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Showing posts with label camping. Show all posts
Showing posts with label camping. Show all posts

Thursday, October 16, 2025

Washburn Island and World War II - Cape Cod History




Despite Cape Cod being a relatively small location (approximately 339 square miles), some places are far less traveled. Most of these locations come in the form of small islands located in and around the peninsula.

A few examples include Strong Island in Chatham, which is 75 acres and consists primarily of marshland. There is Sipson Island, which is 25 acres and has been privately owned for over three centuries. Sampsons Island in Cotuit is a 15-acre nature preserve. Bassetts Island in Pocasset is 60 acres of beaches and upland forest. There is even more to be explored, but none has the wealth of history and the air of mystery that exists on Washburn Island.

Washburn Island is approximately 330 acres in size and sits inside Waquoit Bay off East Falmouth. Today it’s a largely undeveloped, pine-and-oak–covered island with a popular primitive campsite and a handful of sandy beaches. That calm surface hides a layered past: Indigenous seasonal use, 19th-century farms and Gilded-Age summer estates, and dramatic storms. Perhaps most intriguing is the island’s surprising role in World War II amphibious training.



Long before European colonists arrived, the island was used seasonally by Native Americans. They referred to the island as Menauhaunt. Archaeological finds like shell middens, stone flakes, and other artifacts show human activity in and around Waquoit Bay and Washburn Island for many centuries. Through the 1700s and 1800s, the island was intermittently used for grazing livestock and small farms. In the 19th century, three farms existed on the island, two of which were gone by the end of the century. By that point, the future Washburn Island had attracted private owners.

In 1900, Henry A. Bryant, whose family had opened the Pacific Northwest to the shipping trade, acquired the property. On it, he had built a large three-story summer house overlooking Waquoit Bay and Vineyard Sound. For a time, a hand ferry connected the island to the mainland with a landing on the Seapit River at present-day Ferry Road.

Henry Bryant died suddenly on January 6, 1904, at the young age of forty-six. The estate on the island was left to his widow, Alida. She held on to the property until 1912, when it was sold to a group of bankers and corporate investors. This included the former U.S. Ambassador to Austria, Albert Washburn.

Albert Washburn c. 1920(Library of Congress)


At first, the purchase was only for the former Bryant estate, with the rest planned to be sold in parcels for development. Those plans fell through, and Albert Washburn and his wife, Florence, bought the rest of the island for their own private use.

The Washburns erected a wondrous compound. In addition to moving into the Bryant estate, the Washburns constructed a stable, a barn, a boathouse, a pier, and a narrow bridged causeway. The family name is what the island is usually called today.

The bridge to Washburn Island looking west toward the mainland.(Falmouth Historical Society)


The main house burned to the ground on October 26, 1926, thanks to a fire starting inside a defective chimney. The soft sand near the bridged causeway severely affected the arrival time of firefighters. By the time the blaze had been quelled, all that remained were the servants' quarters. The barn and most of the farm remained intact. A modest farmhouse was built to give the Washburns a place to live during their summers on the island.

Albert Washburn died suddenly of food poisoning in Vienna in April 1930, leaving the island in a state of flux. The estate never fully recovered, and the property shifted toward recreational use after that period. This was mostly because while the island was still owned by Florence Washburn, she never marked the property or imposed any restrictions on visitors.

Florence and the rest of her family began spending less and less time on the island in the early 1930s. It became a haven for those using the island for picnicking and recreation. Unfortunately, some took advantage of this generosity by looting the farmhouse and vandalizing parts of the island.

A massive hurricane in 1938 dramatically changed the island's appearance. It washed away the causeway and bridge. This left Florence Washburn with no easy access to the island where the farmhouse remained. The storm surge also ripped a channel open in the area that was 125 feet wide and seven feet deep. For the first time in decades, Washburn Island truly was an island.

Washburn Island’s most dramatic chapter came along with World War II. Florence Washburn, who had been living exclusively in Hanover, New Hampshire, said in June 1942 that she wanted to rebuild her beloved island that had been severely damaged by vandals. However, she couldn’t get the assurances needed to protect her property rights.

A perfect storm came up as the U.S. military rapidly expanded amphibious training in the early 1940s. Needing coastal areas to prepare troops for beach landings in both the European and Pacific areas, the military looked to Washburn Island. With Florence unable to rebuild the island the way she wanted, she instead leased several tracts of land to the federal government.

The Army’s amphibious units (Engineer Boat and Shore Regiments and associated training commands operating out of Camp Edwards and nearby facilities) used the island for landing exercises. To create a proper base, there was the construction of a crisscross of several temporary roads and five finger-like piers that stretched nearly 900 feet out into the water. Washburn Island also saw drill fields, parade grounds, and an obstacle course. Once completed, the island served as a training ground for two years.

Despite wishing for the operations at Washburn to be secret, it was easy for locals to spot what was going on. It became commonplace to spot barges landing on the beach and soldiers wading through the water in full gear with rifles held overhead. After the war ended, Cape Codders proudly referred to Washburn Island as the ‘Cradle of Invasions,’ and the troops as ‘Cape Cod Commandos.’

Perhaps the wildest scene during these operations was the full-scale mock invasion the troops performed on Martha’s Vineyard. This included traversing the rough seas of Vineyard Sound and landing at designated sites at Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs on the north side of the island, more than five miles away.

A World War II amphibious vehicle, the DUKW.


For training purposes, the island was temporarily reconnected to the mainland via a sand causeway and wooden drawbridge that began at Ovington Point. Temporary structures were also built to support the effort. Contemporary accounts and later histories emphasize Washburn Island’s role as one of the local training beaches where soldiers practiced the skills, including small-craft landings, that would be vital in Normandy, the Mediterranean, and Pacific operations.

Washburn Island’s importance began to dwindle in 1943 due to harsh weather. The majority of the program was moved south to Carrabelle, Florida. Another major hurricane roared through in September 1944. This storm again destroyed the bridge and causeway. For a time, the military decided not to rebuild. It seemed as though this chapter of the story was over.

As World War II was coming to a close in the summer of 1945, Washburn Island got a new purpose. It became a place of recovery for those G.I.s returning from battle. The island that was not long before filled with amphibious vehicles and soldiers preparing for battle now looked far different.

On August 9, 1945, Washburn Island opened the Convalescent Hospital. It was staffed by twenty-five officers and men and was visited daily by 800 men who were transported to the island over the causeway via bus.

Recovering soldiers had access to surfboards, diving rafts, boats for fishing, lounge chairs, and various other beach games. Lt. Victor Dauer, the commanding officer of Washburn Island, emphasized that the facilities were meant for total physical and mental relaxation. Soldiers from all across the country came to Washburn. They got a slice of the good life as the highly regarded Coonamessett Club temporarily operated only to serve those veterans.

When all of the soldiers who had needed help had been taken care of, it was time for Washburn Island to be returned to its namesake. The structures that had been erected were all torn down, leaving only cement slabs on the island. The government gave the island back to Florence Washburn; however, it had changed dramatically.

Numerous trees had been cut down to make way for the military buildings, or they had been felled by the hurricane. The structures that did remain included the old farmhouse, the barn, an ice house, and a bath house. One thing that would not remain was the bridge. In late September 1946, the wooden bridge was removed, and Washburn truly was an island again.

The structures left on the island were left to slowly decay over the years, leading to their eventual razing. Despite the island being deserted, Florence refused to sell, even stating on numerous occasions that she would ‘never’ sell the island. She did, however, continue to allow visitors to the island for recreation up until her death on January 27, 1953.

Florence’s son, Dr. Lincoln Washburn, continued his mother’s policy of allowing visitors and also to never sell the property. This finally changed in 1976 when large increases in taxes in Falmouth got Dr. Washburn’s attention. Talks were loud in the coming years about potentially building a fifty-luxury-home subdivision complete with a 150-spot parking lot and a 200-foot dock. Luckily, the state stepped in to preserve the natural beauty.

In June 1983, the Commonwealth of Massachusetts acquired the island for $2.1 million($6.83 million in 2025). This was a far better option than the alternative.

Washburn Island was incorporated into the Waquoit Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve, which manages it for habitat protection, research, and low-impact recreation. Today, the Massachusetts Department of Conservation & Recreation (in partnership with the Reserve) manages camping, trails, and visitor access; the island contains primitive campsites, composting toilets, and marked trails but no developed utilities, preserving much of its wild character. What remains today on Washburn Island includes the natural features like a barrier beach, dunes, and salt ponds. There are also oak and pine forests and marshes, which are habitats for shorebirds and marine life. Except for the very small concrete slabs being overtaken by nature, there is nothing that remains from the days when the island was used as preparation for battle and the recovery from it.

Those looking to visit the island may do so. There can be day visits, beaching boats, hiking, and a small, reservation-only primitive campground (ten sites, plus one group site). Access to Washburn Island is by private boat only; there’s no public ferry. One can easily kayak to the island. The closest point to Washburn is at the Menauhaunt Yacht Club, which is less than one hundred feet. The island’s management emphasizes research, stewardship, and low-impact recreation.

In a local newspaper article in 1951, Washburn Island was seen as a place so badly damaged by storms and people that it could not be able to be salvaged. Nearly eighty years later, it stands as a pristine escape within an escape on Cape Cod. From the Native Americans, to the Bryants, to the Washburns, to the military, back to the Washburns, and finally to the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, this 330-acre property has had an incredible story. Luckily, it will remain a beautiful getaway for hikers, campers, and beachgoers when it easily could have become another private haven for the filthy rich, which makes up too much of Cape Cod as it is.

Looking across Waquoit Bay with Washburn Island on the right.



Wednesday, December 14, 2011

In My Footsteps: Trip 128: Salisbury, Massachusetts


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund


Trip 128:  Salisbury, Massachusetts
November 9, 2011


            This is the final stop on Massachusetts’ North Shore.  Salisbury is a popular summer resort town with a very well known beach.  Originally called 'Colchester,' the town of Salisbury was deeded to Secretary of the Massachusetts Bay Colony Simon Bradstreet on September 6, 1638 by Governor John Winthrop.  The land grant actually included a larger area encompassing the modern towns of Amesbury, Massachusetts and the towns of Seabrook, and South Hampton, New Hampshire among others.
March's Ordinary on Ring's Island
            Part of the charm of Salisbury can be found immediately upon entering the town on Route 1 over the Merrimack River from Newburyport.  A quick right turn will lead you to Rings Island, an historic fishing village.  The land that encompasses Ring Island was granted to Robert Ring of Salisbury on March 26, 1642.  It was two acres at the time and deeded to Ring on the condition that the land be used for fishing.
            Today Ring’s Island is filled with restored homes from hundreds of years ago as well as a beautiful view of Newburyport from the Salisbury Town Wharf.  The wharf houses a tremendous panoramic view stretching from the Rt. 1 bridge east to Plum Island.  Nearly straight ahead from where the wharf stretches out into the river one can easily see the diminutive Front Range Lighthouse along the shore with the tall, brick Rear Range Lighthouse a little further behind it.
Salisbury Parsonage at Minister's Corner c.1820
            One of the most historic homes I discovered on Ring’s Island is on 2nd Street.  March’s ‘Ordinary’, or Inn, was built in 1690.  The home was built for John March who in 1687 was granted the right to begin a ferry from Newbury to Ring’s Island.  In exchange for a tavern license March agreed to pay half of the cost of the route from his ferry to the town.  The Inn was in continuous use for 137 years which was when the first bridge was built across the Merrimack River making a ferry obsolete.
            Almost directly across the street from March’s Ordinary is another home of interest.  This one also sports the name John March, Captain John March to be exact.  It is a plain white home built in 1752 it states by Capt. John March.  I believe this must be a son as the elder March would have had to be very old if alive at all when this home was erected.  I particularly enjoyed the latitude and longitude markings on the front of the house.  Ring’s Island is a small area and can easily be seen in an hour or less.
            The town of Salisbury however is most noted for Salisbury Beach State Park and the waterfront Salisbury Beach area.  It is here that the true feel of the town is on display.  The State Park includes 521 acres and a nearly four mile long beach leading to the mouth of the Merrimack River.  There are also 484 sites in the park’s camping area which are open for use from early-May through late November when it is only opened Thursday through Saturday night.
A fishing vessel entering the Merrimack River.
            There are a few large parking areas for the beach but these surely fill up during the summer as Salisbury Beach is one of the most popular beaches in the entire state of Massachusetts.  I chose to park in the lot closest to the river with the best view of Plum Island across the water.  From here it is a short walk to the shore.  As luck would have it a classic fishing vessel was entering the mouth of the river as I arrived.  I was able to get plenty of great photos as it slowly returned into the harbor.
            I walked along the river shore out to the beach and was amazed at the view of the Salisbury Beach amusement area stretching north to the New Hampshire border.  The beach was not overly crowded on this day but there were still a good amount of people walking or sitting in chairs as the North Shore waves crashed on the sand.  Whether spending an afternoon on the beach or a night camping it is definitely a worthwhile trip to the Salisbury Beach State Park.
The sand sculpture of Snoopy at Salisbury Beach.
            Besides the state park area Salisbury Beach also has a classic amusement area that brings up visions of the Coney Island in New York, minus the rollercoasters.  The area I enjoyed is where Beach Road travels toward the ocean and then loops around to become Broadway.  There is an island in between the two roads where many sand sculptures were located.  Though the ravages of the wind had eroded parts of some they had remained intact for the most part.  I particularly enjoyed the sculpture of Snoopy sleeping on his dog house although this was one that had been worn out by the ocean winds.
            Surrounding the sculptures are typical shoreline attractions like arcades and movie theaters.  Names like Joe’s Playland and Hobo’s Café make this stretch of Salisbury unique and very popular all year long.  I was glad to visit when I did however as I can only imagine how packed the beach and amusement area is during the summer.  I highly recommend checking out the final stop along Massachusetts’ North Shore.  Whether it’s summertime or anytime, Salisbury is absolutely worth the drive from anywhere, have fun and happy traveling!   
                       
My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!


Directions:  Ring’s Island:  From I-95N take Exit 56, take slight right onto Scotland Road.  Follow it 2 miles, continue onto Parker Street, after .4 miles turn right to stay on Parker Street.  Take 3rd exit at rotary for Newburyport Turnpike, follow it 1.6 miles, take 1st right over the bridge for 1st Street.

            Salisbury Beach State Park:  From I-95 N take Exit 58A, take a slight right onto Rt. 110E.  Follow 2.1 miles, take left onto Bridge Road.  Take 2nd right onto Beach Road, follow 1.9 miles, turn right onto State Beach Road.

            Salisbury Beach.org

Sunday, January 31, 2010

In My Footsteps: Trip 15 - Nickerson State Park


In My Footsteps
Christopher Setterlund
Trip 15: Nickerson State Park, Brewster, Mass.
January 28, 2010
           
            Worthy of its own article and worthy of more than one trip on its grounds Nickerson State Park in Brewster is in my opinion one of the crown jewels of hiking and natural beauty on Cape Cod.  Located on Route 6A just a short drive from Exit 12 off of the Mid-Cape highway, Nickerson is a huge attraction for locals and visitors alike.  It is a prime area for freshwater swimming and camping as well as hiking and bicycling.  I have been coming here for more than twenty years and with each visit I find something new and exciting in my travels.
            Set on 1,900 acres of prime land, Nickerson houses many kettle ponds formed by glaciers over 10,000 years ago.  The campsites offer breathtaking views and the sweet scents of the pine forest that no words can describe.  The park bears the name Roland J. Nickerson in honor of the multimillionaire who owned the land in the late 19th century.  His mansion is now the Ocean Edge Resort and Club in Brewster.
            There are times during a hike around Big Cliff Pond(right), or as you ride through the eight miles of bike trails that you may actually feel as though you are in the middle of nowhere.  However, there is actually a trail located at the far end of Nook Road that comes within a few hundred feet of the highway.
            The first place to visit upon entering the park is Flax Pond(left).  Located on the first left after entering Flax Pond is, along with Big Cliff Pond, the most popular places for families to come and enjoy themselves.  Since none of these kettle ponds have streams or rivers to feed them water their level can fluctuate year to year.  Flax Pond has canoes for rent a short walk from the main entrance and with no current the water is very safe and easy to navigate for paddler and swimmer alike.
            At the end of Flax Pond Road you will find Big and Little Cliff Pond.  At their closest the two kettles are separated by about seventy-five feet but they never do connect.  Canoeing is also available here and there are boat ramps available for people coming with their own water transportation.  Up on a hill, a short walk up a lot of steps, brings you to a picnic area with an amazing aerial view of Big Cliff Pond.  In summer when the picnic area would be used the view is quite obscured by the green plants and trees, but on this trip in the dead of winter you could see all the way around the periphery of the pond.  There are cabins for camping at the top of the hill as well and just about any parking area along the whole of Nickerson can be made into an impressive hike.  As much as I am mentioning great places to see at Nickerson State Park there really is no bad spot to choose.  It is just as much fun to point yourself in one direction and just go.
            Further along down Nook Rd. there is a popular fishing spot on Big Cliff Pond.  There is a small dirt parking area located amongst the trees.  The roads at Nickerson although they have names are really just one long road that carries you from the entrance at Rt. 6A to the dead end near the highway.  Flax Pond Rd. is one side road to check out as is Nan-Ke-Rafe Path which is dirt and leads to Rafe Pond.
            Camp Nan-Ke-Rafe, located on the grounds is a seventeen acre campground run by Dream Day On Cape Cod who runs camps in summer in support of special needs children and their families.  The grounds can be walked at any time of year.  There is a parking area right before the entrance to Nickerson for those wishing to bike ride through the park.  Barb’s Bike Shop has a location there and has a great selection of bikes and rental prices that won’t hurt your wallet.
  Also it would not be a proper day out at Nickerson during the summer without stopping at Cobies, a popular restaurant located just before you reach Nickerson.  It has a great atmosphere with outside picnic tables and has been serving great fried food since 1948.  A visit here can be the perfect end or beginning to your day, I know it has been for me many times!    
            Nickerson State Park is a perfect spot for a picnic, for a family outing, or to just take some time to enjoy the sights, sounds, and scents of untouched nature.  This wonderful escape can be enjoyed at any time of year and is a great change of pace from the crowded beaches.  Make it a point to visit Nickerson, no matter what route you choose you will find some amazing scenery.  Have fun and happy traveling!  
Directions:  From the highway, take exit 12.  Head west on Rt. 6A for 1.7 miles, Nickerson is on the left.  Barb’s Bike Shop is next left following Nickerson entrance.  Cobies is 1,000 feet up on the left.
References:  Dream Day On Cape Cod
            Barb's Bike Shop
            Cobies