Pages

Showing posts with label newport. Show all posts
Showing posts with label newport. Show all posts

Monday, January 11, 2021

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Storyville

     Cape Cod and Jazz, the two go together like peanut butter and jelly. The beautiful peninsula and the popular music genre have been connected throughout the 20th and 21st centuries. The Columns in West Dennis was well known for its jazz during its 1970’s heyday. However there was a spot which rivaled it as far as sheer talent which appeared there. For a few brief years during the middle of the 20th century one place shined brighter than all others when it came to Cape Cod jazz and that was Storyville in Harwich.

    Storyville may have opened its doors along Pleasant Lake in Harwich in 1957 but its legacy goes back much further to the waning years of the 19th century. In 1897 the original Storyville was opened in New Orleans, Louisiana. As jazz was in its infancy a district of the city was created by Alderman Story to house the new music. Years later accomplished musician George Wein would open his own Storyville in Boston. Wein, who would gain fame for creating the Newport Jazz Festival and Newport Folk Festival, made it his mission to bring the most talented jazz artists to play at his Boston locale. With his success at Storyville-Boston secure Wein planned his next step.

    In 1956 Wein spent the summer in Wellfleet playing music at local nightspots with his close friend Paul Nossiter. It was during this time that he fell in love with Cape Cod and decided that it needed a permanent spot to showcase jazz. He found a perfect spot in a former Cape restaurant. The Robin Hood Inn gained fame during the 1920’s as a Prohibition-era spot being built atop the filled in remains of the Cape’s first cranberry bog owned by Cyrus Cahoon and designed by his cousin Alvan.

    Wein would purchase the former restaurant-turned-inn the following year. Although he added a wing to the home to bring its capacity from 300 up to 600 people he kept much of its medieval interior charm. Storyville-Harwich would set the tone for its all too brief existence on its very first night. It was on July 4, 1957 that the Cape’s hottest jazz club would debut with none other than Louis Armstrong playing two long sets to a raucous crowd. The opening season would see other legends of the day such as Dave Brubek and Erroll Garnor stopping in to ply their trade for week-long engagements. The first season at Storyville would be a huge success, a harbinger of things to come.

Storyville Menu (Worthpoint.com)


    Initially the establishment would serve only drinks to its patrons. However with the rousing success of the opening season Wein decided to serve food as well, hiring a chef and maître d’. Opening night saw throngs of people waiting three hours for their dinners as Wein and Nossiter were not restaurateurs. Though they had the ‘hippest menu’ complete with steaks, ribs, chicken, lobster and more, the foray into serving food lasted only a month as they served high quality food for reasonable prices, losing money on the venture.

    Despite that failure the musical acts continued to be what drew the people. Stars like Ella Fitzgerald, Duke Ellington, Pee Wee Russell, Benny Goodman, Sarah Vaughan, and others would make the trip over the Cape Cod Canal to the woods of rural Harwich to entertain the masses during the ten-week summer season. However the supernova that was Storyville could not be sustained.

The Circus Room of the Bradford Hotel where Storyville-Boston was located in 1959. (Boston Public Library)


    In 1959 the star power was still there with mainstays like Armstrong, Vaughan, Garner, and others returning. However it was a double-edged sword. In order to bring in such acts they needed to be paid, yet there was only so much that Wein and Nossiter could charge people to get into Storyville. This meant that the club was not making much, if anything, in terms of profit. It was around this time that George Wein began being stretched too thin with his commitments to the Newport Jazz Festival, Newport Folk Festival, as well as other projects. He simply could not devote as much time and energy to his Harwich spot.

    In 1960 the star power of the musical acts would wane. As the big names of jazz began to get nationwide exposure Storyville was not able to afford to bring them in to play anymore. Customers had been accustomed to the big names and when they became fewer the business went as well. Wein sold his Boston Storyville location after the 1960 season. It ran for another season under new management before closing for good in 1961. This left Wein to run his Harwich location for one more year.

    Despite the impending end of the establishment the 1961 season still managed to attract megastars like Duke Ellington, Erroll Garner, and Louis Armstrong. However the death knell for Storyville came when the wildly popular Kingston Trio failed to sell enough tickets for a July show and canceled. The rising cost for acts and ticket prices was a combination too powerful for Wein and Nossiter to overcome. Storyville was shuttered after the 1961 season. The building itself would have another chapter, being renamed The Red Garter. The name would be changed again to Your Father’s Moustache due to a copyright problem. It was badly burned in a fire later in the 1960’s.

George Wein in 2009 (Infrogmation/Wikipedia)


    The building was torn down. Your Father's Moustache reopened in Dennis Port in the same building as Improper Bostonian. In the 1970's the site of the former jazz club became home to a housing development roughly in the area of Prince Charles Drive. George Wein continued to be a force in jazz, running the Newport Jazz Festival into 2020. He is still going strong at age 95. As for his contribution to the jazz scene on Cape Cod the only thing left behind is Storyville's legacy of great music.

----------------------------------------------------------


Previous Blog Posts:



Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 81: Newport, New Hampshire

In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund


Trip 81:  Newport, New Hampshire
September 21, 2010


            Very few things I have seen on my travels so far have been as impressive and breathtaking as my drive through Central New Hampshire.  The mountains are all around you and when it is combined with the oncoming fall foliage it makes for a dreamlike experience.
The Pier Bridge
The amazing view inside the Pier Bridge.
            Newport, New Hampshire, located just west of Mt. Sunapee, is the very definition of a mountain town.  The drive to get there, going through the very well known Sunapee area of New Hampshire, is worthy of an article all its own.  I found it very interesting that despite it being for a totally different reason Newport, New Hampshire was just as beautiful as Newport, Rhode Island.  Where Newport, Rhode Island is beautiful thanks to its mansions and scenic coastline Newport, New Hampshire is beautiful thanks to its covered bridges and scenic mountains.
            First settled in 1763 after a delay due to the hostilities of the French and Indian War, Newport became a very prosperous town thanks to its soil and the Sugar River.  A grist mill and cotton mill were established not too long after but it is a project which never got off the ground that I find most interesting.
South Congregational Church
            In 1817, inspired by the development of the Erie Canal in New York, businessmen suggested that a canal be created between the Connecticut and Merrimack Rivers.  This would have begun at the Sugar River in Newport and would have used Lake Sunapee as a reservoir.  For whatever reason, probably money, this proposed canal project was dropped before the first shovel was plunged into the dirt.  Ironically the Newport-based Sibley Scythe Company, established in 1842, supplied the scythes that were used to clear the jungle away from the site of the Panama Canal when construction began in 1903.    
            The first thing I wanted to see when I arrived in Newport was one of the three covered bridges located within its boundaries.  Even with a GPS these magnificent old relics of a forgotten time were very hard to find.  Luckily two of the bridges were located on the same road, Chandler’s Mill Road.      
            Located a mile down Chandler’s Mill Road is Pier Bridge.  The 216-foot long wooden truss bridge was built in 1907 and crosses over the Sugar River.  It was built to replace a wooden lattice bridge from 1871 which was used by the Sugar River Railroad.  The tracks are no longer there but there is a nice, wide dirt path which will lead to the second bridge, Wright Bridge, less than a mile walk away.
Newport's Town Hall & Court House
            For the Pier Bridge there is a small dirt area where I parked, it is an easy walk to the entrance of the bridge.  I have only seen one other covered bridge and that was in Vermont so standing inside this wooden masterpiece with only the sound of the birds and the soft trickling of the water below was something wonderful.  I truly felt like I was alone in the world during the time I was underneath the shelter of Pier Bridge.  The sunlight trickled in from all sides through the small spaces between boards.  It was something that words won’t do justice to, a photo will do much better.
            I did not choose to walk the .8 miles to the Wright Bridge.  Looking back I should have as my treasure hunt using my GPS led me way off track, I ended up at a point where there were no markings on the GPS screen, only white.  Needless to say after a few drives up and down Chandler’s Mill Road I gave up and headed to my next destination.  Still, I was so happy to get to stand underneath one of only eight covered railroad bridges in the entire country.
            The next stop during my time in Newport consisted of a walk down Main Street.  I parked at the historic South Congregational Church, built in 1823, which stands stoically over the surrounding homes and businesses.  The warm autumn day combined with the colorful leaves made this walk a pleasure, however, the places I got to see on Main Street were in a class of their own.
            There is a saying that the ‘whole is greater than the sum of its parts,’ that is sort of the case with Newport’s Main Street.  Yes there are many historic buildings but the entire scene as I walked along through the peaceful mountain town was something I wanted to capture and take with me when I had to leave.
            There is the beautifully sculpted Golden Eagle, a replica of the eagle crafted by Stephen Hasham of Charlestown, New Hampshire which once sat atop the Eagle Hotel.  It will definitely catch your eye as you pass by as it did for a small group of elementary school students who were out on a field trip on this day.  Sometimes that is how I feel as well.
The awe-inspiring Train Mural on Main Street.
            A few steps away is the mammoth brick Newport Town Hall & Court House built in 1886.  In fact there are several brick buildings, all from around the same time period, 1880’s and 1890’s which stand along Main Street.  The really neat thing about them, and this is the case in other towns I have visited, is that they each have names, usually on a smoky gray background.  I saw the Lewis Block, DeWolf, and Wheeler’s Block as I walked.  I can only assume they were named for those who put up the money to have them built.
            One amazing sight, off the beaten path, along the side of the Johnson Block building is ‘The Train Mural.’  It is an awe-inspiring hand painted depiction of the four seasons of New Hampshire along with some well known sites from the town of Newport.  This is a perfect way to get a taste of what this town is really all about if you do not have the time to walk.  I have been unable to find any information as to how old the Train Mural is, or who painted it, but they deserve great thanks for creating something so beautiful.
             Newport, New Hampshire is every bit as beautiful as its counterpart in Rhode Island.  From the covered railroad bridges to the trip to a simpler time that my walk on Main Street provided it is a town that I will not soon forget.  I hope everyone gets the chance at some point to visit this classic mountain town and to take in all of its beauty; it is worth any length of time to get here.  Have fun and happy traveling!  

     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

DirectionsPier Bridge:  From I-89 headed north take Exit 12 for Rt. 11.  Turn left at Rt. 11, follow it 11 miles, turn left at N. Main Street.  Take 3rd right onto Rt. 103, follow 3 miles, turn left at Chandler’s Mill Rd., bridge is 1 mile up on right.
            Main Street:  From I-89 headed north take Exit 12 for Rt. 11.  Turn left at Rt. 11, follow it 11 miles, turn left at N. Main Street, there is parking on the right side of street.   

ReferencesNewport, NH.net
            Newport, NH History.org
           

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 38: Newport, RI - The Mansions

-->
In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 38: Newport, RI – The Mansions
March 25, 2010

            The Mansions of Newport, Rhode Island, just mentioning them conjures up images of incredible architectural beauty along the streets and ocean side.  They have inspiring names like The Breakers and Rosecliff.  Many of them can be toured but there is so much more to the mansions than just the structures themselves.  The history of these amazing homes and how they ended up being built in Newport is nearly as spectacular as the homes are.
            Although they are spread around Newport, mostly along Bellevue Avenue, the best way to enjoy them, as well as the natural beauty of the ocean is along Newport’s famed Cliff Walk.  The development of the walk began all the way back in 1880 but it took more than fifty years to get the walk into serious working order.  Even with the Cliff Walk’s popularity as a tourist destination there are some home owners that do not enjoy the pathway crossing through their property.  All in all however the Cliff Walk has been well received by the mansion owners, many of them have helped in improving the path itself to increase its enjoyability.  For the most part it is a very easy walk with sloping hills on level, paved, ground.  There are a few tough spots and the drop off of the cliffs can be up to seventy-feet, so of course exercise caution while walking. 
            Running a total of three and a half miles along the coast, the Cliff Walk begins at Memorial Boulevard but there are many entrances along the route if you don’t wish to walk the entire length.  I began my journey along the Cliff Walk at the end of Narragansett Avenue which as a great view of Atlantic Beach to the north and of the land across Easton Bay.   
            The first buildings I saw were actually not mansions in the common term.  The buildings are amazing but they are part of Salve Regina University.  Ochre Court(above), which serves as the school’s administration building, is the second largest mansion in Newport behind only The Breakers(right).  It was given to the school as a gift in 1947.  The mansion was originally owned by wealthy New Yorker Ogden Goelet in the 1890’s.  I can only imagine how it is as a student at the university with such incredible views of the ocean and spending so much time in the mansions, it must become commonplace for them.
            Located right after Salve Regina is the largest and perhaps most famous of the mansions in Newport: The Breakers.  As I mentioned in my first Newport article this mansion was owned by the immensely wealthy Vanderbilt family.  Built between 1893 and 1895 this definition of luxury cost more than $7 million back then which when adjusted to today’s dollars ends up being over $150 million.  For pure numbers The Breakers stands on thirteen acres of prime oceanside land, contains seventy rooms, and is approximately 65,000 square feet in size.  It is normally a first stop for any tour of the mansions and one can see why.
            For those who did not read the first Newport article Cornelius Vanderbilt II, the man for whom the mansion was built, was the grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt the patriarch of the family.  At his peak the elder Vanderbilt had a net worth equivalent to more than $143 billion in today’s money.  This was made from shipping and the New York Central Railroad ventures during the mid-19th century.  The Breakers is considered to be the ultimate definition of the ‘Gilded Age,’ which is the period of great economic growth felt in the time after the Civil War up to the end of the 19th century.  Even from a distance behind a fence its majesty is obvious; I had to stand and marvel at it for a while in an attempt to understand what I was seeing.
            Rosecliff(above), the mansion built for silver heiress Theresa Fair Oelrichs, sits on six and a half acres of land and is known for its red striped awning which covers the spacious back porch area.  During my trip the awning was not present however.  Built between 1898 and 1902, Rosecliff cost $2.5 million at the turn of the 20th century and was used for scenes in such films as The Great Gatsby and True Lies.  Mrs. Oelrich’s fortune came from her father, Irish-immigrant, James Graham Fair who made his money thanks to the Comstock Lode in Virginia City, Nevada.  This was the first major discovery of silver ore in the United States in 1859.  Harry Houdini once performed at Rosecliff as Mrs. Oelrich enjoyed throwing lavish parties featuring many of the day’s wealthiest socialites and brightest entertainers.
            Next up was the Marble House(left, top) which has the claim to fame of being the home that began the evolution of Newport from quiet seaside village to wealthy summer getaway.  Built between 1888 and 1892 this summer home for William Vanderbilt, another grandson of the ‘Commodore’ Cornelius Vanderbilt, has more to offer than just the incredible 500,000 cubic feet of marble.  In addition to the main house which cost $11 million, more than $250 million today, there is a surprising sight, a Chinese Tea House(left, bottom) that looms on the periphery of the grounds just above a tunnel which takes you underneath the Marble House property.  Built in 1914 by Mrs. Alva Belmont, she divorced Vanderbilt but kept the house, after her second husband died, the Tea House was used as a rallying spot for women’s right to vote.  It was an unexpected sight in the sea of marble castles to see a piece of Eastern architecture sitting amongst them.
            The Cliff Walk in Newport is one of the most celebrated areas in New England.  It is a mix of two of my favorite things, the beauty of the ocean and amazing pieces of American history.  It sells itself but I highly recommend walking here, even if it is only a short walk.  Whether it’s Salve Regina University, The Breakers, Rosecliff, or the Marble House with its amazing Tea House, anyone reading this needs to visit Newport and see these incredible mansions in person.  Have fun and happy traveling!


     My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions: Cliff Walk:  From I-195 take Exit 8A for Rt. 24.  Slight left onto Rt. 114, slight left onto Rt. 214.  Rt. 214 becomes Rt. 138A, follow until a left at Bellevue Avenue.  Turn right at Narragansett Avenue, follow it to the end, this is a great spot to begin Cliff Walk, Salve Regina is first of mansions.
ReferencesNewport Mansions.org
            Cliff Walk.com  

Sunday, April 4, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 37: Newport, RI

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 37: Newport, RI

March 25, 2010



     My visit to the amazing town of Newport will take two articles as there is so much more to see than simply the beautiful mansions. That said, the mansions themselves will be the focus of the second article; this one deals with the entirety of Newport. This article is proof that Newport stands out as one of the greatest attractions in the country.

Newport is part of Aquidneck Island which is the largest island in the state of Rhode Island. The town was formed in 1639 when eight men left nearby Portsmouth due to fallout with pioneer settler Anne Hutchinson. As part of the agreement the defectors received control of the southern part of the island which became Newport.

It became clear to me just how rich in history Newport is as soon as I took the turn from Broadway onto Washington Square. It was as if everywhere I looked there was a piece of history staring back at me. It is actually not far from the truth. There is a 250-acre section of the center of Newport that is designated as a National Historic Landmark due to its collection of pristine colonial-era homes and buildings.

I found a lot to park in and began walking. In the middle of Washington Square sits Eisenhower Park a nice shady spot near the Old Colony House(above), or Old State House. Built in 1741 it is one of the best kept public buildings from the Colonial-era. George Washington and Dwight Eisenhower have been guests there and it now acts as a museum and part of the larger National Historic Landmark that the center of Newport is. In the midst of Eisenhower Park stands a statue of Oliver Perry, a hero during the War of 1812 who led a decisive American Naval victory over the British at Lake Erie.

After enjoying the sites in and around Washington Square for a bit I began to tour the nearby streets. Each and every home it seemed had a plaque with a name and year adorning it; never before have I seen so many historical homes, one after another. I was amazed by the Wanton-Lyman-Hazard House(left) sitting just off of Washington Square on the corner of Broadway and Stone Street. It amazed me because of the fact that it was built in 1697 making it the oldest surviving house in Newport and one of the oldest in the entire state of Rhode Island. So old is this house that it was damaged during the riots after the imposing of the Stamp Act of 1765 which was a result of yet another unfair British tax on the colonies. It is open for tours during June, July, and August and is a fascinating spot even if just passing by it.

The influx of wealthy people into Newport in the late-19th and early-20th centuries is not exclusive to the mansion area of Bellevue Avenue. Another example in the center of Newport is Vanderbilt Hall which is a mansion and hotel built in 1909 by Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt and dedicated to his father, Cornelius Vanderbilt. The Vanderbilt family came to prominence during the mid-1800’s when Cornelius oversaw the building of railroad and shipping empires. Cornelius Vanderbilt, when his fortune is adjusted for inflation into current times, had a net worth of somewhere between $143-178 billion. His mansion, The Breakers, will be covered in the second Newport article.

After walking along Clarke Street and Spring Street the next destination was a much simpler spot: Touro Park. The park sits between Pelham and Mill Street and is known for a spectacular piece of architecture known as the Old Stone Mill(right). Built in 1660, and similar in appearance to Dennis, Massachusetts’ Scargo Tower, this landmark’s exact historic lineage is unknown. Two popular theories have it either being built by the grandfather of the nefarious Revolutionary War traitor, Benedict Arnold, or that it was built by early Viking visitors. However, an archaeological investigation in 1948-49 could not date any of the artifacts it studied earlier than the 17th Century. Origin aside this
structure is a stand alone site, the oldest building in Newport and pretty much a one of a kind.

The final place I visited in Newport was Fort Adams. Located across Newport Harbor with a breathtaking view of the Newport Bridge and Rose Island Lighthouse, Fort Adams(below) is still open to the public and the entire area is a State Park.

Originally built in the 1820’s this is the largest coastal fort in the United States. It has spectacular views from every side; it was magnified when I was there near sunset. It actually became a little spooky looking in through the gates that covered each entrance as the light became dim.

The Fort Adams State Park sits on land that was at one time owned by William Brenton who was governor of the Rhode Island colony from 1666-69. He called the land Hammersmith after the town in England where his family came from. In the warmer months the open grassy areas host the Newport Jazz Festival and Folk Festival. It was a great way to end a great trip to an amazing town. Newport is much more than just the storied mansions, it is rows and rows of historical homes. It is also a mysterious stone mill and a beautiful if not spooky old fort. When you have seen all of the mansions in Newport make time to view these other attractions, it adds another dimension to any Newport trip. Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Touro Park: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Slight left at Spring Street, turn left onto Mill St. Park is on the right.

Fort Adams State Park: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Left at Thames Street, left at America’s Cup Ave. Right onto Thames Street, right onto Wellington Ave., right at Harrison Ave., turn left to stay on Harrison, turn right to stay on Harrison. Turn right at Ft. Adams Dr., follow it to fort parking lot.

Historical Center of Town/Washington Square: Take I-195, exit 8A for Rt. 24, continue onto Rt. 114. Continue onto Rt. 138, continue onto Broadway. Continue onto Washington Square, there is street parking and off-street lots. Historic homes and buildings are in all directions.


References: Go Newport.com
            Newport Historical Society
            Fort Adams.org
            Newport Restoration.org