In My Footsteps: Trip 112: Georgetown, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 112:  Georgetown, Massachusetts

March 9, 2011

Sign marking site of Goodrich Massacre.

            Originally settled as the West Parish of Rowley by a group of farmers looking for fertile meadowlands the small town of Georgetown has a long history.  Georgetown was called New Rowley until it was large enough to be incorporated on its own in 1838.  It is now considered a distant suburb of the amazing North Shore.

Brocklebank House

            Though the colony was not directly involved in King Philip’s War, from 1675-76, it was the recipient of Native American raids.  This tied in directly to the first place I visited once I entered Georgetown.  On North Street sits an unassuming sign, what it says is very important though.  It marks the site of the Goodrich Massacre which happened in 1692.  The story is that Benjamin Goodrich, his wife, and two daughters were killed by a group of Native Americans during their evening prayer.  There is no known reason for the slaughter but it is an anomaly as there are so few Native American massacre sites on the North Shore.  Besides the sign there is not much to see.  There is a regular home on the grounds and I was not okay with walking the ten ‘rods,’ or about 165 feet, to the proper site of the massacre.

            While stopping periodically to photograph various historic homes I ended up having a pretty odd experience.  The spot I was supposed to shoot was the Samuel Brocklebank House.  I parked across the street from it at the end of Elm Street in front of a very eerie dark green antiques shop building.  The name said Auntie Lil’s and I cannot find much information about it.  The reason it was an odd experience was the banging on the windows when I stepped out of my car.  I made a point to stop and look around for any people moving around in a neighboring house but there was nothing as far as I saw.

Auntie Lil's antiques, haunted?

            I went and shot the Brocklebank House and returned to my car only to hear the same banging on the windows of the old antiques shop.  It intrigued me so much that I took a few photos of the building hoping to maybe see something in one of the windows.  There was nothing but I would love to hear if anybody else ever heard or saw something around that building or if it was just my imagination.

            The Brocklebank House was built in the late 1600’s with the land the house stands on being deeded to surveyor Samuel Brocklebank in 1661.  Brocklebank was killed in 1676 during King Philip’s War but the house remained in his family until 1754 when it was sold and turned into a tavern.  There is a sign depicting a redcoat soldier with the year 1754 on it which I figure represents the time the home became a tavern.  It was under repair while I was there which made visiting inside impossible.

Georgetown Town Offices, home of 'Old Nancy.'

            Something I found interesting about Georgetown was the fact that their town hall was not always used as such.  The yellow building where the town offices reside was formerly a school, the Central School built in 1905.  Inside the historic old school sits ‘Old Nancy.’  Old Nancy is a Revolutionary War cannon supposedly taken from the British warship ‘Nancy’ which was captured off of Gloucester.  The best part of the story is that the cannon was left by major Eben Boynton to his two sons, one from New Rowley(Georgetown) and the other from Rowley.  The cannon has spent time in both towns and they both lay claim to it as their own.

            A small town with a rich history Georgetown is a spot that everyone will enjoy.  Take the time to visit the historical society at the Brocklebank House and gaze upon ‘Old Nancy’ the Revolutionary War cannon.  Also if anybody knows whether Auntie Lil’s antiques shop is haunted let me know.  Have fun and happy traveling!

            For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!

Directions:  Brocklebank House:  From I-95 N take exit 54B for Rt. 133/E. Main St.  Follow 2 miles, house will be on the right.  Auntie Lil’s antiques is across the street.

            Georgetown Town Hall:  From I-95 N take exit 53B for Rt. 97 N.  Follow 3.5 mi., turn right at Library St., town hall is on right.

References:  Georgetown Historical Society  

            Georgetown, Ma. - Official Town Site

In My Footsteps: Trip 58: Rockport, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 58: Rockport, Mass.

July 1, 2010

            I had originally featured Rockport in an article which included three other North Shore towns.  Looking back on it I realized that there was so much to see in this amazing seaside village that it definitely needed its own article.  This of course meant a second trip to Rockport which I was very happy to do.

The Thacher Island Twin Lights

Located just past Gloucester, at the tip of Cape Ann, Rockport is a well known artist colony.  It also was a ‘dry town,’ meaning no alcohol was to be sold within its borders, until 2005.  This law goes back to the story of Hannah Jumper.  She led a revolt of 200 mothers, wives, and daughters in 1856 to destroy all of the liquor in town.  The reason for this was the fact that although fishing was a tremendous industry for Rockport, the Northeast’s weather only permitted it for nine months out of the year.  The other three months were spent by the men spending much of their hard-earned money on booze.  Ms. Jumper’s rebellion against the ‘demon rum’ led to Rockport being ‘dry’ for 149 years.

The famous Motif #1

The first area I decided to see cannot be accessed except by boat.  I did not have a boat so I had to partake in the view from the shore.  The Thacher Island Twin Lighthouses are both unusual and beautiful.  The pair of smoky-grey granite lighthouses sit on the small Thacher Island about a half mile off of the mainland.  The closest view of the lights comes from taking a drive on Old Penzance Road.  There is a small dirt parking area where you can walk out to the edge of the water and gaze across at the pair of 124-foot tall towers.  The terrain is a bit tricky as the path gives way to an assortment of rock pieces, some large, some smaller.  However as long as you are aware of the surroundings there is no real danger in walking out to the shore.  The lighthouses were built in 1861.  There are summer tours of the island and private boaters are allowed to visit the grounds as well if you have access to a vessel.

The entrance to Bearskin Neck

The next place I visited was one of the most unique of all the spots I have seen thus far: The Paper House.  Originally built in 1922 by Mr. Elis F. Stenman this house is really what it claims to be.  The walls of the house and furniture inside are completely made out of paper.  From a distance it does not look the out of the ordinary; the paper now being nearly ninety years old has a brownish color.  Once you are near enough you can see what makes this place so unique.  There are actually spots on the walls where you can see old newspaper pages that have been included in the lining of the house.

This spot was built as a summer house for Mr. Stenman who built the machines that make paper clips.  His creations inside the house include a piano, desk, and chair, all made from paper that was then varnished to hold it together better.  There is a small admission fee and the house is open every day from the spring through the fall.  Despite being a house in name it is still a bit fragile and visitors are asked to be gentle with this amazing work of art.  It is a bit out of the way but worth the drive to find it.

Paper House

The final area I visited in Rockport probably deserves an article all its own.  Located along the northern coastline of the town Bearskin Neck is an amazing collection of former fishing and lobster shacks that have been gradually transformed into shops and art galleries.  It was named for the bears that were hunted by being chased out onto the narrow strip of land in the early 18^th century.  The first dock was built in 1743 and Bearskin Neck was the commercial and shipbuilding center of Rockport for 150 years.

There is much more to see along the narrow streets that make up Bearskin Neck besides just the incredible shops which line it.  At the very end of the paved road, which acts as a sort of center aisle in an outdoor shopping mall, there is a building which stands on the site of the Old Stone Fort.  It was just as its name says, built for the War of 1812 it was routinely fired upon by British naval ships.  However, the most famous location of the Bearskin Neck is a dark red fishing shack on Bradley Wharf known as Motif #1.  It is said to be America’s most painted and photographed building.  The original was built in 1884 but the ravages of Mother Nature have knocked the building down a few times.  It was most recently rebuilt in 1978.  The Motif got its name from art teacher Lester Hornby.

Legend has it that the teacher would send his students out into Rockport to paint scenes of the town.  When student after student chose the venerable shack as a subject for sketches Mr. Hornby was said to have replied ‘What?  Motif #1 again!?.’  After getting a close up view of the shack it is very easy to see why so many of those students, and visitors to this day, flock to it.  The deep red color, the collection of buoys hanging ever so neatly on its façade; this rather unassuming shack just oozes personality.

Rockport has many incredible places to visit.  Bearskin Neck is worthy of its own article but there is so much more.  The outstanding Paper House is a one in a million destination, literally.  Even though you more than likely will not be able to physically touch them, the Thacher Island Twin Lighthouses make for a majestic scene as they stretch toward the sky just offshore.  I highly recommend taking them in, walking along the promenade that is Bearskin Neck, and don’t forget to take a photo of Motif #1.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Bearskin Neck:  Take Rt. 128 off of I-95.  Stay on Rt. 128 through two rotaries and turn left onto Rt. 127.  Rt. 127 becomes Broadway, turn left at Mt. Pleasant Street. Bearskin Neck is on the right.

            The Paper House:  Follow Rt. 127 north toward Pigeon Cove. After the Yankee Clipper Inn take the second left, which is Curtis Street, then another left on Pigeon Hill Street.  The Paper House is #52, on your right.

            Thacher Island Twin Lights:  From Rt. 128 north turn left on Eastern Ave., then right onto Barn Lane.  Turn left at Rt. 127A north.  Turn right at South St., take 1^st left onto Penzance Road.  There is a small dirt parking area with a great view of the lighthouses.   

References:  Cape Ann.com - Bearskin Neck

            Rockport USA.com

            Paper House Rockport.com

            Thacher Island.org

Rockport on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 57: Gloucester, Mass. - Trip 2

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 57: Gloucester, Mass. – Trip 2

July 1, 2010

            Even better than the first time, if it was humanly possible.  This is how I sum up my second visit to the amazing fishing port of Gloucester.  My initial visit in late winter was magnificent as I was able to see all of the sites the town is known for.  This time, a mid-summer jaunt, was even better thanks to the warm sunny weather and the fact that I was able to visit even more spots I did not have the chance to see before.

            For those who did not read my previous article Gloucester is America’s oldest seaport.  Fishing is as synonymous with this town as the famous Witch Trials are to Salem.  Located so close to Boston there is really no reason not to make the trip up here and see what in my opinion is the shining example of what a fishing village should be.

            My return began with a visit to a familiar place, Western Avenue and The Man At the Wheel statue(left).  Being so close to Independence Day I found the American flags adoring each post of the railing along the sea wall to be a perfect complement to the majesty that is the tribute to Gloucester’s fishing heritage.  The eight-foot tall bronze statue not only looks out over Gloucester Harbor, but also faces several plaque listing the names of all of the brave souls from Gloucester that have lost their lives out on the sea.  The most well known names are those of the crew of the Andrea Gail whose loss was depicted by the film The Perfect Storm.  The Man At the Wheel is definitely the most well known landmark in Gloucester but it is hardly the only spot to visit.

            Not far from the historic downtown area of Gloucester sits a place that a first time visitor might not expect to see.  On Hesperus Avenue there is a medieval castle, that’s not a misprint, a medieval castle.  Hammond Castle(left), built by John Hays Hammond Jr. between 1926 and 1929, sits on a classic North Shore rocky cliff.  The view is simply amazing as you gaze across the harbor toward Eastern Point Lighthouse.  There is also a short path to walk through a sweet smelling flower garden as well.  The castle is complete with several fearsome looking gargoyles and an impressive drawbridge.

            Hammond Castle was built by Mr. Hammond to serve as his home and to house his collection of Roman, medieval, and Renaissance artifacts.  Hammond was also a prolific inventor, second only to Thomas Edison as far as patents.  He is known as the ‘Father of Remote Control’ thanks to his works with remote control via radio waves.  His grave is located on the grounds and is guarded by a pair of lion statues.  The castle now doubles as a museum and is opened all through the summer it is another must see spot in Gloucester.

            Another favorite spot of mine is the amazing Stage Fort Park on Hough Street.  The site of the first settlers to the Gloucester area from Dorchester, England, Stage Fort Park has a nearly fifty-foot tall boulder containing a gigantic plaque commemorating this fact.  The view from the top of the boulder is breathtaking as you can see all across the wide open park to the east, historic downtown Gloucester to the north, and Ten Pound Island and lighthouse to the west.  This island received its name either from the amount of money paid to the local Indians, or for the number of sheep pens, known as ‘pounds,’ located on the island.  The wide open scope of the park is what I tend to take away from this place, there is nothing like it on Cape Cod.  I also enjoyed Half Moon Beach(above), one of the two beaches at Stage Fort Park; it is very small and secluded amongst the rocks, a sort of lagoon.  This beach is traditionally accepted as the spot where the first settlers made landfall.

            Much like Hammond Castle, the abandoned village of Dogtown on Cherry Street is a spot not expected to be seen in the historic fishing village of Gloucester.  The story of this place is amazing.  Originally settled in 1693 because of its direct road to neighboring Rockport, and also because being inland served as protection from pirates, Dogtown peaked at around a hundred families around the turn of the 19^th century.   When new coastal roads opened after the end of the War of 1812 many of the residents left the settlement due to the new roads possibly inviting invaders to their area. 

            Dogtown’s name is something for debate.  One story is that the abandoned homes were used for years by vagrants and other unsavory characters that were said to have acted like dogs.  Another story has the name coming from the fact that as the last remaining families left in the area, dealing with these vagrants, bought dogs for protection.  When these folks died their dogs remained and became feral and howled during the nights.  The area is now dense woods with great hiking trails that used to be roads.  There are also thirty-six ‘Babson Boulders’ which are adorned with inspirational quotes.  These were commissioned during the Great Depression and make for a fun sort of treasure hunt.

            Speaking of a treasure hunt, my final destination was a spot that I was not able to find on my last trip to Gloucester: Annisquam Lighthouse(left).  It is a tough place to find even with a GPS but this time I did.  Located on Wigwam Point the current lighthouse was built in 1897 but the station was established in 1801.  The view along the coast is spectacular; the fact that the keeper’s house is private actually makes it better.  This fact means that to see the lighthouse up close you need to go along the shore, with the lighthouse up on some rocks you end up almost underneath it.  I have never seen a lighthouse from this vantage point.  It was a perfect end to another perfect trip to one of my favorite places.                  

            Gloucester, America’s oldest seaport lives up to its reputation as a beautiful getaway for those in Boston.  It is also well worth the trip from anywhere in the state or New England.  It only gets better each time I go.  At times it felt as though I had one foot in the present and one foot in the past.  Lighthouses, medieval castles, spacious parks, legendary abandoned villages, historic memorials; Gloucester has everything you could want in a vacation or a day trip.  I suggest taking more than just a day to discover it all though, or you will find you have missed so much.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Check out a short video featuring a slideshow of my photos from Gloucester on YouTube here:  In My Footsteps - Gloucester, Mass.

Directions: Hammond Castle Museum: From I-95 N take Exit 47A, turn right onto Maple St., continue on to Poplar St.  Slight right at Elliot St., merge onto Rt. 128.  Take Exit 15, follow School St. to Rt. 127.  Follow Rt. 127 5 miles, turn right at Hesperus St., castle is .7 mi on left.

Stage Fort Park: From I-95 N take Exit 47A, turn right onto Maple St., continue on to Poplar St.  Slight right at Elliot St., merge onto Rt. 128.  Take Exit 15, follow School St. to Rt. 127.  Follow Rt. 127 6.5 miles, turn left onto Hough Avenue.

Man At the Wheel Memorial: From I-95 N take Exit 47A, turn right onto Maple St., continue on to Poplar St.  Slight right at Elliot St., merge onto Rt. 128.  Take Exit 15, follow School St. to Rt. 127.  Follow Rt. 127 approx. 7 mi., statue and memorial is on the right.

Annisquam Lighthouse: From Rt. 127 turn onto Leonard Street, next to the white Annisquam Village Church. Turn right at a large ‘Norwood Heights’ sign. Follow the road across an intersection, past a ‘Dead End’ sign. Continue toward the water. Follow as the road turns to the right and then take an immediate left. Continue to the lighthouse at the end of the road.   The parking lot is very small.

References: References:  Hammond Castle Museum

            Gloucester, Ma.com

            Annisquam Lighthouse

            Cape Ann Historical Museum       

            The Story of Dogtown

Gloucester on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 31: Gloucester, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 31: Gloucester, Mass.

March 6, 2010

            What the Witch Trials are to Salem that is what fishing is to Gloucester.  It is what defines this incredible North Shore village.  America’s oldest seaport, Gloucester houses many beautiful landscapes along its shore and some memorable statues and of course lighthouses.  Only a forty mile drive north of Boston, this popular tourist destination at times can seem like the perfect painting of what a fishing village should be.

            Following Rt. 127 North from Manchester there is a perfect place to start any journey around Gloucester.  The amazing Stage Fort Park(left) has a Visitor’s Center open during the warmer months and is home to one of the best views in the North Shore area.  The site of the first settlers to the Gloucester area from Dorchester, England, Stage Fort Park has a nearly fifty foot tall boulder containing a gigantic plaque commemorating this fact.  The view from the top of the boulder is breathtaking as you can see all across the wide open park to the east, historic downtown Gloucester to the north, and Ten Pound Island and lighthouse to the west.  This island received its name either from the amount of money paid to the local Indians, or for the number of sheep pens, known as ‘pounds,’ located on the island.

There are two beaches at Stage Fort Park, Cressy’s Beach, a normal, rocky beach and Half Moon Beach which is very small and secluded amongst the rocks, a sort of lagoon.  This is traditionally accepted as the spot where the first settlers made landfall.

            Before heading into the historic downtown area of Gloucester there is a much unexpected site to see, especially for a well known fishing village.  Backtracking a little from Stage Fort Park you will find the Hammond Castle Museum(right).  It is a medieval castle in the middle of the North Shore.  Built by John Hays Hammond Jr. between 1926 and 1929, this authentic castle was created to serve as his home and to house his collection of Roman, medieval, and Renaissance artifacts.  Hammond was also a prolific inventor, second only to Thomas Edison as far as patents.  He is known as the ‘Father of Remote Control’ thanks to his works with remote control via radio waves. 

            The castle itself is brilliant.  It sits on a rocky cliff with the waves battering the shore loudly; from there you can see Eastern Point Lighthouse sitting across the harbor.  Walking through the courtyard of the castle one feels like they have been transported back a thousand years.  There are several gargoyle statues perched precariously overhead, along with stone lions guarding a drawbridge as well as the actual grave of Mr. Hammond.  The castle is opened on weekends starting in May but even on this day when it was closed Hammond Castle is a truly impressive site and needs to be seen.  

            From Hammond Castle the next stop is the historic downtown area of Gloucester.  Rt. 127 is also known as Western Avenue as it crosses over the mouth of the Annisquam River.  Here there are several beautiful statues and sculptures, none as famous as The Man At The Wheel(right).  This beautiful eight-foot tall bronze statue on a granite base of a fisherman at the wheel of a ship faces out over the harbor.  It is symbolic of Gloucester’s connection with fishing and the sea itself.  The statue overlooks the Gloucester Fisherman’s Memorial.  On these plaques are listed the names of all of those lost at sea over the past 300 years.  Included among these names are the crew of the Andrea Gail(below, right) who lost their lives during the so-called ‘Perfect Storm’ of October 1991. 

            A great place to stop for lunch on Western Avenue is Roma Pizza & Subs.  It is a small place big on quality.  There may not be room for more than a dozen or so people to sit inside but it is hard to sit inside when facing beautiful Gloucester Harbor.  People must be in and out nonstop during the warmer months picking up hot and cold subs, pizza, and fries before heading back out to watch the fishing boats coming and going.  The food and the views go hand in hand to add to the allure of this North Shore destination.

            On the other side of the harbor, visible from Hammond Castle, is Eastern Point Lighthouse(left).  Located far out at the end of Eastern Point the current lighthouse sits on private property behind a chain link fence, although the fence does not obscure the view at all.  Built in 1890, the lighthouse is on the grounds of a Coast Guard station and still is in use.  Jutting out into the harbor is 2,250 foot long breakwater called Dog Bar Breakwater.  At the end of this breakwater sits Dog Bar Breakwater Light.  It was built as added protection for incoming vessels and can be visited at anytime.  However, with the normal rough seas of the area it is wise to be careful when walking out on the long breakwater as at times rogue waves have been known to come barreling in and hit the rocks, shooting water sometimes ten feet into the air over the breakwater.  I witnessed this myself and thought twice about making a journey all the way out to see Dog Bar Breakwater Light.

            Gloucester, America’s oldest seaport, lives up to its reputation as a beautiful getaway for those in Boston.  It is also well worth the trip from anywhere in the state or New England.  It is so rare to find a place that has held onto its roots as a fishing village.  At times it felt as though I had one foot in the present and one foot in the past.  Lighthouses, medieval castles, spacious parks, great food, historic memorials, Gloucester has everything you could want in a vacation or a day trip.  I suggest taking more than just a day to discover it all though, or you will find you have missed so much.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Check out a short video slideshow of my photos from Gloucester on YouTube here: In My Footsteps - Gloucester, Mass.


Directions: Hammond Castle Museum: From I-95 N take Exit 47A, turn right onto Maple St., continue on to Poplar St.  Slight right at Elliot St., merge onto Rt. 128.  Take Exit 15, follow School St. to Rt. 127.  Follow Rt. 127 5 miles, turn right at Hesperus St., castle is .7 mi on left.

Stage Fort Park: From I-95 N take Exit 47A, turn right onto Maple St., continue on to Poplar St.  Slight right at Elliot St., merge onto Rt. 128.  Take Exit 15, follow School St. to Rt. 127.  Follow Rt. 127 6.5 miles, turn left onto Hough Avenue.

Man At the Wheel Memorial: From I-95 N take Exit 47A, turn right onto Maple St., continue on to Poplar St.  Slight right at Elliot St., merge onto Rt. 128.  Take Exit 15, follow School St. to Rt. 127.  Follow Rt. 127 approx. 7 mi., statue and memorial is on the right.

Eastern Point Light: Follow Western Ave., turn right onto Angle St., left at Rogers St.  Continue onto Main St., slight right at E. Main St.  Follow 1.1 mi. continue onto Eastern Point Rd.  Slight right at Eastern Point Blvd. W., lighthouse will be on left.

 To view video of my North Shore trip visit YouTube.com - North Shore Trip

References:  Hammond Castle Museum

            Gloucester, Ma.com

            Eastern Point Lighthouse

            Roma Pizza & Subs

            Cape Ann Historical Museum        

Gloucester on Dwellable