In My Footsteps: Trip 53: Saugus, Mass.

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In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 53: Saugus, Mass.

May 20, 2010

            Though the North Shore is primarily known for its tremendous stretches of scenic, rocky, coastline, there are a few places away from the coast that are just as beautiful and need to be taken in.  Saugus is just one such place. 

            Located just to the west of Lynn, Saugus is rich with history at every turn.  Saugus, the Nipmuck Indian name for the area thought to mean ‘great,’ originally included the future towns of Swampscott, Lynn, Nahant, Lynnfield, Reading, and Wakefield.  The present-day Saugus was incorporated as a town in 1815 with agriculture as its main industry.  However, the main historic site in Saugus shows that this town was built on a much different industry.

            The Saugus Iron Works(left) was the first iron works in America, in operation from 1646-1668 it is now an historic site and museum.  This place is filled with tremendous views; the Saugus River flows behind the site with the main building set on a hill overlooking the river.  I found it quite ironic that the entirety of the Iron Works site looked like something from the Olde English countryside, the irony being that those who originally built and worked here were English colonists.  On this sunny day it was easy to take my time and get lost in each of the buildings which are filled with replicas of the original tools used.

            The Iron Works House, the large black building seen as you enter through the gates, is the only piece of architecture from the 17^th century on the grounds.  That building was erected around 1680, or about ten years after the Iron Works ceased operations.  The rest of the structures are recreations based on the findings of archaeologist Roland Robbins during his dig on the site from 1948 to 1953.  There is so much to explore here but even sitting on a bench taking in the scenery is a great way to spend some time.

            When entering Saugus I made it a point to seek out their town hall as I do with most of the places I visit.  As I have said, the buildings themselves are usually beautiful old structures and the surrounding grounds typically are well groomed and dotted with monuments or statues.  What I found particularly fascinating about Saugus’ Town Hall(right) even more than the structure itself was the colors.  Rather than the typical neutral colors like white or grey, the Saugus Town Hall is a combination of a dull-yellow and brown.  This town hall, the second one built in the town in 1875, despite its elegant beauty and rich colors was a sore spot that nearly tore the town apart. 

            When the Town Hall was constructed in 1875 it put Saugus in a $50,000 debt.  This was the main catalyst for the neighborhood of East Saugus to attempt to become separated from Saugus and annexed to the city of Lynn.  Unfortunately for the prospective people of East Saugus they were unable to get a bill in both the House and the Senate.  It was not a complete failure though as $5,000 was appropriated for new water pipes to be laid in East Saugus.

            After leaving the Town Hall area I headed for the Boardman House(right) on Howard Street.  This house is very unique, not just for the central chimney which sticks up through the middle of the roof.  Built in 1692 for joiner, a type of carpenter who does not use nails, William Boardman, the house has been untouched in design since the early 1700’s.  The only change occurred early in the house’s existence when a lean-to was added to the back of the house around 1696.  This change gives the house the look of a classic New England ‘salt box,’ even though theoretically it is not.  The house has five fireplaces, an outhouse in the backyard, and is owned by Historic New England.  The Boardman House can be toured from June through mid-October.

            The final place I visited was the beautiful Breakheart Reservation, a 640-acre forest located in Saugus and neighboring Wakefield.  There is a bike trail which leads to a freshwater beach at Pearce Lake only a mile from the lot where I parked.  The dirt trails lead to views of the Saugus River(left) as well as views of Boston and nearby areas from any of the seven high rocky hills.  I did not get to any of the huge rocky hills but I did have an experience on a smaller rock.

            While walking along the Saugus River I noticed a rock face stretching over forty feet up that ended up above the tree line.  There were no paths to get up to the clearing so I decided to scale the hill through the trees, rocks, and brush.  When I finally reached the top I was rewarded with an unbelievable view.  Before me was downtown Saugus while rolling green hills went on as far as I could see.  However, that was nothing compared to what was waiting behind me.

            After shooting a few shots of the landscape in front of me I turned around and was face to face with a young buck no more than ten yards away(right).  I stayed still and got some shots and a video of him, but then he began wagging his white tail and gave a defiant snort which made me wonder if mating season was still ongoing.  After a few minutes of waiting to see what his move was I decided to play it safe and I retreated down the rocky hill.  That experience in and of itself made the trip worthwhile, but obviously not everyone will get to see a deer as closely as I did.  Breakheart Reservation will definitely fill your soul with the sights, sounds, and scents of untouched nature, deer or no deer.

            The town of Saugus holds a different scope of sights than the typical North Shore town.  I suppose that is because it is not technically on the North Shore.  The Saugus Iron Works and Breakheart Reservation are two spots that definitely need to be visited as they are the definition of the historical and natural beauty that I strive to find in my trips.  Saugus has them both.  Have fun and happy traveling!




My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Saugus Iron Works:  From Rt. 1 North take Main Street Saugus exit.  Follow National Park signs east through Saugus Center to the Iron Works.  Along the way you will pass the Town Hall.

            Breakheart Reservation:  From Rt. 1 North take Lynn Fells Parkway exit, follow for a short way, turn right onto Forest Street, entrance to the park is right after Kasabuski Rink.

References:  Dept. of Conservation - Breakheart Reservation

            Town of Saugus - Official Site

            Saugus Iron Works

            Historic New England - Boardman House   

In My Footsteps: Trip 52: Nahant, Mass.

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In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 52: Nahant, Mass.

May 20, 2010

            Most of the places I have visited I have been excited to see, some more than others.  Then there are places that make a trip by being even better than expected.  Still, there have been very few places that I have been very excited to see and then have been even better than expected.  Nahant is one of the few places that hit it on both counts.  It is a true one in a million place to visit.  I have been telling all I know about my love affair with this place since I visited, now it is time to bring you folks in as well.

            Barely more than a mile wide at its greatest, and connected to the mainland by a strip of land a little wider than a two-lane road, Nahant packs a lot of beautiful sites into a very small area.  The name ‘Nahant’ comes from the Native American word meaning ‘the point,’ or ‘almost an island.’  Settled in 1630 and originally used by people from neighboring Lynn to graze cattle Nahant only had three homes on its 1.2 square miles as late as 1800.  Now mainly a residential area Nahant began mostly as a summer retreat.  The first hotel was built here in 1802 and some of the first amusement parks were built here during the late 19^th century.  Being a residential community now I believe is what helps make Nahant a one in a million place.

            The first spot I wanted to see was actually the furthest point away from the entrance to Nahant.  Swallow Cave(above, top), located at the end of the road of the same name, is a bit out of the way but its story was what captured my imagination.  The cave itself is said to be haunted by a fortune teller from Salem named Witch Wonderful.  Legend has it that during King Philip’s War in 1675 forty Native Americans canoed from Cape Cod and raided Lynn.  The settlers fought back and pushed the Natives out to Nahant where they eventually lost them. 

The settlers consulted Witch Wonderful and she informed them that these Natives were hiding out in the area now known as Swallow Cave.  She also helped convince the Natives to surrender without bloodshed.  The haunting comes from the fact that Witch Wonderful predicted her own death no more than two weeks later.  She was buried atop a hill overlooking the cave and her ghost is said to be seen walking the rocks and the shore.

I did not see any signs of ghosts when I visited the cave area but it was an incredible sight.  A hard climb, the view from on top of the cave is tremendous as you can see across Broad Sound to the Boston skyline(above, bottom).  This is where I got my looks down into the cave where the tide was filling it with water.  I definitely suggest checking the tides before attempting to enter the narrow cave opening as even a little water makes the rocks slippery and dangerous.

Nearly every spot in Nahant has a view of the ocean so finding a beach or park with access to the water is not hard.  However, there are a few spots that stood out above the rest.  East Point(right) located on Nahant Road is a perfect example of this as this park used to be a coastal artillery site during World War II.  The rocks jutting out on the left and right make you feel like you’re in a bowl with the classic North Shore waves funneling their way inside.  There are a few benches and a small parking area that allow you to sit and enjoy the sights, sounds, and even smells of the shore.  This spot is also right next to the Marine Science Center of Northeastern University.

On the other side of Nahant, not very far, sits Nahant Harbor(left) and Dorothy Cove.  Despite the small size of the town I found it amusing that there is still a golf course located there.  Kelly Green Golf Course is small but still just the fact that Nahant has one at all is pretty neat.  There is a parking lot for the golf course that can be used for Nahant Harbor and Dorothy Cove.  I stood up on the retaining wall and enjoyed the sound of the waves pulling the loose rocks toward the ocean, it reminded me of the sound of marbles being juggled about in one’s hand.  It was a very soothing sound and a soothing place.

On the way out of Nahant there are a few more great places to stop and see.  First is the even smaller neighborhood known as Little Nahant.  It is no more than a few roads sticking out to the east of Nahant Road but it is slightly elevated above the surrounding areas which gives some great views of the northern section of Nahant as well as Egg Rock located off shore.

Finally there is Nahant Beach(right) which runs along Nahant Road as you enter, or exit, the town.  It runs northeast into Lynn Shore which was covered in my Lynn article.  The beach has a great view of Lynn and Nahant Bay while the nearly mile long parking lot means there is almost always a spot open.  As if to put an exclamation point on the trip there is even a Dunkin’ Donuts Café located in the parking lot of Nahant Beach.   

What was more impressive than the specific sights to see in Nahant was the overall vibe that this tiny landmass has.  It was this vibe that left the biggest impact on me.  Although connected by a narrow strip of land driving out to Nahant is as close as you can get to driving to and island.  Once you pass the ‘Welcome to Nahant’ sign it is like being in a different world.  Every street, every beach, every park is worth seeing, and with only 1.2 square miles of land you can see it all.  I put Nahant one an entirely different level of places to see, there is no reason not to visit this town.  If you don’t go anywhere else I have been do yourself a favor and take in Nahant, you will not be disappointed.  Have fun and happy traveling!

To view a short video of my time in Nahant click here: In My Footsteps: Nahant, Mass.  

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available from Schiffer Books!

Directions:  Nahant: From Rt. 3 north take Exit 20B to merge onto I-93 north.  Take Exit 20 toward Logan Airport.  Merge onto I-90 east, continue onto Rt. 1A north, at rotary take 2^nd exit to remain on Rt. 1A north.  Continue onto Lynnway, at rotary take 1^st exit onto Nahant Rd.  From here Nahant Beach is on left, Swallow Cave is on Swallow Cave Rd., East Point is at the end of Nahant Road, Nahant Harbor is along Willow Rd.

References:  Strange New England - Swallow Cave

            Nahant.org - Official Site

            Lynn Shore & Nahant Beach Reservation

In My Footsteps: Trip 51: Lynn, Mass.

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In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 51: Lynn, Mass.

May 20, 2010

            Named for the seaport of King’s Lynn in England, the town of Lynn is every bit North Shore.  Located only twelve short miles from Boston this one-time industrial center is now known more for its shore and conservation areas.  Initially Lynn’s land encompassed the future towns of Reading, Lynnfield, Saugus, Swampscott, and Nahant before Lynn itself was incorporated in 1850. 

When I mentioned that Lynn was an industrial center that is an understatement.  Lynn Shoe manufacturers, led by Charles Coffin and Silas Barton, actually invested in the early electric industry.  They invested in the Thomson-Houston Electric Company in 1883.  This company ended up merging with the Edison Electric Company in Schenectady, New York.  This merger became General Electric in 1892; the first two G.E. plants were in Lynn and Schenectady.  Yes, it is a fact, General Electric has its roots in Lynn.

A beautiful spot to begin in Lynn is known simply as Lynn Common(above, left).  It is a sweetly shaded slice of green among the whirring streets and buildings.  It sort of reminded me of Central Park in New York City on a much smaller scale.  Central Park is an escape from Manhattan’s busy streets.  Standing in the center of Lynn Common you can still see and hear all of the city noise but yet you feel a bit disconnected.  There are benches in the shade as well as a sidewalk that runs around the length of the common; there were plenty of people jogging on this day.

Another thing that Lynn is known for, or should be known for, is the incredible views of the surrounding areas from two spots.  The first spot is called High Rock Tower(left) and is located on Circuit Avenue.  The tower itself is eighty-five feet tall with the elevation of the hill pushing the top of the tower to an amazing 200 feet above sea level.  From here it is easy to see neighboring Nahant, Egg Rock, and Boston, along with the downtown area of Lynn almost directly below.(below)   

The park where High Rock Tower is located is a beautiful wide-open stretch of green with a few large boulders like much of the North Shore is known for.  There is also a small playground where children can play. 

In addition to having connections to General Electric’s roots Lynn is also home to the second largest municipal park in the country: The Lynn Woods Reservation.  Founded in 1881 and weighing in at an incredible 2,200 acres Lynn Woods is equipped with more than thirty miles of trails for hiking, bike riding in the summer, and horseback riding.  There are a few active reservoirs that act as ponds for some great scenic views but there was a spot similar to High Rock Tower that I hoped to see.

Simply called the Stone Tower(left), and located at the top of the surprisingly-steep Burrill Hill, this spot is another place to get a greater view of what lies around you.  Going into Lynn Woods I was not sure of the exact location of the Stone Tower, luckily it is less than a mile walk through the trails.  Unfortunately it was not open on this day so my views of the surrounding land had to come courtesy of the outside landing about twenty-feet off the ground.  The surrounding green hills were a breathtaking sight, while the skyline of Boston was a bit obscured by some foliage.  I am sure the view is much better when seen from the top of the forty-eight foot tower.

The final spot I visited in Lynn was a spot typical of the North Shore.  The coastal area, known as Lynn Shore(right), is an amazing recreation area running more than two miles and extended south out to Nahant.  I arrived as the tide was rolling in toward the ten foot high retaining wall running along the street; it made for some inspiring sights of the waves crashing on the rocks.  There are a few areas specifically for looking over Nahant Bay, Egg Rock, and Nahant itself.  Nahant will be covered in my next article. 

I was able to find one stairway leading down to the sand where I was able to be eye level with the crashing waves.  It was a neat sight as the waves were small in the distance and gradually grew as they approached.  I was at a safe distance but the sea birds looking for food got splashed constantly.  There were many people walking and running along the wall taking in the beautiful day and scenery.  It was a perfect end to my visit to Lynn as it finished with the more typical idea I have when I think of the North Shore.

Lynn represents much of what the North Shore is all about, but then has a completely different side more closely matching a big city.  General Electric can trace its roots back to this small city which in and of itself is cause for an article.  Beyond that are the two stone towers with amazing views: High Rock Tower and the Stone Tower at the Lynn Woods Reservation.

After seeing those sights you can end the day at the perfect location along the ocean.  Watching the waves crash on the rocks at Lynn Shore was soothing and allowed me to rewind my mind back through my trip and enjoy it all over again.  I highly recommend paying the city of Lynn a visit, there is no limit to what you can see here.  Have fun and happy traveling!


My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions: Lynn Woods Reservation:  From Rt. 3 heading north take Exit 20B to merge onto I-93, take Exit 37A to merge onto I-95 north.  Take Exit 44B for Rt. 129 east, at rotary take 2^nd exit to stay on Rt. 129, turn right at Great Woods Rd.  Follow it to the end, this parking area is closest to Stone Tower.

High Rock Tower:  From Rt. 3 heading north take Exit 20B to merge onto I-93, take Exit 20 toward Logan Airport, merge onto I-90 east.  Continue to Rt. 1-A north, slight left at Rt. 60 west.  At rotary take 2^nd exit for Rt. 107 north.  Turn right at Chestnut St.  Tower is on right.

Lynn Shore:  From Rt. 3 heading north take Exit 20B to merge onto I-93, take Exit 20 toward Logan Airport, merge onto I-90 east.  Continue to Rt. 1-A north, at rotary take 2^nd exit for Rt. 1-A north.  Continue onto Lynnway, at rotary take 1^st exit onto Nahant Rd., make a U-Turn at Wilson Rd. 

References: City of Lynn - Official Site

            Friends of Lynn Woods

            History of High Rock Tower - North Shore Comm. College

            Lynn Shores - DCR