In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - Edna Harris Cape Cod Business Pioneer

    The story of Edna Harris is one of ingenuity, success, and determination. In a time when women as business owners was rare Harris found herself in that position multiple times. She was connected to some of the most beloved establishments in Cape Cod history. It was during the first half of the 20^th century that Edna Harris became a Cape Cod icon and business icon alike. This is her story.

    Edna Lincoln Sprague was born in Watertown, Massachusetts on August 4, 1877. She married William Harris in Taunton in June 1900. The couple would have four children, three of whom had been born when the couple made their way to Cape Cod in 1912.

    Edna’s first foray into business on Cape Cod came in the form of the Megansett Tea Room in North Falmouth. The opening day was June 21, 1913 and it was the subject of rave reviews from the get-go. From the beautifully decorated interior to the comfortable chairs on an attractive piazza this new establishment was primed for success. Like many Cape businesses the Megansett Tea Room was seasonal, closing in October to allow the Harris’ to head back home to Watertown for the winter.

Megansett Tea Room(Falmouth Public Library)

    Not one to rest on her laurels Edna made constant tweaks and improvements to her tea room in the hopes of increasing business. It was this desire to stay ahead of the curve that would serve her well in her Cape business career. Some new features eventually included a dance room decked out in yellow and black complete with an orchestra run by Sidney Reinherz in 1920. There was also a gift shop added. The new features worked and an addition was built on the Megansett Tea Room in 1923 out of necessity. Edna Harris was an undeniable success and soon others wanted a piece of the action.

    In 1930 the Crane family asked Edna to take over the lease of their Coonamessett Inn. At this time Coonamessett consisted of a large ranch house overlooking the pond of the same name. Under Harris it became an icon of Cape Cod. In the beginning she tried to run both Coonamessett and her beloved Megansett Tea Room. This proved to be impossible and Edna gave up Megansett in 1934, the property taken over by the Watertown Bank. After sitting vacant and deteriorating for several years the venerable establishment was eventually torn down.

The original Coonamessett Inn(Falmouth Public Library)

    At the Coonamessett Inn however Edna’s success boiled over. Being in close proximity to the Falmouth Playhouse brought internationally known performers in. This was closely followed by high ranking politicians like Massachusetts Governor James Michael Curley and people from the financial world. These people all raved about the food and accommodations at the Coonamessett, but more so than that they raved about Edna Harris. World War II saw military officials frequenting the Coonamessett as Camp Edwards was close by. This massive success achieved by Harris in the early to mid 1940’s gave her the confidence to make yet another big move in Cape Cod business.

    In March 1947 Harris took over the lease of another up and coming Cape establishment, the Popponesset Inn. Opened in 1941 Popponesset at the time had 26 small family cottages, hotel, restaurant and cocktail lounge. Being wary of what happened when she tried running both the Coonamessett and Megansett Tea Room at the same time Edna placed her eldest daughter Hilda Coppage in charge as manager.

    Great food, décor, and entertainment at Coonamessett made Edna Harris a household name on Cape Cod and far beyond. Now she was adding that touch to the Popponesset. These facts made it more surprising when in August 1953 the Crane family alerted Edna that her lease at Coonamessett was not being renewed. The property was sold to Richard Treadway, owner of a string of Treadway Inns. By this time Harris was 75 and could have easily gone sweetly into retirement. However she was determined to not be pushed out of a place she made into a giant of Cape Cod hospitality.

    In a stroke of genius Edna Harris secured financial backing and purchased the Robert Longyear house at Gifford Street and Jones Road in Falmouth in September 1953. After it was approved to be run as an inn Edna had the Coonamessett liquor license, of which she was in ownership of, transferred to the new property. In a beautiful irony since the original Coonamessett property was to be renamed Treadway Inn this meant that the Coonamessett name was available to be incorporated by Edna Harris. The final twist came when she also took much of the furniture from the old property and brought it to the new location.

    On November 24, 1953 Edna Harris’ Coonamessett Inn reopened in the new location a mere three months after she had been told her lease would not be renewed. It was a massive triumph for Harris who kept all of what made her Coonamessett special despite moving to a new location. In a bit of karma the Treadway Inn which took over the property at Coonamessett Pond failed and became Clauson’s Inn at Coonamessett in early 1958.

    Edna Harris continued successfully running her new Coonamessett Inn well into her 80’s. Her daughter Hilda Coppage carved out her own legacy at Popponesset with guests marveling at her rapid-fire wit. She was seen as Cape Cod’s answer to comedian Shelley Berman. The mother-daughter combo dominated the Upper Cape for nearly a decade.

    After a short illness Edna passed away on January 6, 1967 at the age of 89. She had been working hard at Coonamessett until her body literally could not give any more. Her daughter Hilda Coppage ran the Coonamessett for a few more years before selling it in 1969 to Josiah K. Lilly.

    Edna Harris was beloved and admired. Her legacy followed her even after she left this world. In a time where woman were seen as merely a Mrs. to their husband, rarely having their actual names mentioned in the newspaper, Edna Harris broke through and left an indelible mark on Cape Cod and beyond. She was a pioneer for women in positions of power in business and a true icon of Cape Cod hospitality.

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Previous Blog Posts:

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - The Dome Restaurant, Woods Hole

In Their Footsteps: Cape Cod History - The Lincoln Lodge, Harwich

Be sure to check out my website: Christopher Setterlund.com

Zazzle Store: Cape Cod Living

In My Footsteps: Trip 16: Cape Cod's West Coast

In My Footsteps

Christopher Setterlund

Trip 16: Cape Cod’s West Coast

January 31, 2010

            Cape Cod’s east coast has the National Seashore.  The northern coast has Sandy Neck Beach.  The southern coast has got Craigville and West Dennis Beach.  These places are all well known popular destinations, but there is another coastline that can at times be overlooked.  The west coast of Cape Cod, stretching from Woods Hole up to the Cape Cod Canal, is filled with quaint little villages and sandy beaches.  The easiest way to make the trip along the west coast of the Cape is via Route 28-A which parallels the much busier Route 28.  Rt. 28 in this area doubles as another leg of the highway so a drive along the more rural 28-A is recommended for sightseers. 

            My trip began where my very first trip ended: Woods Hole.  Whether taking Rt. 28 west or south it is suggested that you take the turn onto Rt. 28-A at its southern most point and travel north until you reach the Canal.  The first of the small villages that you pass through is Sippewissett.  The sights in this village just to the north of Woods Hole include two spectacular marshes, The Little and Great Sippewissett Marshes, and the Sippewissett Campgrounds & Cabins.  The campground is located on Palmer Ave. and is opened to families from May through September but they do not allow dogs.

After passing through the Sippewissett area you find the first of the west coast beaches; it is a small spot just before the West Falmouth Historic District.  Chapaquoit Beach(above) located on the road of the same name is tucked away from the main roads and is small.  There is a good view of the Cleveland Ledge Light Station.  The last lighthouse built in New England, the Cleveland Ledge Light was named for former President Grover Cleveland who fished the waters of Buzzards Bay.  The lighthouse sits two miles off shore on a fifty-two foot tall concrete pillar and is maintained by the Coast Guard.  It is best viewed from shore and can not be climbed.

            Not far from Chapaquoit Beach sits Old Silver Beach, probably the best known spot on the west coast of the Cape.  Located on Quaker Rd. in North Falmouth, Old Silver Beach is well known to locals who fill the parking lot daily during the summer.  The salt marsh empties into the bay(right) and there are amazing views of the marsh on the right and Buzzards Bay on the left as well as the Cleveland Ledge Light off in the distance.  A five minute drive north of Old Silver Beach leads you to a beautifully secluded harbor in the tiny village of Megansett.  It has a great view of the private Scraggy Neck Island and a small beach with calm water.

            The west coast of Cape Cod is not all about beaches though.  Located near Red Brook Harbor in another tiny village named Cataumet is one of a few parcels and land set aside for conservation.  This particular set of trails leads you either west toward a great location overlooking Red Brook Harbor, or east as I went.  This route leads you to the railroad tracks and the Cataumet Train Station.  The original building was opened in 1890, but burned in 1925 and was subsequently replaced by the structure standing today.  It is a fascinating piece of history, giving you the feel of old railway life.  There is even a rusty metal pole near the station presumably used to hang mail during the old days of the Railway Mail Service which lasted through the 1960’s.

            Less than fifteen minutes away from Red Brook Harbor sits the historic Wings Neck Lighthouse(right).  Positioned literally inches from the water on Wings Neck Island in Pocasset, the lighthouse is now part of a private home available for vacation rentals.  The current lighthouse was built in 1889 and was very important during the time before and right after the construction of the Cape Cod Canal as it sits at the tip of Wings Neck which sticks a mile and a half out into Buzzards Bay.  It is a private residence and can not be seen up close unless you are a resident, but it can be seen quite well from the gated opening on the edge of the property.

            A short drive further north in Pocasset takes you to the Little Bay conservation area.  This spot, crossed by the railroad tracks, offers a great view of Tobey Island which is a small land mass located just north in Monument Beach.  The Little Bay trails bring you out onto one of two small peninsulas that stretch out into Wings Cove.  These trails also include Monks Park just to the south as well.  Monument Beach is the next tiny village along the west coast and includes the wooden bridge road that leads onto Tobey Island.  This is another private area but the harbor at Monument Beach has a great view of both Tobey Island and Mashnee Island.  Heading up Shore Road in Monument Beach takes you into the center of the village where there is the former train station of the village(above).  It is now closed and up for rent but still houses the same old-time railway charm with the overhangs along the tracks.

            Just before reaching the railroad bridge at the Canal there is one last very worthwhile detour to take.  It is Mashnee Island, located nearly a mile out into Buzzards Bay along Mashnee Rd.  There is a breathtaking view of Mass Maritime, the railroad bridge, and the Bourne Bridge all along the horizon.  The best place to view this is at the very popular Mashnee Island Grill & Beach Bar.  From this point you can see a lot of the area just traveled; it is a fitting end to a beautiful drive.  These tiny villages are not the only spots to hit up along Cape Cod’s west coast.  There are plenty more, you just have to take you time and look for them.  Have fun, and happy traveling!

Directions: Route 28-A: From Rt. 28 head west into Falmouth.  Turn left onto Rt. 28-A which is located 1.5 miles north of Falmouth Hospital.

Old Silver Beach: From Rt. 28-A head north 1.5 miles, turn left onto Old Dock Rd., quick right onto Nashawena St.  Continue onto Quaker Rd., follow it to beach on left.

Red Brook Trails: From Rt. 28-A head north 6 miles, turn left onto County Rd.  Take the 3^rd left onto Scraggy Neck Rd., turn right at Red Brook Harbor Rd.  The trails are about 600 feet up on the right, the parking area is dirt.

Little Bay Conservation Area: From Rt. 28-A follow into Pocasset.  Turn left onto Long Hill Rd., take 2^nd right onto County Rd., turn left at Valley Bars Rd. which becomes Valley Bars Circle.  Follow to parking lot, there is a railroad overpass.

Mashnee Island: From Rt. 28-A get onto Rt. 28 north at rotary.  Follow to Bourne Rotary and take Trowbridge Rd. exit.  Continue onto Shore Rd. and then onto Monument Neck Rd.  Turn right at Presidents Rd., take 1^st left to stay on this road.  Turn left at Mashnee Rd. and follow it out to island.  

References:  Wings Neck Lighthouse

            Sippewissett Campground & Cabins

            Cleveland Ledge Light Station

           

Cataumet on Dwellable