In My Footsteps: Trip 47: Jamestown, RI

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In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 47: Jamestown, RI

May 13, 2010

            Perhaps known by many as a throughway connecting Newport and Narragansett, Jamestown and Conanicut Island are filled with amazing sites.  The Newport Bridge brings you into Jamestown from the east and the Jamestown Verrazzano Bridge takes you to Narragansett to the west, but anybody who decides to visit either of those two incredible destinations needs to stop and give Jamestown a longer look.

            The island was home for hundreds of years to the Narragansett tribe of Native Americans, at least during the warmer months.  Conanicut Island is named for the Narragansett ‘sachem,’ or chief, Canonicus, who gave the English settlers permission to let their sheep graze on the island in 1638.  The oldest Native American artifacts found on the island an in the surrounding waters date back to 3,000 B.C.  It is here on Conanicut Island that the largest number of Native American burying ground in New England exists. 

            Jamestown itself was incorporated as a town in 1678 and named for James, Duke of York who would become King James II in 1685.  In addition to having strong ties to early-American and Native American history, Jamestown boasts several spectacular historic and natural landmarks that are must see attractions.

            The first spot I went to was the home of the third oldest lighthouse in America: Beavertail State Park.  Located on the southern tip of Conanicut Island, Beavertail State Park is more than just the home to Beavertail Light, but let’s start there.  Beavertail Light(above) was originally established in 1749 but has been rebuilt a few times in the years since, most recently after the Hurricane of 1938.  It has a very unique look, a smoky-gray stone rectangle; overlooking Narragansett Bay it is an incredible site. 

            Beavertail State Park is not just about the lighthouse though.  The shores all around the point are filled with slopes of rocks where the waves crash, while I was there I spotted many people sitting on their beach chairs perched on the rocks enjoying the sun.  There are small beaches along the shore as well if you are willing to climb down the rocks to get to them.   

            Another great spot to visit is the site of the Jamestown Windmill.  The current windmill, standing thirty-feet tall, was built in 1787 for the purpose of grinding corn.  The previous mill was destroyed by British troops around the time of the Battle of Rhode Island.  While it was operational it had to rely on the ocean’s breezes to power the windmill since Jamestown does not have any sort of running water to do that job.  The windmill is located on North Road and is open to the public on weekends during the summer.

            Fort Wetherill(right) was a strategic military location a few miles north of the southern tip of Conanicut Island.  It became a government run military base named in 1899, during the Spanish-American War.  It was named for Jamestown native Alexander Macom Wetherill who was killed at the Battle of San Juan Hill.  Inside the fort has been basically untouched since it was shut down in 1946.  The concrete structures that are built into the granite hillside were put in place prior to World War II.  Now there are trees and plants growing along the openings to the concrete structures.  It is a very eerie feeling going inside and walking down the hallways littered with crumbled concrete.  I found it ominous that each of the other openings down one of the hallways were blocked by growing trees.

            The site became a state park in the early-1970’s, it is fifty-two acres of amazing scenic views.  A dirt pathway takes you up a hill and lets you see the fort from above.  It is fenced in and not accessible but that should not take away from the trip.  From atop this hill there are no limit of sights: Narragansett Bay, Castle Hill Lighthouse in Newport, and Fort Adams which is almost directly across from Fort Wetherill.  I had a great time exploring this area; the beautiful sunny day only added to my experience.

            The final spot I visited during my time in Jamestown was the East Ferry Landing(right).  This is the area where ferry boats came across Narragansett Bay from Newport until 1969 when the Newport Bridge was opened.  The sailboats that are a symbol of the sea life around the Rhode Island coast were on display along Narragansett Bay stretching all the way down to the Newport Bridge.  It was around this time that I felt like I was seeing the soul of Rhode Island, the boats on the water, the shops on the wharf, all images I needed to burn into my mind.

            Though there are these sites I have listed here that should be visited it is just as good to come over either of the bridges and simply drive all over Conanicut Island.  I enjoyed doing just that.  It is while you take your time and explore a place like Jamestown that you really get a feel for what it is like.  Being that it is less than twenty-five square miles in size it is very easy to see all of the island in a day.

            Whether visiting Beavertail State Park, Fort Wetherill, Jamestown Windmill, or simply cruising the beautiful island roads you can’t go wrong.  I did both and loved it all.  Jamestown and Conanicut Island are one and the same, they are filled with history and house incredible views of the sea from all sides.  I highly recommend taking the time to cross either the Jamestown Bridge or Newport Bridge(left) and giving some time to this beautiful island town.  Have fun and happy traveling!  




     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Beavertail State Park: From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway.  Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3^rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West.  Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., right at Canonicus Ave., Canonicus Ave. becomes Walcott Ave.  Turn right at Hamilton Ave., Hamilton Ave. becomes Beavertail Rd. follow it to the park.

            Fort Wetherill:  From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway.  Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3^rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West.  Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., right at Canonicus Ave., Canonicus Ave. becomes Walcott Ave.  Take slight left at Fort Wetherill Rd., take the 2^nd right, turn right park will be on the left. 

            Jamestown Windmill:  From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway.  Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3^rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West.  Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., left at Canonicus Ave., take 3^rd right onto Bryer Ave., turn right at Prudence Lane.  Prudence Lane turns left and becomes Whittier Rd., turn right at N. Rd.  The windmill is .1 miles up on the right.

            East Ferry Landing:  From I-195 headed west take Exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue on Rt. 24 until exiting for Rt. 114, turn right at Coddington Highway.  Continue onto JT O’Connell Rd., take 3^rd exit at rotary for Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Take ramp onto Rt. 138 West.  Take Jamestown Bridge-it is a toll road, right at E. Shore Rd., right at Canonicus Ave., East Ferry Landing is on the left.

References:  Jamestown, RI Visitor Info

            RI Parks - Beavertail State Park

            RI Parks - Fort Wetherill

            Jamestown Historical Society
 

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In My Footsteps: Trip 46: Wellfleet, Mass. - Part Two

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In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 46: Wellfleet, Mass. – Part Two

April 28, 2010

            My second journey through Wellfleet had just as much to do with what was there as with what used to be there.  Wellfleet is the setting of two of the most fascinating Cape Cod legends.  Neither the Chequesset Inn nor Billingsgate Island still exist but their presence is still felt all over this town.  

 

-->           Billingsgate Island, now known as Billingsgate Shoal, is an article in and of itself.  I first became acquainted with this Cape Cod legend while at 4 C’s.  In my research for an article on erosion I came across this one-time small island community located a mile south of Jeremy Point.  At its peak in the 17^th century Billingsgate Island was approximately sixty acres in size.  At one point in the mid-1800’s the island had thirty homes, a schoolhouse, a lighthouse(left), and even a baseball team.  The lighthouse was originally built in 1822 and was rebuilt twice before finally being destroyed due to erosion in 1915.

          

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           The erosion of the island was exacerbated by the fact that the inhabitants removed the trees holding the land together and allowed their livestock to graze on the land removing much of the beach grass.  After the island was virtually deserted around the time of World War I due to the extensive erosion many of the structures were floated off the island and reestablished in Wellfleet, Brewster, and West Barnstable.  Today all that remains of Billingsgate Island is a large sandbar at low tide with pieces of the lighthouse foundation and a scattering of bricks still to be found. 

 

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Billingsgate’s remains are accessible at low tide and the area is large enough for shellfishing and picnicking, but that’s about it.  The legend of this once thriving island community still lives throughout Wellfleet as many of the island’s homes ended up here.  It is said that Holbrook Avenue near Wellfleet Harbor is one hotspot for finding former Billingsgate homes.  Although in my research I found out that many of the homes on Holbrook are from Bound Brook Island near Wellfleet as well.  The guessing is half the fun.  The only spot that I know for certain once resided on Billingsgate Island now exists as part of the Wicked Oyster restaurant at 50 Main Street in Wellfleet as it is mentioned in its history.  

 

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The Chequesset Inn(right, above) has a history as rich as Billingsgate.  It was an incredible luxury resort built in 1902 on the 400-foot Mercantile Wharf that was comprised of sixty-two rooms.  The resort helped make Wellfleet a huge tourist destination but the rough waters of the harbor ended up claiming the Chequesset Inn in 1934.  A cold winter filled the harbor with ice and these chunks ravaged the pier’s pilings until the Mercantile Wharf collapsed during one particular winter storm.  The Inn was taken down shortly thereafter as was the pier.  There is a marker on the curve of Kendrick Avenue designating where the Mercantile Wharf jutted out into the harbor.  To the east is Mayo Beach and to the west of the marker are the Wellfleeter Condos, it is a very awe-inspiring feeling to stand at the edge of the water knowing what used to be there seventy-five years ago(right, below).  At low tide it is still possible to see the tops of what remains of the pilings that once made up Mercantile Wharf.

 

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            Mayo Beach, located next to Wellfleet Harbor, is a great beach with several great views.  To the east is the harbor while the Wellfleet Breakwater Beach is to the southeast and Jeremy Point and Great Island stretch out to the southwest; it is easy to become mesmerized by this unique area of Cape Cod.  There is another great spot to check out along Mayo Beach when you look inward away from the water. 

The parking lot is a sort of semi-circle of asphalt and in the middle is a grassy area containing a very old oyster shack(left).  The eight by ten cedar shack, built in 1935, once belonged to a man named Earle Rich and was moved to Mayo Beach in November.  It had originated along Duck Creek’s railroad bridge since back then oysters were sent to Boston and New York by train.  It is a great piece of Cape Cod history that is very accessible; these shacks once covered the shores along most of the Cape as little as sixty years ago.

 

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The Wellfleet Town Pier is a great spot to have lunch and just watch the fishermen and average boaters come in and out of the harbor.  Holbrook Avenue, the supposed resting place of many Billingsgate Island homes sits only a few hundred yards north for some perspective.  It is incredible for me to imagine how the actual lay of the land along the harbor has remained basically the same over the past hundred years and yet how much it has changed.

            Only a hundred years ago there was a huge resort stretching out into the water and Billingsgate Island still existed, although it was only inhabited by a lighthouse keeper and a few brave souls that spent days at a time alone shellfishing.  What happened to the Chequesset Inn and Billingsgate is a prime example of the fury of the sea.  It is possible that thousands of years from now people will be speaking of Cape Cod in the same way I am speaking of Billingsgate now; a once thriving community that the ocean reclaimed.

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The histories of these two Cape legends can be found at the Wellfleet Historical Society, the Nickerson Room at Cape Cod Community College, along with the Wellfleet book in the Images of America series.  These stories are fascinating, and not that well known with all of the hundreds of other more famous stories in Cape Cod history.  I highly recommend visiting Wellfleet and taking a look at where the Chequesset Inn once stood.  Or, if you are truly adventurous you could sail out to Billingsgate Shoal and stand where a once thriving community once stood.  That is definitely on my agenda at some point in the future.  Have fun and happy traveling!

     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions: Mayo Beach: From Rt. 6 heading north turn left onto Main Street.  Turn left at E. Commercial Street, continue onto Commercial Street, continue onto Kendrick Avenue.  Mayo Beach is on the left.  The marker for Chequesset Inn is on the curve next to Wellfleeter Condos.

References:  Wellfleet Historical Society

            A Story of Billingsgate Island

            History of Billingsgate Lighthouse

            The Wicked Oyster Restaurant

Billingsgate Light photo found here: Smithsonian National Museum of American History

Chequesset Inn photo found here:  Google Books: Wellfleet: A Cape Cod Village

South Wellfleet on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Cape Cod's Lighthouses

In My Footsteps – Cape Cod’s Lighthouses

Christopher Setterlund

            Lighthouses.  Their defined purpose is that of steering ships from the treacherous coasts that they inhabit.  These guardian angel structures do their job and yet have also gained stature as historic landmarks wherever they stand.  For me, any of my trips that have included coastlines have to include at least one lighthouse; they make the trip.  Luckily for me there are many of these amazing beacons located such a short drive away all over Cape Cod. 

            Incredibly the first lighthouse was not built in America, nor was it even built in the last thousand years.  No, the first example of a structure built to aid in navigation for sailors was the Lighthouse of Alexandria.  Built between 280 and 247 B.C. on the island of Pharos at Alexandria, Egypt the lighthouse was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.  It used fire and reflective mirrors to produce a visible light and was said to be visible from up to twenty-nine miles away due to its incredible height of between 393-450 feet.  Two earthquakes in 1303 and 1323 damaged the lighthouse so much that it was rendered useless; its remains are able to be seen during diving expeditions.

            Cape Cod’s lighthouses can be divided into three categories: easy access, difficult access, and inaccessible.  Obviously the easily accessible lighthouses are the most popular as well. 

Easy Access:  First on this list is Nobska Light(left) in Falmouth.  Located right on the point of Nobska Road and Church Street the current tower was built in 1876 and overlooks a tremendous view of Vineyard Sound, Martha’s Vineyard, and the Elizabethan Islands.  It is available to be toured on specific dates set by the Coast Guard from June to August.

            Also falling into the easily accessible lighthouses is Chatham Light.  Located right across the street from North Beach and run by the Coast Guard, this lighthouse is still an active aid for sea travelers.  Built in 1877 Chatham Light was originally one of two towers on the same location; ironically the second tower is next on the list of easily accessible lights. 

            Nauset Light in Eastham(right) once resided along the shores of Chatham before being moved further north in 1923.  This tower stands out with its red and white body and hovers over Nauset Beach from its perch on a hill.  You can walk right up to the tower here and place your hands on a piece of history.  It is probably this reason that makes it my personal favorite of the lights listed here.  

            Difficult Access:  The second category of lighthouses, the difficult to access lights, deals with ones that you can get to but it takes a bit of leg work.  All of these are highly recommended and the walks are very much worth it.  One such lighthouse is Stage Harbor Light in Chatham.  Located at the mouth of Stage Harbor it does not have its lantern top anymore and is a mile walk down Harding’s Beach.  The walk is surprisingly easy as the dirt path taken doubles as the road for vehicles going to the lighthouse.  The immediate area around the lighthouse is private but you get very close and the beach which faces the Monomoy Wildlife Refuge is very secluded due to its distance from the parking lot.

            Cape Cod Light, also known as Highland Light, in Truro is not as long of a walk but it is still enough of a drive off of the beaten path that I decided to include it here.  This light is unique due to how much it was affected by erosion from the Atlantic Ocean.  Built in 1857 this tower was originally five hundred feet from the coast, by 1990 it was only a hundred feet away, and another forty feet of land was lost during 1990 alone.  In 1996 Highland Light was jacked up and moved to a spot 570-feet from the menacing sea.  The grounds are open year round and the lighthouse itself opens for tours in mid-May including the unique ‘full moon tours’ when appropriate.

            Finally in the list of difficult to access lighthouses on the Cape is Race Point Light in Provincetown(left).  It is accessible from two spots, both are long ways.  First if you have the ability you may drive out to the lighthouse from Race Point Beach, a nearly two-mile drive.  Second is the way I went which is to walk the Province Lands bike trail which begins at the end of the Herring Cove Beach parking lot.  From there you may take a dirt road which connects with the four-wheeling dirt road that leads to the lighthouse, about a mile and a half total.  It sounds like a lot of walking, and it is, but the feeling I got standing next to the lighthouse was one of total peace.  On my trip there the only sounds were the ocean waves and the sea birds.  As with the other lighthouses listed it is well worth the trip.

Inaccessible:  I won’t spend too much time with the inaccessible lighthouses as they are only able to be viewed from a distance, but they are huge parts of Cape Cod history.  Out on the private Great Island in West Yarmouth is Point Gammon Light which is best viewed from the ferry or Centerville’s beaches.  It can be seen from two-miles away but can only be visited with permission from a resident of the island.

            Monomoy Point Lighthouse is located out on South Monomoy Island off the coast of Chatham.  Only accessible by boat it is located a mile from shore and is possibly the least visited lighthouse on the Cape due to its remoteness.  There are excursions to the island which include a visit to the lighthouse; it is the only evidence of any human presence on the island.

            On the west coast of the Cape is Wings Neck Light in Pocasset(right) which is at the end of a private road and is probably better off being viewed from the water.  While on the water in that area there is also Cleveland Ledge Light, a lesser known lighthouse named for President Grover Cleveland.  Located eight miles southwest of the mouth of the Cape Cod Canal this lighthouse was the last commissioned to be built in New England in 1943.  It is visible from Old Silver Beach in Falmouth, or by boat.

            No need to worry about those lighthouses that you cannot reach; there are so many that can be visited that seeing them all will take several days.  Nobska, Chatham, and Nauset Lights are right on main roads you can reach out and touch them.  While Stage Harbor, Highland, and Race Point Lights are a bit of a hike they are great for excursions on a sunny day.  The history of the lighthouse goes back more than 2000 years and even though the Cape Cod lighthouses don’t go back that far they all are their own slice of history individually.  I highly recommend each and every one of them, even the ones that are harder to get to if you so desire.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Nobska Light, Falmouth: From Rt. 28 heading west take left onto Shore St.  Continue onto Surf Dr., continue onto Beach Rd.  Continue onto Oyster Pond Rd., take left onto Fay Rd, bear left onto Nobska Rd.  Lighthouse will be on the right.

            Chatham Light:  From Rt. 28 heading east, take 3^rd exit at rotary for Main St.  Turn right to stay on Main St., lighthouse is on the right, parking across the street.

            Nauset Light, Eastham:  From Rt. 6 heading north turn right onto Nauset Rd., continue onto Doane Rd.  Turn left onto Ocean View Dr., follow it to Nauset Light Beach on right, lighthouse is across the street.

References:  Lighthouse of Alexandria - Wikipedia

            Jeremy D'Entremont's Guide to New England Lighthouses

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In My Footsteps: Trip 45: Dennis, Mass. - Part Two

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 45: Dennis, Mass. – Part Two

April 21, 2010

            After living on Cape Cod for nearly the entirety of my life it is difficult for me to find places that I either had not known about or had not seen.  On this second trip through Dennis I was able to discover one such place.  The town of Dennis, though settled by Thomas Howes and John Crowe (Crowell), got its name for the resident minister Josiah Dennis.  His saltbox home, the Josiah Dennis Manse, built in 1736, is a must see which functions as a museum as well.  Though it is highly recommended the museum is currently being renovated and will not be opened to the public again until 2011.

            The north side of Dennis has an incredible stretch of beaches that are some of the most popular on the Cape.  My beach of choice is Corporation Beach due to the scenic overlook that gives you a view of the beach below from about thirty feet up(left).  On a clear day you can easily see all the way up the coastline to Provincetown with the Pilgrim Monument standing out against the sky.  Another great view at Corporation Beach happens during big storms.  There is a long rock wall, separating the private homes from the ocean, which runs parallel to the parking lot about fifty feet out.  During these storms it is fun to park and watch the ocean waves crashing up and over the rock wall.  These views are what make Corporation Beach unique. 

Still, if that is not your thing, Chapin Beach offers a different sort of thrill which is off-roading.  The route to Chapin Beach is nearly two and a half miles leading to a very secluded parking lot; though in summer it is extremely crowded.  Those vehicles with the capability may opt to drive out along the beach which extends out to where the Chase Garden Creek Salt Marsh empties into Cape Cod Bay.  From there you have a great view of both Sandy Neck in Sandwich and the close by Grey’s Beach, also known as Bass Hole. 

After hitting the beaches there are more historical sites to see and of course they lie on Route 6A.  Around the intersection of 6A and Old Bass River Road there are a few places close together which makes it a great area to park and walk.  Located directly across the street from one another are two historic places.  The Carleton Hall, built in 1828, was originally created to be a Methodist ‘praying house.’  It was purchased in 1865 by Captain Carleton Howes and a group of local citizens to be used for community activities.  It is still used for that purpose to this day.

Across the street from the Carleton Hall, and next door to the fire station, is the Dennis Union Church(right).  Originally established in 1727 this church still plays the chimes at the tops of the hours.  It is incredible to be there at noon when it is almost as if an entire concert is being played for those in and around the church.  It has a large green in front of it with a gazebo; this spot is a tremendous place to get out of the hot sun, or to just sit and people watch along 6A.

Not more than a few hundred yards from the Dennis Union Church is the famous Dennis Playhouse(left).  It is the country’s oldest professional summer theatre.  Originally a Uniatrian Meeting House the Playhouse was begun by California native Raymond Moore in 1927.  A frequent visitor to Provincetown where he worked in the theatres there Moore desired to have a theatre of his own.  The first performance came on July 4, 1927 and was The Guardsman featuring Basil Rathbone.  In the time since many world famous performers have graced the stage inside the Playhouse or, in the case of Bette Davis, been discovered there.  Ms. Davis worked as an usher in the Playhouse when it opened.  Gregory Peck, Lana Turner, Humphrey Bogart, and Ginger Rogers are just a few of the performers that include shows at the Playhouse on their resumes.

Finally we come to a spot in Dennis that I had never actually been to.  Crows Pasture sits on South Street past the Quivett Cemetery on the east side of Sesuit Harbor.  The road out to Crows Pasture Beach is long, bumpy, and unpaved.  It is recommended that you take it slow, or better yet have a vehicle capable of four-wheel drive.  The scenery is amazing, especially during a first drive out there.  The 138-acre conservation area has many designated parking areas with views of Cape Cod Bay and the neighboring Quivett Creek Marsh(left).  On this trip I witnessed a few people out on the beach at low-tide shellfishing.  It is possible to park and any of the designated areas and taking a walk to the beach or to Coles Pond which sits in the northeast section of Crows Pasture and only a few hundred yards from the ocean.

Though it is relatively hidden to those unfamiliar with it, Crows Pasture is a spot in which a day can easily be spent simply enjoying the solitude and beauty of untouched Cape Cod.  I left there feeling like it was a part of the National Seashore on the mid-Cape; an area large enough to give you the feeling that it looked much the same as when the first settlers gazed upon it for the first time.

Whether taking a walk along Rt. 6A, where nearly everything has historical significance, or enjoying the untouched solitude of Crows Pasture, Dennis is a destination point with limitless possibilities for good times.  I enjoyed taking another look at the amazing sites that are in my own backyard and absolutely recommend any visitor to the Cape take some time to enjoy what this town has to offer.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Corporation Beach: From Rt. 6A heading east, turn left onto Corporation Rd.  Follow it to the beach.  Chapin Beach: From Rt. 6A heading east, turn left at New Boston Rd., take quick right onto Beach St.  Continue onto Taunton Ave., turn left at Dr. Botero Rd., continue onto Chapin Beach Rd.  Follow it to parking lot.

Crows Pasture:  From Rt. 6A heading east turn left onto School St.  Take first right at South Street.  Follow it past the cemetery on the right.  Entrance to Crows Pasture is straight ahead, remember road is dirt so drive carefully.

References:  Cape Playhouse     

            Dennis Historical Society

            Dennis Chamber of Commerce

Dennis on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 44: Chatham, Mass. - Part Two

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 44: Chatham, Mass. – Part Two

April 22, 2010

            When visiting a place filled with as many amazing sites as Chatham is it becomes hard to fit them all into one article and not have it become long-running and boring.  That being said, my second visit to Chatham was every bit as good as the first, if not better, thanks to the influx of sunny spring weather.  Of course when visiting I had to go back over those places I had seen and written about during my first article, it is only natural.  When you drive down Main Street and pass by Chatham Light and North Beach it is impossible not to stop at least momentarily and take a deep breath.

            One spot I missed the first time around actually ties into Chatham Light.  The Atwood House(left), which doubles as a museum, is virtually unchanged since it was built by sea captain Joseph Atwood in 1752.  Five generations of the Atwood family were raised in the house.  The only major change in the historic home was the wing added to it in 1833 by Joseph Atwood’s grandson, John, for his wife in 1833. 

            In addition to the Atwood House there are other items to see.  There is the Nickerson North Beach Camp which was built in 1947 by Joshua Atkins Nickerson II, a descendent of Chatham founder William Nickerson.  It once sat in a row of about fifty similar dune shacks along North Beach before the break in the beach in 1987 caused the shack to be moved in 1990.  What amazed me was to find out that back in those days right after World War II if you so desired you could lug your own materials out to the beach and build your own dune shack.

            Not to be forgotten is the before mentioned connection to Chatham Light and that is the one of the original lanterns of the Twin Lights which is located on the far side of the parking lot.  The second light is now known as Nauset Light as it was moved to Eastham in 1923.  The lantern(left) was removed from Chatham Light in 1969 and donated to the Historical Society.  With the lantern intact it is possible to walk around on it and imagine what it was like when this piece of history was guiding ships that came close to North Beach more than forty years ago.

            With miles of beautiful beaches in Chatham it is possible to overlook Oyster Pond(right).  Situated near Main Street and actually connected to the ocean by the narrow Oyster River, this water body is a great spot to enjoy a swim or a picnic.  The picnic area is one thing that makes the pond stand out from the beaches and the surrounding area has been renovated in the past few years as well.  It is a perfect getaway from the busy beaches during the summer, the water is warmer and calm, there are boats but it is a very safe environment.  Not to be missed is Oyster Pond’s proximity to Chatham’s Main Street, it is a short walk to many of the town’s shops and restaurants.  It is possible to grab a bite to eat, or some snacks, and stop off at Oyster Pond to enjoy them.

            The last place I visited is a place mentioned in my first Chatham article.  While walking along the shore of the Monomoy Wildlife Refuge I had come to the mouth of Stage Harbor and was able to view Stage Harbor Light on the other side of the water.  On this day I wanted to see it up close.  To do so you need to take a trip to Harding’s Beach.  The beach has two parking lots connected by a short road, it has a fabulous view of Monomoy Island to the east.

            Stage Harbor Light is visible from the moment you get into the second parking lot, though it does sit about a mile down the beach.  The tower itself was built in 1880 but deactivated in 1933.  The lantern has been removed and the surrounding property is private, still you get a very close up look while respecting the boundaries.

            I thought that the walk out to the lighthouse was going to be rough much like the walk across Herring Cove Beach to get to Race Point Light.  However, I was pleasantly surprised that the pathway, being used by vehicles to get to the light, was much sturdier and the walk was easier.  Along with the skeleton of the lighthouse there is still the original lighthouse keepers house, a shed, and an outhouse remaining on the property.

            My visit to Stage Harbor Light(left) was a perfect cap to this trip.  When standing alone on the western shore of Stage Harbor, facing the Monomoy Wildlife Refuge, it was so peaceful that I had to take some time to sit in the sand and enjoy the sounds of the waves and the sights of a pair of osprey circling and looking for lunch.  I highly recommend at least one trip to Stage Harbor Light but remember the actual structures are private.  That will not dampen the experience though.

            Chatham holds so many amazing places and sites that I was bound to have missed some on my first trip through.  It is remarkable that a renowned fishing village can pack so much into a relatively small area.  Sitting at the ‘elbow’ of Cape Cod, Chatham is a spot that needs to be visited and enjoyed over and over.  I am guessing I might have missed something else on my second trip as well!  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Atwood House & Museum:  From Rt. 28 heading east, take 2^nd exit in the rotary for Stage Harbor Road.  Museum is at 347 Stage Harbor Rd., on the left.  Chatham Light lantern is on right side of parking lot.

            Oyster Pond:  From Rt. 28 heading east, take 2^nd exit in rotary for Stage Harbor Road.  Oyster Pond is on the right a half mile down the road.

            Stage Harbor Light/Harding’s Beach:  From Rt. 28 heading east, turn right onto Barn Hill Rd., just after Kream ‘N Kone.  Turn right onto Harding’s Beach Rd., follow it to parking lot.  Lighthouse is a mile walk away down the beach, pathway begins at end of parking lot.

References:  New England Lighthouses - Stage Harbor Light

            Chatham Historical Society

            My Chatham.com - Oyster Pond       

           

Chatham on Dwellable