In My Footsteps: The First Martha's Vineyard Trip

            First let me start by saying, yes I am a lifelong Cape Codder.  My family dates back to Deacon John Doane who helped settle the town of Eastham in 1644.  I am proud of my long history on this peninsula. Now, that being said, I will admit that I had never once been to either island of Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket, until now.

            I had decided that with all of the trips I had taken across New England it was about time that I visit a spot so close by but which seemed so far away.  By ferry Martha’s Vineyard is only a forty-five minute ride, the island is easily visible from the shores of Woods Hole, Falmouth, and Mashpee.

Ocean Park in Oak Bluffs

            The 100-square-mile Vineyard is purported to be named after the daughter of English explorer Bartholomew Gosnold who died in infancy.  He first sailed to the island in 1602.  There is a very long and rich history there and I wanted to make sure that I saw as much of it as I could upon arrival.  The ferry docked at Oak Bluffs and I found my first place to visit stretched out before me along the shore. 

            Ocean Park, situated right along Seaview Avenue, is seven acres of wide open space surrounded by beautiful homes.  Near the center of the park is a bandstand gazebo and it is the site of the annual Fourth of July fireworks in Oak Bluffs.  I enjoyed the man-made pond with a small fountain as it was inhabited by man geese which did not mind posing for pictures.  It would have been easy on a warm early-autumn day to sit back and enjoy more time at Ocean Park but I knew I only had a set number of hours on The Vineyard and needed to keep moving.

            Since bringing a car over on the ferry is a little pricy ($137 Round-Trip for a small car), I decided to rent a bicycle for the day.  Before I went I had chosen Anderson’s Bikes due to its low prices and the fact that they had been around since 1971 with the same family running it.  I was not disappointed with the hybrid street bike from Fuji I rented.  It reminded me of a spin class bike, a great ride.  Since it was technically my first time on the island I let the woman there give me her

East Chop Light

whole speech about what to see around the area.  I even got a map just like a real tourist.

            Once equipped with a bike I used the gps on my phone to set out to my next destination.  As many of you know I am a huge fan of lighthouses, love them, so it was only natural that my first trip to Martha’s Vineyard would include as many lighthouses as time would allow.  First up was East Chop Lighthouse.

            Located on East Chop Drive in Oak Bluffs the lighthouse was not difficult to find.  The ride out to it was spectacular as being on a bike made it possible to really soak in the atmosphere of the small island town.  East Chop Light sits inside a picket fence on a small plot of land overlooking the ocean, passing ferries and Cape Cod in the distance.  It was deserted when I arrived and it allowed me the chance to take many photos and also simply enjoy laying eyes on this landmark for the first time.  The current East Chop Light is the third built on the site with the original being built in 1869. The current tower was erected in 1878.  The view is amazing and worth spending some time there.

            Of course I had to follow up East Chop Light with the corresponding West Chop Light over in Vineyard Haven.  The ride there was just as much fun as the lighthouse itself.  The route leads you down along Vineyard Haven Harbor.  This is the port where the ferries come in year-round, the port in Oak Bluffs is only seasonal.  There are many beautiful little side roads along the shore, some of which I saw up close when I could not hear my gps and became temporarily lost.

            There are a

West Chop Light

few differences between East and West Chop Light, the main one being that West Chop is on Coast Guard property and thus not able to be seen too closely.  The original West Chop Light was built in 1817, and the current tower, like East Chop, is the third built on the site. The current lighthouse was erected in 1891.  Despite being fifty-feet behind a picket fence it is still worth the ride to see this lighthouse, the ride out itself is just as good as I mentioned.    

            After seeing East and West Chop I decided the only way to continue on The Vineyard was to hop on the Edgartown-Vineyard Haven Road bike trail and ride down to see Edgartown Lighthouse on the harbor.  When traveling on a bicycle you notice how hilly The Vineyard is away from the shore, it was a bit of a chore but great exercise getting down to Edgartown. 

            Many spots in Edgartown were featured in the movie Jaws and the entire town is beautiful with a special feel to it as soon as you arrive.  One particular spot

Old Whaling Church, Main St. Edgartown

that captures that feel is the ground of the Vincent House Museum.  The house itself is the oldest residence on the island, built in 1672.  The house is believed to have been built by William Vincent who was one of the early settlers of Edgartown’s Great Harbor area.  The Martha’s Vineyard Historical Preservation Society gained the house in 1977 and moved it from Great Pond in Edgartown to its current location.  It shares the ground with a pair of other historical sites that add to the special feel of this area.

            The Old Whaling Church was designed by Frederick Baylies and built by whaling captains in 1843.  It is an impressive site towering above Main Street with its beautiful columns. It has now been transformed into a performing arts center and is very popular for weddings.  The church coupled with the narrow street, quaint homes, and white picket fences made me want to simply sit on a bench and watch the world go by.  It seems like much of Martha’s Vineyard has that same sort of feel to it.   

            Not far from this stretch of historical sites is Edgartown Lighthouse.  By the time I had gotten to this point my legs were very tired but there was no way I wasn’t going to walk out to where the lighthouse was on the water.  It is within sight of Chappaquiddick with the ferries making the very short trip back and forth.  Ironically the original Edgartown Lighthouse was destroyed in the Hurricane of 1938 and when it came time for it to be replaced it was Rear Range Lighthouse from Ipswich, Massachusetts that was loaded on a barge and brought down to the harbor entrance

Edgartown Light

.  That fact made the experience even more special and unique. 

Though the amazing Harbor View Hotel is nearby it felt as though Edgartown Lighthouse was in its own world; the lapping ocean waves drown out all sounds but for a few stray boat horns.  I sat on the steps of the lighthouse to enjoy the atmosphere for a while.  My first trip to Martha’s Vineyard had been a huge success and would not be my last for sure.

My ride back to Oak Bluffs took place along the Edgartown-Oak Bluffs Road bike path.  Much of this ride gives you spectacular views of the surrounding water along the Joseph Sylvia State Beach.  It was a fantastic end to a trip that was a long time coming.  I passed by Ocean Park near sunset, coming full circle from where I had begun my day.  Now I can say yes I have been to Martha’s Vineyard, and plan on going back as soon as I possibly can.  I am sure I don’t have to suggest that all of you do the same.  Have fun and happy traveling!

My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, Barnes&Noble.com, and Amazon.com, soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions: East Chop Lighthouse:  From the ferry port go straight on Lake Avenue, take the 1^st right onto East Chop Drive, follow it 1.1 miles to lighthouse on the right.

                    West Chop Lighthouse:  From the ferry go straight on Lake Avenue, continue onto New York Avenue, follow it for a mile, take a slight left onto Temahigan Avenue, follow it .3 miles, take a slight right onto Eastville Avenue.  Continue straight onto Beach Road, follow it 1.4 miles, turn right onto Main Street, follow it 2 miles to lighthouse on right.

                    Edgartown Lighthouse:  From the ferry go left onto Seaview Avenue, follow it 1.1 miles, continue onto Beach Road, follow it 2.8 miles, keep right to stay on Beach Road, follow 1.1 more miles.  Continue onto Upper Main Street, continue onto Main Street, follow this .3 miles, turn right onto N Water Street, follow .4 miles, lighthouse is on right.

References:  Steamship Authority

            Anderson's Bike Rentals

            Martha's Vineyard Chamber of Commerce

Oak Bluffs on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 111: Ipswich, Mass. - Trip 2

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 111:  Ipswich, Massachusetts

March 9, 2011

            Yet another amazing jewel of the North Shore of Massachusetts the town of Ipswich is bursting at the seams with history.  This was not my first time visiting Ipswich though I will admit that my first trip and article were subpar for me.  I did not get the chance to see a lot of what I wanted to due to time constraints.  This time I made certain that all of the sites of Ipswich passed before my eyes and were captured by my camera.

John Whipple House c. 1677

            Originally called ‘Agawam’ by the local Native Americans Ipswich got its name from the corresponding town in Suffolk, England in 1634.  The first European settlers became farmers, fishermen, and shipbuilders while the Ipswich River provided water power for mills.  At the turn of the 20^th century however it was stockings, made by the Ipswich Hosiery Mills, which became the town’s greatest export.

            The sheer number of historic homes in Ipswich is mind boggling, though it shouldn’t have surprised me that much since the town has nearly 400 years of history.  Rather than try to shoot all of these homes as I tend to try in other towns I chose to concentrate solely on the 17^th century homes which are so rare to still be standing.  I photographed nine homes built before 1700 in Ipswich, there might be more I am not sure but that is an unbelievable amount of houses from that era.  Each home has the date it was built as well as the original occupant.  I don’t believe that any of them had historical significance, I suppose just the fact that they still stand is significant enough.

Choate Bridge

            One of the 17^th century homes that has historic significance is the John Whipple House on South Main Street.  The first thing I noticed about this home was the fact that the year it was built has been changed on the sign.  The year 1677 is in bright paint yet underneath can clearly be seen the year 1655.  I have since discovered that the reason for this change in the established year is due to a dendrochronology test in 2005.  This is the process of tree-ring dating.  This test proved the earliest part of the house was built in 1677.  John Whipple was a British soldier and entrepreneur.  It was restored and has been a museum since 1899.

            The last time I visited Ipswich I missed out on a few awesome places located a short walk from the Whipple House.  This time I was able to check them out and it was so rewarding.  One spot is the Choate Bridge which crosses over the Ipswich River.  The bridge is the oldest surviving double arch bridge in the United States having been erected in 1764.  The ‘Choate’ name comes from Col. John Choate, local treasurer who supervised the construction and was also the first person to cross over the completed bridge, by horse.  There is a great view of the river from the bridge but the best view comes from taking a tour on the Ipswich Historic Riverwalk.

Part of the mural along the Ipswich Riverwalk.

            The Riverwalk was recently completed in 2005 with a twelve-foot wide bridge crossing over the Ipswich River just below the old hosiery mill dam.  The water rushes underneath you and is mesmerizing.  Once you get across to the other side there is a stunning mural painted along the side of the EBSCO Publishing parking deck building.  The mural basically shows the history of Ipswich as well as America from the beginning up to now.  I say up to now because in the final section of the mural there is a modern cookout going on with one of the people wearing a Tom Brady jersey.

The Inn at Castle Hill

            Once again I ended my time in Ipswich with one of my favorite places I have been to thus far: Castle Hill.  It was a spot well known to the local Native Americans for centuries and became farmland when John Winthrop Jr., son of the first governor of Massachusetts, laid claim to the land in 1637.  It is on the way to Crane Beach, which can be accessed from this property along the walking trails.  I cannot explain the majesty of this area, not only the natural beauty but the amazing architecture of The Great House. 

The Great House sits atop the actual Castle Hill.  It was built in 1928 and includes fifty-nine rooms.  There are concerts on the property during the summer but even visiting now at the end of winter it was a great time.  The lawn is at the rear of the property is incredible.  It was not so much anything about the grass, but more of the spaciousness of it.  I can only describe it as a hundred foot wide swath of green which starts at the back of the Great House and slopes down for as far as the eye can see.  I was in awe of the scope of this landscaping marvel.  There are trails which encircle the property and I found out beforehand that much of The Next Karate Kid and The Witches of Eastwick were filmed on the grounds. 

The enormous rear lawn at Castle Hill.

A lot of the garden areas along the sides of the mansion are in disarray and inaccessible but I was able to see enough to imagine what it must have looked like when it was brand new.  Even on a raw and windy day I took my time and enjoyed the sights until my hands were too numb to shoot anymore photos.  I highly recommend taking the time to fully engross yourself in the natural and architectural wonder of Castle Hill.

Whether strolling the grounds at Castle Hill, crossing the Ipswich River on the Riverwalk, or simply going on the hunt for 17^th century homes the beautiful North Shore town of Ipswich is something to behold.  I am so glad I went back and visited the right way, that’s the only real way to do it!  Have fun and happy traveling!

For a video showcasing Castle Hill check out YouTube.com - Castle Hill.

For more In My Footsteps items follow my Twitter Feed, view more photos at the In My Footsteps fan page on Facebook, or visit my homepage at ChristopherSetterlund.com.   Thanks for reading!

Directions:  Castle Hill:  From Rt. 128 North take Exit 20A, take Rt. 1A North for 8 mi. to Ipswich. Turn right onto Rt. 133 East and follow for 1.5 mi. Turn left onto Northgate Rd. and follow for 0.5 mi. Turn right onto Argilla Rd. and follow for 2.3 mi. to entrance.

            Whipple House:  From Rt. 1 north take a right at Ipswich Rd., continue onto Topsfield Rd.  Continue onto Market Street, turn right at S. Main Street.  Turn sharply right at S. Village Green where Whipple House is.  Choate Bridge and Ipswich Riverwalk are a short walk away back down S. Main St.

References:  Ipswich, Ma.com

            The Trustees.org - Castle Hill

            Ipswich Museum.org

In My Footsteps: Trip 107: Newbury, Massachusetts

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 107:  Newbury, Massachusetts

January 9, 2011

            Newbury should be included in any travels up to the North Shore.  I separated it from Newburyport and Plum Island of my last article so as to make sure that it got its just due.  The village of Plum Island as well as the villages of Old Town, known as Newbury Center, and Byfield are included when one speaks of Newbury.  Newburyport is its own separate town.  The first settlers of Newbury came from the town of Wiltshire, England and landed first in modern-day Ipswich, then known as Agawam, before stopping where Newbury currently stands.

Coffin House

            The history in Newbury extends nearly all the way back to the first settlers.  That was apparent with the first place I visited, the Coffin House built in 1678.  Located on High Road the house was originally purported to have been built in 1654 by descendant Joshua Coffin who wrote the history of Newbury in 1845.  Modern science has come up with a more accurate date.  It is set back a bit from the road brown with a blood-red door.  Walking up to it proved a bit tough as the snow surrounding the house was deep.

            The house has more than doubled in size since 1712 as pieces were added to accommodate a growing family allowing them all to live under the same roof.  The Coffin House was divided into two separate dwellings by two of the Coffin brothers in 1785.  There are rooms in the home depicting life in the 17^th, 18^th, and 19^th centuries.  It is open to the public on the first and third Saturdays from June through mid-October.

Swett-Ilsley House

            Only a stone’s throw away from the Coffin House on High Road is the Swett-Ilsley House.  Though it does not look the part it is actually older than the Coffin House having been built in 1670.  The reason that this house appears to be more modern is the fact that the original home was only one room and it has been expanded many times with its appearance now of  20^th century duplex.

            This property was the first to be bought by the Historic New England group in 1911.  When purchased some of the modern building layers were carefully removed to expose as much of the original parts of the house as possible.  The Swett-Ilsley House can also lay claim to one of the largest fireplaces in New England at an impressive ten feet wide.  Imagine what you could fit in there?

            In keeping with the theme of 17th-century homes there is also the Noyes-Hale House on Parker Street.  This home was built in 1646 by Rev. James Noyes, cousin to Rev. Thomas Parker.  Parker was the first pastor in Newbury after initially landing in Ipswich.  As interesting as the historic homes of Newbury were there were a few other items that made this trip stand out.

Milestone 33 in front of Gov. Dummer Mansion

            Located all over Newbury are a series of Milestones, stone mile markers.  Though there are many stones located all over the region there seems to be a cluster of them in Newbury.  The stones were made famous by Benjamin Franklin in the 1760s as he wanted mile markers at every mile on post roads in Philadelphia and then extending up the coast from New York City into New England.   Milestones however had been around since the beginning on the 1700’s with many in Newbury having been carved by John Dummer who was the grandson of the first settler in Newbury.

            Finding all of the stones can be an adventure that would talk all day, I chose a few and was only able to find one located on Middle Road.  Known as Milestone 33 this stone ironically was carved by John Hartshorn, not John Dummer.  The text on the stone is deciphered as ‘N5’ meaning five miles north to the center of Newbury, ‘B33’ meaning thirty-three miles to the center of Boston.  The year of the stone, 1708, is featured near the bottom, unfortunately despite wiping the stone with a towel the snow made it tougher to see all of the carvings clearly.  Still, it was a really cool piece of history sitting rather unsuspecting at the edge of the road at a quiet intersection.

The Witch's Stone

            The only thing neater than Milestone 33 was getting a chance to lay my eyes and hands on something that seems very much out of place in Newbury and the United States as a whole.  ‘The Witch’s Stone’ sits out on rural Coleman Road and is one part awe-inspiring and one part creepy.  It is said to have been carved in 1723; visiting the stone as the sun began to sink in the sky only added to the mood around the stone as it was bathed in an orange glow.  The ‘witch’ the stone is named for looks like something that should be on an ancient cave wall rather than on the North Shore in New England.

            Finding information about the origin, history, and carver of the Witch’s Stone has proven to be very difficult.  All I can say is that it is an impressive sight even if it does look like something that was torn from a cave wall and placed in the middle of an old stone wall in Newbury.  Not knowing why the stone is there or where the inspiration came from should not ruin the experience of seeing it.  Historic homes make up a lot of what is unique about Newbury but the Milestones and the Witch’s Stone make for an amazing historic scavenger hunt that not many other towns can offer.  Have fun and happy traveling!

            My first book, In My Footsteps: A Cape Cod Travel Guide, is now available at SchifferBooks.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and Amazon.com, and soon to be in stores everywhere!  Follow me on Twitter!

Directions:  Coffin House:  From I-95 North take exit 57, turn right for Rt. 113.  Continue onto Rt. 1A/High St., drive a total of 3.5 miles off highway, Coffin House is on right.

            Milestone 33:  From I-95 North take exit 55 for Central St., continue onto School St., slight left at Elm St.  Follow 1.2 miles, turn left at Middle Rd.  Follow to intersection with Elm St.  Milestone is on the corner of intersection on lawn of Gov. Dummer Mansion.

            Witch’s Stone:  From I-95 North take exit 55 for Central St., continue onto School St., slight left at Elm St.  Turn right at Coleman Rd., the Witch’s Stone is on left .1 miles up.

References:  Historic New England - Coffin House     

            Historical Society of Old Newbury

            Town of Newbury.org
            Stone Structures.org - Milestones

Newbury on Dwellable

In My Footsteps: Trip 59: Ipswich, Mass.

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 59:  Ipswich, Mass.

July 1, 2010

            When I was a child I remembered the name ‘Ipswich’ being on a wooden sign which hung above the duplex where I lived in Yarmouth.  Each of the homes on our side of the street featured the names of North Shore towns such as Swampscott and Essex; of course I did not realize that until I was older.  When I got the chance to I was so excited to get to visit the actual Ipswich and take in what this North Shore town had to offer.

John Whipple House

            Originally called ‘Agawam’ by the local Native Americans Ipswich got its name from the corresponding town in Suffolk, England in 1634.  The first European settlers became farmers, fishermen, and shipbuilders while the Ipswich River provided water power for mills.  At the turn of the 20^th century however it was stockings, made by the Ipswich Hosiery Mills, which became the town’s greatest export.

            The sheer number of historic homes in Ipswich was something I should have expected from a town that traces its heritage back nearly 400 years.  The Rogers and Brown House is one such place that I stopped to see.  Originally built in 1750 this old colonial ‘manse’ is run today as a very beautiful and popular Bed & Breakfast.  The home was built by Dr. Rogers near Ipswich’s South Green, upon his death his wife agreed to sell the house to Dr. Asa Brown to make way for the building of the Old South Church.

Heard House/Ipswich Museum

            The Rogers’ house was moved to its current location.  It was subsequently attached to a slat box home first owned by Nathaniel Rust who was a glover.  Dr. Brown then made several changes to the home which included several fireplaces, a carriage barn, and three staircases.  Today the Bed & Breakfast has all of the modern amenities.

            Another historic home which is even older than the Rogers and Brown Bed & Breakfast is the John Whipple House on South Main Street.  The whole area surrounding this house is filled with other historic homes so it makes for a great walk on a sunny day.  The first thing I noticed about this home was the fact that the year it was built has been changed on the sign.  The year 1677 is in bright paint yet underneath can clearly be seen the year 1655.  I have since discovered that the reason for this change in the established year is due to a dendrochronology test in 2005.  This is the process of tree-ring dating.  This test proved the earliest part of the house was built in 1677.  John Whipple was a British soldier and entrepreneur.  It was restored and has been a museum since 1899.

The Great House at Castle Hill

            Located just across the street from the Whipple House is the Heard House which also doubles as the Ipswich Museum.  This property, along with the Whipple House, is the main cog of the Ipswich Historical Society.  Built in 1800 the house was the dwelling of John Heard who was a prominent merchant in Ipswich.  He dealt all over the world with a large concentration of his dealing being in China and the West Indies.  The descendants of John Heard lived in this large home until it was purchased by the Ipswich Historical Society in 1939.  The museum is open from May through October with it being possible to gain admission to both or only one of the Heard and Whipple houses.

            If historic homes are not your thing there is something with just as much history without all of the walls and furniture.  Appleton Farms is 658 acres of beautiful green fields, trees, and picnic areas, not to mention all of the livestock.  This is America’s oldest continuously operating farm being established in 1636 by Samuel Appleton.  Initially he grew only corn and other vegetables along with hay; later generations of Appletons expanded the crops to include timber, beef, and dairy. 

The incredible rear lawn of the Great House.

            The farm is open sunrise to sunset all year long.  The folks there recommend allowing yourself two hours to fully enjoy the farm and what it has to offer, possibly three hours if you are also partaking in the Appleton Farms Grass Rides.  These are more than five miles of lush green paths which were originally designed for horseback riding.  The five paths, called ‘rides’ after the English term for carriage path, all meet in the center of the land at a place called the ‘Roundpoint.’   Appleton Farms and the adjacent Grass Rides are a great way to spend a day in Ipswich.

            The final stop on my trip to this amazing North Shore town was also the most exquisite.  Castle Hill was a spot well known to the local Native Americans for centuries and became farmland when John Winthrop Jr., son of the first governor of Massachusetts, laid claim to the land in 1637.  It is on the way to Crane Beach, which can be accessed from this property along the walking trails.  I cannot explain the majesty of this area, not only the natural beauty but the amazing architecture of The Great House. 

The Great House sits atop Castle Hill.  It was built in 1928 and includes fifty-nine rooms.  During my trip here there was a summer concert being set up on the lawn behind the Great House.  The lawn was something unexpected entirely as well.  It was not so much anything about the grass, but more of the spaciousness of it.  I can only describe it as a hundred foot wide swath of green which starts at the back of the Great House and slopes down for as far as the eye can see.  I was in awe of the scope of this landscaping marvel.  There are trails which encircle the property and I found out beforehand that much of The Next Karate Kid movie was filmed on the grounds.  I highly recommend taking the time to fully engross yourself in the natural and architectural wonder of Castle Hill.

For me now Ipswich means much more than a wooden sign above a childhood home.  It means numerous historic homes, and rich, lush farms.  Ipswich also means the incredible sights at Castle Hill.  I believe everyone needs to see Appleton Farms and Castle Hill for themselves to truly appreciate them.  It is a worthwhile trip.  Have fun and happy traveling!

Directions:  Whipple House/Heard House:  From Rt. 1 north take a right at Ipswich Rd., continue onto Topsfield Rd.  Continue onto Market Street, turn right at S. Main Street.  The Heard House in #54 with the Whipple House being directly across the street.

            Appleton Farms:  From Rt. 128 North take Exit 20A.  Take Rt. 1A North.  Travel about 7 mi. north on Rt. 1A and turn left onto Waldingfield Rd.  There is a small parking area at the street corner.

            Castle Hill:  From Rt. 128 North take Exit 20A, take Rt. 1A North for 8 mi. to Ipswich. Turn right onto Rt. 133 East and follow for 1.5 mi. Turn left onto Northgate Rd. and follow for 0.5 mi. Turn right onto Argilla Rd. and follow for 2.3 mi. to entrance.

References:  The Trustees.org - Castle Hill

            The Trustees.org - Appleton Farms

            Ipswich Museum.org

            Rogers and Brown House.com