From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway.  Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3^rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West.  Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., right at Canonicus Ave., East Ferry Landing is on the left.

References:  Jamestown, RI Visitor Info

            RI Parks - Beavertail State Park

            RI Parks - Fort Wetherill

            Jamestown Historical Society
 

Jamestown on Dwellable