In My Footsteps: Trip 111: Ipswich, Mass. - Trip 2

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 111:  Ipswich, Massachusetts

March 9, 2011

            Yet another amazing jewel of the North Shore of Massachusetts the town of Ipswich is bursting at the seams with history.  This was not my first time visiting Ipswich though I will admit that my first trip and article were subpar for me.  I did not get the chance to see a lot of what I wanted to due to time constraints.  This time I made certain that all of the sites of Ipswich passed before my eyes and were captured by my camera.

John Whipple House c. 1677

            Originally called ‘Agawam’ by the local Native Americans Ipswich got its name from the corresponding town in Suffolk, England in 1634.  The first European settlers became farmers, fishermen, and shipbuilders while the Ipswich River provided water power for mills.  At the turn of the 20^th century however it was stockings, made by the Ipswich Hosiery Mills, which became the town’s greatest export.

            The sheer number of historic homes in Ipswich is mind boggling, though it shouldn’t have surprised me that much since the town has nearly 400 years of history.  Rather than try to shoot all of these homes as I tend to try in other towns I chose to concentrate solely on the 17^th century homes which are so rare to still be standing.  I photographed nine homes built before 1700 in Ipswich, there might be more I am not sure but that is an unbelievable amount of houses from that era.  Each home has the date it was built as well as the original occupant.  I don’t believe that any of them had historical significance, I suppose just the fact that they still stand is significant enough.

Choate Bridge

            One of the 17^th century homes that has historic significance is the John Whipple House on South Main Street.  The first thing I noticed about this home was the fact that the year it was built has been changed on the sign.  The year 1677 is in bright paint yet underneath can clearly be seen the year 1655.  I have since discovered that the reason for this change in the established year is due to a dendrochronology test in 2005.  This is the process of tree-ring dating.  This test proved the earliest part of the house was built in 1677.  John Whipple was a British soldier and entrepreneur.  It was restored and has been a museum since 1899.

            The last time I visited Ipswich I missed out on a few awesome places located a short walk from the Whipple House.  This time I was able to check them out and it was so rewarding.  One spot is the Choate Bridge which crosses over the Ipswich River.  The bridge is the oldest surviving double arch bridge in the United States having been erected in 1764.  The ‘Choate’ name comes from Col. John Choate, local treasurer who supervised the construction and was also the first person to cross over the completed bridge, by horse.  There is a great view of the river from the bridge but the best view comes from taking a tour on the Ipswich Historic Riverwalk.

Part of the mural along the Ipswich Riverwalk.

            The Riverwalk was recently completed in 2005 with a twelve-foot wide bridge crossing over the Ipswich River just below the old hosiery mill dam.  The water rushes underneath you and is mesmerizing.  Once you get across to the other side there is a stunning mural painted along the side of the EBSCO Publishing parking deck building.  The mural basically shows the history of Ipswich as well as America from the beginning up to now.  I say up to now because in the final section of the mural there is a modern cookout going on with one of the people wearing a Tom Brady jersey.

The Inn at Castle Hill

            Once again I ended my time in Ipswich with one of my favorite places I have been to thus far: Castle Hill.  It was a spot well known to the local Native Americans for centuries and became farmland when John Winthrop Jr., son of the first governor of Massachusetts, laid claim to the land in 1637.  It is on the way to Crane Beach, which can be accessed from this property along the walking trails.  I cannot explain the majesty of this area, not only the natural beauty but the amazing architecture of The Great House. 

The Great House sits atop the actual Castle Hill.  It was built in 1928 and includes fifty-nine rooms.  There are concerts on the property during the summer but even visiting now at the end of winter it was a great time.  The lawn is at the rear of the property is incredible.  It was not so much anything about the grass, but more of the spaciousness of it.  I can only describe it as a hundred foot wide swath of green which starts at the back of the Great House and slopes down for as far as the eye can see.  I was in awe of the scope of this landscaping marvel.  There are trails which encircle the property and I found out beforehand that much of The Next Karate Kid and The Witches of Eastwick were filmed on the grounds. 

The enormous rear lawn at Castle Hill.

A lot of the garden areas along the sides of the mansion are in disarray and inaccessible but I was able to see enough to imagine what it must have looked like when it was brand new.  Even on a raw and windy day I took my time and enjoyed the sights until my hands were too numb to shoot anymore photos.  I highly recommend taking the time to fully engross yourself in the natural and architectural wonder of Castle Hill.

Whether strolling the grounds at Castle Hill, crossing the Ipswich River on the Riverwalk, or simply going on the hunt for 17^th century homes the beautiful North Shore town of Ipswich is something to behold.  I am so glad I went back and visited the right way, that’s the only real way to do it!  Have fun and happy traveling!

For a video showcasing Castle Hill check out YouTube.com - Castle Hill.

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!

Directions:  Castle Hill:  From Rt. 128 North take Exit 20A, take Rt. 1A North for 8 mi. to Ipswich. Turn right onto Rt. 133 East and follow for 1.5 mi. Turn left onto Northgate Rd. and follow for 0.5 mi. Turn right onto Argilla Rd. and follow for 2.3 mi. to entrance.

            Whipple House:  From Rt. 1 north take a right at Ipswich Rd., continue onto Topsfield Rd.  Continue onto Market Street, turn right at S. Main Street.  Turn sharply right at S. Village Green where Whipple House is.  Choate Bridge and Ipswich Riverwalk are a short walk away back down S. Main St.

References:  Ipswich, Ma.com

            The Trustees.org - Castle Hill

            Ipswich Museum.org

In My Footsteps: Trip 59: Ipswich, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 59:  Ipswich, Mass.

July 1, 2010

            When I was a child I remembered the name ‘Ipswich’ being on a wooden sign which hung above the duplex where I lived in Yarmouth.  Each of the homes on our side of the street featured the names of North Shore towns such as Swampscott and Essex; of course I did not realize that until I was older.  When I got the chance to I was so excited to get to visit the actual Ipswich and take in what this North Shore town had to offer.

John Whipple House

            Originally called ‘Agawam’ by the local Native Americans Ipswich got its name from the corresponding town in Suffolk, England in 1634.  The first European settlers became farmers, fishermen, and shipbuilders while the Ipswich River provided water power for mills.  At the turn of the 20^th century however it was stockings, made by the Ipswich Hosiery Mills, which became the town’s greatest export.

            The sheer number of historic homes in Ipswich was something I should have expected from a town that traces its heritage back nearly 400 years.  The Rogers and Brown House is one such place that I stopped to see.  Originally built in 1750 this old colonial ‘manse’ is run today as a very beautiful and popular Bed & Breakfast.  The home was built by Dr. Rogers near Ipswich’s South Green, upon his death his wife agreed to sell the house to Dr. Asa Brown to make way for the building of the Old South Church.

Heard House/Ipswich Museum

            The Rogers’ house was moved to its current location.  It was subsequently attached to a slat box home first owned by Nathaniel Rust who was a glover.  Dr. Brown then made several changes to the home which included several fireplaces, a carriage barn, and three staircases.  Today the Bed & Breakfast has all of the modern amenities.

            Another historic home which is even older than the Rogers and Brown Bed & Breakfast is the John Whipple House on South Main Street.  The whole area surrounding this house is filled with other historic homes so it makes for a great walk on a sunny day.  The first thing I noticed about this home was the fact that the year it was built has been changed on the sign.  The year 1677 is in bright paint yet underneath can clearly be seen the year 1655.  I have since discovered that the reason for this change in the established year is due to a dendrochronology test in 2005.  This is the process of tree-ring dating.  This test proved the earliest part of the house was built in 1677.  John Whipple was a British soldier and entrepreneur.  It was restored and has been a museum since 1899.

The Great House at Castle Hill

            Located just across the street from the Whipple House is the Heard House which also doubles as the Ipswich Museum.  This property, along with the Whipple House, is the main cog of the Ipswich Historical Society.  Built in 1800 the house was the dwelling of John Heard who was a prominent merchant in Ipswich.  He dealt all over the world with a large concentration of his dealing being in China and the West Indies.  The descendants of John Heard lived in this large home until it was purchased by the Ipswich Historical Society in 1939.  The museum is open from May through October with it being possible to gain admission to both or only one of the Heard and Whipple houses.

            If historic homes are not your thing there is something with just as much history without all of the walls and furniture.  Appleton Farms is 658 acres of beautiful green fields, trees, and picnic areas, not to mention all of the livestock.  This is America’s oldest continuously operating farm being established in 1636 by Samuel Appleton.  Initially he grew only corn and other vegetables along with hay; later generations of Appletons expanded the crops to include timber, beef, and dairy. 

The incredible rear lawn of the Great House.

            The farm is open sunrise to sunset all year long.  The folks there recommend allowing yourself two hours to fully enjoy the farm and what it has to offer, possibly three hours if you are also partaking in the Appleton Farms Grass Rides.  These are more than five miles of lush green paths which were originally designed for horseback riding.  The five paths, called ‘rides’ after the English term for carriage path, all meet in the center of the land at a place called the ‘Roundpoint.’   Appleton Farms and the adjacent Grass Rides are a great way to spend a day in Ipswich.

            The final stop on my trip to this amazing North Shore town was also the most exquisite.  Castle Hill was a spot well known to the local Native Americans for centuries and became farmland when John Winthrop Jr., son of the first governor of Massachusetts, laid claim to the land in 1637.  It is on the way to Crane Beach, which can be accessed from this property along the walking trails.  I cannot explain the majesty of this area, not only the natural beauty but the amazing architecture of The Great House. 

The Great House sits atop Castle Hill.  It was built in 1928 and includes fifty-nine rooms.  During my trip here there was a summer concert being set up on the lawn behind the Great House.  The lawn was something unexpected entirely as well.  It was not so much anything about the grass, but more of the spaciousness of it.  I can only describe it as a hundred foot wide swath of green which starts at the back of the Great House and slopes down for as far as the eye can see.  I was in awe of the scope of this landscaping marvel.  There are trails which encircle the property and I found out beforehand that much of The Next Karate Kid movie was filmed on the grounds.  I highly recommend taking the time to fully engross yourself in the natural and architectural wonder of Castle Hill.

For me now Ipswich means much more than a wooden sign above a childhood home.  It means numerous historic homes, and rich, lush farms.  Ipswich also means the incredible sights at Castle Hill.  I believe everyone needs to see Appleton Farms and Castle Hill for themselves to truly appreciate them.  It is a worthwhile trip.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Whipple House/Heard House:  From Rt. 1 north take a right at Ipswich Rd., continue onto Topsfield Rd.  Continue onto Market Street, turn right at S. Main Street.  The Heard House in #54 with the Whipple House being directly across the street.

            Appleton Farms:  From Rt. 128 North take Exit 20A.  Take Rt. 1A North.  Travel about 7 mi. north on Rt. 1A and turn left onto Waldingfield Rd.  There is a small parking area at the street corner.

            Castle Hill:  From Rt. 128 North take Exit 20A, take Rt. 1A North for 8 mi. to Ipswich. Turn right onto Rt. 133 East and follow for 1.5 mi. Turn left onto Northgate Rd. and follow for 0.5 mi. Turn right onto Argilla Rd. and follow for 2.3 mi. to entrance.

References:  The Trustees.org - Castle Hill

            The Trustees.org - Appleton Farms

            Ipswich Museum.org

            Rogers and Brown House.com

           

In My Footsteps: Trip 23: Wareham & Onset, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 23: Wareham & Onset, Mass.

February 15, 2010

            Though neither is technically considered a part of Cape Cod, both Wareham and Onset share many of the same qualities of a classic Cape village.  Wareham is considered the ‘Gateway to Cape Cod’ as the first town west of the Cape Cod Canal.  Onset lies just beyond Wareham and is filled with the same sorts of historic buildings and quaint shops that would make you swear you were in Chatham or Wellfleet and not over the bridges.

            Wareham shares its name with a town in England and was originally settled as a part of the surrounding towns of Rochester and Plymouth in 1678.  Incorporated in 1739, the town mixes beautiful beaches and historic buildings with a highly developed retail center filled with stores and restaurants.  Perhaps most well known in Wareham is the Tremont Nail Factory which is the oldest manufacturer of nails in the country, established in 1819.

            If you take Route 6 west into Wareham it does not take long to find a beautiful scenic spot.  A right turn onto Red Brook Road leads you to Buttermilk Bay and the adjoining Little Buttermilk Bay(left).  These bodies of water are great for fishing and the Bourne Bridge hovers above the tree line which gives perspective as to how close spots like these are to major highways.  Route 6 continues west and crosses the Agawam River before hitting the retail center of Wareham.  This river has been one of the most important herring rivers in the state since 1632 and is one of the few remaining operated herring runs left in Massachusetts.

            The Wareham Town Hall(right) is located near the retail center as Route 6 becomes also known as Marion Road.  It stands in front of the middle school and across the street from the Wareham Free Library.  It looks the part of an old government building in amongst the modern retail stores.  There is also a really nice railroad station located behind Main Street and along the Agawam River.  There is still freight rail service in Wareham but at this time no passenger service.  Of course for families coming to visit there must be a stop at Water Wizz, the popular water park located near the Cranberry Shopping Plaza on Rt. 6.

            Much like Cape Cod, Wareham has its share of smaller villages that make up the bigger town.  One such village is Weweantic.  A left turn from Rt. 6 onto Cromesett Rd. will take you out onto this tiny peninsula that sticks out into Buzzards Bay.  Bordered on the east by Marks Cove and on the west by Pattons Cove and Briarwood Beach, Weweantic is a great little detour off of the main road and sports tremendous views from all sides.

            Though considered a small village in Wareham, Onset is seemingly a different world in and of itself.  It was originally developed in the 1880’s as a summer retreat for spiritualists and psychics.  The historic stretch of 19^th Century hotels which overlook Onset Bay were constructed when the spiritualists ran the small seaside village.  These hotels are now beautiful reminders of Onset’s origin as well as popular spots for summer visitors.  The Wickets Inn on Onset Avenue(right), built in 1863, caught my eye as I drove into town as I imagine it does for a lot of people.  The classic Victorian-style building is hard to miss as you pass over the bridge which crosses the waterway connecting Broad Cove to the north with Onset Bay to the south.

Onset Beach is and should be a main attraction for anyone that makes this village a destination.  It has a beautiful view of Wickets Island and Onset Island(below).  The four-acre Wickets Island was used during Prohibition as a place to stash illegal liquor and is currently owned by a developer who plans on building a luxury home on it.  Onset Island is roughly three times the size of Wickets Island and is inhabited by nearly fifty families who have summer homes there.

Onset Avenue, the main road in the village, has the feel of a beachfront paradise.  There are no chain restaurants or busy shopping centers, even on a cold winter’s day it felt like a place where you’d like to relax for a few days or a week to let the salty air cure your ills.  Marc Anthony’s Pizza is a favorite of mine when I visit and should be sampled at least once.     

Another beautiful spot is a little harder to get to if it is to be fully appreciated.  Stony Point Dike is a man made strip of land that stretches out a mile into Buzzards Bay.  It is what was created by the dredging of the Cape Cod Canal.  It is located at the end of Great Neck Road but can be seen on the horizon from Little Harbor Beach.  For kayaking lovers it is a perfect trip, just over a mile, from the beach to Stony Point.  It should be noted that swimming and paddling on the Canal side of Stony Point is prohibited and dangerous.

Wareham and Onset give you all that you could want in a seaside town.  There are beautiful beaches, historic building with fascinating stories, and there are also plenty of shopping areas for those that are not as into nature and history as I am.  These spots are so close to the Cape but can at times be overlooked by people on the way to New Bedford or Providence.  I highly recommend taking a day trip to discover Wareham and perhaps a little longer to enjoy Onset which is a favorite place of mine.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions: Buttermilk Bay: From Rt. 6 heading west, turn right onto Red Brook Rd., continue onto Head of the Bay Rd.  Turn right onto Old Head of the Bay Rd.  This gives you the best view of Little Buttermilk Bay and Buttermilk Bay through Gibbs Narrows.

Onset: From Rt. 6 heading west, turn left onto Onset Ave., continue on for 1.5 miles.  Wickets Inn & Pub are on the right as you cross the bridge.  Onset Beach is on the left as is Onset Pier.  Marc Anthony’s Pizza is on the left at the intersection with South Blvd.

Tremont Nail Company: from Rt. 28 heading west turn left at Mayflower Ridge Dr., then quick right at Elm Street.

Little Harbor Beach: from Rt. 6 heading west, turn left at Depot St., continue on to Great Neck Rd.  Turn right on Stockton Short Cut St., take 2^nd right at Little Harbor Rd.  Follow it to beach.

References: CapeCodTravel.com - Onset

            Marc Anthony's Pizza

            Tremont Nail Company

            Wickets Inn & Pub

            Water Wizz

        

Onset on Dwellable