The northeast
corner of the island of Martha’s Vineyard is home to a town that
combines the plentiful ocean views with spectacular attractions and
history. Here is a little taste of Oak Bluffs.
The
town of Oak Bluffs was originally incorporated in 1880 and known as
Cottage City based on the fact that it was mainly a seasonal village
in the beginning. As it became more of a year-round place to live
the name was changed to Oak Bluffs in 1907. The town covers
7.37-square miles and is stocked full of incredible restaurants,
shops, historical sites, beaches, and natural beauty.
The ferry is the
most common way to traverse across Vineyard Sound to the island,
although it is also possible to fly. The Steamship Authority runs
ferries from Woods Hole to Vineyard Haven year round. They also run
ferries directly into Oak Bluffs from mid-May through late-October.
These ferries take approximately forty-five minutes and are quick and
safe.
The approach to Oak
Bluffs is dotted with anchored boats and other vessels passing by as
you head in toward an island which feels like Cape Cod yet not. The
ferry terminal faces Seaview Avenue and Oak Bluffs Avenue while
giving you a feast for the eyes as far as sights go. Directly to the
north of the terminal is the Oak Bluffs Fishing Pier. Stretching
just over 300-feet out into the ocean this pier was first opened in
June 2014 and cost $1 million. It is a tremendous spot to watch the
passing boats, take in the sea breezes and salt air, or of course
fish.
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| The Ocean Park bandstand |
Before even
stepping on to dry land your eyes are drawn to Ocean Park and its
historic bandstand. Surrounded by Victorian homes this green open space
is routinely filled with people. One of the homes facing the park,
the Tucker House, is famous for having President Ulysses S. Grant
there in 1874 to watch fireworks from the roof of the home. The
annual summer fireworks held in August draw upwards of 5,000 people
in and around the park.
Whether you travel
north or south from the ferry docks there are great recreation
opportunities. There are many ways to get around if you don’t
bring your own transportation from the Vineyard Transit Authority
buses to stopping at Anderson’s Bike Rentals in season on Circuit
Avenue Extension.
To the north you
pass around Oak Bluffs Harbor which is filled with boats coming and
going. Turn right off Lake Avenue onto East Chop Drive and head out
to East Chop Lighthouse situated on Telegraph Hill. The route out to
East Chop Light has changed in the last year or so. In April 2018 it
was announced that a particularly vulnerable section of the roadway
would be closed to vehicle traffic, although still open to
pedestrians and bicycles. The 2,000-foot gap in the road between
Brewster Avenue and Munroe Avenue are still closed as of September
2019 due to the severely eroding bluffs. A plan is ready to help
stabilize the bluff, however the town still needs much of the funding
to enact it.
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| East Chop Lighthouse |
The current East
Chop Lighthouse is the third structure at the site having been
erected in 1878 and stands forty-feet tall. Ironically the previous
East Chop Light, which was built as part of a home, still stands on
the corner of East Chop Drive and Sandy Bluff Lane a few hundred
yards east, although greatly altered so one would never know it used
to be a lighthouse. East Chop Lighthouse has beautiful views of
Vineyard Sound and Falmouth in the distance and the entrance way
through a turnstile surrounded by white picket fence is sublime.
When venturing
south from the Steamship Authority docks it is a tale of spectacular
beaches. It begins only a few hundred yards south with Inkwell
Beach. This small stretch of beach bordered by a pair of jetties
sitting adjacent from Waban Park has a name that has been up for
debate regarding its origins. It is possible that Inkwell Beach got
its name from the fact that it was frequented by African-Americans
beginning in the late 1800’s. The other possibility is that it was
named Inkwell due to the fact that many prominent writers from Oak
Bluffs went there as a way to clear their minds.
Further south along
Beach Road, running into Edgartown, is Joseph Sylvia State Beach.
Originally known as State Beach the two-mile barrier beach is very
popular due to its connection to the movie Jaws. The bridge which
connects Oak Bluffs to Edgartown across Sengekontacket Pond is known
as the Jaws Bridge due to its appearance in a famous scene in the
movie. The beach was renamed after Joseph A. Sylvia in 1968. He was
a member of the Massachusetts House of Representatives who was
instrumental in the state’s acquisition and protection of the
beach.
The crown jewel of
Oak Bluffs sits away from the beaches. The Martha’s Vineyard Camp
Meeting Association Campground is home to the iconic Gingerbread
Cottages. There are just over 300 cottages situated roughly in a
circle around the iron Tabernacle which was built in 1879. The
unique and colorful cottages draw countless visitors to the grounds
which began as a religious ‘camp meeting’ site just after the
Civil War. It began with tents and grew to more permanent dwellings
in the form of small cottages. Earlier camp meetings were held on
Cape Cod, including the first on record at Bound Brook Island in
Wellfleet in 1819.
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| A gingerbread cottage during Grand Illumination Night |
Although any time
is a good time to visit the thirty-four acres of wonderful
gingerbread cottages perhaps there is no better time than Grand
Illumination Night. Held on the third Wednesday evening in August
annually this tradition began all the way back in 1869. It was a way
to honor the visit of Massachusetts Governor William Claflin and has
grown into the highlight of the summer on Martha’s Vineyard. The
event is known for all of the gingerbread cottages being creatively
decorated with Chinese lanterns that draws thousands of people.
Earlier festivities in the evening consist of sing-alongs in the
Tabernacle and a ceremonial lighting of the first lantern to kick
things off. It is an unforgettable event, although it is likely for
the best if you spend the night as trying to catch the last ferry off
of the Vineyard is extremely difficult with thousands of onlookers
crowded into the MVCMA area.
There is so much to
see and enjoy in Oak Bluffs that it is not possible to take it all in
if you are pressed for time. Take the time to see all of the sites
mentioned above, but don’t forget other gems like the Flying Horses
Carousel, Sweet Life Cafe, and the one-of-a-kind Back Door Donuts. Oak Bluffs is a vacation within a vacation on Martha’s Vineyard.
Have fun and happy
traveling!
Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com
My 5th book, Cape Cod Nights, is on sale at Amazon.com and through Arcadia Publishing
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