In My Footsteps: Trip 34: Carver, Mass.

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In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 34: Carver, Mass.

March 18, 2010

            Carver is a small town with some big attractions.  Although it is synonymous with Edaville USA, and rightfully so, there is so much more to Carver that needs to be seen.  If Middleboro has small town charm, Carver is closer to a rural area, with the population spread out more which gives way to some incredible stretches of wooded scenery perfect for a drive on a summer day. 

            Carver became its own town in 1790 mostly thanks to the fact the many residents of Plympton, Massachusetts lived too far away to attend church.  Named for John Carver, the first governor of Plymouth Colony, the town became known for its iron ore found in its swamps and became further established thanks to a rail line which connected the small town to Boston and New York City.

            I paid a visit to Carver’s Town Hall(left) first off and noticed that the building fits right in with the rest of the town’s rural appeal.  Whereas Middleboro has a very large Hall, Carver’s is much more understated.  It faces a nicely maintained wooded area which contains a farmers market and has what can only be described as a vintage war gun on the front lawn.  The gun is from the World War II-era or earlier and I found it a little humorous that it is pointed eerily close to the farmers market.

            Up the road a ways, close to the ground of another famous attraction, the seasonal King Richard’s Faire, is a historic spot that can only be described as the first in America.  The Savery Historic District is home to a short stretch of road that is the first divided highway ever built in America(right).  Built in 1861 by William Savery the road is two lanes with a beautiful row of trees in between them.  The trees were left to be used as ‘shade and ornament for man and beast.’  A drive on this road is only a little over a minute but it is so unique that I had to circle back several times to get a feel of what it must have been like when this stretch of ‘highway’ was brand new.

            Located at the next right turn after the Savery Road sits the grounds of King Richard’s Faire which runs on weekends in September and October.  This fair is an authentic recreation of a 16^th Century English marketplace at festival time.  It is a great way to experience history firsthand and its popularity as a family tourist destination is equaled only by the next place I visited in Carver: Edaville Railroad, now known as Edaville USA.

            Edaville(right) is a cherished childhood memory of mine and I am sure of many thousands of others from New England.  Edaville was built in 1947 using the remains of most of Maine’s once thriving two-foot gauge rails.  The name Edaville comes from the man responsible for building the five and a half mile long track around his 1500 acre cranberry bogs, Ellis D. Atwood.  His initials (E.D.A.) make up part of the name.  Although it has undergone many changes since I first visited the park in the mid-1980’s, Edaville still maintains its charm and appeal for kids and adults alike.  There is nothing quite like taking the train ride around the vast cranberry bog during the Christmas season, even twenty-five years later I can picture that trip in my mind.  The park has many rides and a vintage carousel, it is easy to find and as previously stated is synonymous with the small town of Carver.

            Located a little further east in Carver, as well as in the neighboring town of Plymouth sits a place that is worthy of its own article.  Myles Standish State Forest is the largest publicly owned recreation area in the state and is home to many beautiful kettle ponds.  Covering approximately 15,000 acres of land this amazing landscape is home to the endangered Plymouth Red-bellied turtle which populates several of the kettle ponds.

            Although it is filled with incredible scenery no matter the time of day it is highly recommended that you visit Myles Standish State Forest at either sunrise or sunset.  I went close to sunset which gives a beautiful orange glow to the pine trees and colors the water of the ponds a blue gray.  With daylight fading I had to pick and choose which ponds I visited, first up was College Pond.  This pond is very popular and has areas for swimming, picnicking, and fishing.  I visited the other side of the pond which was dotted with several small cabins, the facilities on the main side of College Pond were still visible despite the sunlight fading. 

            Furnace Pond is on the western side of the forest and I ran into a flock of turkeys heading out of New Long Pond on the way there.  Down a dirt road which needed to be walked I found a pair of swans quietly swimming across Furnace Pond(left) and it made for a fitting end to my trip. 

            Carver maybe a small and rural town but it has a lot to be seen.  Give some time to visit the country’s first divided highway, take a tour around Edaville USA, and then enjoy the quiet majesty of Myles Standish State Forest.  Bring the whole family and feel the spirit of this little town all around you.  Have fun and happy traveling!





     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Savery Road:  From I-495, take the exit for Rt. 58 N.  Turn left after 2.5 miles to stay on Rt. 58.  Follow Rt. 58 for 3 more miles, the Savery divided highway is on the left.

            Edaville USA:  From I-495, take the exit for Rt. 58 N.  Turn left after 2.5 miles to stay on Rt. 58.  Follow Rt. 58 for another mile and turn left onto Dump Rd.  Continue onto Rochester Rd., turn right at Eda Ave. 

            Myles Standish State Forest:  From Rt. 3 take Exit 5, turn right onto Long Pond Rd.  Continue on for 3 miles, the park entrance is on the right.

References:  Edaville USA

            DCR - Myles Standish State Forest

            King Richard's Faire

            Town of Carver Homepage

In My Footsteps: Trip 24: Cape Cod Rail Trail

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 24: Cape Cod Rail Trail

February 18, 2010

            The miles of beautiful beaches can fill your heart with happiness.  The lighthouses that dot the coastline can fill your mind with history.  However, the best way to really fill yourself up with the soul of Cape Cod is to take a ride on the Cape Cod Rail Trail.  The paved main trail from Dennis to Wellfleet is more than twenty miles of pure Cape beauty.

            First begun in 1976, and having gone through many cosmetic changes through the years, the Rail Trail mixes a little bit of everything that makes the Cape special.  There are several parking areas along the trail if you do not feel like riding the full distance and there are other trails on the Cape as well although the Rail Trail is the most well known.

            As for the actual meat and potatoes of the ride there is something for everyone.  A little over a mile from the beginning there is the West Reservoir which is almost always inhabited by swans and ducks.  There is a pathway to lead you to the water’s edge or you can observe the wildlife from the elevated perch of the trail.  There is a chance for another detour at the Bells Neck Conservation area in Harwich.  The bike trail goes through it along the northern fringe but is worth a closer look if you have the time.  The trail also passes along the Thatcher cranberry bog which is enormous as well as by a large blue water tower on the right side along Lothrop Avenue.  

            The trail forks off in Harwich with the main trail continuing on north and an offshoot trail heading onto Chatham and ending at the Chatham Municipal Airport.  The main trail crosses over the highway in a section of the trail that has only recently been developed.  For many years riders had to navigate along a treacherous section of Route 124 that included the on and off ramps at Exit 10. 

            The Pleasant Lake General Store in Brewster sits along Rt. 124 across the street from Hinckleys Pond which is also called Pleasant Lake.  This historic store is more than 150 years old and was once a railroad station and post office.  Now it is a must see spot and is a great place to fuel up with snacks and drinks.  There are picnic table outside of the store, this place is a favorite of mine and will surely create a fond memory for all travelers as well.

            The Rail Trail snakes its way in between Seymour and Long Pond on its way along Rt. 124.  There are great views of both water bodies but in summer the shores of Long Pond are privately rented and so looking from the trail is probably best.  The trail continues on its way through Brewster and passes by Nickerson State Park(above).  The Rail Trail heads off underneath Rt. 6A toward Orleans but Nickerson has its own bike path that can be accessed by cutting through Nickerson’s main parking lot.  There is another bridge over the highway as the Rail Trail passes through Orleans and heads for Eastham.  From this bridge, which passes over Rock Harbor Road as well, there is a great view of the Orleans Courthouse as well as the Orleans Rotary(right). 

            From this point the Rail Trail heads up into the National Seashore which begins by passing along several beautiful ponds in Eastham.  From the trail you can observe Herring Pond, Depot Pond, and Great Pond.  After crossing Rt. 6 the Rail Trail continues along to the Marconi Beach Rd.  If the time permits you should take the time to visit the Marconi Site and beach which I covered in my Wellfleet article.  From this point the trail continues on to Lecount Hollow Road which is where it comes to a close.  There is a great beach at the end of Lecount Hollow Rd. if you feel like continuing the ride.

            The Cape Cod Rail Trail is not the only bike path on the Cape.  In Falmouth there is the Shining Sea Bikeway which was mentioned in my Falmouth & Woods Hole article.  The trail is just over ten miles long and follows Cape Cod’s west coast through the Salt Pond Bird Sanctuary and then along the beaches in West Falmouth down into Woods Hole. 

            In Provincetown the Province Lands Bike Path(left) gives you a spectacular journey through some of the untouched majesty of Cape Cod.  Beginning at Herring Cove Beach and at just over five miles in length the trail includes several offshoot trails.  This bike trail needs to be experienced at least once.  The elusive Race Point Light is located down a dirt road adjacent to the trail and is a worthwhile walk for any visitor.  Plus there are many views of the nearby Pilgrim Monument which towers above the dunes and pine trees.  Some of the sand dunes stretch twenty to thirty feet into the air, it adds to the splendor of the ride and give the bike path a secluded feel.  It ends at Race Point Beach, the northern most point on the Cape, which also should be explored further if time permits.

            With several bike paths covering Cape Cod it may take a few trips before they are all seen and ridden.  The exercise you get from riding, or even walking, these trails is secondary to the enjoyment of becoming one with the very soul of Cape Cod.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Cape Cod Rail Trail: From Rt. 6 take Exit 9A, turn left into the bike path’s beginning parking lot just after Cranberry Square Plaza.   

Shining Sea Bikeway: From Bourne Bridge take Rt. 28 south, turn right onto Locust Rd., parking lot is 1 mi. passed, just after Pin Oak Way.

Province Lands Bikeway: Take Rt. 6 into Provincetown.  Turn right onto Province Lands Rd., enter Herring Cove Beach parking lot on left.  Bike trail begins at north end of lot.

References:  Shining Sea Bikeway

            Province Lands Bike Trail

            Cape Cod Bike Guide - Rail Trail

            History of Pleasant Lake

Woods Hole on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 19: Harwich, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 19: Harwich, Mass.

February 6, 2010

            Cape Cod is known for many things, beaches, historic villages, and quaint shops among them.  However, just as much as those, Cape Cod is known for its cranberry bogs, some of which supply Ocean Spray with their fruit.  In fact the Cape Cod Cranberry Growers Association represents nearly half of all of the growers in North America.  Of all the towns on the Cape, Harwich may be the cranberry bog capital.  There is even an annual Cranberry Harvest Festival held in Harwich during September.

            Though some of these cranberry bogs are private there are some that can be walked.  The best place to go for an up close and personal tour of a working cranberry bog is the Cape Farm & Cranberry Company(left) located on Main Street in Harwich.  The bog is toured via a large motorized cart through the spring, summer, and fall.  Besides the bog itself there are farm animals that can be enjoyed by children and adults alike.  Reservations are needed but all group sizes can be accommodated including buses and school field trips.  The Harwich Historical Society at Brooks Academy has a large exhibit on the cranberry culture of Cape Cod.

            Harwich has much to offer besides cranberry bogs.  One such example is the Bells Neck Conservation Area.  At more than 250-acres of natural beauty, Bells Neck is filled with walking trails, ponds, and an amazing marsh(right) area that includes a view of an immense blue water tower hovering above the tree line.  Entering from Great Western Road you will see the large West Reservoir on the right side.  It is nearly always populated by swans and ducks during the warmer months.  The main dirt road if taken will lead you eventually to Route 28 but there is one side road and it needs to be taken.  This dirt road takes you to the marsh area at Bells Neck and there is a walking bridge that gives you an amazing view.  The scope of the conservation area is in full view from this spot.  The muddy area along the marsh river is filled with tiny marsh Fiddler crabs that scurry away as you approach.  The trails are great for walking but the Cape Cod Rail Trail slices through the conservation area as it makes its way from Dennis up to Provincetown.

            Not to be forgotten in the town of Harwich is the beautiful coastline.  Perhaps the best spot to enjoy the nautical portion of the town is at Wychmere Harbor(right).  Located on Rt. 28 there is a spectacular view of the harbor at a small dirt turn off.  It is along a busy road so be careful when pulling off, but the view is worth it and there are benches for sitting there as well.  

            Just to the east of Wychmere Harbor, located next to the hugely popular Brax Landing restaurant, is Saquatucket Harbor(left).  Saquatucket is the Native American word which loosely translated means ‘Stony Brook’ a name that is quite common in Brewster as that town was first considered part of Harwich.

From this harbor ferry boats leave for trips to Nantucket as well as out to Monomoy Island off of Chatham.  It is on Monomoy where groups of seals congregate and the ferries will take you out there to see them.

            As far as actual beaches go the best one for my money is Red River Beach, easily accessible from three different roads.  The Red River represents the border between Harwich and Chatham.  For hikers there is a marsh area behind the beach parking lot that leads to the Red River Swamp. 

            Another great long hike is at the Hawksnest State Park which is located off of Spruce Road near Exit 11 of the highway.  The large Hawksnest Pond and the smaller Olivers Pond are located within the boundaries of the park.  There is also the small 19^th Century Head of the Bay Cemetery located in the northwest portion of the park.  Seth Whitfield Road runs north to south through the forest.  It is dirt and is somewhat tough to navigate.  It might be best to have an off-road capable vehicle to drive this road.  There is only one cabin located in the area and that is private.  It is here where the Hawksnest Camp, a duck hunting area, was founded in 1925.  A small group called Friends of Hawks Nest has begun work on getting funding to help clean up the park which is basically under no control.

            Originally incorporated in 1694 Harwich has over 300 years of history that can be seen, smelled, and even tasted.  Whether you like beaches and boats, hiking through the forest, or cranberry bogs and farm animals, Harwich’s rich natural beauty and history will be sure to capture your imagination and heart.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Cape Farm Cranberry Bog: From Rt. 28 in Harwich turn north onto Lothrop Ave.  Follow it to the end and turn left onto Main Street.  The bog is on the right about 300 feet away.

Wychmere Harbor: The overlook area is located between Snow Inn Rd. and Harbor Rd.

Red River Beach: The beach can be accessed by either Deep Hole Rd. or Uncle Venies Rd.

Bells Neck Conservation Area: From Rt. 28 turn north onto Depot Rd., and take a slight right onto Bells Neck Rd.

References: Friends of Hawks Nest

                    Harwich Historical Society

                    Wychmere Harbor Beach and Tennis Club

                    Cape Farm Cranberry Bog Tours

           

Harwich on Dwellable