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Showing posts with label yarmouth port. Show all posts
Showing posts with label yarmouth port. Show all posts

Thursday, July 9, 2026

A Forgotten Story From A Favorite Place



It’s amazing, as you get older, the number of memories that grow fuzzier or get lost to time altogether. It’s a big reason why I have chosen over the years to write various journals as well as blogs like this. I want to hold on to as many stories from my life, even if they end up being only in written or typed form.

That is the setup for this story here. It is one that I had totally forgotten about for many years. I wish I could tell you what brought it back to mind, but I can’t. It’s like one minute there was a dark room, and suddenly the light switch turned on and revealed the full contents therein.

This is a story where I was hailed as a hero. Despite that, I don’t think I talked about it much at the time. Bear with me, as even though I remember the majority of this story, there are still details that remain locked away in the past.



Bass Hole, or Gray’s Beach as it’s known to those not familiar with Cape Cod, has been my favorite place for a long time. My visits there number in the several hundreds over my life. It is a small beach in the town of Yarmouth Port.

For those wondering why it is called ‘Bass Hole’ by the locals, I will open the pages of my copy of the book Names of the Land. It was written by Eugene Green and William Sachse in 1983. Actually, it was my Nana’s book, but that’s beside the point. In the early 17th century, the Colonists marveled at the number of striped bass that were drawn to the deep creek mouth, aka the ‘hole.’

The Bass Hole grounds include a grassy area with a pavilion, grills, and a playground. Nature trails lead you to overlooks of a marsh and nearby Chapin Beach in the town of Dennis.

The major attraction at Bass Hole is a several-hundred-foot-long boardwalk that extends out over the marsh. It is the type of place where people flock to in the hopes of capturing the perfect sunset photo.

I visited regularly growing up. Once I was in high school and able to go out on my own with friends, it became a haven for most of our activities. John and Barry, two of my oldest and dearest friends, were my partners in crime.

We were never into doing things like underage drinking and all-night partying. We enjoyed grabbing some snacks and hanging out in the parking lot at Bass Hole after dark. Either we’d get tired, or we’d start seeing police cars on patrol, and that would cause us to call it a night. Those wacky chats, either in the dark or under the dome light of a car, are some of my favorite memories of growing up.

The pavilion and playground at Bass Hole.


After we all graduated from high school, John and Barry left for college and moved away to start the next chapters of their lives. When they returned, we would make it a point to visit Bass Hole together for old times' sake.

Still living on Cape Cod, I frequented my favorite spot for a sense of normalcy as I began delving into what I learned was a Quarter-Life Crisis in my early 20s.

I went by myself and sat in the parking lot. Typically, I’d bring lunch or dinner, something fast food to pair with my super healthy lifestyle at the time. Then I’d wander the grounds as if I were searching for a part of me that I’d never find again. Bass Hole was my happy place, whether alone or with others.

For this particular story, I believe we go back to 2003. I was living with my family in a small place in Dennis Port. It was early fall, probably October. I was wearing jeans and a long-sleeved shirt that was more like thermal underwear. I know that’s hard to picture. I got it from Old Navy. It was off-white. I am describing it in depth because it’s important to the story.

It was later in the afternoon on this day that I visited Bass Hole. I had something for dinner. Because it was 2003, I’d guess McDonald’s. When I finished, I threw my trash away and went for a walk.

When I am there, I typically don’t pay much attention to the goings-on in the parking lot. It’s a public place and a beloved place, but for me, the fewer cars, the better. For this October afternoon, there might have been a handful of other vehicles there at most, and I hadn’t noticed any other people.

The walks I’d take tended to last anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes. For as many nice things as there are to see at Bass Hole, it is, in general, a small area. I walked the nature trails and got lost in thought for a spell.

Upon returning from the woods, I crossed the grassy area, passed the playground, and stepped onto the asphalt parking lot. My car was straight ahead, and my mind probably drifted to what mundane tasks I’d be having to do at work the next morning. Then I heard it.

The eastern side of the square parking lot is bordered by reeds, thorns, and various other bushes. From among them, I heard a weak voice.

“Help!”

I stopped and looked over but didn’t see anything. Was it in my mind?

“Please help me!”

This was not my imagination. I might have been thirty feet from the end of the asphalt. Slowly, I walked toward where the frail voice had been coming from. Only when I got within a few feet did I find the source.

Lying on her side, three or four feet back from the pavement, was a woman. She had to have been in her early to mid 70s. Apparently, she had crossed into the overgrowth looking for something. I can’t remember exactly now, but I thought she had said something about berries.

The various branches and thorns had gotten hold of her legs and tripped her up. Once down among them, she struggled to escape, but in the process, she was tangled up even worse.

My only experience with that particular section of Bass Hole had come years earlier. John, Barry, and I had purchased a cheap kite. I believe it was some sort of bird emblazoned on it; we called it our ‘falcon kite.’

We likely had a kite similar to one of these



As we flew it poorly, it ended up crashing into those reeds and thorns. We knew it was more trouble than it was worth to try to maneuver through even a few feet of heavy overgrowth to retrieve a kite that cost us a few dollars. We left it in there. Who knows how long it took until it had disintegrated? Now, there was a person stuck in those same thorns and brush.

I didn’t think twice. I stepped into the thorns, trying to push the branches down with my sneakers, and grabbed hold of her. I lifted her gently but with enough force to detach the thorns from around her legs. I felt some of them release their grip on her, and on me as well. Once I had her up on her feet, I saw how badly things had been.

Her hands and arms were sliced up and bleeding pretty badly. It looked like she had been struggling for at least a few minutes. That long-sleeved shirt I was wearing was now covered in her blood. It was all surreal.

I guided her out of the brush and onto the pavement. By this time, a few people had rushed over. The woman was grateful but visibly shaking. I believe she had fallen in the brush within minutes of my walking off to the nature trails.

The people who came over only did so because they saw the two of us walking out of the brush with me holding the woman up. It could have been possible that if I hadn’t been there, she wouldn’t have been seen or heard for a while. She could have possibly even been there into the night.

The woman thanked me profusely. One of the people who came over to help called me a hero. I guess I was a little shaken, and maybe a little oblivious to the seriousness of the situation. It was that same person who painted the picture of what could have happened to the woman if I hadn’t been there. Then it sank in.

In what must have seemed like a scene out of a superhero movie, I waited until I knew that rescue had been called for the woman and then quietly took my leave. It was a true Irish goodbye.

I find it interesting that when presented with the chance to soak in the adulation of people for saving a helpless woman, I chose to slip away. Nobody there ever got my name, not even the woman I helped. I was gone so quickly out of the parking lot that I didn’t even pass the ambulance that had been called.

Sunset was closing in as I got home. I parked in the driveway and sat in my cranberry red Saturn. Ironically, my white shirt now matched my car’s paint job.

I looked down at the dried blood and still couldn’t fathom what had happened on what was just another visit to Bass Hole. I had helped someone in need, a total stranger, without thinking twice. I knew that was the right thing to do.

I walked inside. My mother was in the kitchen with her back to me. I remember walking up to her, and when she turned around, the absolute shock and horror at what she saw.

Imagine the scene of your son walking into the house covered in someone else’s blood. It’s like the beginning of so many true crime dramas that you see on television. Lucky for me, I was never a troublemaker, so my explanation was believed.

It made me so glad that John and Barry and I had been (relatively) good kids growing up. If I had been a problem child, it would have been different. Do you think my mother would have believed the story that you just read? Especially considering that I chose anonymity? Nobody had my name, so where would the proof have been? She’d have probably sneaked into her bedroom and called 911.

Although I liked that shirt, I didn’t even bother trying to wash it. It was wrapped in a plastic bag and thrown into the trash. Boy, that makes it sound even more like I was covering up a murder. I did, however, buy a replacement for it.

Me wearing the replacement shirt, fittingly at Bass Hole in 2004.


Looking back, I wish I had gotten the name of the woman I helped. Or at least maybe stuck around until rescue got there. I had done the most important part, though, by helping her. I didn’t need the pat on the back.

What’s interesting is that this was in the days before social media. I think I had only recently gotten a cell phone at the time. If I had social media, would I have shared my experience? Probably.

I could have seen myself sitting in my car explaining what had happened. Of course, if I were wearing my blood-soaked shirt, the video would have been pulled, and the authorities would have probably been called on me. So all things considered, it was probably for the best that Facebook and Myspace didn’t exist then.

That’s the story of probably my most interesting trip to Bass Hole. The time that I happened to be there to help someone in their time of need. It was pure luck and nothing I sought out. It did make me feel good about myself as a person, though.

It makes me think of how many situations happen or don’t happen due to a matter of seconds and inches. If I had gone to Bass Hole a little earlier, what would have happened to that lady? I’d like to think somebody else would have heard her cries for help, but you never know.

I have been in situations where I could use a hand. It’s never been as bad as being trapped among thorns and bleeding heavily, though. I’d like to think that if I were in need, there would be a good Samaritan there to help me out. I will never lose that faith in humanity.

I have returned to Bass Hole countless times in the years since. There has never been such an event again. I will say I did get to see some incredible Aurora Borealis there in 2024, which was very fitting.

Aurora Borealis at Bass Hole


I hope that the woman I helped never lost her sense of wonder and adventure that caused her to climb in among the thorns, trying to find whatever she was looking for. I never saw her again and probably wouldn’t have recognized her if I had.

She and I were in each other's lives for all of 15 minutes, but I’d like to think that we each left a positive mark on the other. I gave her a helping hand, and she revealed a part of me that I am proud of.


Friday, January 14, 2022

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - The Buried Treasure of Mabel Simpkins-Agassiz


    The name Mabel Simpkins-Agassiz might not ring a bell to many currently residing on Cape Cod. Her name does carry a lot of weight today especially in Yarmouth. First and foremost the sandy beach at Dennis Pond on Summer Street once was owned by Mabel. It was part of the Sandyside estate that the Simpkins family called home for generations. As she aged Mabel leased the beach to the town for use by ‘the children of Yarmouth.'

    Mabel Simpkins was the sister of John Simpkins. He was a U.S. Representative from Massachusetts from 1890-1891. Perhaps more notably for locals is the school that bore his name for decades. Now senior apartments, not very long ago the stoic brick building on Yarmouth’s Old Main Street was known as John Simpkins Elementary School.

    In addition to the beach at Dennis Pond, Mabel Simpkins made several generous donations to the town. These included the John Simpkins wing of the Yarmouth Port Library as well as creating the Cape Cod Library Club. Despite these contributions to her home town and despite her well known local family there is one thing Mabel might be known for above all else. It is a story of the treasure she buried on her Sandyside property nearly a century ago.

    The saga of Mabel Simpkins’ buried treasure started with her marriage to George Agassiz in June 1902. Agassiz himself was part of a famed family also. George was an astronomer and zoologist and Harvard graduate. His father Alexander was a scientist and engineer. While his grandfather Louis was an important biologist and geologist.

    The newlyweds took their honeymoon to Europe, specifically Italy. It was there that they visited a relatively new automobile company known as Fabbrica Italiana Automobili Torino or FIAT. George and Mabel purchased a brand new 1904 FIAT 24/32HP. These expensive luxury vehicles were made from 1903-1905 and had top speeds in excess of 75km/h(46mph).

An advertisement for the 1904 FIAT 24/32HP


    The auto was built fresh, listed as Chassis No.745 shipped to America in June 1904. In total the vehicle cost the couple $9,000($279,000 in 2021). Once on Cape Cod it became only the second vehicle registered in Yarmouth. Overall at the time there were a measly sixteen vehicles registered on the entire Cape. Mabel and her brother Charles Simpkins did the majority of the driving of the vehicle taking it on trips all over Cape Cod. For twenty-seven years Mabel and Charles enjoyed innumerable cruises around Cape Cod in the FIAT 24/32HP.

Portrait of Mabel Simpkins-Agassiz from 1917(Frick Digital Collections)


    Charles died suddenly of a heart attack in June 1931 at the age of sixty-four. Mabel was devastated. She had a deep emotional connection to the automobile and tried desperately to find a buyer. However the vehicle was nearing three decades in service and it was not seen as a worthwhile investment. Rather than simply cut bait with such a special piece of machinery Mabel had a far different, and far more unique idea.

    Much like a beloved member of the family the FIAT was given a proper burial on the property of Sandyside in 1932. For many years the FIAT remained underground, out of sight but not out of mind. In fact the rumor and legend of the buried car in Yarmouth Port grew. The rumor and legend made it to the ears of Boston resident Ted Robertson in 1942.

    Robertson contacted Mabel and asked for permission to ‘exhume’ the FIAT. She agreed and Robertson purchased the vehicle sight-unseen for $50($848 in 2021). When Robertson and his crew dug up the vehicle he was amazed at its condition. The FIAT had been buried upside-down, with its seats removed, and with its wheels on top of it like arms folded across the chest of a body.

    Remarkably despite it being in well-worn condition the FIAT was sold in between several different collectors over the proceeding decades. Robertson went on to found the Sports Car Club of America in 1944. David Uihlein from Milwaukee bought it for $500($5,200 in 2021) in 1952 and kept it stored for forty years. Restorations on the vehicle did not take place until the early 1990’s. The FIAT was returned to its former glory despite being nearly a century old including ten of those years being spent underground. In 2007 Jan Bruijn of the Netherlands bought it. He held on to it until 2018 when it was sold at auction through Bonhams for $808,000.

Mabel Simpkins-Agassiz's famed FIAT when owned by Jan Bruijn(Style-e-Auto.com)


    After the FIAT was exhumed and sold off Mabel and George continued to live at Sandyside in Yarmouth Port. George Agassiz died in February 1951 at the age of 89. In memorial Harvard University named their observatory at Oak Ridge in Harvard, Massachusetts after George. After his death Mabel moved to Dedham, Massachusetts where she lived out her remaining years. She died in March 1961 at the age of 91.

    Despite the story of the buried FIAT on her property might spring to mind first when thinking of Mabel Simpkins-Agassiz it is far from her most important contributions to Cape Cod. She was a hugely giving benefactor to her hometown of Yarmouth. From Dennis Pond to the Bass River Road and Gun Club, Yarmouth Port Library to John Simpkins Elementary School, her fingerprints were and still are apparent all over Yarmouth.

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Thursday, March 26, 2020

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - The Christmas Tree Shop




     Several generations of Cape Codders and those who flock there to visit know of the unique holiday-themed series of local stores known as the Christmas Tree Shop. The stores that became a beloved staple of many a weekend morning of running errands. Its roots are all Cape Cod yet over time it expanded and grew so large that it could no longer be considered a ‘mom and pop’ operation. From humble beginnings to a branch on a larger corporation’s tree, this is the story of a Cape Cod treasure.

     What became known as Christmas Tree Shop began as an idea of Charles and Alyce Matthews of Yarmouth Port. In July 1946 33-year-old Charles and 37-year-old Alyce came to the Cape from New York. They purchased a home and a small store at the corner of Willow Street and Route 6A in Yarmouth Port that had previously been a grocery store owned by Harry Davidson. Charles was a 12th generation Cape Codder. His father Albert Matthews, though born in Buffalo, New York, was a direct descendant of the Matthews family that had first come to Cape Cod in 1638. He had kept a summer home in Barnstable.

A postcard of The Christmas Shop
(Sturgis Library)

     After some minor improvements to the shop, including painting both the interior and exterior and adding dark green blinds, it was opened in time for the 1947 summer season and known as the Old Corner Shop. The building was made up originally of two smaller shops, Wayside Shop run by Katherine Gourley of Melrose, and Lavinia’s Window run by Gladys Beasley of Falmouth, both were considered antique shops. The property was more of a compound known collectively as ‘Old Corner.’ There was also the Old Corner Guest House and another small building formerly used for laundry service. The laundry service building was purchased in the summer of 1947 and removed from the property.

     In November 1949 Charles and Alyce Matthews took over the Wayside Shop side of the Old Corner Shop and renamed the store the Christmas Shop. Charles used woodworking talents to repair antiques while Alyce’s training in the arts allowed her to create greeting cards, silver jewelry, and ceramics. Their contributions were soon joined by other local artists works making the store a hit right off the bat.

     In February 1952 another land purchase would change the store’s trajectory. Charles and Alyce bought a neighboring parcel of land containing a barn that they wished to use as part of an expansion of the Christmas Shop. The following month the Christmas Shop officially became known as Christmas Tree Shop running out of the barn with the additional land being used for a parking lot.

After becoming Christmas Tree Shop
(Sturgis Library)

     The larger store allowed the Matthews to expand their inventory to more than 200,000 items. Visitors came from all over the country, Europe and Australia to browse and buy to the tune of more than 75,000 per year by 1955. Alyce Matthews became a leading business woman on Cape Cod, becoming president of the Cape Cod Business and Professional Women’s Club. In 1956 the Christmas Tree Shop’s success allowed the business to remain open year-round, they had been closing for three months after Christmas until then. Its unique appearance inside the barn also made it one of the most photographed businesses on Cape Cod as well.

     Though the Christmas Tree Shop was a success there were troubles ahead. 14-hour days began to weigh on Charles and Alyce. This, coupled with strict Sunday business laws, began to eat away at profits. Business slowed in 1959 and 1960 to the point where involuntary bankruptcy was filed against the couple in June 1961. The property was taken and purchased by Donald Winner of Lawrence in September 1961. Charles and Alyce Matthews were no longer involved in their beloved creation.

     The 1960’s were a time of varying success yet were relatively uneventful for the Christmas Tree Shop. It was only opened during the summer and continued to not be open on Sundays. It was not seen as a hugely promising venture when it was bought by Charles Bilezikian of Newton in 1970. The 33-year old Bilezikian along with his wife Doreen bought the Christmas Tree Shop and began by adding an ‘s’ to Shop. It was hardly the only change. 

     Bilezikian worked endlessly to take the business beyond its original location. Within a few years new locations had opened in West Yarmouth and West Dennis. In November 1975 Bilezikian bought four railroad cars formerly owned by the bankrupt New Haven line and placed them on property he owned along the tracks near downtown Hyannis. This became the backbone of the new Christmas Tree Shops location, part of Christmas Crossing, which opened in mid-1977.


The Sagamore Bridge location.
(Weight Loss Seniors.com)
     Bilezikian’s hard work resulted in the purchase of another Cape Cod icon, the Cape Cod Coliseum in May 1984. It would be used to house the Christmas Tree Shops executive offices and warehouse space. This was followed shortly thereafter by a new store at the foot of the Sagamore Bridge complete with the world’s largest thatched roof. More stores followed throughout the 1980’s
including the Christmas Tree Plaza on Rt. 132 as Christmas Tree Shops became a New England and northeast staple for home decor, gift-ware, housewares, food, paper goods, and seasonal products.


Charles and Doreen had overseen the enormous growth of the former seasonal gift shop into a regional powerhouse. It outgrew its original location, and outgrew its warehouse in the former Cape Cod Coliseum. Despite the success they wanted to ensure its existence was safe for years to come. At the turn of the 21st century they made a tough decision to sell.

     In June 2003 the entirety of Christmas Tree Shops, including all 23 stores in 6 states at the time, was purchased by Bed Bath & Beyond Inc. for $200 million. It was a lucrative purchase for the company as in 2002 Christmas Tree Shop’s net sales were in excess of $370 million. Charles and Doreen did stay on with the company keeping some sense of symmetry.

     Today the Christmas Tree Shops business has expanded far beyond the New England borders. In 2013 the franchise created the 'andThat!' branch of the stores for use in non-regional markets. For places unfamiliar with the legacy of Christmas Tree Shops over the previous four decades like Wisconsin, Delaware, Virginia, Michigan, Georgia, and Florida it was a new take on an old staple.

Christmas Tree Shops logo
(Simon.com)


     From a small corner lot on Willow Street and Route 6A (today the Fresh Picked gift shop) to more than 70 stores in 21 states the original vision of Charles and Alyce Matthews grew to the most well known gift shop on the Cape and then New England thanks to Charles and Doreen Bilezikian. For Cape Codders though the Christmas Tree Shops legacy is far simpler as a place that has always been a go-to for what you needed at the price you wanted.


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My 5th book, Cape Cod Nights, is on sale at Amazon.com and through Arcadia Publishing


View my previous blog posts: In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Cape Cod Bank and Trust

                              
Cape Cod Sunsets 2020 Calendar available at Zazzle here: Cape Cod Living Store

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com





Friday, November 8, 2019

Photo Friday: Sunset at Bass Hole

Welcome to Photo Friday!

Today features a colorful sunset at the boardwalk of Bass Hole in Yarmouth Port, Massachusetts.



This photo is for sale at Smug Mug here: Cape Cod Sunsets and Sunrises

I also have a Cape Cod Sunsets 2020 Calendar available at Zazzle here: Cape Cod Sunsets 2020

View my previous blog posts: In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Angelo's Supermarket

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Jane Toppan's Poisoning Murders
                                             

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com


My 5th book, Cape Cod Nights, is on sale at Amazon.com and through Arcadia Publishing

Monday, April 26, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 43: Yarmouthport, Mass. - Part Two


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund

Trip 43: Yarmouthport, Mass. – Part Two
April 15, 2010

            Nothing beats Route 6A in the spring.  The warm, sweet smelling air coupled with the blooming trees and flowers gives every site the appearance of a painting or postcard.  I decided to venture back over to Yarmouthport to check out some places missed during my first article.  I also wanted to find out just how people spell Yarmouthport.  Is it with the space, or without?  According to the highway signs near Exit 7 it is without the space, so I am going with that way until further notice.
            It was a pleasant change to be able to take a stroll along the historic sidewalks of 6A in Yarmouthport while it was sunny and warm.  Most of my other trips had taken place during the dead of winter so I really appreciated this day.  There are plenty of great places to park to get out and walk along 6A, I chose the small parking area of the Kelly Chapel, located behind the Post Office.  I walked east a little ways, deciding to start from the First Congregational Church of Yarmouth(left) and work my way back. 
            The First Congregational Church, which sits on Zion Hill overlooking the Yarmouthport Village Store, was first gathered in 1639 coinciding with the town’s founding.  The current church was built in 1870 due to the increasing need for a larger building to house all of the worshipers in the town.  It has a majestic quality to it, especially after dark when the face of the church is lit up by a large spotlight.  It is the prefect start to a spring stroll. 
            As you walk along this area of Rt. 6A it is important to keep your eyes open for black and gold plaques featuring a sailing ship.  It is along this stretch of road that there are fifty-three such plaques; these make up the ‘Yarmouth Captain’s Mile.’  It is amazing when you do spot all of the plaques adorning the fronts of homes, to realize that so many sea captains once lived in such close proximity during the 18th and 19th centuries. 
One such house that intrigued me was the Captain Thomas Ryder House located next to the Yarmouthport Library.  The home itself is beautiful, sitting on a modest hill with a large wraparound front porch.  It was after I had snapped a few shots up close that I noticed something odd.  On the three steps leading from the walkway to the street there were words.  The words read ‘The Hillock.’(right)  I do not know what this meant, or how many people that pass by the steps ever notice them, but it makes for a neat mystery that I am trying to figure out.
            Located across from the post office is the Winslow-Crocker House(left).  Originally built in 1780 this house is a great place to check out just because of the story of how it got to where it currently stands.  The house sat in West Barnstable but was bought and moved by Mary Thacher in 1936; she subsequently used the house to showcase her collection of colonial furniture, hooked rugs, ceramics, and other antiques.  Set back from the road the house has a spacious yard, it can make you feel as though you are looking at this house when it was originally built despite the fact that it is not its original location.  The Winslow-Crocker House is available for tours and operates as a museum where many of Mary Thacher’s antiques are still on display.
            Normally I would not consider a bookstore to be an historic spot that needed to be visited.  When it is the Parnassus Bookstore(left), a Cape Cod landmark, an exception can be made.  Located just before the curve that forks off toward Dennis Pond the Parnassus Bookstore has been a part of Yarmouthport for nearly 200 years.  Before it was a bookstore the building housed Knowles General Store.  Inside you will find shelves of old and rare books, many of which have to do with Olde Cape Cod.  Outside there are more shelves of books underneath an awning, I found it a bit odd to have books located outside of the building itself but I believe that it only adds to the charm of this spot.  Even if you are not a lifelong Cape Codder I recommend taking some time to look through the rare books and discover a lot of what made the Cape what it is today.
            After taking this stroll along Rt. 6A the only spot to end it is at the Hallet’s Store(right).  Established in 1889 by Thatcher Taylor Hallet this Cape institution was originally a pharmacy complete with soda fountain and lunch counter.  Now owned by the great-great grandson of Thatcher, Hallet’s is still serving ice cream and sodas as well as doubling as a museum.  The 121-year-old shop still has all of its original fixtures inside; the fact that they still serve sandwiches, ice cream, and sodas as well makes you feel as though you just sat down in the late 19th century.  The dedication to retaining that authenticity is what makes Hallet’s special.  It is open from April through November.     
            Whether you choose to spell it Yarmouthport or Yarmouth Port there is one thing that can be agreed on, a trip down the amazing Route 6A in the spring is something that locals and far off visitors alike will enjoy.  I make this drive a few times per week and still marvel at the fact that so much history sits so close to me.  So visit the Winslow-Crocker house, read a few passages at Parnassus, grab some ice cream at Hallet’s, and if anybody knows what ‘The Hillock’ means on the steps in front of the Thomas Ryder House please let me know.  Have fun and happy traveling!
Directions:  From Rt. 6, take Exit 8 and head north on Union Street.  Turn left on Rt. 6A and follow it for about ¾ mi., it is up to you where to park and start to enjoy the sites along 6A.
References:  Parnassus Books
            Yarmouth Historical Society
            Edward Gorey House.org
            Hallets Store

Monday, January 25, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 9: Yarmouth Port, Mass.

In My Footsteps


Christopher Setterlund

Trip 9: Yarmouth Port, Mass.

January 23, 2010

Being the most historic roadway on Cape Cod Route 6A is chock full of places to see. So many in fact that all of the places in this article sit within a mile or so of one another, on a warmer day they would make up a tremendous walk.

Our trip begins at Gray’s Beach, known to most locals as Bass Hole. Located off of 6A on Center Street, Bass Hole is a free public beach nestled up against a narrow cove overlooking Cape Cod Bay Bass Hole. Any trip here would have to start with the 800-foot long boardwalk(right) that stretches its way out into the neighboring marsh and gives a wonderful view of the bay as well as Chapin Beach which acts as a barrier for Bass Hole from the harsh ocean waves. The beach area is great for swimming as it is calm; there are visible sandbars at low tide. There is a large open filed and a newly revamped playground area in addition to a covered picnic area which can be reserved for large parties if so desired.

Across the field and playground there are trails to be walked that take you through the woods surrounding Bass Hole and across a marsh which, thanks to a recently built walking bridge, gives a great panoramic view of the area. The trails lead through the woods and across Center Street where they come out on the other side of the marsh.

Center Street can be taken back out to Route 6A; a right turn will take you to the next spot. About a half a mile down the road sits two historic spots in the same parking lot. Getting in is a tricky proposition as the road immediately follows the Post Office on the left. In summer this one is easy to miss. Park in the small lot and decide which way to go first.


Going straight back behind the Tufts Gatehouse along a rocky path you will find the Kelly Chapel(left). Built in 1873 by David Kelly this small church is secluded from the road, although it can be accessed via a path from the Old Yarmouth Inn restaurant next door. It is not routinely open but many weddings take place there; it is still a big part of life in this small village.

Located off to the left of the chapel are a set of trails which cover the nearly fifty acres of land the chapel stands watch over. More than a hundred years ago this area was Cape Cod’s first golf course built by the Thacher family in the 1890’s for private use. The trails lead through the natural beauty of the Cape and eventually will lead you to Miller’s Pond and Dennis Pond. Dennis Pond is located on Summer Street and is a recreation area; it is a very short drive from the chapel grounds.


From the small parking lot near the Tufts Gatehouse a left turn will take you up a sloping driveway to another piece of Cape Cod history. The Captain Bangs Hallet House(left) gives you a great view of life on the Cape more than 200 years ago. Built in 1840, and named for an illustrious 19th century fisherman, it is the only historic house that is regularly open to visitors. Tours of the house take place often during the summer and fall but the grounds are always able to be walked. Located behind the Bangs Hallet House is a natural wonder, a century-plus old English Weeping Beech tree. In the warmer months this giant’s limbs, covered in broad, flat leaves, reach to the ground. You may step inside this awesome piece of nature; it feels like being under an umbrella.


The last stop on the trip around Route 6A in Yarmouth Port starts with a left turn out of the Kelly Chapel parking lot. Less than a mile away, following a trip through the historic ‘center’ of Yarmouth Port on 6A you will come to Mill Lane on the right. It sits on a curve so approach slowly. The Keveney Lane Bridge crosses over Hallets Mill Pond(right) and the subsequent river that empties out into Cape Cod Bay. This bridge is unique in the fact that is a narrow one-lane bridge. There are very few spots to park on Mill Lane leading up to the bridge so a stop to walk might be out of the question in the warmer months. Still, taking a slow drive across the bridge might be enough to soak in the scenery.

When not stopping to take in these sights a trip through Yarmouth Port may take a few minutes, but you could easily spend all day visiting the places mentioned above. There are other spots nearby that have not been mentioned including the 140-year old First Congregational Church which stands up on a hill looking over the village. This is just a guide as there are many places maybe I have missed, but any of these places are well worth the drive or walk. Along 6A it seems that all you have to do is turn around and you are face to face with another piece of Cape Cod and American history. Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Bass Hole: From Mid-Cape Highway take Exit 8. Follow Union Street north until you reach Rt. 6A. Cross Rt. 6A to Old Church Street. Bear right onto Center Street and follow it to the beach.

Kelly Chapel & Captain Bangs Hallet House: Follow Center Street to Rt. 6A, turn right. Travel about ½ mi., the turn for the chapel is left immediately following the Post Office.

Dennis Pond: Leaving the chapel turn left on Rt. 6A; bear left onto Summer Street at curve. Dennis Pond is on right.

Keveney Lane Bridge: Exiting Summer Street turn left onto Rt. 6A. Mill Lane is a right turn on a curve diagonally across from Willow Street. Follow Mill Lane until you reach the bridge, there is a spot for one car on the right as you approach the bridge.

References: Yarmouth Historical Society